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Spoke breakage problem?

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Cycling Equipment
Published
19 January 2004
Last activity
25 January 2004
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Mark Wolff
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  1. I experienced an interesting problem this weekend. After completing a long ride on Saturday, a rear
    drive side spoke broke (at the nipple) in the back of the van while driving home.

    I built the wheels a few years ago; 32 hole small flange Campy Record freewheel hubs, Campy Victory
    Strada tubulars, w/ DT 14 g butted spokes, 3X on the drive side, radial on the non-drive side.

    I don't recall ever seeing a spoke break at the nipple before, and that it popped two hours after
    riding has me looking for help w/ an explanation?

    Thanks, MW

  2. Quoted message said:

    I experienced an interesting problem this weekend. After completing a long ride on Saturday, a
    rear drive side spoke broke (at the nipple) in the back of the van while driving home.

    I built the wheels a few years ago; 32 hole small flange Campy Record freewheel hubs, Campy
    Victory Strada tubulars, w/ DT 14 g butted spokes, 3X on the drive side, radial on the non-
    drive side.

    I don't recall ever seeing a spoke break at the nipple before, and that it popped two hours after
    riding has me looking for help w/ an


    explanation?

    Spokes do sometimes break at the nipple, typically right where the threads end. That's obviously a
    weak spot in the spoke, but under normal conditions it doesn't cause a problem. Is it possible that
    the spokes suffered quite a bit of twisting during the assembly process? That's more often the case
    on the drive side, due to the increased tension.

    The fact that it popped two hours after riding probably isn't any more significant than a tube that
    suddenly decides it doesn't want to hold air as your bike's just sitting there. I'm sure that, had
    you ridden for two hours and five minutes (instead of just two hours) it may have broken on you
    while riding.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.com

  3. To me, a classic symptom of a wheel that needs to be stress relieved (pulling spoke, I would
    assume). Radial NDS spoking didn't help things, either. If you need further info on this try a
    google groups for "stress relieving" or get "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt.

    "Mark Wolff" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I experienced an interesting problem this weekend. After completing a long ride on Saturday, a
    rear drive side spoke broke (at the nipple) in the back of the van while driving home.

    I built the wheels a few years ago; 32 hole small flange Campy Record freewheel hubs, Campy
    Victory Strada tubulars, w/ DT 14 g butted spokes, 3X on the drive side, radial on the non-
    drive side.

    I don't recall ever seeing a spoke break at the nipple before, and that it popped two hours after
    riding has me looking for help w/ an


    explanation?

    Quoted message said:


    Thanks, MW

  4. it's fatigue. it happens for a variety of reasons, none of which are significantly preventable at
    the user level. just replace the spoke.

    jb

    Mark Wolff said:

    I experienced an interesting problem this weekend. After completing a long ride on Saturday, a
    rear drive side spoke broke (at the nipple) in the back of the van while driving home.

    I built the wheels a few years ago; 32 hole small flange Campy Record freewheel hubs, Campy
    Victory Strada tubulars, w/ DT 14 g butted spokes, 3X on the drive side, radial on the non-
    drive side.

    I don't recall ever seeing a spoke break at the nipple before, and that it popped two hours after
    riding has me looking for help w/ an explanation?

    Thanks, MW

  5. Mark Wolff said:

    I experienced an interesting problem this weekend. After completing a long ride on Saturday, a
    rear drive side spoke broke (at the nipple) in the back of the van while driving home.

    I built the wheels a few years ago; 32 hole small flange Campy Record freewheel hubs, Campy
    Victory Strada tubulars, w/ DT 14 g butted spokes, 3X on the drive side, radial on the non-
    drive side.

    I don't recall ever seeing a spoke break at the nipple before, and that it popped two hours after
    riding has me looking for help w/ an explanation?

    I think its time was just up. The only spoke I've ever broken was 50 miles into a 60 miles ride, and
    it was a couple of years old too (the wheels were rather nasty machine-built ones with "rustless"
    spokes). It's annoying how they always go on the rear drive side though.

