Sharpening knifes

Clive H said:

Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, which is
the best to use?

What are "knifes"?

Frank Gilliland said:

On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" <[email hidden]>
wrote in <[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones,
which is the best to use?

Whichever one sharpens your knife.

Yes, but which one sharpens the best?

Quoted message said:

Why is this crossposted to so many groups?

Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes!

On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" <[email hidden]>
wrote in <[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, which is
the best to use?

Whichever one sharpens your knife.

Why is this crossposted to so many groups?

On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:50:33 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" <[email hidden]>
wrote in <[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Frank Gilliland said:

On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" <[email hidden]>
wrote in <[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones,
which is the best to use?

Whichever one sharpens your knife.

Yes, but which one sharpens the best?

Well, unless the knife is too soft to hold an edge, I can sharpen most
any knife with a standard kitchen combination stone (medium on one
side, fine on the other). If I want it razor sharp, a few swipes on a
leather belt works good, just like at the barber shop. I don't see a
need for diamond in a sharpening stone since most stones are made of
alumina, which is already harder than any steel, titanium, or other
knife material. Diamond is just overpriced overkill, IMO.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Why is this crossposted to so many groups?

Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes!

Fair enough.

Frank Gilliland <wïrenut@NOSPAMïcehouse.net> Thou bowlegged fell
serpent. Thou bewildered pilchard. Ye reprimanded:

Quoted message said:

I don't see a
need for diamond in a sharpening stone since most stones are made of
alumina, which is already harder than any steel, titanium, or other
knife material. Diamond is just overpriced overk<[censored]>

Not if you need to sharpen an alumina knife.

HTH

--
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"We are arrant knaves all, believe none of us."
Hamlet, Act 3, Scene 1 [129]

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On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 16:13:39 +0545, "Kadaitcha Man"
<[email hidden]> wrote in
<[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Frank Gilliland <wïrenut@NOSPAMïcehouse.net> Thou bowlegged fell
serpent. Thou bewildered pilchard. Ye reprimanded:

Quoted message said:

I don't see a
need for diamond in a sharpening stone since most stones are made of
alumina, which is already harder than any steel, titanium, or other
knife material. Diamond is just overpriced overk<[censored]>

Not if you need to sharpen an alumina knife.

HTH

Yes, an alumina stone would even sharpen an alumina knife, just like
diamond dust is used to cut and polish diamond gemstones. But I have
yet to run across any diamond or alumina knives at my local hardware
store. Even if I did, I would be wary because the alumina or diamond
would likely just be some dust embedded in a softer metal. It doesn't
make the blade any stronger or sharper, but gives it an -abrasive-
property that will scratch glass. That's how the little wheels in
glass cutters are made.

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]
says...

Quoted message said:

Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, which is
the best to use?

They both work just fine, assuming that you have chosen the proper stone
and know how to use it.

The skill of the sharpener is more important.

--
Peter Aitken

Clive H said:

Frank Gilliland said:

On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" <[email hidden]>
wrote in <[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones,
which is the best to use?

Whichever one sharpens your knife.

Yes, but which one sharpens the best?

Quoted message said:

Why is this crossposted to so many groups?

Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes!

No they are not. The only relevant group to post this would be uk.diy A
group dedicated to diy projects just like the one you asked.
Sharpening knives has nothing to do with the groups you have cross
posted to.

HTH

Dave

Dave said:

Clive H said:

Frank Gilliland said:

On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" <[email hidden]>
wrote in <[email hidden]>:

> Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones,
> which is the best to use?

Whichever one sharpens your knife.

Yes, but which one sharpens the best?

Quoted message said:

Why is this crossposted to so many groups?

Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes!

No they are not. The only relevant group to post this would be uk.diy A
group dedicated to diy projects just like the one you asked.
Sharpening knives has nothing to do with the groups you have cross
posted to.

Though they all need sharp knives...

