Shop to cold set frame in ohio

In article <[email hidden]>, "Rod Raisanen"

Quoted message said:

Does anyone know of a shop in central or southern Ohio that can cold set my frame from 126mm to
130mm. I'm upgrading my old steel lugged frame Giant RS940 and am trying to decide weather to cold
set the frame and go 8 or 9 speed or just get the 7 speed Sora Brifters. I've seen Sheldon's site
but I'm not sure if I want to start prying on my bike with a 2X4. Thanks in advance Rod

To reply remove garbage

Resetting the frame is not strictly necessary. I run a 126 mm lugged steel frame with 8 cogs on an
updated freehub. I have to manually spread the rear dropouts very slightly every time I load or
unload the wheel. It is not a problem for me or the frame.

--
Ryan Cousineau, [email hidden] sfu.ca~rcousineOpen ↗ President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club

You might try Chris's Cycle Shop in Pataskala, OH 43062. Phone is 740-927-4223. www.chriscycle.com

"Rod Raisanen" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Does anyone know of a shop in central or southern Ohio that can cold set my frame from 126mm to
130mm. I'm upgrading my old steel lugged frame Giant RS940 and am trying to decide weather to cold
set the frame and go 8 or 9 speed or just get the 7 speed Sora Brifters. I've seen Sheldon's site
but I'm not sure if I want to start prying on my bike with a 2X4.

Sheldon's method is really easy. Tweaking out each side 2 mm is hardly worth the effort, but the
effort is tiny.

Ryan Cousineau said:

In article <[email hidden]>, "Rod Raisanen"

Quoted message said:

Does anyone know of a shop in central or southern Ohio that can cold set my frame from 126mm to
130mm. I'm upgrading my old steel lugged frame Giant RS940 and am trying to decide weather to
cold set the frame and go 8 or 9 speed or just get the 7 speed Sora Brifters. I've seen Sheldon's
site but I'm not sure if I want to start prying on my bike with a 2X4. Thanks in advance Rod

To reply remove garbage

Resetting the frame is not strictly necessary. I run a 126 mm lugged steel frame with 8 cogs on an
updated freehub. I have to manually spread the rear dropouts very slightly every time I load or
unload the wheel. It is not a problem for me or the frame.

Agreed. I regularly do the same thing with a Trek 1400 (bonded aluminum) frame. I've been snapping a
130mm wheel into that frame for a few years now and so far, so good.

BTW, many have long since forgotten that the early Shimano Dura Ace 8-speed hubs came with conical
lock-washers to assist in snapping them into 126mm frames.

I once did the trig to figure out how moving each dropout 2mm affected alignment. I don't have the
figures in front of me but as I recall the angular difference was probably within the tolerances any
frame builder would accept.

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net home.earthlink.net~jeverett3Open ↗

"Peter Cole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:s85tb.150049$ao4.479732@attbi_s51...

Quoted message said:

"Rod Raisanen" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Does anyone know of a shop in central or southern Ohio that can cold

set my

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

frame from 126mm to 130mm. I'm upgrading my old steel lugged frame

Giant

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

RS940 and am trying to decide weather to cold set the frame and go 8

or 9

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

speed or just get the 7 speed Sora Brifters. I've seen Sheldon's

site but

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I'm not sure if I want to start prying on my bike with a 2X4.

Sheldon's method is really easy. Tweaking out each side 2 mm is hardly

worth

Quoted message said:

the effort, but the effort is tiny.

Yah, do it yourself. 4mm is not going to snap a bridge, and an old steel frame is not hard to bend.
Run strings to make sure the stays are centered. You may want to take it to a shop afterwards to
make sure the drop-out faces are parallel, however. I have the tools to do that at home but
appreciate that others may not. And like the other posters say, you could do nothing and just wedge
the wheel in. I do not like to do that because I prefer to have my wheels drop out (and go in)
easily for flat repair. -- Jay Beattie.

Quoth John Everett:

Quoted message said:

I once did the trig to figure out how moving each dropout 2mm affected alignment. I don't have the
figures in front of me but as I recall the angular difference was probably within the tolerances
any frame builder would accept.

When I was writing sheldonbrown.comframe spacing.htmlOpen ↗ I too did the trigonometry on this:

"...spreading a 120 mm frame to 126 mm only changes the angle by half a degree. Spreading a 126 mm
frame to 130 only changes the angle by one-third of a degree."

Sheldon "High-School Graduate" Brown
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Anyone who cannot cope with mathematics is not fully human. | At best he is a tolerable
| subhuman who has learned to wear | shoes, bathe, and not make messes in the house. | --Robert
| A. Heinlein |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton,
Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.comOpen ↗ Hard-to-find parts
shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.comOpen ↗ sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.comOpen ↗

Sheldon Brown said:

Quoth John Everett:

Quoted message said:

I once did the trig to figure out how moving each dropout 2mm affected alignment. I don't have
the figures in front of me but as I recall the angular difference was probably within the
tolerances any frame builder would accept.

When I was writing sheldonbrown.comframe spacing.htmlOpen ↗ I too did the trigonometry on this:

"...spreading a 120 mm frame to 126 mm only changes the angle by half a degree. Spreading a 126 mm
frame to 130 only changes the angle by one-third of a degree."

Have you ever done the trigonometry on seat tube angles? I've often thought that the amount of
fore-and-aft adjustment built into most saddle rails would compensate for several degrees difference
in frame geometry. Of course it would have a greater effect on smaller frames.

This has languished on my to-do list for years. ;-)

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net home.earthlink.net~jeverett3Open ↗

In article <[email hidden]>, John Everett

Quoted message said:

Sheldon Brown said:

Quoth John Everett:

Quoted message said:

I once did the trig to figure out how moving each dropout 2mm affected alignment. I don't have
the figures in front of me but as I recall the angular difference was probably within the
tolerances any frame builder would accept.

When I was writing sheldonbrown.comframe spacing.htmlOpen ↗ I too did the trigonometry on this:

"...spreading a 120 mm frame to 126 mm only changes the angle by half a degree. Spreading a 126
mm frame to 130 only changes the angle by one-third of a degree."

Have you ever done the trigonometry on seat tube angles? I've often thought that the amount of
fore-and-aft adjustment built into most saddle rails would compensate for several degrees
difference in frame geometry. Of course it would have a greater effect on smaller frames.

This has languished on my to-do list for years. ;-)

Mark Hickey beat you to it. Offset seatposts can turn almost any "geometry" into any other, but
without drastic seatpost changes, there are overlapping but distinct seating positions available to
riders of "Road" and "TT" geometries.

--
Ryan Cousineau, [email hidden] sfu.ca~rcousineOpen ↗ President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club