  6. Mark Wolff said:

    I experienced an interesting problem this weekend. After completing a long ride on Saturday, a
    rear drive side spoke broke (at the nipple) in the back of the van while driving home.

    Quoted message said:

    I built the wheels a few years ago; 32 hole small flange Campy Record freewheel hubs, Campy
    Victory Strada tubulars, w/ DT 14 g butted spokes, 3X on the drive side, radial on the non-
    drive side.

    Quoted message said:

    I don't recall ever seeing a spoke break at the nipple before, and that it popped two hours after
    riding has me looking for help w/ an explanation?

    Spokes break equally well at either end for the same reason, fatigue. These are fatigue failures or
    the spoke would have broken at the first hard jolt from a bump in the road at speed. Spokes
    generally break at the elbow or at the thread because the elbow can easily be at its yield stress
    (the stress that causes permanent deformation) from being bent around the flange to reach the rim.
    In the threads, the reduced cross section also increases stress and if the entry into the nipple
    isn't straight, it will also be near its yield stress.

    Every wheel rotation causes each spoke to go through one major stress change as it passes the ground
    contact of the wheel. About 768 cycles per mile and about 800 miles for one million cycles, a number
    often used in fatigue characterization. Steel does not last long if stress cycled near its yield
    point, so reducing stress or stress relieving after wheel building is the single most important step
    in building durable wheels.

    Your wheel would surely have broken its spoke in the next quarter mile had you continued because it
    was already cracked so far through that it was like a piece of soft material stretching the last
    strand still connected so it could snap.

    draco.acs.uci.edu8c.1.html

    There's more about this in "the Bicycle Wheel".

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  7. [email hidden] wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Mark Wolff said:

    I experienced an interesting problem this weekend. After completing a long ride on Saturday, a
    rear drive side spoke broke (at the nipple) in the back of the van while driving home.

    Quoted message said:

    I built the wheels a few years ago; 32 hole small flange Campy Record freewheel hubs, Campy
    Victory Strada tubulars, w/ DT 14 g butted spokes, 3X on the drive side, radial on the non-
    drive side.

    Quoted message said:

    I don't recall ever seeing a spoke break at the nipple before, and that it popped two hours
    after riding has me looking for help w/ an explanation?

    Spokes break equally well at either end for the same reason, fatigue. These are fatigue failures
    or the spoke would have broken at the first hard jolt from a bump in the road at speed. Spokes
    generally break at the elbow or at the thread because the elbow can easily be at its yield stress
    (the stress that causes permanent deformation) from being bent around the flange to reach the rim.
    In the threads, the reduced cross section also increases stress and if the entry into the nipple
    isn't straight, it will also be near its yield stress.

    Every wheel rotation causes each spoke to go through one major stress change as it passes the
    ground contact of the wheel. About 768 cycles per mile and about 800 miles for one million cycles,
    a number often used in fatigue characterization. Steel does not last long if stress cycled near
    its yield point, so reducing stress or stress relieving after wheel building is the single most
    important step in building durable wheels.

    Your wheel would surely have broken its spoke in the next quarter mile had you continued because
    it was already cracked so far through that it was like a piece of soft material stretching the
    last strand still connected so it could snap.

    draco.acs.uci.edu8c.1.html

    There's more about this in "the Bicycle Wheel".

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

    Dear Jobst

    Do elbow-spokes really break equally well at either end?

    If so, are there bad practices that might favor breaking far more spokes at the hub?

    I ask because my spokes have always broken at the hub, never at the nipple. They're almost always
    the rear drive-side spokes with more tension, just as you predict, but even my rare front spoke
    breaks at the hub, not the nipple.

    I have an embarrassing suspcion that a really badly matched derailleur sometimes rattled against the
    rear drive-side spokes, closer to the hub than the rim.

    Incidentally, where exactly would you expect spokes to break at the hub? Out in the open and across
    the main shaft? At 45 degrees in the elbow? Or all the way around the bend, just short of the flared
    spoke-end?

