Spinning Cranks round

FWIW. Sight unseen, let me suggest that presuming that when you are doing your test that the chain is on the chainring-cog combination which is approximately the same on both bikes AND the resultant chainline is roughly the same AND the pulley wheels aren't clogged/gummed-up on your racer's rear deralleur then it could simply be a lack-of-miles on your racer's BB and its seals are still from-the-factory snug ...

What type of crankset-BB combination is on both bikes?

racer has srm power cranks in not sure on the BB didnt come with it. My bike is customed.

Winter bike not sure. Done alot of miles on that one anyway Racer is about 4 months of riding winter one has about 1 and half

If you suspect your bottom bracket is dragging, remove the chain from the chainrings altogether.

It could be your racer just has a bit more draggy freehub mechanism, which isn't a big deal unless you do a lot of coasting.

Or, your racer has a lot lighter cranks and pedals resulting in a lower moment of rotation.

Your rear hub and which cog you have the chain on will make a difference. The grease packed in the bearings will slow down free spinning bearings. Seals contact surface will also present friction that effects the cranks from free spinning. All things considered I dont think this is an issue to worry about unless you are feeling some grinding or knocking sounds while pedaling the bike forward.

The power requirements to spin the cranks are very low relative to the power you supply to the bicycle. The losses are even lower. No one should not wory about it.

How long any bearing supported device spins by itself with out a load--like a crank, a wheel, and etc--is absolutely meaningless. Bearings are designed to operate under a load. I wouldn't worry at all about how many times my crank spins unless it wouldn't spin at all, I could feel grinding or summat when it turned, or it made noise when it turned.

I just feel im wasting more energy on the racer then my winter bike.

You should probably be racing on your winter bike then?

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by Sam123 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

I just feel im wasting more energy on the racer then my winter bike.

You're kidding, right? If you put a dead child on your bike, strap one of the dead child's feet to a pedal, and position the pedal somewhere just past top dead center, the weight of the dead child's leg will move the pedal. Please note that the dead child actually produces no power. There are many more things that you should concern yourself with that are much more worthy re: racing than seal drag on a BB. Seriously, it is absolutely not worth worrying about.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by Sam123 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

I just feel im wasting more energy on the racer then my winter bike.

FWIW. What others have said could certainly be true ...

YOU really need to isolate the possible problem AND/OR allay your reservations that there is a problem with the drivetrain on your racer ...

• CARTRIDGE BEARINGS can be fragile and are subject to damage when they are being installed ...
  
• a damaged Cartridge Bearing can present a lot of resistance
  

The standard (steel bearing) Cartridge Bearings on a DT SWISS hub feel tight when they are not loaded, but the presumed-to-be Cartridge Bearings on a White Industries hub are not.

So, a way to test your bike's BB would be to:

• remove the chain from the chainring(s) ... cover your BB shell with some tape/whatever, first, or remove the chain from the bike (whichever is easier)
  
• grasp the spider as if you were grabbing a bowling ball
  
• turn the crank while applying downward pressure & see how much-or-little resistance is in the BB's bearings.
  
• if you crank turns smoothly & feels "light" then what you experienced in your original test was due to the lack of load
  
• if turning the cranks doesn't feel "light" then one-or-both cartridge bearings may be damaged
  

The worst case scenario, IMO, is if your racer has a BB30 & the shop installed the bearings incorrectly BECAUSE you will have to bring it back to the same shop & the same "Wrench" who may have done the clumsy, initial installation may be the one working on your bike once again!

Good luck.