SS Cranks Question

Ride-A-Lot said:

OK, I have purchased my brand new SS (as in NOT used). I will not
disclose which one until it's put together and presentable. I was
looking at the cranks from my Cdale and they have seen better days,
plus the bashguard says Cannondale. Since this is the first SS I am
actually building up, I do not know about cranks. Are they the same
as regular cranks and BB's? Do I have to get a SS specific crank
set? If not, I would like to use these: http://www.schnauzers.ws/wtf.jpg
since I have them laying around,
they are retro, they are light, and they are in great shape. Can I
just put the 34 (may switch to 32) ring on it and go? The BB is a Ti
syncros which is also in great condition.
TIA

Yes. You can use those cranks, but if you're using a single-speed wheel,
you'll want to make sure the bottom bracket spindle length is correct, so as
to get the best (straightest) chainline. You might need to use a different
length BB.

If your new SS has a cassette freehub body, it likely has spacers that will
allow you to fine-tune the positioning better. See how close you can get
the cogs to the center of the bike... this reduces stress on the frame and
cranks.

You can also put the chainring either to the left or right of the spider for
additional chainline adjustment.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Phil said:

Ride-A-Lot said:

OK, I have purchased my brand new SS (as in NOT used). I will not
disclose which one until it's put together and presentable. I was
looking at the cranks from my Cdale and they have seen better days,
plus the bashguard says Cannondale. Since this is the first SS I am
actually building up, I do not know about cranks. Are they the same
as regular cranks and BB's? Do I have to get a SS specific crank
set? If not, I would like to use these: http://www.schnauzers.ws/wtf.jpg
since I have them laying around,
they are retro, they are light, and they are in great shape. Can I
just put the 34 (may switch to 32) ring on it and go? The BB is a Ti
syncros which is also in great condition.
TIA

Yes. You can use those cranks, but if you're using a single-speed wheel,
you'll want to make sure the bottom bracket spindle length is correct, so as
to get the best (straightest) chainline. You might need to use a different
length BB.

If your new SS has a cassette freehub body, it likely has spacers that will
allow you to fine-tune the positioning better. See how close you can get
the cogs to the center of the bike... this reduces stress on the frame and
cranks.

You can also put the chainring either to the left or right of the spider for
additional chainline adjustment.

Hub is American Classic SS Disc (can't get enough of these babies - use
them on my Racer-X). It has a Shimano spline with a thread on lock ring
(http://tinyurl.com/exzm8). Yikes, this is new to me. I have no
problem with regular wheels, and this is supposed to be simple.

Thanks for the help.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

Ride-A-Lot said:

Phil said:

Ride-A-Lot said:

OK, I have purchased my brand new SS (as in NOT used). I will not
disclose which one until it's put together and presentable. I was
looking at the cranks from my Cdale and they have seen better days,
plus the bashguard says Cannondale. Since this is the first SS I am
actually building up, I do not know about cranks. Are they the same
as regular cranks and BB's? Do I have to get a SS specific crank
set? If not, I would like to use these: http://www.schnauzers.ws/wtf.jpg
since I have them laying around,
they are retro, they are light, and they are in great shape. Can I
just put the 34 (may switch to 32) ring on it and go? The BB is a Ti
syncros which is also in great condition.
TIA

Yes. You can use those cranks, but if you're using a single-speed wheel,
you'll want to make sure the bottom bracket spindle length is correct, so as
to get the best (straightest) chainline. You might need to use a different
length BB.

If your new SS has a cassette freehub body, it likely has spacers that will
allow you to fine-tune the positioning better. See how close you can get
the cogs to the center of the bike... this reduces stress on the frame and
cranks.

You can also put the chainring either to the left or right of the spider for
additional chainline adjustment.

Hub is American Classic SS Disc (can't get enough of these babies - use
them on my Racer-X). It has a Shimano spline with a thread on lock ring
(http://tinyurl.com/exzm8). Yikes, this is new to me. I have no
problem with regular wheels, and this is supposed to be simple.