    I have a vague notion that my spokes usually crack just before the flared end, leaving a spoke with
    a jagged elbow and a button still sitting flush in the hub-hole that I have to knock out.

    Carl Fogel

  8. Thanks to all the info. I've broken spokes before, but always at the elbow, and most always non-
    drive side ones.

    I've read the book and refer to it before each try at wheel building. These were indeed "stress
    relieved" as described in the book when built. Given that the drive side spokes were all fairly
    equally tensioned originally, but fairly high to try and achieve reasonable tension on the non-drive
    side, should I assume the remaining drive side ones are ready to fail and replace them all?

    MW

  9. Carl Fogel said:
    Quoted message said:

    Your wheel would surely have broken its spoke in the next quarter mile had you continued because
    it was already cracked so far through that it was like a piece of soft material stretching the
    last strand still connected so it could snap.

    draco.acs.uci.edu8c.1.html

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    There's more about this in "the Bicycle Wheel".

    Quoted message said:

    Do elbow-spokes really break equally well at either end?

    Quoted message said:

    If so, are there bad practices that might favor breaking far more spokes at the hub?

    That depends more on the flange size, spoke pattern and skill of the wheel builder. The point is
    that a spoke nipple not entirely in-line with the spoke line causes a bend and this bend is
    concentrated in the first thread. Without a hefty stress reliving stretch, this will be a high
    stress point. If the wheel is loosely built, it may not causer a break. The reason for carrying
    spare spokes when touring WITH nipples threaded on is that when a spoke breaks off in the thread the
    nipple is usually useless.

    Quoted message said:

    I ask because my spokes have always broken at the hub, never at the nipple. They're almost always
    the rear drive-side spokes with more tension, just as you predict, but even my rare front spoke
    breaks at the hub, not the nipple.

    That's usually for lack of "improving the spoke line" and insufficient stress relief.

    Quoted message said:

    I have an embarrassing suspicion that a really badly matched derailleur sometimes rattled against
    the rear drive-side spokes, closer to the hub than the rim.

    These are fatigue failures unless you can see cuts in the spoke. I can't imagine an aluminum
    derailleur cutting a spoke.

    Quoted message said:

    Incidentally, where exactly would you expect spokes to break at the hub? Out in the open and
    across the main shaft? At 45 degrees in the elbow? Or all the way around the bend, just short of
    the flared spoke-end?

    Most often right in the bend, but then I have seen them break elsewhere, usually from having been
    bent by some external force. Gouged spokes from a dropped chain often last a long time even with
    gouges in them if they weren't bent. This shows that it is not tension that causes failures, but
    bending (forming) stresses.

    Quoted message said:

    I have a vague notion that my spokes usually crack just before the flared end, leaving a spoke
    with a jagged elbow and a button still sitting flush in the hub-hole that I have to knock out.

    You should get over that syndrome. Build some good wheels with good components with 36 spokes. Mine
    have lasted about 25 years with rim replacements now and then.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  10. Mark Wolff said:

    Thanks to all the info. I've broken spokes before, but always at the elbow, and most always non-
    drive side ones.

    Quoted message said:

    I've read the book and refer to it before each try at wheel building. These were indeed "stress
    relieved" as described in the book when built.

    Quoted message said:

    Given that the drive side spokes were all fairly equally tensioned originally, but fairly high to
    try and achieve reasonable tension on the non-drive side, should I assume the remaining drive side
    ones are ready to fail and replace them all?

    No! Save those spokes. The ones that didn't break and don't break on the next build with stress
    relieving are probably lifers, well set in their places. Next time work on the spoke alignment after
    initial tensioning. Push those outbound spokes down against the flange.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  11. [email hidden] wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Carl Fogel said:
    Quoted message said:

    Your wheel would surely have broken its spoke in the next quarter mile had you continued
    because it was already cracked so far through that it was like a piece of soft material
    stretching the last strand still connected so it could snap.

    draco.acs.uci.edu8c.1.html

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    There's more about this in "the Bicycle Wheel".

