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Stem slipping even at proper torque

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Cycling Equipment
Published
14 April 2006
Last activity
17 April 2006
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Bestest Handsander
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  1. I have a new Easton EC90 SLX fork. I'm using the Easton Headset Adjuster
    (bear-trap type)that come with it instead of a top cap and compression
    device. An FSA OS115 stem is mounted on it.

    My problem is that even when tightened to the proper torque, the stem still
    likes to slide up the tube during the first ride or two loosening the whole
    thing. As far as I can see it my options are:

    1. Buy a compression device and use the top cap instead of Easton's device.
    2. Roughen the steerer tube with some sandpaper where the stem attaches.
    3. Over torque the stem bolts.

    I think three my leave me "hincapie'd". I don't know if two will. One looks
    like my best bet even if it will weigh a few grams more.

    Thoughts?

    Thanks!

  2. "Bestest Handsander" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a new Easton EC90 SLX fork. I'm using the Easton Headset Adjuster
    (bear-trap type)that come with it instead of a top cap and compression
    device. An FSA OS115 stem is mounted on it.

    My problem is that even when tightened to the proper torque, the stem


    still

    Quoted message said:

    likes to slide up the tube during the first ride or two loosening the


    whole

    Quoted message said:

    thing.

    Are you sure that's what is happening?

    Greg

  3. "G.T." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Bestest Handsander" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a new Easton EC90 SLX fork. I'm using the Easton Headset Adjuster
    (bear-trap type)that come with it instead of a top cap and compression
    device. An FSA OS115 stem is mounted on it.

    My problem is that even when tightened to the proper torque, the stem


    still

    Quoted message said:

    likes to slide up the tube during the first ride or two loosening the


    whole

    Quoted message said:

    thing.

    Are you sure that's what is happening?

    No, not positive. The amount of distance it needs to move to come loose is
    so small I can't confirm it with me ruler. I don't think the play is coming
    from the crown race, the upper or lower cups( which have been on the bike
    for two years. I make sure the fork is snug against the bottom cup, then
    apply a fair amount of pressure to the stem and tighten the bolts with my
    torque wrench. Then I adjust the bear trap until it is tight (using the
    "pick up the bike, lower the front, turn the bars and make sure they return
    to the middle" method). It doesn't take much.

    I suppose the fork race could be moving, but I can't see that it has.

  4. "Bestest Handsander" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "G.T." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Bestest Handsander" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a new Easton EC90 SLX fork. I'm using the Easton Headset


    Adjuster

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    (bear-trap type)that come with it instead of a top cap and compression
    device. An FSA OS115 stem is mounted on it.

    My problem is that even when tightened to the proper torque, the stem


    still

    Quoted message said:

    likes to slide up the tube during the first ride or two loosening the


    whole

    Quoted message said:

    thing.

    Are you sure that's what is happening?

    No, not positive. The amount of distance it needs to move to come loose is
    so small I can't confirm it with me ruler. I don't think the play is


    coming

    Quoted message said:

    from the crown race, the upper or lower cups( which have been on the bike
    for two years. I make sure the fork is snug against the bottom cup, then
    apply a fair amount of pressure to the stem and tighten the bolts with my
    torque wrench. Then I adjust the bear trap until it is tight (using the
    "pick up the bike, lower the front, turn the bars and make sure they


    return

    Quoted message said:

    to the middle" method). It doesn't take much.

    I'm totally unfamiliar with the bear trap only having used star nuts. Could
    it be something to do with the bear trap? What's the proper torque for the
    stem bolts?

    Greg

  5. "G.T." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Bestest Handsander" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "G.T." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Bestest Handsander" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    > I have a new Easton EC90 SLX fork. I'm using the Easton Headset


    Adjuster

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > (bear-trap type)that come with it instead of a top cap and


    compression

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > device. An FSA OS115 stem is mounted on it.
    >
    > My problem is that even when tightened to the proper torque, the stem
    still
    > likes to slide up the tube during the first ride or two loosening the
    whole
    > thing.

    Are you sure that's what is happening?