Thanks for the help.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

All I might add is many of us wierdos use 180mm cranks on our one trick
ponies, rather than the 175's we normally run on a typical mtnbike.
Greater torque, especially considering the time you'll spend out of the
saddle. And they need to be pretty strong.

CDB

Paladin said:

Ride-A-Lot said:

Phil said:

Ride-A-Lot wrote:
> OK, I have purchased my brand new SS (as in NOT used). I will not
> disclose which one until it's put together and presentable. I was
> looking at the cranks from my Cdale and they have seen better days,
> plus the bashguard says Cannondale. Since this is the first SS I am
> actually building up, I do not know about cranks. Are they the same
> as regular cranks and BB's? Do I have to get a SS specific crank
> set? If not, I would like to use these: http://www.schnauzers.ws/wtf.jpg
> since I have them laying around,
> they are retro, they are light, and they are in great shape. Can I
> just put the 34 (may switch to 32) ring on it and go? The BB is a Ti
> syncros which is also in great condition.
> TIA
Yes. You can use those cranks, but if you're using a single-speed wheel,
you'll want to make sure the bottom bracket spindle length is correct, so as
to get the best (straightest) chainline. You might need to use a different
length BB.

If your new SS has a cassette freehub body, it likely has spacers that will
allow you to fine-tune the positioning better. See how close you can get
the cogs to the center of the bike... this reduces stress on the frame and
cranks.

You can also put the chainring either to the left or right of the spider for
additional chainline adjustment.

Hub is American Classic SS Disc (can't get enough of these babies - use
them on my Racer-X). It has a Shimano spline with a thread on lock ring
(http://tinyurl.com/exzm8). Yikes, this is new to me. I have no
problem with regular wheels, and this is supposed to be simple.

Thanks for the help.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

All I might add is many of us wierdos use 180mm cranks on our one trick
ponies, rather than the 175's we normally run on a typical mtnbike.
Greater torque, especially considering the time you'll spend out of the
saddle. And they need to be pretty strong.

CDB

Stupid bike keeps getting more expensive! Those extra cranks I have
(175mm BTW) are missing the little bolts that hold the damn arms on the
spindle. Freaking one-speed will end up costing me more than the Titu$.
I wonder if those bolts are interchangeable with the existing Sh!tmano
cranks I have?

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

"Ride-A-Lot" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

OK, I have purchased my brand new SS (as in NOT used). I will not
disclose which one until it's put together and presentable. I was looking
at the cranks from my Cdale and they have seen better days, plus the
bashguard says Cannondale. Since this is the first SS I am actually
building up, I do not know about cranks. Are they the same as regular
cranks and BB's? Do I have to get a SS specific crank set? If not, I
would like to use these: http://www.schnauzers.ws/wtf.jpg since I have
them laying around, they are retro, they are light, and they are in great
shape. Can I just put the 34 (may switch to 32) ring on it and go? The
BB is a Ti syncros which is also in great condition.

TIA

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

You can go with any cranks but the beauty of a SS bike is in the simplicity
and clean drivetrain. Go with the bling White Industries SS Eno Cranks and
a square taper Phil Wood stainless steel bottom bracket. If you are running
a cassette hub, which is the easiest way to get a perfect chainline, and if
you have some money left over, go for the over the top bling Boone titanium
cog....they are works of art!

It is best not to used ramped cogs and chainrings on a single speed, try to
buy SS/BMX specific chain and gears. You also may want to run a wider chain
like a Sram pc7. If you run a aluminum cassette hub make sure your cogs are
wide like Surly, Boone and King Cogs because you risk damaging the aluminum
cassette body on your hub if you use thin steel cogs.

If you are having trouble finding SS specific parts call Tani at the Path in
Tustin, CA. He keeps a large inventory of SS parts. The website is dated
so you need to call them.