    Quoted message said:

    Do elbow-spokes really break equally well at either end?

    Quoted message said:

    If so, are there bad practices that might favor breaking far more spokes at the hub?

    That depends more on the flange size, spoke pattern and skill of the wheel builder. The point is
    that a spoke nipple not entirely in-line with the spoke line causes a bend and this bend is
    concentrated in the first thread. Without a hefty stress reliving stretch, this will be a high
    stress point. If the wheel is loosely built, it may not causer a break. The reason for carrying
    spare spokes when touring WITH nipples threaded on is that when a spoke breaks off in the thread
    the nipple is usually useless.

    Quoted message said:

    I ask because my spokes have always broken at the hub, never at the nipple. They're almost
    always the rear drive-side spokes with more tension, just as you predict, but even my rare front
    spoke breaks at the hub, not the nipple.

    That's usually for lack of "improving the spoke line" and insufficient stress relief.

    Quoted message said:

    I have an embarrassing suspicion that a really badly matched derailleur sometimes rattled
    against the rear drive-side spokes, closer to the hub than the rim.

    These are fatigue failures unless you can see cuts in the spoke. I can't imagine an aluminum
    derailleur cutting a spoke.

    Quoted message said:

    Incidentally, where exactly would you expect spokes to break at the hub? Out in the open and
    across the main shaft? At 45 degrees in the elbow? Or all the way around the bend, just short of
    the flared spoke-end?

    Most often right in the bend, but then I have seen them break elsewhere, usually from having been
    bent by some external force. Gouged spokes from a dropped chain often last a long time even with
    gouges in them if they weren't bent. This shows that it is not tension that causes failures, but
    bending (forming) stresses.

    Quoted message said:

    I have a vague notion that my spokes usually crack just before the flared end, leaving a spoke
    with a jagged elbow and a button still sitting flush in the hub-hole that I have to knock out.

    You should get over that syndrome. Build some good wheels with good components with 36 spokes.
    Mine have lasted about 25 years with rim replacements now and then.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

    Dear Jobst,

    Prompted by some private email, I rummaged through my workbench and found half a dozen broken drive-
    side spokes. (I used to save them to make crude tools.)

    Under a magnifier, all six appear to have broken in the same fashion, which was not at all what I
    expected. (Even spokes have little trouble outwitting me.)

    The crack in each case appears to have started just below the flared end of the spoke on the outer
    (not inner) curve, judging by the progression from smooth surface to increasingly rough surface on
    the break. Here's a crude ASCII diagram, with the spoke standing on its threaded end and the broken
    elbow surface facing you:

    crack begins
    from this direction?

    . . . .
    . .
    . .
    . . <--smoother upper half
    . . . .
    |. o . . .| <--rougher lower half
    | . . o . |
    | . . . . |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    | threads |
    | far below |

    Instead of pulling apart beginning on the inner curve of the elbow where it pulls directly agains
    the hub, the spokes seem to have torn their flared ends off with the cracking beginning where the
    outer curve reaches the flared end, as if the flare provided a weak spot and a bit of leverage under
    tension against the far side of the hub-hole.

    I also noticed a large dent at the very end of the outer curve of each elbow. When I looked at
    replacement DT spokes, I saw the same dent, but much smaller. Possibly this is where the
    manufacturing machine pushed to bend the elbow? It seems to have been the weak point on all these
    broken spokes. Here's another ASCII diagram:

    __________
    \ / \....../ ..... <--direction of break <--threads / ( <--dent with
    mushroomed metal / / ___________________________/ / /
    _____________________________/

    As private emails suggested, my broken spokes turn out to have gentler and longer elbow bends,
    possibly to make machine lacing easier--the DT replacement spokes have noticeably sharper and
    shorter elbows. (Well, noticeable when someone kindly points it out and you take a second look.)

    Naturally, I like the idea that my spokes broke so often and in an odd way because they were cheap
    spokes and not as good as DT, but I'm cautious about blaming them.

