sif muni

a bad habit? pshh...muni isn't about technique, do whatever gets you
down the mountain. Muni is about having fun!

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For MUni trials, or natural trials. seat in front works as well as it
does for urban trials...but for standard XC MUni, you should just keep
the seat in and riiiiiiiiide.

--
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That's sort of a dilema. I'm sure you would lose your speed if you went
SIF, but if it's easier, that could be a solution. My solution would be
to do rolling hops. I can get higher with a rolling hop than anything
else, and you don't lose you speed either, sometime you accelerate.

onelesscar was right about just getting down the mountain though,
that's the main idea.

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SIF is not as good for 'pecking'.

seat-in allows more flow into the whole riding. Imagine: Blast through
the woods full pace seat-in, quickly do a rolling hop, roll out of it
fast and smooth.

^Doing that SIF would feel much slower, and be more effort than
seat-in. For me personally, and for most riders out there, I bet you
feel at least a little clumsy if you do SIF for the smallest of things.
For things like Muni, I'd do seat-in all the way so I can keep slow in
to riding as well as speed.

Imagine someone doing a street run entirely SIF (eg. SIF riding to
crankflip variations and grinding etc, then rolling out)... that would
be much slower, and a lot more sketchy looking, with less of a flair to
it.

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Sponge said:

SIF is not as good for 'pecking'.

seat-in allows more flow into the whole riding. Imagine: Blast through
the woods full pace seat-in, quickly do a rolling hop, roll out of it
fast and smooth.

^Doing that SIF would feel much slower, and be more effort than
seat-in. For me personally, and for most riders out there, I bet you
feel at least a little clumsy if you do SIF for the smallest of things.
For things like Muni, I'd do seat-in all the way so I can keep slow in
to riding as well as speed.

Imagine someone doing a street run entirely SIF (eg. SIF riding to
crankflip variations and grinding etc, then rolling out)... that would
be much slower, and a lot more sketchy looking, with less of a flair to
it.

that may be true... but once someone master its... you have A LOT more
room for flair distance and all around coolness i think.

imho my friend, i think your onto something.

nowhere in the rule book of MUni does it say NO SIF

Chase

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another question, is pecking used commonly in hilly trails or is it kind
of a slacker thing or a last resort?

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I'd say it's a last resort for a hill too steep to climb.

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I do muni fairly reguaraly and lately I've been experimenting with lots
of different hops to get over logs. Rolling hops dont always work as
the cranks are unlikely to be lined up perfectly. So I do a rolling hop
right before the log(s) then land (just before the log(s)) and without
rolling at all hop again over the log(s). It's kinda weird at first but
it works well. I haven't really tried sif at all because it take a lot
longer to do. I think practise and a low enough seat to hop high is all
you need. Then experiment with heaps of different techniques and then
you'll have heaps of different hopping techniques that can be used for
different situations.

--
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I'd say if you can't get over anything over 8" high without going SIF,
then you've got a problem. It may just be that you need to let your
basic riding skill catch up with what you want to do, or maybe you do
need to force yourself to try different seat hights.

I can hop nearly as high rolling with seat in as I can static SIF. I
think that a lot of people try to get into SIF way too early, instead
of developing seat in and rolling hops first. It seems that the
reputation of SIF gets a lot of people doing it when they can barely
hop otherwise, and then they have problems with the cases, often found
in MUni, where it is more convienient and flowy to have a strong
rolling hop.

Really though, all you really need to worry about is letting your style
develop naturally. Don't force the SIF because it seems to be a status
thing, or if you like, go totally SIF. It's up to you. And what is
right for you is right only for you, everyone is different.

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madmattunipro said:

I'd say if you can't get over anything over 8" high without going SIF,
then you've got a problem. It may just be that you need to let your
basic riding skill catch up with what you want to do, or maybe you do
need to force yourself to try different seat hights.

I can't go higher than 8" without going sif.

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Evan Byrne said:

I can't go higher than 8" without going sif.

I thought you rolling hopped that loading dock?

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Spencer Hochberg said:

I thought you rolling hopped that loading dock?

Ohh this is rolling? Yeah i can do 25" rolling. static like 5"

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uhh
just get insane rolling hops where you can hop something like that from
5 feet away... problem solved 🙂

haha JK

a friend of mine is getting really good at going SIF and back while
jumping ... you just have to get used to it, if you do a crankspin when
you know you won't make it from a distance that may help too

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gordito8me said:

I've been doing alot of muni recently and have noticed that while
keeping my seat at optimum height for technical riding, I have to go
sif in order to get over any logs over 8 inches tall even if I do a
rolling hop. I've been working on making the transition smooth so
basically what I do is I see a log, keep riding and go sif, hop onto
the log straight on (not turning 90 degrees before hopping) and hopping
on top of the log or straight over it. It doesn't slow me down at all
it just uses a little more energy than a normal hop. Is this a bad
habbit that I need to stop?

Crank length is also a factor. Longer cranks will give you more of a
gap between the seat and your but when standing on the pedals with the
cranks horizontal. Shorter cranks give you less of a gap. So with
shorter cranks you don't have as much room to scrunch down for the
jump.

Also, what do you consider to be an optimal seat height for technical
riding? Is the seat low or high? For XC riding I raise the seat so I
can pedal more efficiently. For technical riding I lower the seat so I
can jump better and absorb bumps and drops better. The lower seat for
technical riding isn't so good for pedaling efficiency, but you have to
make some tradeoffs for different forms of muni.

I have a quick release seatpost clamp on my muni so I can easily change
seat height as needed. If I'm going to be doing a long fire road climb
I may raise the seat. If the trails is XC style I may raise the seat.
For the technical or bumpy riding I'll lower the seat.

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john_childs said:

Longer cranks will give you more of a gap between the seat and your but
when standing on the pedals with the cranks horizontal.

Don't you mean when the cranks are vertical?

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Evan Byrne said:

Don't you mean when the cranks are vertical?

No. With longer cranks your seat will be lower given the same leg
extension (bend in the leg at the bottom of the pedal stroke). So with
longer cranks you have a lower seat than with short cranks.

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john_childs said:

Also, what do you consider to be an optimal seat height for technical
riding? Is the seat low or high? For XC riding I raise the seat so I
can pedal more efficiently. For technical riding I lower the seat so I
can jump better and absorb bumps and drops better. The lower seat for
technical riding isn't so good for pedaling efficiency, but you have to
make some tradeoffs for different forms of muni.

I have a quick release seatpost clamp on my muni so I can easily change
seat height as needed. If I'm going to be doing a long fire road climb
I may raise the seat. If the trails is XC style I may raise the seat.
For the technical or bumpy riding I'll lower the seat.

For me I keep the seat high for technical riding and xc style trails.
If I lower the seat, I can't keep enough pressure on my feet and they
just fall straight off the pedals (oddly). I have 150mm cranks on a
torker dx 24''

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