6 weeks and still waiting for my Boone Cog.

http://www.whiteind.com/ENO_web/eno-index.html

http://www.philwood.com/Price%20List/StainlessSteelCrankBottomBracketSets.pdf

http://www.boonerings.com/cr/cr.html

http://www.thepathbikeshop.com/

Dean A. Stepper said:

"Ride-A-Lot" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

OK, I have purchased my brand new SS (as in NOT used). I will not
disclose which one until it's put together and presentable. I was
looking at the cranks from my Cdale and they have seen better days,
plus the bashguard says Cannondale. Since this is the first SS I am
actually building up, I do not know about cranks. Are they the same
as regular cranks and BB's? Do I have to get a SS specific crank
set? If not, I would like to use these: http://www.schnauzers.ws/wtf.jpg
since I have them laying around,
they are retro, they are light, and they are in great shape. Can I
just put the 34 (may switch to 32) ring on it and go? The BB is a
Ti syncros which is also in great condition. TIA

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

You can go with any cranks but the beauty of a SS bike is in the
simplicity and clean drivetrain. Go with the bling White Industries
SS Eno Cranks and a square taper Phil Wood stainless steel bottom
bracket. If you are running a cassette hub, which is the easiest way
to get a perfect chainline, and if you have some money left over, go
for the over the top bling Boone titanium cog....they are works of
art!
It is best not to used ramped cogs and chainrings on a single speed,
try to buy SS/BMX specific chain and gears. You also may want to run
a wider chain like a Sram pc7. If you run a aluminum cassette hub
make sure your cogs are wide like Surly, Boone and King Cogs because
you risk damaging the aluminum cassette body on your hub if you use
thin steel cogs.
If you are having trouble finding SS specific parts call Tani at the
Path in Tustin, CA. He keeps a large inventory of SS parts. The
website is dated so you need to call them.

6 weeks and still waiting for my Boone Cog.

http://www.whiteind.com/ENO_web/eno-index.html

http://www.philwood.com/Price%20List/StainlessSteelCrankBottomBracketSets.pdf

http://www.boonerings.com/cr/cr.html

http://www.thepathbikeshop.com/

I bought my SS cog (alu, unfortunately) from Endless bikes. At a massive
6.35mm wide and a tight fit, they preserve my American Classic 9/10-speed
alum freehub body beautifully.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Ride-A-Lot said:

Phil said:

Ride-A-Lot said:

OK, I have purchased my brand new SS (as in NOT used). I will not
disclose which one until it's put together and presentable. I was
looking at the cranks from my Cdale and they have seen better days,
plus the bashguard says Cannondale. Since this is the first SS I am
actually building up, I do not know about cranks. Are they the same
as regular cranks and BB's? Do I have to get a SS specific crank
set? If not, I would like to use these:
http://www.schnauzers.ws/wtf.jpg since I have them laying around,
they are retro, they are light, and they are in great shape. Can I
just put the 34 (may switch to 32) ring on it and go? The BB is a
Ti syncros which is also in great condition.
TIA

Yes. You can use those cranks, but if you're using a single-speed
wheel, you'll want to make sure the bottom bracket spindle length is
correct, so as to get the best (straightest) chainline. You might
need to use a different length BB.

If your new SS has a cassette freehub body, it likely has spacers
that will allow you to fine-tune the positioning better. See how
close you can get the cogs to the center of the bike... this reduces
stress on the frame and cranks.

You can also put the chainring either to the left or right of the
spider for additional chainline adjustment.

Hub is American Classic SS Disc (can't get enough of these babies -
use them on my Racer-X). It has a Shimano spline with a thread on
lock ring (http://tinyurl.com/exzm8). Yikes, this is new to me. I
have no problem with regular wheels, and this is supposed to be
simple.