    No, not positive. The amount of distance it needs to move to come loose


    is

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    so small I can't confirm it with me ruler. I don't think the play is


    coming

    Quoted message said:

    from the crown race, the upper or lower cups( which have been on the


    bike

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    for two years. I make sure the fork is snug against the bottom cup, then
    apply a fair amount of pressure to the stem and tighten the bolts with


    my

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    torque wrench. Then I adjust the bear trap until it is tight (using the
    "pick up the bike, lower the front, turn the bars and make sure they


    return

    Quoted message said:

    to the middle" method). It doesn't take much.

    If I understand the sequence, you are tightening the stem before you tighten
    the preload (top cap). Tighten the top cap with stem loose. THEN, tighten
    the stem bolts. The stem secures the system. The top cap sets the tension
    but does not maintain it.
    Bill

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I'm totally unfamiliar with the bear trap only having used star nuts.


    Could

    Quoted message said:

    it be something to do with the bear trap? What's the proper torque for


    the

    Quoted message said:

    stem bolts?

    Greg

  6. "Bill" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "G.T." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Bestest Handsander" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "G.T." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    >
    > "Bestest Handsander" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    > news:[email hidden]...
    >> I have a new Easton EC90 SLX fork. I'm using the Easton Headset


    Adjuster

    Quoted message said:

    >> (bear-trap type)that come with it instead of a top cap and


    compression

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >> device. An FSA OS115 stem is mounted on it.
    >>
    >> My problem is that even when tightened to the proper torque, the


    stem

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > still
    >> likes to slide up the tube during the first ride or two loosening


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > whole
    >> thing.
    >
    > Are you sure that's what is happening?

    No, not positive. The amount of distance it needs to move to come


    loose

    Quoted message said:

    is

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    so small I can't confirm it with me ruler. I don't think the play is


    coming

    Quoted message said:

    from the crown race, the upper or lower cups( which have been on the


    bike

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    for two years. I make sure the fork is snug against the bottom cup,


    then

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    apply a fair amount of pressure to the stem and tighten the bolts with


    my

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    torque wrench. Then I adjust the bear trap until it is tight (using


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    "pick up the bike, lower the front, turn the bars and make sure they


    return

    Quoted message said:

    to the middle" method). It doesn't take much.

    If I understand the sequence, you are tightening the stem before you


    tighten

    Quoted message said:

    the preload (top cap). Tighten the top cap with stem loose. THEN, tighten
    the stem bolts. The stem secures the system. The top cap sets the tension
    but does not maintain it.

    He's using a bear trap which goes under the stem. In this case, you tighten
    the stem, and then from looking at Easton's instructions you expand the bear
    trap. Maybe the bear trap is slightly collapsing?

    Greg

  7. "G.T." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If I understand the sequence, you are tightening the stem before you


    tighten

    Quoted message said:

    the preload (top cap). Tighten the top cap with stem loose. THEN, tighten
    the stem bolts. The stem secures the system. The top cap sets the tension
    but does not maintain it.

    He's using a bear trap which goes under the stem. In this case, you
    tighten
    the stem, and then from looking at Easton's instructions you expand the
    bear
    trap. Maybe the bear trap is slightly collapsing?

    That right, Greg. You tighten the stem. Then you expand the bear trap to
    take up the slack. I get it nice and tight, but after 40 miles or so, the
    bear trap is loose the steerer is wobbling in the headtube.

    I picked up a Problem Solver compression plug at the LBS. I'll put it on for
    the weekend and see how it works.

  8. Bestest Handsander said:

    I have a new Easton EC90 SLX fork. I'm using the Easton Headset Adjuster
    (bear-trap type)that come with it instead of a top cap and compression
    device. An FSA OS115 stem is mounted on it.

    My problem is that even when tightened to the proper torque, the stem still
    likes to slide up the tube during the first ride or two loosening the whole
    thing. As far as I can see it my options are:

    1. Buy a compression device and use the top cap instead of Easton's device.
    2. Roughen the steerer tube with some sandpaper where the stem attaches.
    3. Over torque the stem bolts.

    One more option - try if an "anti-lube", designed to increase the
    friction, helps. Such as this one:

    http://www.roseversand.de/output/controller.aspx?cid=156&detail=10&detail2=5480

    Konstantin.