    Still, I'm wondering whether this explains why spoke-squeezing stress-relief never seemed to help--
    if the dents were too large and the spoke quality was low, I might have been doomed from the start.

    Unfortunately, the broken spoke ends are too small for decent pictures with my primitive equipment,
    but I'll give it another try.

    Carl Fogel

  12. On 20 Jan 2004 16:11:58 -0800, [email hidden] (Carl Fogel)

    Quoted message said:

    Dear Jobst,

    The crack in each case appears to have started just below the flared end of the spoke on the outer
    (not inner) curve, judging by the progression from smooth surface to increasingly rough surface on
    the break. Here's a crude ASCII diagram, with the spoke standing on its threaded end and the broken
    elbow surface facing you:

    crack begins
    from this direction?

    . . . .
    . .
    . .
    . . <--smoother upper half
    . . . .
    |. o . . .| <--rougher lower half
    | . . o . |
    | . . . . |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    | threads |
    | far below |

    Instead of pulling apart beginning on the inner curve of the elbow where it pulls directly agains
    the hub, the spokes seem to have torn their flared ends off with the cracking beginning where the
    outer curve reaches the flared end, as if the flare provided a weak spot and a bit of leverage
    under tension against the far side of the hub-hole.

    I also noticed a large dent at the very end of the outer curve of each elbow. When I looked at
    replacement DT spokes, I saw the same dent, but much smaller. Possibly this is where the
    manufacturing machine pushed to bend the elbow? It seems to have been the weak point on all these
    broken spokes. Here's another ASCII diagram:

    __________
    \ / \....../ ..... <--direction of break <--threads / ( <--dent with
    mushroomed metal / / ___________________________/ / /
    _____________________________/

    As private emails suggested, my broken spokes turn out to have gentler and longer elbow bends,
    possibly to make machine lacing easier--the DT replacement spokes have noticeably sharper and
    shorter elbows. (Well, noticeable when someone kindly points it out and you take a second look.)

    Naturally, I like the idea that my spokes broke so often and in an odd way because they were cheap
    spokes and not as good as DT, but I'm cautious about blaming them.

    Still, I'm wondering whether this explains why spoke-squeezing stress-relief never seemed to help--
    if the dents were too large and the spoke quality was low, I might have been doomed from the start.

    Unfortunately, the broken spoke ends are too small for decent pictures with my primitive equipment,
    but I'll give it another try.

    Carl Fogel

    Dear Carl,

    I'm interested in the details; thanks for sharing them.

    In order to help me understand, could you please have a look at DT's we site at the link below

    dtswiss.comindex.asp

    ...and look at the "Tech.drawing" that comes up when I click on the icon that looks like a small
    drafting board?

    I think, but I'm not sure, you might be saying you didn't have DT spokes originally, and that
    dimension "H" might be greater on the spokes you've broken.

    Thanks!

  13. Carl Fogel said:

    [email hidden] wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Carl Fogel said:

    >Your wheel would surely have broken its spoke in the next quarter mile had you continued because
    >it was already cracked so far through that it was like a piece of soft material stretching the
    >last strand still connected so it could snap.

    draco.acs.uci.edu8c.1.html

    Quoted message said:

    >There's more about this in "the Bicycle Wheel".

    Quoted message said:

    Do elbow-spokes really break equally well at either end?

    Quoted message said:

    If so, are there bad practices that might favor breaking far more spokes at the hub?

    That depends more on the flange size, spoke pattern and skill of the wheel builder. The point is
    that a spoke nipple not entirely in-line with the spoke line causes a bend and this bend is
    concentrated in the first thread. Without a hefty stress reliving stretch, this will be a high
    stress point. If the wheel is loosely built, it may not causer a break. The reason for carrying
    spare spokes when touring WITH nipples threaded on is that when a spoke breaks off in the thread
    the nipple is usually useless.

    Quoted message said:

    I ask because my spokes have always broken at the hub, never at the nipple. They're almost always
    the rear drive-side spokes with more tension, just as you predict, but even my rare front spoke
    breaks at the hub, not the nipple.

