Slick Road Tires

This has been covered extensively by the press and the net communities. Basically, you don't need tread. Do a google.com search for the information. Tread works on cars which have a relatively square tread, but on bicycles, it really doesn't help much. If it's oily or sandy, the tread wouldn't save you anyway, IMHO. Good luck on your quest for info. Do you ever hear of the pros getting out their rain tires? Maybe a softer compound, but not treads. Anybody?

--Pat.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by pcassedy
My new bike (Trek 2300) has slick style tires with no tread. The LBS said they provide better traction as more rubber is in contact with the pavement, but I am somewhat sceptical, especially in the rain or on an unexpected slick spot. I am wondering if I should replace them with a conventional tread type tire.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by pcassedy
My new bike (Trek 2300) has slick style tires with no tread. The LBS said they provide better traction as more rubber is in contact with the pavement, but I am somewhat sceptical, especially in the rain or on an unexpected slick spot. I am wondering if I should replace them with a conventional tread type tire.

Pat Lee is 100% correct.

I read last week in an article by Continental Tyres, that the tread in bicycle tyres (for Road Bikes) have no use at all.

It's mere a matter of satisfying your mind. The treaded tyres is just as slippery in the Wet than the slicks are.

BTW, I also have slicks and I'll ride them till they need replacement....or when I want a different colour tyre.:p

If you want to read about why tread is useless on bicycle tyres there is a good explanation at

http://sheldonbrown.com/wheels/index.html

I used to road race motorcycles in my younger days back when I was invincable. Any way I always raced in a class that required treaded tires however, I have seen pros race with slicks on the rear of their motorcycles in the rain and win.....

I always use slicks on my TREK 2300 and have never had a problem with traction when racing in the rain, only when a corner has not been swept and has sand on it. A treaded tire sould be no better in my opinion.

Ride the stock tires with confidence, mine came with Bontrager tires on it that offered great traction but wore out in about 600 miles. Not sure what brand they really are...

Enjoy the bike.....Wally

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by pcassedy
My new bike (Trek 2300) has slick style tires with no tread. The LBS said they provide better traction as more rubber is in contact with the pavement, but I am somewhat sceptical, especially in the rain or on an unexpected slick spot. I am wondering if I should replace them with a conventional tread type tire.

I would have to agree with the rest of the gang.

I ride slicks.
They grip really good, especially the Conti's.
Most of the info from your LBS is reliable if they are knowledgeable in their field.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by pcassedy
My new bike (Trek 2300) has slick style tires with no tread. The LBS said they provide better traction as more rubber is in contact with the pavement, but I am somewhat sceptical, especially in the rain or on an unexpected slick spot. I am wondering if I should replace them with a conventional tread type tire.

They were right. You get better traction with the "slick" tire.

With car tire you would be right about the rain issue. The gaps between the tread gives the water someplace to go rather than causing hydroplaning. With a bike tire, however, it is not an issue. since the tire is so thin, water is pushed from beneth it to the sides.

The shape of the tire also naturally works to force water to the sides.. Picture the patch in contact with the road.. You have a boat shape, pointed at the front and rear. Again car tires are wide and the front of the contact patch is more flat faced and therefore doesn't part water.

As for smooth slick surfaces like a wet painted stripe on the road, a tread pattern would do more harm than good. since the surface in this case is perfectly smooth, there would be nothing for tread to interlock with (think co-friction of friction). Instead, you just have areas between tread in which you are not in contact with the road and therefore have reduced traction with a tread pattern.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Wally

Ride the stock tires with confidence, mine came with Bontrager tires on it that offered great traction but wore out in about 600 miles. Not sure what brand they really are...

Continental.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by stevenaleach
They were right. You get better traction with the "slick" tire.

With car tire you would be right about the rain issue. The gaps between the tread gives the water someplace to go rather than causing hydroplaning. With a bike tire, however, it is not an issue. since the tire is so thin, water is pushed from beneth it to the sides.

The shape of the tire also naturally works to force water to the sides.. Picture the patch in contact with the road.. You have a boat shape, pointed at the front and rear. Again car tires are wide and the front of the contact patch is more flat faced and therefore doesn't part water.

As for smooth slick surfaces like a wet painted stripe on the road, a tread pattern would do more harm than good. since the surface in this case is perfectly smooth, there would be nothing for tread to interlock with (think co-friction of friction). Instead, you just have areas between tread in which you are not in contact with the road and therefore have reduced traction with a tread pattern.

OK - get the logic on this thread - for water.

What about slush or shallow snow? This is a major roadside issue here for the next five months. I have not seen anything that leads me to believe that tire shape would necessarily be a benefit under those conditions. It seems to me that some tread rise could help reach pavement in those conditions. I'm thinkin' that I might prefer 50% of my tire contact area on the pavement to 100% of the same contact on hard slush.

Any thoughts?😕

The tread on a tire is less then 1mm. IMO the tread will not be of any use to displace the slush or water. It might work if you have a mountain bike.

Treaded or slick, both are equally slippery in the rain.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Chuckrossin
OK - get the logic on this thread - for water.

What about slush or shallow snow? This is a major roadside issue here for the next five months. I have not seen anything that leads me to believe that tire shape would necessarily be a benefit under those conditions. It seems to me that some tread rise could help reach pavement in those conditions. I'm thinkin' that I might prefer 50% of my tire contact area on the pavement to 100% of the same contact on hard slush.

Any thoughts?😕

Unless there is ice you will have no problem. Say you have 700x23Cs inflated to 120 PSI. All of your weight plus the bike's weight is concentrated on that rather small hard contact area which cuts through the snow and rides on the road.

Basically, with slush or a few inches of snow, you are just riding on wet roads. Of course with ice it is a different matter since you won't be able to cut through it to reach the pavement. Again, slicks = 100% in contact with pavement. Tread=gaps which are not in contact therefore less traction. On ice, while slicks woud theoretically be slightly better, I don't think it makes much difference at all.... you still will have almost no traction. You might as well go with a mountain bike on ice so you can get studded tires. (Yes they actually make them!)

Here the "tread" (studs) actually does give you a benefit because it has something to interlock with. The studs cut into the ice and grip it. The rubber tread pattern is of little or no importance, just the metal studs. The tread probably doesn't hurt anything though since there is little difference in traction between rubber on ice versus not being in contact at all... virtually no traction either way.

My only issue with slicks is that they seem to puncture easily and wear out quickly. I started using Michelin slicks when doing some club crit races 10 years ago. I went through several sets of Michelin slicks over the years before switching to Conti GPs, which have done great for me. Anyway, tried again this spring with the Pro Race on recommendation of an LBS.

Surprise, the rear picked up a small cut right through the center of the tread about the second or third time out. I switched back to my old 1/2 worn Conti GP, and have still put another 1000 miles on it with no problems. The Michelin Pro Race is still on the front, doing OK.

Based on personal experience, seems that slicks are pretty much race tires; thin and lots of grip but not very durable. Has anyone had good service from the Michelins, or is there a tougher slick tire available?

Dan

I used the new Michelin Pro Race tires this year with great luck Ive got 1400 miles on them now the rear center is a little flat but no punctures.

Lase year I used race light tires the second half of the season and got 1000 miles on them with no problems.

Have to admit though I am a Michelin fan from way back in my Motorcycle Racing days.

Just a little superstition I guess.......

IMHO, to minimize the risk of puncture, always inflate the types to the maximum pressure allowed (for my Michelin pro race it's 116 psi) before riding.