Skating Chain

Paul Kopit said:

Occasionally, when I shift from the 50T ring to the 34, the chain will
not drop to the 34 but ride on top of the space between ring. Skate.
I need to rerail the chain to the large ring and downshift again to
fix the problem when riding.

Rings are FSA. Confirmed 10sp by reading the codes stamped on reverse
side of large chainring. Shimano compatible

Campy Ergo Shifters with 2006 Chorus front derailleur. Derailleur
cage is parallel to chainring and ~2 mm above 50t ring.

I'd tweak the inner adjusting screw to allow the mech to move a little
further. The nice thing about 2006 Campag front shifters is that they are
trimmable, so if the chain drags at one side of the movement, a tiny tap
will move the derraileur over a fraction.

I'd keep notes about what I adjusted, so I could go back !

- Nigel

--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

Quoted message said:

Rings are FSA. Confirmed 10sp by reading the codes stamped on reverse
side of large chainring. Shimano compatible

Are you using an FSA crank? And why Shimano-compatible version of the
chainrings instead of Campy?

Quoted message said:

Chain is IRC DX10S and has not been a problem on other bikes.

Are the other drivetrains Campy as well?

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

"Paul Kopit" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Occasionally, when I shift from the 50T ring to the 34, the chain will
not drop to the 34 but ride on top of the space between ring. Skate.
I need to rerail the chain to the large ring and downshift again to
fix the problem when riding.

Rings are FSA. Confirmed 10sp by reading the codes stamped on reverse
side of large chainring. Shimano compatible

Campy Ergo Shifters with 2006 Chorus front derailleur. Derailleur
cage is parallel to chainring and ~2 mm above 50t ring. When tail of
rear derailleur is angled out slightly and the nose therefore angled
in, problem still occurs. In the small ring/large cog combination,
the inner cage of front derailleur is ~2mm from hitting the chain.
Chain doesn't drop off 34t ring. Even though Jump Stop is installled,
it has not been needed.

Chain is IRC DX10S and has not been a problem on other bikes. It is
almost new and has been checked carefully for 20 links and 12". I
used the Park tool as well. Lube is Prolink applied until wet about
every 2-300 miles and wiped next morning. Chain wiped after every
ride between major lubes. Chain length is proper. Big-big can be
engaged. Small/small, the chain does not drag the bottom of rear
derailleur.

The skating can occur occur across the range of cogs.

The 50t chainring may be worn but the chain drops cleanly off when I
shift in stand. I have not been able to get the chain to skate in
stand.

Would bending the nose of the front derailleur help?
Should I rotate the big ring on the crankarm?
Should I change the big ring? What ring is recommended?

Which order would you do the above?

Paul Kopit said:

Occasionally, when I shift from the 50T ring to the 34, the chain will
not drop to the 34 but ride on top of the space between ring. Skate.
I need to rerail the chain to the large ring and downshift again to
fix the problem when riding.

Quoted message said:

Would bending the nose of the front derailleur help?
Should I rotate the big ring on the crankarm?
Should I change the big ring? What ring is recommended?

Which order would you do the above?

---------
none of the above....

check you clearance between the top of the teeth on the 50t and the
lower edge of the ft derailieur. If you move the derailier down to get
it as close as possible, it will 'throw' the chain to the inside a
little better. FSA chainrings try to use a spacing that works with
9/10 and Campy/Shimano.... so if nothing else works you could try
reducing the spacing by filing down the chainring 'seats' a little....
but if you dont get them all the same the chainring will wobble.

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Are you using an FSA crank? And why Shimano-compatible version of the
chainrings instead of Campy?

Quoted message said:

Chain is IRC DX10S and has not been a problem on other bikes.

Are the other drivetrains Campy as well?

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

The Shimano version of the cranks take the narrower versions of the
chains. The Campy version was made for the former, wider 10sp width.
Also, I've been using Shimano narrower 10 chain on Campy for almost 2
years now. It works quieter and better thant he Campy width.

I've had nothing but good luck with DX10S on several bikes.

Paul Kopit said:

Occasionally, when I shift from the 50T ring to the 34, the chain will
not drop to the 34 but ride on top of the space between ring. Skate.
I need to rerail the chain to the large ring and downshift again to
fix the problem when riding.