I use AmClassic 9/10-speed disc hubs on my SS, with lots of spacers. It IS
simple... it just takes some logical thinking.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Ride-A-Lot said:

Paladin said:

Ride-A-Lot said:

Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
> Ride-A-Lot wrote:
>> OK, I have purchased my brand new SS (as in NOT used). I will not
>> disclose which one until it's put together and presentable. I was
>> looking at the cranks from my Cdale and they have seen better
>> days, plus the bashguard says Cannondale. Since this is the first SS
>> I
>> am actually building up, I do not know about cranks. Are they
>> the same as regular cranks and BB's? Do I have to get a SS specific
>> crank
>> set? If not, I would like to use these:
>> http://www.schnauzers.ws/wtf.jpg since I have them laying around,
>> they are retro, they are light, and they are in great shape. Can
>> I just put the 34 (may switch to 32) ring on it and go? The BB is
>> a Ti syncros which is also in great condition.
>> TIA
> Yes. You can use those cranks, but if you're using a single-speed
> wheel, you'll want to make sure the bottom bracket spindle length
> is correct, so as to get the best (straightest) chainline. You
> might need to use a different length BB.
>
> If your new SS has a cassette freehub body, it likely has spacers
> that will allow you to fine-tune the positioning better. See how
> close you can get the cogs to the center of the bike... this
> reduces stress on the frame and cranks.
>
> You can also put the chainring either to the left or right of the
> spider for additional chainline adjustment.
>
Hub is American Classic SS Disc (can't get enough of these babies -
use them on my Racer-X). It has a Shimano spline with a thread on
lock ring (http://tinyurl.com/exzm8). Yikes, this is new to me. I
have no problem with regular wheels, and this is supposed to be
simple. Thanks for the help.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

All I might add is many of us wierdos use 180mm cranks on our one
trick ponies, rather than the 175's we normally run on a typical
mtnbike. Greater torque, especially considering the time you'll
spend out of the saddle. And they need to be pretty strong.

CDB

Stupid bike keeps getting more expensive! Those extra cranks I have
(175mm BTW) are missing the little bolts that hold the damn arms on

You will also need shorter chainring nuts (or nuts and bolts), or you will
need a set of 5 spacers to take the place of the ring that would have
occupied the other side of the spider if it were a multi-chainring setup.
Otherwise the nut will bottom out on the bolt and you'll have a floppy
chainring. Or a limp chainring. Flaccid, even.

Quoted message said:

the spindle. Freaking one-speed will end up costing me more than the
Titu$. I wonder if those bolts are interchangeable with the existing
Sh!tmano cranks I have?

They likely are. Go ahead and rob them, but they'll be too long and you'll
need the 5 spacers mentioned above. Make sure the spacers are the same
thickness. You don't want your chain climbing off due to a wonky chainring.
Make sure those bolts are tight, too, using the special nut-holder (heh heh)
tool that prevents it from spinning as you're tightening.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

In other words get your chainline right.

"Paladin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Ride-A-Lot said:

Phil said:

Ride-A-Lot wrote:
> OK, I have purchased my brand new SS (as in NOT used). I will not
> disclose which one until it's put together and presentable. I was
> looking at the cranks from my Cdale and they have seen better days,
> plus the bashguard says Cannondale. Since this is the first SS I am
> actually building up, I do not know about cranks. Are they the same
> as regular cranks and BB's? Do I have to get a SS specific crank
> set? If not, I would like to use these:

http://www.schnauzers.ws/wtf.jpg

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> since I have them laying around,
> they are retro, they are light, and they are in great shape. Can I
> just put the 34 (may switch to 32) ring on it and go? The BB is a Ti
> syncros which is also in great condition.
> TIA

Yes. You can use those cranks, but if you're using a single-speed

wheel,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

you'll want to make sure the bottom bracket spindle length is correct,

so as

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

to get the best (straightest) chainline. You might need to use a

different

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

length BB.