I forgot to add. Try a google for 'sharpening knives' You will come up
with lots of help.

Dave

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 10:15:10 -0700, in alt.usenet.kooks, Frank

Gilliland wïrenut@NOSPAMïcehouse.net said:

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 16:13:39 +0545, "Kadaitcha Man"
<[email hidden]> wrote in
<[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Frank Gilliland <wïrenut@NOSPAMïcehouse.net> Thou bowlegged fell
serpent. Thou bewildered pilchard. Ye reprimanded:

Quoted message said:

I don't see a
need for diamond in a sharpening stone since most stones are made of
alumina, which is already harder than any steel, titanium, or other
knife material. Diamond is just overpriced overk<[censored]>

Not if you need to sharpen an alumina knife.

HTH

Yes, an alumina stone would even sharpen an alumina knife, just like
diamond dust is used to cut and polish diamond gemstones. But I have
yet to run across any diamond or alumina knives at my local hardware
store. Even if I did, I would be wary because the alumina or diamond
would likely just be some dust embedded in a softer metal. It doesn't
make the blade any stronger or sharper, but gives it an -abrasive-
property that will scratch glass. That's how the little wheels in
glass cutters are made.

The little wheels in Glass cutter do not scratch the glass. The
pressure of the wheel press and flakes off the glass of little vee
shaped groove. The glass is then flexed and the glass breaks along
the vee grove if you have done it correctly. The glass cutters with a
small diamond in the tip actually scratch the glass and not the
preferred method of cutting glass. The Diamond "scratched glass"
tends to not break as cleanly. I prefer using a small well oiled
wheel to cut glass.

--
Bob Officer
COOSN-266-06-01986
Hammer of Thor, Sept 2005

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 17:54:30 -0700, Bob Officer
<[email hidden]> wrote in
<[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 10:15:10 -0700, in alt.usenet.kooks, Frank

Gilliland wïrenut@NOSPAMïcehouse.net said:

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 16:13:39 +0545, "Kadaitcha Man"
<[email hidden]> wrote in
<[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Frank Gilliland <wïrenut@NOSPAMïcehouse.net> Thou bowlegged fell
serpent. Thou bewildered pilchard. Ye reprimanded:

> I don't see a
> need for diamond in a sharpening stone since most stones are made of
> alumina, which is already harder than any steel, titanium, or other
> knife material. Diamond is just overpriced overk<[censored]>

Not if you need to sharpen an alumina knife.

HTH

Yes, an alumina stone would even sharpen an alumina knife, just like
diamond dust is used to cut and polish diamond gemstones. But I have
yet to run across any diamond or alumina knives at my local hardware
store. Even if I did, I would be wary because the alumina or diamond
would likely just be some dust embedded in a softer metal. It doesn't
make the blade any stronger or sharper, but gives it an -abrasive-
property that will scratch glass. That's how the little wheels in
glass cutters are made.

The little wheels in Glass cutter do not scratch the glass. The
pressure of the wheel press and flakes off the glass of little vee
shaped groove. The glass is then flexed and the glass breaks along
the vee grove if you have done it correctly. The glass cutters with a
small diamond in the tip actually scratch the glass and not the
preferred method of cutting glass. The Diamond "scratched glass"
tends to not break as cleanly. I prefer using a small well oiled
wheel to cut glass.

I stand corrected, and thanks for the good info!

