Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

stock vs. custom frames

Started by Mark Heiple · · Last activity · 26 posts · 1,767 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
28 May 2004
Last activity
4 July 2004
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Mark Heiple
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  1. Tim McNamara said:

    Many if not most people are sold bikes that are too small
    for them. Racers may find this a benefit as it allows the
    bars to be lower (although I am skeptical about the real-
    world benefits of this).

    This is true. Besides looking at seat tube and top tube
    lengths, look at head tube lengths too. The top of a head
    tube can vary by a couple of cm, a big difference in
    adjusting stem heights. Some bikes with tall head tubes
    include Lemond and Pinarello, as well as the extended head
    tube options from Waterford, Gunnar, etc.

    Note that Lance Armstrong rides a 58cm Trek, which is pretty
    standard for a 5'10" guy. And his bars don't look
    particularly low.

    Matt O.

  2. "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Tim McNamara wrote:

    Note that Lance Armstrong rides a 58cm Trek, which is
    pretty standard for


    a

    Quoted message said:

    5'10" guy. And his bars don't look particularly low.


    Actually, on a recent "Road to the Tour" (OLN, 9 or 9:30pm
    Thurs, pst), Lance stated that his stem has been getting
    HIGHER the older he gets....

  3. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Tim McNamara said:


    Quoted message said:

    They also noticed that with the long seatpost and stem,
    my bike was flexing really badly, to the point that they
    said if I keep riding it stuff will start breaking.

    Like what? I think this is malarkey.

    I think they were looking at my long handlebar stem and
    saddle rails. My stem sticks up about 5" and my seat is
    shoved all the way back, leaving a lot of unsupported rail.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    I asked if that meant I should avoid a steel frame, they
    said no, a correctly sized steel frame should be much
    stiffer than my current bike.

    The issue is comfort not stiffness.

    Comfort is definitely my first priority. High on my list of
    bikes to try is a 2003 Zurich, since it is the same geometry
    as my current bike.

    I'll also try a 2004, just for comparison, but I've already
    ruled it out since they shortened the wheelbase and it looks
    like it is limited to 23mm tires.

    Quoted message said:

    You might want to do a little more reading about the
    effects of frame material on how a bike rides. The short
    answer is that it has little to no difference. The main
    difference is from frame design, specifically the relation
    of the axle centers to your butt. The more the wheel is
    underneath you, the more the bike will feel harsh; the
    more the wheel is away from you, the more it will feel
    "compliant" Tire size and inflation pessure has an even
    bigger affect on ride quality. If you want to try a great
    ride, slap some Avocet 25's on any bike they'll fit,
    inflated to 100 to 110 psi (actually, any 25 mm tires will
    do but the Avocets are one of the best).

    As far as stiffness, this is another triumph of marketing
    over reality. Any quality modern nike is going to be stiff
    enough. Worry more about the ride quality than the
    stiffness.

    I've read that the materials don't matter here a lot. I do
    agree that design/geometry is a lot more significant, but
    I'm not ready to agree that materials is irrelevant.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    So now I guess I will start test riding bikes, looking
    for a stiff yet compliant ride. I asked about carbon
    bikes, but was told if I didn't like the harsh aluminium
    ride, I probably wouldn't like carbon either.

    More marketing codswallop. A different sales person will
    tell you that carbon finger frames can have the fibers
    oriented to provide the ultimate in stiff but compliant
    bike frames. It's all [censored]. Buy a frame that fits you
    so that you are comfortable all day long on it, and one
    that you like the handling characteristics.

    I will certainly test ride a carbon bike and decide for
    myself if I like it or not.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    The bike shop also does Waterford custom bikes, so if I
    can't find something I like I can always go that route.

    The Gunnars are made by Waterford and are an excellent
    deal. I have a CrossHairs that is very well made and a
    nice bike to ride- I raced 'cross on it, took it to the
    Alps and rode last year's brevets and PBP on it. I'd
    also point you to Kogswell (www.kogswell.com) who are
    turning out very classy lugged steel frames at excellent
    prices- this year's version is particularly well done.
    And also Herons are excellent bikes:
    www.heronbicycles.com. And finally, the titanium option
    from Habanero (www.habcycles.com I think). All four of
    these options (Gunnar, Heron, Kogswell and Habanero) are
    excellent values.

    My first choice would be a stock frame, since it seems like
    a big gamble to build a bike you've never ridden. How do you
    know a custom bike is going to be better than one of the
    many you've tested? Thanks for those suggestions, if I
    decided to go custom I'll look into those also.

    Thanks.

  4. "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Tim McNamara said:

    I've never understood the attraction for short
    chainstays. The bike handles badly in turns, the rear
    tire wears out more quickly, the ride is less
    comfortable, chainline problems are worse, and there's
    no benefit whatsoever. A peculiar trend altogether.