  9. Bestest Handsander said:

    I have a new Easton EC90 SLX fork. I'm using the Easton Headset Adjuster
    (bear-trap type)that come with it instead of a top cap and compression
    device. An FSA OS115 stem is mounted on it.

    My problem is that even when tightened to the proper torque, the stem still
    likes to slide up the tube during the first ride or two loosening the whole
    thing. As far as I can see it my options are:

    1. Buy a compression device and use the top cap instead of Easton's device.
    2. Roughen the steerer tube with some sandpaper where the stem attaches.
    3. Over torque the stem bolts.

    I think three my leave me "hincapie'd". I don't know if two will. One looks
    like my best bet even if it will weigh a few grams more.

    Thoughts?

    Thanks!

    Do number 1, what we do with this daffy adjuster-The Profile one works
    well.

  10. Bestest Handsander said:

    "G.T." <[email hidden]> wrote

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    He's using a bear trap which goes under the stem. In this case, you
    tighten
    the stem, and then from looking at Easton's instructions you expand the
    bear
    trap. Maybe the bear trap is slightly collapsing?

    That right, Greg. You tighten the stem. Then you expand the bear trap to
    take up the slack. I get it nice and tight, but after 40 miles or so, the
    bear trap is loose the steerer is wobbling in the headtube.

    I picked up a Problem Solver compression plug at the LBS. I'll put it on for
    the weekend and see how it works.

    Sorry, but you wasted your money (at least in terms of solving the
    slippage problem). The compression plug / star nut are only there to
    adjust the preload prior to clamping the stem down (which is what
    holds the system all in place after adjustment).

    If a properly adjusted headset/stem comes loose during the ride, it
    has nothing to do with the adjuster, but with the stem.

    My guess - the steer tube and/or stem are distorted and no longer
    round. The whole system relies on a solid mechanical interface
    between the two to prevent slilppage. The only other thing I can
    think of is that perhaps the threads in your stem's clamp are grungy
    enough that the proper torque isn't resulting in enough "sqeeze" - you
    might try cleaning and greasing those threads. A related issue could
    be a stripped stem clamp bolt that's "losing a turn" under the added
    stress of riding?

    Mark Hickey
    Habanero Cycles
    http://www.habcycles.com
    Home of the $795 ti frame

  11. Oddly, I just installed an Easton EC90 SL fork on my bike three days
    ago. (I got the SL because my bike's head tube takes 1" steerers, and
    the SLX is only available in 1.125"😉. Though my fork included
    instructions for both a steerer plug and the beartrap device, only the
    beartrap device was included.

    I agree with Peter--the beartrap device is a little daffy. I don't know
    why Easton switched to it from the plug. The beartrap looks and feels
    fairly kudgy, and I just couldn't bear it (no pun intended). I ended up
    just ordering the Problem Solvers compression plug, and I've been very
    happy with it.

    For what it's worth, I'm using a 3T Less XL stem (120 mm), which
    includes an aluminum 1"-1.125" shim, and I haven't had any problems
    with the stem slipping. The torque spec on the two clamping bolts is 9
    n-m, I believe.

    For what it's worth, I like the plug more than the beartrap from an
    engineering perspective. The plug applies an internal pressure, which
    partially counteracts the external pressure from tightening the stem
    around the steerer. The pressures are almost certainly not equal and
    opposite, but they're a lot closer than they would be without the
    internal plug.

    Let us know if your new plug helps.

    Jason

  12. For those of you curious about the beartrap mechanism, Time uses a part
    that is functionally identical to the Easton part we've been
    discussing:

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=FK4440

    If both Time and Easton are using this part instead of a compression
    plug, I'd love to know what it is.

    Jason

  13. Quoted message said:

    Oddly, I just installed an Easton EC90 SL fork on my bike three days
    ago. (I got the SL because my bike's head tube takes 1" steerers, and
    the SLX is only available in 1.125"😉. Though my fork included
    instructions for both a steerer plug and the beartrap device, only the
    beartrap device was included.