If your new SS has a cassette freehub body, it likely has spacers that

will

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

allow you to fine-tune the positioning better. See how close you can

get

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

the cogs to the center of the bike... this reduces stress on the frame

and

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

cranks.

You can also put the chainring either to the left or right of the

spider for

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

additional chainline adjustment.

Hub is American Classic SS Disc (can't get enough of these babies - use
them on my Racer-X). It has a Shimano spline with a thread on lock ring
(http://tinyurl.com/exzm8). Yikes, this is new to me. I have no
problem with regular wheels, and this is supposed to be simple.

Thanks for the help.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

All I might add is many of us wierdos use 180mm cranks on our one trick
ponies, rather than the 175's we normally run on a typical mtnbike.
Greater torque, especially considering the time you'll spend out of the
saddle. And they need to be pretty strong.

If I remember correctly Ride-a-lot isn't the tallest guy in the world so I'm
wondering if 180s might be a bit big for him. A longer crank is very
similair in terms of torque to a lower gear.
I'd say get the crank that matches your body size.

Duncan said:

"Paladin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Ride-A-Lot said:

Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
> Ride-A-Lot wrote:
>> OK, I have purchased my brand new SS (as in NOT used). I will not
>> disclose which one until it's put together and presentable. I was
>> looking at the cranks from my Cdale and they have seen better days,
>> plus the bashguard says Cannondale. Since this is the first SS I am
>> actually building up, I do not know about cranks. Are they the same
>> as regular cranks and BB's? Do I have to get a SS specific crank
>> set? If not, I would like to use these:

http://www.schnauzers.ws/wtf.jpg

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> since I have them laying around,
>> they are retro, they are light, and they are in great shape. Can I
>> just put the 34 (may switch to 32) ring on it and go? The BB is a Ti
>> syncros which is also in great condition.
>> TIA
> Yes. You can use those cranks, but if you're using a single-speed

wheel,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> you'll want to make sure the bottom bracket spindle length is correct,

so as

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> to get the best (straightest) chainline. You might need to use a

different

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> length BB.
>
> If your new SS has a cassette freehub body, it likely has spacers that

will

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> allow you to fine-tune the positioning better. See how close you can

get

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> the cogs to the center of the bike... this reduces stress on the frame

and

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> cranks.
>
> You can also put the chainring either to the left or right of the

spider for

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> additional chainline adjustment.
>
Hub is American Classic SS Disc (can't get enough of these babies - use
them on my Racer-X). It has a Shimano spline with a thread on lock ring
(http://tinyurl.com/exzm8). Yikes, this is new to me. I have no
problem with regular wheels, and this is supposed to be simple.

Thanks for the help.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

All I might add is many of us wierdos use 180mm cranks on our one trick
ponies, rather than the 175's we normally run on a typical mtnbike.
Greater torque, especially considering the time you'll spend out of the
saddle. And they need to be pretty strong.

If I remember correctly Ride-a-lot isn't the tallest guy in the world so I'm
wondering if 180s might be a bit big for him. A longer crank is very
similair in terms of torque to a lower gear.
I'd say get the crank that matches your body size.

Exactly. See my post above. The 180's put me too high up.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

Good but he is short. 170 would do but not a 180. What
short can't take 180.

"Paladin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

All I might add is many of us wierdos use 180mm cranks on our one trick
ponies, rather than the 175's we normally run on a typical mtnbike.
Greater torque, especially considering the time you'll spend out of the
saddle. And they need to be pretty strong.

CDB

I use 175's. I like to spin but I can still get the same amount of torque.

- CA-G

Can-Am Girls Kick Ass!

"Carla A-G" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Paladin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

All I might add is many of us wierdos use 180mm cranks on our one trick
ponies, rather than the 175's we normally run on a typical mtnbike.
Greater torque, especially considering the time you'll spend out of the
saddle. And they need to be pretty strong.

CDB

I use 175's. I like to spin but I can still get the same amount of torque.