    Indeed.

    I think it started as a track trend, the idea being it
    allowed teammates to draft closer. But then some
    knucklehead decided it was applicable to road racing too.
    Since then, short chainstays have been symbolic of "racy,"
    the shorter the racier. Cannondale even made bikes with
    cantilevered dropouts for awhile, so the seatstays would
    look steeper and the chainstays shorter, for the ultimate
    racy appearance.

    I believe the "Flying Gate" dates from 1936. Designed to
    allow ultra-short chainstays...

    members.aol.comgallery2.htm

    LGF

  5. I'd suggest finding a stock bike that fits and riding it
    awhile before going custom. Unless you have a really odd
    body shape, as a man, you can find a dozen or two dozen
    stock bikes to fit you. I think you really need to know your
    correct bike size before exploring custom frames, unless you
    really have an odd body shape. Just because a frame builder
    knows a lot about welding, brazing, metal work, etc. is no
    guarantee they know anything about fitting people to
    bicycles. You need a well fitting bike to know if the
    numbers a custom builder gives you sound reasonable. Kind of
    a Catch-22.

    AT 6'2" you probably fit a 60-62 cm frame. Give or take a
    little bit. Go find some at the various bike shops in your
    town and take them for extended rides. 20 miles or so. Think
    about how they fit compared to your current bike. After 4
    years of riding you do know something about how a bike fits
    you. At least what does not fit. Use this information when
    selecting a new bike. Try to get the bikes well setup before
    the test ride. Seat height, seat setback, handlebar height,
    stem length, your pedals fitted.

    Aluminum, steel, carbon, titanium, etc. does not matter for
    sizing purposes. You are still figuring out frame size. Once
    you find a bike or two that seems to fit you best, then you
    can use the numbers from these frames to determine which
    other bikes should fit you. Then you can decide what
    material your bike will be made of.

    Mark Heiple <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<markh-
    [email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I've been riding a 2000 Lemond Tourmalet (Reynolds 525
    frame, 57cm) now for about 4 years and been thinking of
    upgrading.

    To make a long story short, when I first got the bike, I
    was ignorant about how it was supposed to fit. I went to
    the wrong bike shop, who was more interested selling bikes
    then making sure I got what I needed. I'm convinced now
    that my frame is too small, so now I'm looking around for
    new one. I've tried installing longer seat posts and
    stems, but I don't think it is quite right.

    I think my first step is to find a bike shop with a fit
    kit, take my bike with me, and figure out if it really is
    a problem.

    If it isn't right, my first choice would be to look at
    another lemond. I really like the way the lemond handles,
    but their bikes have changed. The new frames are
    steel/carbon or ti/carbon, and I hesitant to trust a
    version 1.0 design. Anyone know how they are holding up?

    I also noticed their geometry isn't the same - the
    chainstays (and therefor wheelbase) are shorter. How much
    would this affect the handling? I've tried short, compact
    frames before (Giant) and didn't like it - very squirrely.
    Do the short stays restrict my tire size choice? Right now
    I'm running GP 3000, 25c.

    Lemond still has the old steel frames available as custom
    bikes, but it's so expensive it's worth considering going
    custom (Waterford, Serotta, etc) instead.

    I know I need to go out and start test riding bikes again,
    but how does one test ride a custom bike when there aren't
    any in your area and a frame built to your measurements
    doesn't exist? Seems like an expensive gamble to build a
    bike that you have never ridden.

    I'm a lot more comfortable riding now compared to 4 years
    ago, so maybe I don't need the extra stability of the
    lemond any more.

    I'm 6'2", 225 lbs. I think have long legs & arms, short
    torso for people my size. I don't race and never will. I
    have my handlebars set about 1.5" below my saddle. I don't
    really need nor want an ultra-light weight weenie bike.
    With all he stuff I carry in my saddle bag, my tourmalet
    weighs about 26 lbs.

    Since my old bike is steel and I really like the ride, I'm
    a bit prejudiced toward steel, but I know that as long as
    the bike fits, material isn't supposed to matter. I've
    been on some fat-tubed aluminum bikes that were really
    harsh though. I've never been tried a Ti or carbon bike,
    so I guess I should.

    Thanks.

  6. Tim McNamara wrote: -snip chainstays-

    Quoted message said:

    I've never understood the attraction for short chainstays.
    The bike handles badly in turns, the rear tire wears out
    more quickly, the ride is less comfortable, chainline
    problems are worse, and there's no benefit whatsoever. A
    peculiar trend altogether.

    Agreed. My vote for one of those outlying data points is the
    mid-seventies ultra short Schwinn tandem with curved seat
    tube. With the front changer at 12:00 there is no triple
    changer that will work at all in my experience.

    --
    Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
    April, 1971

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