spoking a bike rim

Quoted message said:

I am rebuilding a bike rim and i cant figure out how to work the
triple spoke pattern on the rear tire. any advise.

Despite the temptation to answer directly, you'd benefit greatly from
the book "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt. At any decent LBS, $24.95,
or at any library or cheap online used. It will answer your next twenty
questions elegantly and comprehensively.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Quoted message said:

I am rebuilding a bike rim and i cant figure out how to work the
triple spoke pattern on the rear tire. any advise.

Around here, we consult the guru:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

If that doesn't answer your questions, nothing will.

Jeff

JeffWills said:

Quoted message said:

I am rebuilding a bike rim and i cant figure out how to work the
triple spoke pattern on the rear tire. any advise.

Around here, we consult the guru:http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

If that doesn't answer your questions, nothing will.

Good stuff. I've used that guide to walk me through lacing up a few
wheels, as I always forget how to do a basic 3X by the time I need to
build another. The best advice he gives is how to modify a philips
driver bit to fit the spoke nipple by almost grinding off two of the
nubs. Lacing's not the hard part, it's simple and methodical. Hard
part is properly bringing the wheel up to tension while keeping it
true and round.

landotter said:

JeffWills said:

Quoted message said:

I am rebuilding a bike rim and i cant figure out how to work the
triple spoke pattern on the rear tire. any advise.

Around here, we consult the guru:http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

If that doesn't answer your questions, nothing will.

Good stuff. I've used that guide to walk me through lacing up a few
wheels, as I always forget how to do a basic 3X by the time I need to
build another. The best advice he gives is how to modify a philips
driver bit to fit the spoke nipple by almost grinding off two of the
nubs. Lacing's not the hard part, it's simple and methodical. Hard
part is properly bringing the wheel up to tension while keeping it
true and round.

Peter Chisolm (wheel builder guru) says that it is important to get
that wheel round -=BEFORE=- you start truing the side to side
trueness of that wheel. I find that works real well for me.
Also the Park Tool Spoke Tension Guage is a nice little investment to
make sure the tension is equal.

On the Fritz said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> I am rebuilding a bike rim and i cant figure out how to work the
> triple spoke pattern on the rear tire. any advise.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Around here, we consult the guru:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

If that doesn't answer your questions, nothing will.

Well, that may be a bit absolute. There are other sources for this
information that go into more detail than one would like to put on a
web site. That is an advantage of having it in hard copy in hand so
that you can skip what you don't need.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Good stuff. I've used that guide to walk me through lacing up a
few wheels, as I always forget how to do a basic 3X by the time I
need to build another. The best advice he gives is how to modify a
Phillips driver bit to fit the spoke nipple by almost grinding off
two of the nubs.

Get a nipple-driver by all means:

http://www.sapim.be/index.php?st=products&sub=racetools

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Lacing's not the hard part, it's simple and methodical. Hard part
is properly bringing the wheel up to tension while keeping it true
and round.

In "the Bicycle Wheel" all cross patterns are arrived upon from the
same starting point. The cross pattern is decided when the outbound
spokes are connected to the rim, so there is no memorizing a routine
and no special lacing method.

Quoted message said:

Peter Chisholm (wheel builder guru) says that it is important to get
that wheel round -=BEFORE=- you start truing the side to side
trueness of that wheel. I find that works real well for me. Also
the Park Tool Spoke Tension Gauge is a nice little investment to
make sure the tension is equal.

I'm definitely for that approach. A tensiometer only helps if you
know what tension is appropriate. For those who are not tone deaf,
plucking spokes to see who is too loose or too tight is foolproof for
truing.

Jobst Brandt