Bill Putnam said:Quoted message said:I recently had to replace a spoke and wasn't able to find the exact length pre-cut at the shop I
went to. However they did have a spoke-cutting device and I had a handful made up. The first
spoke popped during tensioning.
Quoted message said:Quoted message said:Does anyone have experience with the relative durability of spokes produced by the shop device
(Park, I believe)? Aside from these being straight-gauge I'm wondering if there are potential
problems, perhaps due to wear, mis-operation, lubrication of the device, that would make such
spokes more suited to emergency or short-term replacements rather than permanent ones. Would you
consider informing the shop of the failures - perhaps there is something they need to examine?
Quoted message said:The Park spoke cutter and thread roller when used properly produces an entirely satisfactory spoke
end. I have built over a dozen wheels with all spokes cut and threaded on a park machine, as I
often do non-standard combinations of rims and hubs. One rear wheel that I have built up with
these spokes has 15,000 miles on it without needing any attention.
philwood.compage20.htmOpen ↗
I wasn't aware that Park makes a spoke threading machine although Phil Wood Tools does. If the dies
are worn or misaligned, they can make an unreliable thread. In any case, I would return the spokes
to the store and get some new ones, even if it takes some cutting and threading. By the way, if your
spoke length isn't much different than ones in stock, butted (swaged) spokes can be used, DT having
excessively long fat ends on their spokes. Make sure the shop is starting with good quality spokes
(DT, Wheelsmith, or the like).
Quoted message said:Assuming that the spokes failed at the threads, and that essentially the threads on the spokes
were not well formed enough to hold on the nipple, this indicates either worn dies or improper
operation. I would definitely make the shop you went to aware of this problem, as this is not
normal and shouldn't happen.
Whether the treads are any good should be visible under a little magnification. There should be no
sharp valleys in the root of the thread.
Jobst Brandt [email hidden] Palo Alto CA