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 18:19:31 -0700, in alt.usenet.kooks, Frank

Gilliland wïrenut@NOSPAMïcehouse.net said:

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 17:54:30 -0700, Bob Officer
<[email hidden]> wrote in
<[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 10:15:10 -0700, in alt.usenet.kooks, Frank

Gilliland wïrenut@NOSPAMïcehouse.net said:

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 16:13:39 +0545, "Kadaitcha Man"
<[email hidden]> wrote in
<[email hidden]>:

>Frank Gilliland <wïrenut@NOSPAMïcehouse.net> Thou bowlegged fell
>serpent. Thou bewildered pilchard. Ye reprimanded:
>
>> I don't see a
>> need for diamond in a sharpening stone since most stones are made of
>> alumina, which is already harder than any steel, titanium, or other
>> knife material. Diamond is just overpriced overk<[censored]>
>
>Not if you need to sharpen an alumina knife.
>
>HTH

Yes, an alumina stone would even sharpen an alumina knife, just like
diamond dust is used to cut and polish diamond gemstones. But I have
yet to run across any diamond or alumina knives at my local hardware
store. Even if I did, I would be wary because the alumina or diamond
would likely just be some dust embedded in a softer metal. It doesn't
make the blade any stronger or sharper, but gives it an -abrasive-
property that will scratch glass. That's how the little wheels in
glass cutters are made.

The little wheels in Glass cutter do not scratch the glass. The
pressure of the wheel press and flakes off the glass of little vee
shaped groove. The glass is then flexed and the glass breaks along
the vee grove if you have done it correctly. The glass cutters with a
small diamond in the tip actually scratch the glass and not the
preferred method of cutting glass. The Diamond "scratched glass"
tends to not break as cleanly. I prefer using a small well oiled
wheel to cut glass.

I stand corrected, and thanks for the good info!

Glad to be a help.
About 15 years as an amateur stained glass artist. I do it for fun,
not profit. Please, don't ask me to make anything for you.

--
Bob Officer
COOSN-266-06-01986
Hammer of Thor, Sept 2005

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 18:56:53 -0700, Bob Officer
<[email hidden]> wrote in
<[email hidden]>:

<snip>

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I stand corrected, and thanks for the good info!

Glad to be a help.
About 15 years as an amateur stained glass artist. I do it for fun,
not profit. Please, don't ask me to make anything for you.

Well, I do have this cathedral that needs a new window.....

BTW, I'm posting from a survival newsgroup, so I suspect you might
have some good advice for those of us less experienced with glass
cuts: What's the best way to clean out shards and apply first aid?
Just go at it with the tweezers?

Clive H said:

Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, which is
the best to use?

Whatever is good for you , and the knife you are using

I like an oil stone for my personal knives , the one I use is more than
100 yr old , and originaly came from Germany in the 1800s with a boat maker

it gives a beautiful edge .

this is ian interesting read , if it hasnt been posted allready :
http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=26036

In Message-ID:<[email hidden]> posted on
Sun, 08 Jul 2007 18:56:53 -0700, Bob Officer wrote: Begin

Quoted message said:

About 15 years as an amateur stained glass artist. I do it for fun,
not profit.

Seems that I saw somewhere that stained glass artists used some kind of
a wick to define the desired breakage line then after it went out and
the glass was still hot along that line it was quenched to effect a cut.

--

Bart

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 19:17:20 -0700, in alt.usenet.kooks, Frank

Gilliland wïrenut@NOSPAMïcehouse.net said:

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 18:56:53 -0700, Bob Officer
<[email hidden]> wrote in
<[email hidden]>:

<snip>

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I stand corrected, and thanks for the good info!

Glad to be a help.
About 15 years as an amateur stained glass artist. I do it for fun,
not profit. Please, don't ask me to make anything for you.

Well, I do have this cathedral that needs a new window.....

Hah! now you know Why I don't do work for other people.

Quoted message said:

BTW, I'm posting from a survival newsgroup, so I suspect you might
have some good advice for those of us less experienced with glass
cuts: What's the best way to clean out shards and apply first aid?
Just go at it with the tweezers?

I would say "Pick out what you can see" However ... be very careful
when removing glass shards, it could be just like removing a plug
blocking a major wound and you could make a person bleed out if you
are not careful. Best immobilize the injured person and refer to a
professional medical personal.