    I agree with Peter--the beartrap device is a little daffy. I don't know
    why Easton switched to it from the plug. The beartrap looks and feels
    fairly kudgy, and I just couldn't bear it (no pun intended). I ended up
    just ordering the Problem Solvers compression plug, and I've been very
    happy with it.

    This "bear trap" device ... I don't see it on Easton's web site. Is it
    this thing on the fork installation pdf?
    http://www.eastonbike.com/downloadable_files/instal_instr/fork-EN.pdf

    Quoted message said:

    For what it's worth, I'm using a 3T Less XL stem (120 mm), which
    includes an aluminum 1"-1.125" shim, and I haven't had any problems
    with the stem slipping. The torque spec on the two clamping bolts is 9
    n-m, I believe.

    For what it's worth, I like the plug more than the beartrap from an
    engineering perspective. The plug applies an internal pressure, which
    partially counteracts the external pressure from tightening the stem
    around the steerer. The pressures are almost certainly not equal and
    opposite, but they're a lot closer than they would be without the
    internal plug.

    Let us know if your new plug helps.

    Jason

    Robin Hubert

  14. On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 07:23:16 -0700, Mark Hickey <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    Bestest Handsander said:

    "G.T." <[email hidden]> wrote

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    He's using a bear trap which goes under the stem. In this case, you
    tighten
    the stem, and then from looking at Easton's instructions you expand the
    bear
    trap. Maybe the bear trap is slightly collapsing?

    That right, Greg. You tighten the stem. Then you expand the bear trap to
    take up the slack. I get it nice and tight, but after 40 miles or so, the
    bear trap is loose the steerer is wobbling in the headtube.

    I picked up a Problem Solver compression plug at the LBS. I'll put it on for
    the weekend and see how it works.

    Sorry, but you wasted your money (at least in terms of solving the
    slippage problem). The compression plug / star nut are only there to
    adjust the preload prior to clamping the stem down (which is what
    holds the system all in place after adjustment).

    Come on, you can do better than that. He's using a system now where *that
    is not the case*. The 'bear trap' is a set of conical washers which go
    *between* the stem and the headset and which expand *after* you've
    tightened the stem. If that's failing, then replacing it with a
    conventional top cap preload adjustment device might work.

    Quoted message said:

    If a properly adjusted headset/stem comes loose during the ride, it
    has nothing to do with the adjuster, but with the stem.

    Except in the case of a beartrap, which is always in the system, and thus
    can be a problem.

    Jasper

  15. Robin Hubert said:
    Quoted message said:

    Oddly, I just installed an Easton EC90 SL fork on my bike three days
    ago. (I got the SL because my bike's head tube takes 1" steerers, and
    the SLX is only available in 1.125"😉. Though my fork included
    instructions for both a steerer plug and the beartrap device, only the
    beartrap device was included.

    I agree with Peter--the beartrap device is a little daffy. I don't know
    why Easton switched to it from the plug. The beartrap looks and feels
    fairly kudgy, and I just couldn't bear it (no pun intended). I ended up
    just ordering the Problem Solvers compression plug, and I've been very
    happy with it.

    This "bear trap" device ... I don't see it on Easton's web site. Is it
    this thing on the fork installation pdf?
    http://www.eastonbike.com/downloadable_files/instal_instr/fork-EN.pdf

    Quoted message said:

    For what it's worth, I'm using a 3T Less XL stem (120 mm), which
    includes an aluminum 1"-1.125" shim, and I haven't had any problems
    with the stem slipping. The torque spec on the two clamping bolts is 9
    n-m, I believe.

    For what it's worth, I like the plug more than the beartrap from an
    engineering perspective. The plug applies an internal pressure, which
    partially counteracts the external pressure from tightening the stem
    around the steerer. The pressures are almost certainly not equal and
    opposite, but they're a lot closer than they would be without the
    internal plug.

    Let us know if your new plug helps.

    Jason

    Robin Hubert

    Having an expansion plug does two things. As mentioned, expands the
    steerer a wee bit and also does hold the stem 'down' a wee bit that may
    help the stem slipping up the steerer. The Easton thing is a widget
    that expands on the outside of the steerer, under the stem, to adjust
    the HS. Poor design, IMO and we replace many with conventional
    expanders.