Rings are FSA. Confirmed 10sp by reading the codes stamped on reverse
side of large chainring. Shimano compatible

Campy Ergo Shifters with 2006 Chorus front derailleur. Derailleur
cage is parallel to chainring and ~2 mm above 50t ring. When tail of
rear derailleur is angled out slightly and the nose therefore angled
in, problem still occurs. In the small ring/large cog combination,
the inner cage of front derailleur is ~2mm from hitting the chain.
Chain doesn't drop off 34t ring. Even though Jump Stop is installled,
it has not been needed.

Chain is IRC DX10S and has not been a problem on other bikes. It is
almost new and has been checked carefully for 20 links and 12". I
used the Park tool as well. Lube is Prolink applied until wet about
every 2-300 miles and wiped next morning. Chain wiped after every
ride between major lubes. Chain length is proper. Big-big can be
engaged. Small/small, the chain does not drag the bottom of rear
derailleur.

The skating can occur occur across the range of cogs.

The 50t chainring may be worn but the chain drops cleanly off when I
shift in stand. I have not been able to get the chain to skate in
stand.

Would bending the nose of the front derailleur help?
Should I rotate the big ring on the crankarm?
Should I change the big ring? What ring is recommended?

Which order would you do the above?

Get Camoagnolo small ring, from their aluminum cranks, true 110mm BCD-
FSA rings are pretty junky, even on their carbon cranks..same for
their BBs.

Paul Kopit said:

On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 17:38:20 GMT, "Mike Jacoubowsky"

Quoted message said:

Are you using an FSA crank? And why Shimano-compatible version of the
chainrings instead of Campy?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Chain is IRC DX10S and has not been a problem on other bikes.

Quoted message said:

Are the other drivetrains Campy as well?

Quoted message said:

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

The Shimano version of the cranks take the narrower versions of the
chains. The Campy version was made for the former, wider 10sp width.
Also, I've been using Shimano narrower 10 chain on Campy for almost 2
years now. It works quieter and better thant he Campy width.

I've had nothing but good luck with DX10S on several bikes.

Rememeber that 'Ultra' Campag chains are 5.9mm, just like shimano-once
again, Campag rings from their Centaur cranks..much better rings. Or
even shiano rings from their R700 crank.As time goes on and we service
the older FSA cranks we sold 'in the beginning', not impressed with
their bearings and rings...I got it!! Ceramic!!!

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

As time goes on and we service
the older FSA cranks we sold 'in the beginning', not impressed with
their bearings and rings...I got it!! Ceramic!!!

I agree. The bearings in the ISIS bb are not good but, sent to FSA
they fix and turnaround pretty fast. The ramps on the big rings seem
to wear faster than other rings.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

As time goes on and we service
the older FSA cranks we sold 'in the beginning', not impressed with
their bearings and rings...I got it!! Ceramic!!!

I agree. The bearings in the ISIS bb are not good but, sent to FSA
they fix and turnaround pretty fast. The ramps on the big rings seem
to wear faster than other rings.

Ironically, my "nice" bike has an FSA ti ISIS bb. It wasn't my first choice
(I've done a number on ti components in the past, most notably pedal
spindles), but I figured what the heck, it was all we had in the right size
at the time, and it was, of course, quite light. That was over two years and
maybe 15k miles ago, and it's still running great. Smoothest-felling BB I've
had. Please note that I understand this experience is far from universal,
and I'm not the lightest (174lbs) nor kindest (all I do is ride hills &
sprint) to bike parts. But somehow this darned thing has worked unbelievably
well, better than any other BB I've used in the past.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Get Camoagnolo small ring, from their aluminum cranks, true 110mm BCD-
FSA rings are pretty junky, even on their carbon cranks..same for
their BBs.

I'm op on this thread. I tried almost all possible adjustments. Then
I just replaced the 34t ring with a newer one and the chain no longer
skates. The bad chainring looks fine and did not skip and was not
noisy.

Paul, waste nothing, will try to use this "bad" ring on a bike that
uses 9sp chain, i.e. my tandem.

The Sugino Alpina compact crankset has wonderful looking rings. Does
anyone sell them yet?