- CA-G

Can-Am Girls Kick Ass!

I use 180's and I can not tell the difference between them and 175's. What
is 5mm something like less than a 1/4 inch.

Millimeter=0.0394 inches

Dean A. Stepper said:

"Carla A-G" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Paladin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

All I might add is many of us wierdos use 180mm cranks on our one trick
ponies, rather than the 175's we normally run on a typical mtnbike.
Greater torque, especially considering the time you'll spend out of the
saddle. And they need to be pretty strong.

CDB

I use 175's. I like to spin but I can still get the same amount of torque.

- CA-G

Can-Am Girls Kick Ass!

I use 180's and I can not tell the difference between them and 175's. What
is 5mm something like less than a 1/4 inch.

Millimeter=0.0394 inches

It will be a problem on the bike I purchased, especially due to the odd
geometry to accommodate the frame size. The builder recommended 175's
for me. If I had a shorter inseam, then maybe it would make sense. I
guess that's what I get for being proportionately short.

BTW, due the Eno cranks come with a BB or do I have to spend another
year of my kid's college fund on a BB?

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

Dean A. Stepper said:

"Carla A-G" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Paladin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

All I might add is many of us wierdos use 180mm cranks on our one trick
ponies, rather than the 175's we normally run on a typical mtnbike.
Greater torque, especially considering the time you'll spend out of the
saddle. And they need to be pretty strong.

CDB

I use 175's. I like to spin but I can still get the same amount of torque.

- CA-G

Can-Am Girls Kick Ass!

I use 180's and I can not tell the difference between them and 175's. What
is 5mm something like less than a 1/4 inch.

Millimeter=0.0394 inches

If you ride in rocky areas where pedal clearance is an issue, that 5mm
makes a difference.

JD

Phil said:

You will also need shorter chainring nuts (or nuts and bolts), or you will
need a set of 5 spacers to take the place of the ring that would have
occupied the other side of the spider if it were a multi-chainring setup.
Otherwise the nut will bottom out on the bolt and you'll have a floppy
chainring. Or a limp chainring. Flaccid, even.

Surly used to make a replacement spider called the "Blowerdrive", which
I have on my SS. Fits my old LX cranks, will take just about any
chainring made, and doubles as a beefy chainguard. I wonder why they
quit making them. Unlike the Singleator, they were really great.

Ride-A-Lot can also just go out and buy a SS-specific crankset. Some
are pretty reasonably priced, some pretty spendy. My wife is running a
Truvativ singlespeed crank, and it seems to work fine. I've heard tales
of it breaking on people, but for a light rider it shouldn't be too
much of an issue.

CC

Ride-A-Lot said:

BTW, due the Eno cranks come with a BB or do I have to spend another
year of my kid's college fund on a BB?

Any square taper in the correct shell size and spindle length will do,
like the [censored] UN72.

JD

Corvus Corvax said:

Phil said:

You will also need shorter chainring nuts (or nuts and bolts), or you will
need a set of 5 spacers to take the place of the ring that would have
occupied the other side of the spider if it were a multi-chainring setup.
Otherwise the nut will bottom out on the bolt and you'll have a floppy
chainring. Or a limp chainring. Flaccid, even.

Surly used to make a replacement spider called the "Blowerdrive", which
I have on my SS. Fits my old LX cranks, will take just about any
chainring made, and doubles as a beefy chainguard. I wonder why they
quit making them. Unlike the Singleator, they were really great.

Ride-A-Lot can also just go out and buy a SS-specific crankset. Some
are pretty reasonably priced, some pretty spendy. My wife is running a
Truvativ singlespeed crank, and it seems to work fine. I've heard tales
of it breaking on people, but for a light rider it shouldn't be too
much of an issue.

CC

Yup. Did just that. I got the Truvativ Stylo SS GSX.

The Eno's were just too damn expensive when you throw in a decent BB.

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