I have recently had my rear wheel trued and I have a question the drive side spokes are all under tension but the non-drive side are no where near as tight. The wheel is true but I can hear an occasional creak when climbing that sounds like spoke movement.
I have Chorus hubs with Mavic Open Pro rims, I have greased the crossover points of the spokes and put a bit of lube at the rim holes where the spoke nipple is. Any ideas what my problem is or should I just bring it back to my LBS and complain.
It's normal that the non-drive side spokes are under less tension, especially when the rim is not offset (Mavic Open Pros are not offset as far as I know) - this is just how rear wheels work. If the wheel is true and round, check that all the spokes on the drive side have roughly the same tension, and do the same for the spokes on the non-drive side. If the tensions differ a lot, the wheel is poorly built and may not stay true for long - it might even have reduced durability.
Creaks are notorious for being extremely difficult to track down - if you hear creaking when climbing it could be any of the parts of the bike that are under a lot of stress when climbing - most of them, that is.
I have recently had my rear wheel trued and I have a question the drive side spokes are all under tension but the non-drive side are no where near as tight. The wheel is true but I can hear an occasional creak when climbing that sounds like spoke movement.
I have Chorus hubs with Mavic Open Pro rims, I have greased the crossover points of the spokes and put a bit of lube at the rim holes where the spoke nipple is. Any ideas what my problem is or should I just bring it back to my LBS and complain.
Regards
Dave N
Have your LBS show you what the tension is on the drive side. It should be 100 kgf on all drive spokes. As the other poster mentioned, the non-drive side spokes should have equal tension amongst themselves. Make sure the dish is correct... that the rim is exactly centered. Also as the other poster mentioned, noises come from many sources. I recently worked on 4 rear wheels with noise. 2 of them were resolved with spoke tension ballancing and the other 2 were resolved with putting a light coating of grease on the cassette body and properly torquing the cassette lock ring.
Originally posted by mjw_byrne It's normal that the non-drive side spokes are under less tension, especially when the rim is not offset (Mavic Open Pros are not offset as far as I know) - this is just how rear wheels work. If the wheel is true and round, check that all the spokes on the drive side have roughly the same tension, and do the same for the spokes on the non-drive side. If the tensions differ a lot, the wheel is poorly built and may not stay true for long - it might even have reduced durability.
Creaks are notorious for being extremely difficult to track down - if you hear creaking when climbing it could be any of the parts of the bike that are under a lot of stress when climbing - most of them, that is.
Originally posted by BaCardi No. Mavic Open Pros are offset.
I think the "offset" reference was to an asymetrical offset of all spoke holes towards the non-drive side. Asymentrical offset makes the spoke support angles closer to the same and results in the left spokes carrying an increased (but still not equal, with most configurations) amount of tension. Open Pro is not "offset" in that way. However, the spoke holes are staggered from the center line of the rim; the spokes from the left flange go to the holes that are off center to the left ...
Originally posted by daveornee I think the "offset" reference was to an asymetrical offset of all spoke holes towards the non-drive side. Asymentrical offset makes the spoke support angles closer to the same and results in the left spokes carrying an increased (but still not equal, with most configurations) amount of tension. Open Pro is not "offset" in that way. However, the spoke holes are staggered from the center line of the rim; the spokes from the left flange go to the holes that are off center to the left ...
Jobst Brandt's book states that spoke holes that are staggered from the center line of the rim are offset. The post was referring to how the non-drive side spokes were tensioned comparitatively to the drive-side.
Originally posted by BaCardi Jobst Brandt's book states that spoke holes that are staggered from the center line of the rim are offset. The post was referring to how the non-drive side spokes were tensioned comparitatively to the drive-side.
The edition I have of "the Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt (2nd Edition) doesn't seem to have the statement you attribute to Jobst Brandt. However, I don't have it memorized. Please tell me what section or page has this statement. I understand what the responding post was referring to when saying "offset" and was attempting to compare and contrast to your response. I also understand what the original poster was asking about non-drive spoke tension. In a rear wheel with offset rim would have increased non-drive side spoke tension compared to the same wheel (properly built) than a non-offset rim.
OK, when I said "offset", what I meant was a rim in which the spoke holes are all more to the left then the right, in order to make the spoke patterns on the right more similar to the ones on the left, thus equalising spoke tension somewhat. Is that clearer?
Originally posted by mjw_byrne OK, when I said "offset", what I meant was a rim in which the spoke holes are all more to the left then the right, in order to make the spoke patterns on the right more similar to the ones on the left, thus equalising spoke tension somewhat. Is that clearer?
Originally posted by daveornee It was clear to me all the time.
Thanks guys for the opinions.
Had the wheel checked out at my LBS and there was nothing wrong. I did a bit of investigation and discovered the creak was infact comming from my rear brake cable routing. The cable housing was not cut smoothly so as the cables moved when climbing a twisty road the creak would begin.
I recut the cable end and the porblem has gone away.