  16. Qui si parla Campagnolo said:
    Robin Hubert said:
    Quoted message said:

    Oddly, I just installed an Easton EC90 SL fork on my bike three days
    ago. (I got the SL because my bike's head tube takes 1" steerers, and
    the SLX is only available in 1.125"😉. Though my fork included
    instructions for both a steerer plug and the beartrap device, only the
    beartrap device was included.

    I agree with Peter--the beartrap device is a little daffy. I don't know
    why Easton switched to it from the plug. The beartrap looks and feels
    fairly kudgy, and I just couldn't bear it (no pun intended). I ended up
    just ordering the Problem Solvers compression plug, and I've been very
    happy with it.

    This "bear trap" device ... I don't see it on Easton's web site. Is it
    this thing on the fork installation pdf?
    http://www.eastonbike.com/downloadable_files/instal_instr/fork-EN.pdf

    Quoted message said:

    For what it's worth, I'm using a 3T Less XL stem (120 mm), which
    includes an aluminum 1"-1.125" shim, and I haven't had any problems
    with the stem slipping. The torque spec on the two clamping bolts is 9
    n-m, I believe.

    For what it's worth, I like the plug more than the beartrap from an
    engineering perspective. The plug applies an internal pressure, which
    partially counteracts the external pressure from tightening the stem
    around the steerer. The pressures are almost certainly not equal and
    opposite, but they're a lot closer than they would be without the
    internal plug.

    Let us know if your new plug helps.

    Jason

    Robin Hubert

    Having an expansion plug does two things. As mentioned, expands the
    steerer a wee bit and also does hold the stem 'down' a wee bit that may
    help the stem slipping up the steerer. The Easton thing is a widget
    that expands on the outside of the steerer, under the stem, to adjust
    the HS. Poor design, IMO and we replace many with conventional
    expanders.

    The Time and Easton thing looks to be identical to the USE Ring-Go-Star
    device.

    http://www.performancebike.com/shop/Profile.cfm?SKU=18850&item=50-2617&slitrk=search&slisearch=true

  17. Quoted message said:

    For those of you curious about the beartrap mechanism, Time uses a part
    that is functionally identical to the Easton part we've been
    discussing:

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=FK4440

    If both Time and Easton are using this part instead of a compression
    plug, I'd love to know what it is.

    $50!!!??!!! Wow! An compression plug is only $25.

    After looking at a some of the other options it appears that QBP (under
    the Problem Solvers brand) offers a similar device for $22.

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=HD9970

    --
    Greg Estep

  18. "Greg Estep" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    For those of you curious about the beartrap mechanism, Time uses a part
    that is functionally identical to the Easton part we've been
    discussing:

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=FK4440

    If both Time and Easton are using this part instead of a compression
    plug, I'd love to know what it is.

    $50!!!??!!! Wow! An compression plug is only $25.

    After looking at a some of the other options it appears that QBP (under
    the Problem Solvers brand) offers a similar device for $22.

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=HD9970

    --
    Greg Estep

    That's what I got Friday night from my LBS for $15. I installed it and round
    over 100 miles this weekend. The stem is as tight as when I put it on.
    Anyone want an Easton bear trap?

  19. "Robin Hubert" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Oddly, I just installed an Easton EC90 SL fork on my bike three days
    ago. (I got the SL because my bike's head tube takes 1" steerers, and
    the SLX is only available in 1.125"😉. Though my fork included
    instructions for both a steerer plug and the beartrap device, only the
    beartrap device was included.

    I agree with Peter--the beartrap device is a little daffy. I don't know
    why Easton switched to it from the plug. The beartrap looks and feels
    fairly kudgy, and I just couldn't bear it (no pun intended). I ended up
    just ordering the Problem Solvers compression plug, and I've been very
    happy with it.

    This "bear trap" device ... I don't see it on Easton's web site. Is it
    this thing on the fork installation pdf?
    http://www.eastonbike.com/downloadable_files/instal_instr/fork-EN.pdf

    No, that's their standard form install instructions with a compression
    device. Here are the instructions for the bear trap.

    http://www.eastonbike.com/downloadable_files/instal_instr/beartrap-EN.pdf

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