    That's usually for lack of "improving the spoke line" and insufficient stress relief.

    Quoted message said:

    I have an embarrassing suspicion that a really badly matched derailleur sometimes rattled against
    the rear drive-side spokes, closer to the hub than the rim.

    These are fatigue failures unless you can see cuts in the spoke. I can't imagine an aluminum
    derailleur cutting a spoke.

    Quoted message said:

    Incidentally, where exactly would you expect spokes to break at the hub? Out in the open and
    across the main shaft? At 45 degrees in the elbow? Or all the way around the bend, just short of
    the flared spoke-end?

    Most often right in the bend, but then I have seen them break elsewhere, usually from having been
    bent by some external force. Gouged spokes from a dropped chain often last a long time even with
    gouges in them if they weren't bent. This shows that it is not tension that causes failures, but
    bending (forming) stresses.

    Quoted message said:

    I have a vague notion that my spokes usually crack just before the flared end, leaving a spoke
    with a jagged elbow and a button still sitting flush in the hub-hole that I have to knock out.

    You should get over that syndrome. Build some good wheels with good components with 36 spokes.
    Mine have lasted about 25 years with rim replacements now and then.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

    Dear Jobst,

    Prompted by some private email, I rummaged through my workbench and found half a dozen broken drive-
    side spokes. (I used to save them to make crude tools.)

    Under a magnifier, all six appear to have broken in the same fashion, which was not at all what I
    expected. (Even spokes have little trouble outwitting me.)

    The crack in each case appears to have started just below the flared end of the spoke on the outer
    (not inner) curve, judging by the progression from smooth surface to increasingly rough surface on
    the break. Here's a crude ASCII diagram, with the spoke standing on its threaded end and the
    broken elbow surface facing you:

    crack begins
    from this direction?

    . . . .
    . .
    . .
    . . <--smoother upper half
    . . . .
    |. o . . .| <--rougher lower half
    | . . o . |
    | . . . . |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    | threads |
    | far below |

    Instead of pulling apart beginning on the inner curve of the elbow where it pulls directly agains
    the hub, the spokes seem to have torn their flared ends off with the cracking beginning where the
    outer curve reaches the flared end, as if the flare provided a weak spot and a bit of leverage
    under tension against the far side of the hub-hole.

    i confess, first time i saw what you describe, i too thought it counter intuitive. but observation
    of many broken spokes has shown that elbow breaks do indeed occur from the inside & the outside.
    proof that spokes are in a complex stress environment, with stress bending inwards, not just
    outwards under tension.

    Quoted message said:


    I also noticed a large dent at the very end of the outer curve of each elbow. When I looked at
    replacement DT spokes, I saw the same dent, but much smaller. Possibly this is where the
    manufacturing machine pushed to bend the elbow? It seems to have been the weak point on all these
    broken spokes. Here's another ASCII diagram:

    __________
    \ / \....../ ..... <--direction of break <--threads / ( <--dent with
    mushroomed metal / / ___________________________/ / /
    _____________________________/

    you observe correct. those dents are from the bending mandrels. on the really cheap spokes, you'll
    also see the outside of the bend has an exaggerated "orange peel" texture. this results from the
    deformation of the metal grains at the surface and provides a /multitude/ of fatigue nucleation
    points. better spokes have a much finer grained material where the orange peel effect is a lot less
    noticable.

    interestingly, sapim spokes, the higher end ones, have a noticably excellent finish on the elbow
    bends and no obvious mandrel marks. perhaps that's why they're brave enough to publish fatigue data
    for their product.

    Quoted message said:


    As private emails suggested, my broken spokes turn out to have gentler and longer elbow bends,
    possibly to make machine lacing easier--the DT replacement spokes have noticeably sharper and
    shorter elbows. (Well, noticeable when someone kindly points it out and you take a second look.)

