Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Sudden BB disintegration

Started by Ron Hardin · · Last activity · 9 posts · 294 views

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
23 January 2005
Last activity
25 January 2005
Original author
Ron Hardin
Posts
9
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
294
Views / 30 days
0
Topics

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–9 of 9
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. When your BB starts wobbling, it's time to tighten up the thing slightly. Once.

    When it starts klunking, I have learned not to tighten it, as it will
    disintegrate shortly. Instead, reverse the crank arms by 180 degrees, so
    that an unworn part of the spindle is used. Indeed, this doubles the
    lifetime of the thing.

    My plan was, the next time, to rotate the cranks 90 degrees, and then
    another 180 after that, but the ``next time'' the BB gave one revolution
    of klunk warning and then disintegrated, leaving a walk home. Fortunately,
    unlike most walks home, both tires were fine and so the bike actually
    rolled easily.

    I imagine, but I have not looked, the BB being encased in road salt and ice
    at the moment, that the race has worn completely through. Once a bearing takes
    a pioneering new route, it's all over. The klunk is the bearing making up
    its mind about this possibility.

    So it's time to replace the power train again. The chain indeed is on
    the outer limits of the chainwheel teeth and pops off on a really hard
    start.

    I hate to put on a new power train in road-salt season though.

    Maybe go to the backup Huffy for a couple months, rather than just the few
    days it takes to gather up parts for the thing.
    --
    Ron Hardin
    [email hidden]

    On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

  2. Ron-<< When your BB starts wobbling, it's time to tighten up the thing
    slightly. Once. >><BR><BR>

    Sort of. Cups generally don't loosen if properly installed. If the BB has been
    fine, and then all of the sudden it is loose, probably cuz a BB cup or spindle
    race has gone south, created more play=loose BB.

    I would take the arms off, feel how smooth or not the BB spindle is. If smooth,
    adjust and see, if not, remove and examine.

    All above for cup and ball BBs.

    Peter Chisholm
    Vecchio's Bicicletteria
    1833 Pearl St.
    Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535
    http://www.vecchios.com
    "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

  3. On 23 Jan 2005 15:25:44 GMT, [email hidden] (Qui si parla

    Campagnolo ) may have said:

    Ron-<< When your BB starts wobbling, it's time to tighten up the thing
    slightly. Once. >><BR><BR>

    Sort of. Cups generally don't loosen if properly installed.

    I think he means that the balls and cups had been degraded to the
    point where the surfaces which bear the major load are toasty, making
    the assembly sloppy.

    Quoted message said:

    If the BB has been
    fine, and then all of the sudden it is loose, probably cuz a BB cup or spindle
    race has gone south, created more play=loose BB.

    Yeah, I think that's what he meant.

    Quoted message said:

    I would take the arms off, feel how smooth or not the BB spindle is. If smooth,
    adjust and see, if not, remove and examine.

    All above for cup and ball BBs.

    His plan to rotate 90 degrees and put the load on the least-worn part
    of the BB assembly probably had the best chance of success among the
    possible not-really-fixing-it actions, but in the long run, I think
    he'd be better off with a sealed BB installed with lots of grease.
    Either that, or he needs a place like the one I know not too far from
    here where used bikes of that ilk can be reliably had for $25.
    They're mostly not in bad shape.

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  4. If the CUPS are going, no amount of crank relocation will matter. Duh.

    - -

    "May you have the winds at your back,
    And a really low gear for the hils!"

    Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

    Chris'Z Corner
    http://www.geocities.com/czcorner

  5. On Sun, 23 Jan 2005 13:12:59 -0500, [email hidden] (Chris

    Zacho 'The Wheelman') may have said:

    If the CUPS are going, no amount of crank relocation will matter. Duh.

    Yeah, that's right, he was going to swap the cranks to a different
    clock position on the spindle, but I was thinking in terms of the fact
    that the slop would also put the cup into a different rotational
    position after reassembly, presenting a less toased face in the
    load-bearing areas. It went crunch! first. Probably just as well,
    really.

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  6. Werehatrack said:

    On Sun, 23 Jan 2005 13:12:59 -0500, [email hidden] (Chris

    Zacho 'The Wheelman') may have said:

    If the CUPS are going, no amount of crank relocation will matter. Duh.

    Yeah, that's right, he was going to swap the cranks to a different
    clock position on the spindle, but I was thinking in terms of the fact
    that the slop would also put the cup into a different rotational
    position after reassembly, presenting a less toased face in the
    load-bearing areas. It went crunch! first. Probably just as well,
    really.

    I had a friend in college who ran his junker through untold noises and
    clunking, until the face of one of his BB cups fell off - he had ground
    clear through the cup! Either the threads were garbage or the failure
    had munged them, 'cause we had to use a carbide rod saw to cut the cup
    out. The whole bike wasn't worth the effort, but it was a sentimental
    thing (and a kind of crazy challenge).

    You *can* go too far with avoiding BB maintenance.

    Mark Janeba

  7. In article <[email hidden]>, Ron Hardin

    Quoted message said:

    When your BB starts wobbling, it's time to tighten up the thing slightly.
    Once.

    When it starts klunking, I have learned not to tighten it, as it will
    disintegrate shortly. Instead, reverse the crank arms by 180 degrees, so
    that an unworn part of the spindle is used. Indeed, this doubles the
    lifetime of the thing.

    My plan was, the next time, to rotate the cranks 90 degrees, and then
    another 180 after that, but the ``next time'' the BB gave one revolution
    of klunk warning and then disintegrated, leaving a walk home. Fortunately,
    unlike most walks home, both tires were fine and so the bike actually
    rolled easily.

    I imagine, but I have not looked, the BB being encased in road salt and ice
    at the moment, that the race has worn completely through. Once a bearing
    takes
    a pioneering new route, it's all over. The klunk is the bearing making up
    its mind about this possibility.

    So it's time to replace the power train again. The chain indeed is on
    the outer limits of the chainwheel teeth and pops off on a really hard
    start.

    I hate to put on a new power train in road-salt season though.

    Maybe go to the backup Huffy for a couple months, rather than just the few
    days it takes to gather up parts for the thing.

    Yeah, there's no better time to demolish a BB than during winter (been
    there myself). Why not just pop in a new *cartridge* BB for the time
    being and leave the rest until spring? A Shimano UN-73 or UN-52 can be
    had cheaply; then you won't have to resort to the Huffy!

    Luke

  8. You have a funny idea of the meaning of "sudden".

  9. Bad Idea said:


    You have a funny idea of the meaning of "sudden".

    It ran another 4k miles with the reversed cranks, no wobble
    or klunking. That is, the original klunking is produced by
    the spindle, not the races, and removing the wear on the spindle
    from the pressure that produced it solved the problem.

    This avoids a ``premature'' complete power train replacement and
    accompanying greasy hands and hammered thumbs, more or less doubling
    the lifetime of the whole power train.

    I was just saying, that the second time it wears to the point that
    bearings pioneer new paths and produce warning klunks, the warning
    (in this case, anyway) is just one revolution, not an entire trip
    home where you can do something about it.

    You may like disassembling your bike (you will outgrow it) but I don't,
    particularly. I just ride them, given my choice. If it ain't broke,
    don't fix it.
    --
    Ron Hardin
    [email hidden]

    On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.