Ok usually ppl would be asking what is the fastest tube/ tyre combo but I am more interested in finding a rediculously slow tyre/ tube combo to help build a bit of strength and resistance on the bike. I recently weighed my wheels which are a combo of sora hubs, mavic cxp 22 and approx 32 or 36 spoke count, they came in at 2.4 kilograms :eek: with my rear cassette still on the rear wheel and tahts not even including my tyres. What is the best way to keep adding resistance to these bombproof wheels?
By the way I will be investing in some race wheels/ race tyre and tube combo in a few months.
Most ridiculous thread I've ever seen. Man, just drag a tyre behind your bike or for something really revolutionary ride the steepest hills you can, ride into headwinds or put those lead weight bands around your ankles.
Ride around in top gear...everywhere...
Maybe get some F1 tyre warmers before you go out so the treads are really sticky and you feel like you arre riding on tar...
Get two of the fattest, heaviest tires you can find. Cut the beads off of one and stuff it into the second. Also known as "the system": http://www.drunkcyclist.com/rant_system.htm ([censored] warning)
Reports in the forums seem to indicate that the Armadillo line can be sluggish.
So, between that, and my experience with thorn resistant tubes on my comfort bike, I would suggest under-inflated Armadillos in the largest size your frame can handle... and use the thick thorn resistant tubes filled with a good amount of slime sealant.
Be sure to always ride up hill and into the wind as well...
So how is training on a "slow" tire going to do anything different than, say, pedaling in a higher gear or higher cadence, doing intervals, or finding some worthy climbs?
Eat some steaks before your ride and wear a large floppy raincoat during the ride. That'll beat any tire change anyday.
-Bikeguy
This makes a lot of sense, at 40Kmh, 80% of the resistance is aerodynamic. If you wear the raincoat with the zip down but not unhooked, it will act as a sail against you.
Get two of the fattest, heaviest tires you can find. Cut the beads off of one and stuff it into the second. Also known as "the system": drunkcyclist.comrant system.htmOpen ↗ ([censored] warning)
OMG that is hardcore! I dont think I am game enough to try that an plus i haven't got any old tires lying around the place.
Current combo is michelin axial bi sport (speediums) 350 grams each & specialized thorn resistant tubes 150 grams each. Si should be up to 3.4 kilograms of rolling weight 😎 😄 sweet. I hope my theory works- extra resistance while I am doing base/endurance riding will slowly but surely strengthen me without realising it. When I start racing on my race wheels and tires I will be flying🙄 ...its actually very common practice to ride heavy slow bikes when training and ride aero/ light bikes when racing.
OMG that is hardcore! I dont think I am game enough to try that an plus i haven't got any old tires lying around the place.
Current combo is michelin axial bi sport (speediums) 350 grams each & specialized thorn resistant tubes 150 grams each. Si should be up to 3.4 kilograms of rolling weight 😎 😄 sweet. I hope my theory works- extra resistance while I am doing base/endurance riding will slowly but surely strengthen me without realising it. When I start racing on my race wheels and tires I will be flying🙄 ...its actually very common practice to ride heavy slow bikes when training and ride aero/ light bikes when racing.
Sorry, but heavy wheels and tires don't matter much at all for base/endurance riding a constant speeds. They might allow you to jump and accelerate for sprints just a bit quicker, but that's all. Besides, believe all Michelin slicks have fairly low rolling resistance. What you need are cheap, wide tires at low pressures. Find cheap or bulletproof 28 mm or wider tires with heavy sidewalls, inflate to 75 psi and you're set.
That, plus the parachute effect of a big flapping jersey ought to slow you down pretty well. I've never had the desire to go slower, preferring instead the conservation of energy theory...particularly when it's my energy🙂
Sorry, but heavy wheels and tires don't matter much at all for base/endurance riding a constant speeds. They might allow you to jump and accelerate for sprints just a bit quicker, but that's all. Besides, believe all Michelin slicks have fairly low rolling resistance. What you need are cheap, wide tires at low pressures. Find cheap or bulletproof 28 mm or wider tires with heavy sidewalls, inflate to 75 psi and you're set.
That, plus the parachute effect of a big flapping jersey ought to slow you down pretty well. I've never had the desire to go slower, preferring instead the conservation of energy theory...particularly when it's my energy🙂
Its like this, Why do I hit myself with a hammer? because it feels so good when I stop:p 😄 . Why do I ride on 2.4kg bulletproof 100% iron wheels with fat tyres inflated at 80 psi with puncture proof tubes? because it feels so good when it stops... You have actually increased resistance in your training which you have hopefully adapted to, eventually your average speeds should increase to what they once were on a fast set of wheels even on easy rides.
Its like this, Why do I hit myself with a hammer? because it feels so good when I stop:p 😄 . Why do I ride on 2.4kg bulletproof 100% iron wheels with fat tyres inflated at 80 psi with puncture proof tubes? because it feels so good when it stops... You have actually increased resistance in your training which you have hopefully adapted to, eventually your average speeds should increase to what they once were on a fast set of wheels even on easy rides.
So why not just ride the light bike faster? That can hurt too.