--
Bob Officer
COOSN-266-06-01986
Hammer of Thor, Sept 2005

On Mon, 09 Jul 2007 01:57:12 -0700, Bob Officer
<[email hidden]> wrote in
<[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 19:17:20 -0700, in alt.usenet.kooks, Frank

Gilliland wïrenut@NOSPAMïcehouse.net said:

On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 18:56:53 -0700, Bob Officer
<[email hidden]> wrote in
<[email hidden]>:

<snip>

Quoted message said:

>I stand corrected, and thanks for the good info!

Glad to be a help.
About 15 years as an amateur stained glass artist. I do it for fun,
not profit. Please, don't ask me to make anything for you.

Well, I do have this cathedral that needs a new window.....

Hah! now you know Why I don't do work for other people.

Quoted message said:

BTW, I'm posting from a survival newsgroup, so I suspect you might
have some good advice for those of us less experienced with glass
cuts: What's the best way to clean out shards and apply first aid?
Just go at it with the tweezers?

I would say "Pick out what you can see" However ... be very careful
when removing glass shards, it could be just like removing a plug
blocking a major wound and you could make a person bleed out if you
are not careful. Best immobilize the injured person and refer to a
professional medical personal.

I do know (from experience) that it's difficult to see clear glass
inside a wound. But I never thought that pulling it out could possibly
uncork an artery. Makes sense -- if you can't see all the glass then
you can't see where it's stuck. Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

The sharpening speed and sharpness of edge are both much better with the
diamond. See http://users.ameritech.net/knives/speed.htm

Clive H said:

Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, which is
the best to use?

--
Steve Bottorff
www.sharpeningmadeeasy.com
Remove REMOVE from address when replying

On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:57:56 -0400, "Steve B."
<[email hidden]> wrote in
<[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

The sharpening speed and sharpness of edge are both much better with the
diamond. See http://users.ameritech.net/knives/speed.htm

With a dry, 2-sided kitchen stone and a leather belt, it takes me all
of 2 minutes to get a knife from dull as a wet noodle to razor sharp.
Before anyone spends their hard-earned cash on some super-stone, pick
up a couple cheapies at a hardware store, one medium and one fine, and
just give it a little practice.

Regardless.....

It seems quite a few people have some goofy notions about sharpening
knives. My grandpa taught me how to do it when I was barely old enough
to walk and I've been doing it his way ever since without any problems
at all. It works for everything, from pen-knives to double-bit axes.
I'm sure that everyone has their own method, but for those that don't,
here's a few tips from Grandpa Roedel:

- It's best if the stone is as long as the knife. Not required, but it
makes things go a lot faster. Standard two-sided kitchen stones are
long enough for a 6" blade.

- Don't use oil or water, it clogs up the stone. Just knock the dust
off whenever you see it start to accumulate. If the stone gets oily by
accident, wash it with some acetone or white gas.

- Sharpen the knife by 'shaving' the stone. Take single strokes the
full length of the stone, and draw the blade slightly to cover the
full length of the blade with each stroke. Don't do circular motions
or you will end up with a crooked surface on the stone that won't
sharpen jack. Don't draw the blade backwards, either -- pick it up and
bring it back for each stroke.

- When you see black dust accumulate on the edge of the blade, dust
off the blade and check for a 'burr'. The 'burr' forms on the edge
opposite the one you are sharpening. When the burr runs the full
length of the blade, flip over the blade and do the other side. When
you get a burr on -that- side then switch to the fine stone and
repeat.

- When both sides will scrape dust the full length of the blade with
the fine stone, take single, light strokes on alternate sides of the
blade. You will notice that the burr changes sides with each stroke.
Use lighter strokes each time until the burr is almost gone. That's
when it's time to finish by drawing the blade -backwards- over some
rawhide or lightly scuffed leather. The back side of a leather belt
works fine. This will leave you with a razor sharp edge.

- The blade will stay sharper longer if you rub some rust (yes, RUST)
into the leather. I don't know why, it just does.