I've never been one to get too deeply into the details of frame design since I have a fairly average
body and seem to adapt well to any reasonably designed bike. My wife is a different story though and
I'm trying to understand the tradeoffs necessary to get a good fit for her with a small cyclocross
bike. Her current frame is a 48 cm Redline Conquest that has been declared insufficient due to
toe-wheel overlap. I've measured 4 cm of overlap with the current setup.
I don't want to replace this frame only to have the same problem, so I've set about trying to
calculate toe overlap based on the following published specifications and measurements:
Frame Specifications: Wheelbase Chainstay length BB height
Measurements: Wheel radius Crank Length Pedal offset from BB center Toe offset from pedal center
I've created an Excel spreadsheet that calculates the dimensions of two triangles defined by the BB,
dropouts, and the intersection of the wheelbase line and a line drawn vertically from the BB. It
then calculates the toe clearance when the wheel is at an angle that intersects the toe. If I'm not
mistaken, the only factor I'm neglecting is wheel flop due to head tube angle, but I assume that is
negligible.
My calculated value for the Redline is 1.6 cm of overlap compared to the actual value of 4 cm. For
my wifes road bike, the measured and calculated values are within 1 cm. In any case, the calculation
seems like a good basis for comparison of various geometrys.
Plugging in some numbers from various vendor websites, I'm able to confirm that Redline has made
some design tradeoffs that increase toe overlap. It has a short wheelbase and long chainstays
compared to other makes. To make matters worse, my wifes Redline has a wheelbase that measures 1.5
cm under the spec, increasing the problem. I can't say for sure that this is build error because the
bike has been loaned to juniors and crashed in ways that I can only speculate about.
Looking at other designs, Kona's Jake the Snake (49)has 2.6 cm more toe clearance. They seem to have
accomplished this by using a longer wheelbase and shortening the chainstay by using a steeper seat
tube angle. The Gunnar Crosshair (48) also has better toe clearance. They have a shorter wheelbase
than the Kona, but an even steeper seat tube allows for a shorter chainstay. It appears that the
tradeoff is:
Wheelbase vs. Seat Angle/Chainstay Length vs. Toe Clearance
Comments? Is my methodology valid? Which tradeoff sounds better, Kona or Gunnar? Any recommendations
for other well designed small cross frames? Is the Redline a pig or what? Should I have Mark Hickey
do a custom frame?
All opinions welcome, Bret
P.S. If you'd like to have the spreadsheet, drop me an email.