    Naturally, I like the idea that my spokes broke so often and in an odd way because they were cheap
    spokes and not as good as DT, but I'm cautious about blaming them.

    don't be. if you prepared metallograpy samples of each and examined them under the microscope, you'd
    notice substantial quality differences between the two. one of the first things you figure out as a
    materials undergrad is that microstructure absolutely defines mechanical properties.

    Quoted message said:


    Still, I'm wondering whether this explains why spoke-squeezing stress-relief never seemed to
    help--if the dents were too large and the spoke quality was low, I might have been doomed from
    the start.

    yes. both dt & sapim go to great lengths to emphasize their incoming material q.c. procedures. this
    is not coincidence.

    Quoted message said:


    Unfortunately, the broken spoke ends are too small for decent pictures with my primitive
    equipment, but I'll give it another try.

    Carl Fogel

  14. dianne_1234 <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    (Carl Fogel) said:

    Dear Jobst,

    The crack in each case appears to have started just below the flared end of the spoke on the
    outer (not inner) curve, judging by the progression from smooth surface to increasingly rough
    surface on the break. Here's a crude ASCII diagram, with the spoke standing on its threaded end
    and the broken elbow surface facing you:

    crack begins
    from this direction?

    . . . .
    . .
    . .
    . . <--smoother upper half
    . . . .
    |. o . . .| <--rougher lower half
    | . . o . |
    | . . . . |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    | threads |
    | far below |

    Instead of pulling apart beginning on the inner curve of the elbow where it pulls directly agains
    the hub, the spokes seem to have torn their flared ends off with the cracking beginning where the
    outer curve reaches the flared end, as if the flare provided a weak spot and a bit of leverage
    under tension against the far side of the hub-hole.

    I also noticed a large dent at the very end of the outer curve of each elbow. When I looked at
    replacement DT spokes, I saw the same dent, but much smaller. Possibly this is where the
    manufacturing machine pushed to bend the elbow? It seems to have been the weak point on all these
    broken spokes. Here's another ASCII diagram:

    __________
    \ / \....../ ..... <--direction of break <--threads / ( <--dent with
    mushroomed metal / / ___________________________/ / /
    _____________________________/

    As private emails suggested, my broken spokes turn out to have gentler and longer elbow bends,
    possibly to make machine lacing easier--the DT replacement spokes have noticeably sharper and
    shorter elbows. (Well, noticeable when someone kindly points it out and you take a second look.)

    Naturally, I like the idea that my spokes broke so often and in an odd way because they were
    cheap spokes and not as good as DT, but I'm cautious about blaming them.

    Still, I'm wondering whether this explains why spoke-squeezing stress-relief never seemed to
    help--if the dents were too large and the spoke quality was low, I might have been doomed from
    the start.

    Unfortunately, the broken spoke ends are too small for decent pictures with my primitive
    equipment, but I'll give it another try.

    Carl Fogel

    Dear Carl,

    I'm interested in the details; thanks for sharing them.

    In order to help me understand, could you please have a look at DT's we site at the link below

    dtswiss.comindex.asp

    ...and look at the "Tech.drawing" that comes up when I click on the icon that looks like a small
    drafting board?

    I think, but I'm not sure, you might be saying you didn't have DT spokes originally, and that
    dimension "H" might be greater on the spokes you've broken.

    Thanks!

    Dear Dianne,

    Yes, you're right on both points. Whatever my original spokes were, they seem to be chromed or
    plated. Their elbows are a bit longer than the elbows on my replacement DT spokes in dimension H on
    the drawing at the DT site.

    Their elbow angle is not as sharp as the DT replacement spokes.

    And the dent on the outer curve just before the flared hub end of the spoke is much larger on my
    original spokes than on the replacement DT spokes.

    (I've now been told that this is the mandrel mark left by the bending process.)

    Again, what struck me as odd was that the breaks all seemed to originate at the farthest end of the
    outer curve, right where the dent on the outer curve would meet the beginning of the flare, which is
    the far side of the spoke from where the spoke pulls on the hub.

    This suggests that people who have privately blamed cheap spokes may well be right.

