I have located some Suzue Basic Track Hub Sets, these seem to be reasonably priced, I will have an exact figure tomorrow when Vic recovers from their day off.
Don't get excited, Suzue are no longer produced! :o
There's nothing hard in building a fixed gear wheel. Sheesh. Buy a track hub. Buy some spokes. Fire up Sheldon Brown and lace it all together. My first wheel, out of the grand total of 3 that I've built was done just that way. It's not hard. Just sit down and take your time.
You can get all worked up about what hub and what rim and what spokes and what colour and what goddess to sacrifice the cat too and all that [censored]. Go to your lbs, tell them you want a track wheel, but in bits. They'll give you a good hub, even if it's a cheap hub, it'll do the job. The rims aren't critical and I don't give a stuff about the fashion fairies who are currently soiling their tutus - the rim is NOT critical. I've got bloody good wheels with generic Taiwanese rims, bloody good wheels with some lovely old Ambrosio wheels, bloody good wheels with Velocity Aero wheels and some DeepV wheels. The rim makes a difference but it's the way it's built that's important. Just go to your lbs and buy what they use in their workshop. If they aren't willing to support you building your first wheels for your fixed gear steed, find a lbs that gives a [censored]. Same with spokes, just buy what your lbs uses in their workshop. Straight 14guage has built many fine wheels, and it doesn't have the ten commandments engraved in latin on each spoke.
Sure, some will argue that if you go for 'this' rim and 'that' hub laced with 'those' spokes you'll get a better wheel. Sometimes they'll even be right
But for your first build, you can't go wrong by going to a trusted shop, asking them what they'd use, then taking the bits away and having a go yourself. The worst that can happen is you'll take the sorry mess back for them to fix up. But if I can build three dead straight wheels with no-one to nag me about the process, YOU can too.
Some local wheels with DA Hubs have now come to light (see: http://www.triwa.org.au/bb/viewtopic.php?t=1602 ) However, after trying some 700c wheels, I can see the frame is built for 27"x1". The (front) brake calliper drop is an issue with 700c.
The frameset is up for sale as displayed in the photo for $100, and I will continue looking for some 27x1 wheels. I also have a 22 tooth single speed freewheel and an 18 tooth fixed cog & lockring I can sell if required.
I have found some 27x1 wheels: 😄 27" wheelset, Velocity 36 spoke Track Hubs with Velocity 27" Synergy rims, about $400 + tyres. :eek: 27" wheelset, Velocity 36 spoke Track Hubs with Velocity 27" Twin Hollow rims, about $350 + Tyres. 🙄 27" wheelset, MTB/BMX Hubs, Steel 27" 36 spoke rins, 27x1 90psi Tyres, 22 tooth single speed freewheel, $150. 😉
I will build up a pair of the MTB/BMX/Steel Rim Wheels over the next couple of weeks. This option will require brakes on both the front and rear wheels, with the Velocity Hubs it would only require brakes on the front wheel.
I will build up a pair of the MTB/BMX/Steel Rim Wheels over the next couple of weeks. This option will require brakes on both the front and rear wheels, with the Velocity Hubs it would only require brakes on the front wheel.
Don't do it, George, no, no, not the steel rims! Some things were left in the seventies for good reason.
George, here's a wheel (see attachment) which I re-dished & re-spaced to 126mm (for convenience) ...
The wheel currently has a solid axle because it was easier to work with when making adjustments (in particular, to the chainline -- the chainring is mounted on the outer shoulder of the crank's spider), but I may change it back to a hollow axle since the wheel currently has a BMX freewheel.
KIDS, DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME. I had the wingnuts, so I re-tapped them to fit on the contemporary Shimano solid axle that I used ...