    So far, unfortunately, my cheap camera and 10x magnifier haven't produced anything worth saving as a
    picture, much less posting. I may resort to a crude hand drawing.

    Carl Fogel

  15. jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    [snip]

    Quoted message said:


    you observe correct. those dents are from the bending mandrels. on the really cheap spokes, you'll
    also see the outside of the bend has an exaggerated "orange peel" texture. this results from the
    deformation of the metal grains at the surface and provides a /multitude/ of fatigue nucleation
    points. better spokes have a much finer grained material where the orange peel effect is a lot
    less noticable.

    [snip]

    Dear Jim,

    I looked hopefully, but with only hand magnifiers and a bookworm's eyesight I couldn't really see
    any clear difference between the surface on the shaft and the surface on the outer curve.

    Maybe the outer curve isn't quite as smooth and polished as the long shaft, but the detail is so
    small and the focus changes so much as I try to move along the curve that I'm not sure.

    It could be that this orange-peel effect is smaller than a hand glass can resolve. Or it could be
    that my broken spokes are just not be quite cheap enough to show it.

    It still seems odd that the crack starts not on the inner side of the curve, where it pulls
    against the hub, but on the outer curve. It's as if the spoke is pivoting or bending a tiny bit on
    the flange, but still happy as a clam, and then oops--the farthest side of the flared end bangs
    its head against the flange at the x below and cracks off, with the crack proceeding downward in
    this diagram.

    | |
    | |
    |__|x /\
    _ _ _ _ _/ \
    / |
    / _ _ _ |
    | / __ \ /
    | | | | \/
    | | | |
    | | | |
    | |
    | |
    | |

    Carl Fogel

  16. On 22 Jan 2004 00:43:01 -0800, [email hidden] (Carl Fogel)

    Quoted message said:

    It still seems odd that the crack starts not on the inner side of the curve, where it pulls
    against the hub, but on the outer curve. It's as if the spoke is pivoting or bending a tiny bit on
    the flange, but still happy as a clam, and then oops--the farthest side of the flared end bangs
    its head against the flange at the x below and cracks off, with the crack proceeding downward in
    this diagram.

    | |
    | |
    |__|x /\
    _ _ _ _ _/ \
    / |
    / _ _ _ |
    | / __ \ /
    | | | | \/
    | | | |
    | | | |
    | |
    | |
    | |

    Carl Fogel

    I used to look for trends on whether the spoke broke on the inside or outside of the bend, but the
    ones I've looked at appear to break equally well from either side.

    Your longer spoke elbows might be favoring breaks starting from the outside, but many broken spokes
    got their start at the inside of the bend.

    See Peter Jon White's note about DT's brief try with longer elbows:

    peterwhitecycles.comDTspokes.htm

  17. Carl Fogel wrote: <snip>

    Quoted message said:


    It still seems odd that the crack starts not on the inner side of the curve, where it pulls
    against the hub, but on the outer curve. It's as if the spoke is pivoting or bending a tiny bit on
    the flange, but still happy as a clam, and then oops--the farthest side of the flared end bangs
    its head against the flange at the x below and cracks off, with the crack proceeding downward in
    this diagram.

    | |
    | |
    |__|x /\
    _ _ _ _ _/ \
    / |
    / _ _ _ |
    | / __ \ /
    | | | | \/
    | | | |
    | | | |
    | |
    | |
    | |

    Carl Fogel

    carl, it's yet another well known failure mode.

    usual modes:
    * under the head - as described above
    * at the elbow
    * at chain gouge/impact damage points
    * at the thread

    in this case it appears to be a function of shoulder length and head formation. the former we've
    discussed. for the latter, some spokes have their head formed with a nice radius under it to
    mitigate stress concentration. others don't, and as we know, stress concentration => fatigue.

    any spoke that has a sharp notchy transition between head and spoke, together with low quality
    plated material and excess shoulder length, sounds like it's specially designed for fogel labs to
    get plenty of failure experience and subsequently initiate a quality wheel investment program.

    jb

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