Time for replacement?

The cassette looks usable the chainrings look worse for wear and probably time for replacement.

Shimano used Octalink and not ISIS - so if you have the SORA crank it'll be Octastink. Personally, I'd just get some replacement rings. The 52 and 42 will have a 130mm bcd (bolt circle diameter) and the 30 a 74mm bcd. ebay is your friend. If you're going to replace them yourself, a 5 and 8mm allen wrench and a crank extractor (and not a piece of wood and a big hammer) are required tools. Park Tools make nice crank extractors for a reasonable price.

ebay.com150829846949Open ↗

Rings - $22.99

There's nothing wrong with wet lube - but everything wrong with dirty wet lube. Dirty dry lube is equally as bad. The only commonly available lube that I'd recommend that you stay away from is gear oil - the stuff that's meant for manual (stick shift) gear boxes in cars. That stuff will attract (and hold on to) dirt in a manner that seemingly defies all laws of science.

If you use something like 3 in 1, put the stuff on, spin the crank slowly for a while and then do your best to wipe if off the chain with a clean rag.

As for the bent crank - with the chain off the chain rings, spin the crank and see if the chainrings remain a constant distance from the front mech outer cage plate. If you do this on some bikes while riding the force of you pedalling will cause enough flex to make things seem bent. If it is still wobbly, take off the 42 and 52 rings and spin again to see if the crank arms are still straight. Lay the chainrings on a flat surface and check them off the bike. You don't need to take the crank arm off the bike in order to remove the 52 and 42 chainrings.

The Shimano Octalink bottom brackets are sealed units with no adjustment. Failing the possibility there's about 200ft of Amy Winehouse's hair jammed around the BB spindle it's likely that you'll need a new Octalink BB. There's only one length for the triple - again eBay is your friend and again, Park sell a tool for the job. A torque wrench is recommended as is a good read about Sora tech specs found here:

techdocs.shimano.comblevel.jsp;jsessionid=jfRSPvFZJKMGqd1q61JvZR3T56JmGVskWtBL7HL4q84WDypvVby4! 713321692Open ↗

... and general Shimano tech stuff found here:

bike.shimano.comtech tips.htmlOpen ↗

Failing the possibility there's about 200ft of Amy Winehouse's hair jammed around the BB spindle it's likely that you'll need a new Octalink BB.

I'm not gonna do a rebuild, I said No!, No!, No!

OP, you Know you want a new bike! You know you need a new bike! You KNOW what you got to do!

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by CAMPYBOB [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

OP, you Know you want a new bike! You know you need a new bike! You KNOW what you got to do!

Yep, I agree. You need to get something nice that's decked out with a Shimano Ultegra groupset. [IMG]/img/vbsmilies/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG]

Stay away from that Campagbologna garbage. [IMG]/img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG]

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by garyspecialized [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

I'm having a problem finding replacements for the crank (175mm isis set up), and all i can find is 'two piece' cranks online or at shops. if its looking like a replacement of cassette, crankset, bottom bracket and chain. is it worth it for a 1000$ bike? or just go find some cheap cranks that fit the isis and get riding.

Without seeing the actual crankset or BB, I'm not sure why it can't be an ISIS crankset ... particularly since Shimano Octalink probably hasn't been used as OEM for many years except in some possible rare instances.

Regardless, for under $100, you can replace both the BB & crankset with a new set if you just go to eBay and look around ...

• the MegaExo or Hollowtech-II BBs are certainly ubiquitous & easy to source AND (depending on the BB shell's threads) the BB can be pretty easy to install without tools in some-but-not-all instances ...
  
• IMO, there is no reason not to replace your current crankset with a "two piece" crankset
  

BTW. Based on the high level of wear on your Granny, if you choose to replace the Cassette then you may want to choose one which has a larger last cog ...

And/Or, consider a steel Granny.

Well Alf, given that the chain rings say Shimano on them and the product specs say Octalink I'd say there was a slight clue as to what's on the bike... ... Then again we could have had Alf mk2 out there grinding down ISIS bottom brackets and using endless tubes of JB Weld to get a FSA crank (retro fitted with the original Shimano rings mind you) working on his bike. The Specialized Secteur Sport 2011 Road Bike featuring a lightweight A1 Premium Aluminium double butted frame with integrated headset, which is stiff but compliant with a comfortable, efficient geometry. The adjustable oversized alloy stem offers strength and versatile positioning, whilst the shallow drop handlebars give a more comfortable hand position. Frame: Specialized A1 Premium aluminium, fully manipulated tubing, smooth weld compact design, integrated headset, rack eyelets Fork: Specialized FACT carbon legs, alloy crown and steerer, Zertz inserts Front Derailleur: Shimano Sora Rear Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra Number of Gears: 27 Shifters: Shimano Sora STI Chainset: Shimano Sora Chainrings: 50 x 39 x 30T Bottom Bracket: Shimano BB-ES25, Octalink spline, cartridge bearing, 68mm x 118mm Cassette: Shimano HG-50, 9-speed, 12-25 http://m.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/secteur-sport-2011-road-bike-ec025005

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by swampy1970 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

Well Alf, given that the chain rings say Shimano on them and the product specs say Octalink I'd say there was a slight clue as to what's on the bike...

An EXCELLENT CLUE, indeed!!

Oops ... My bad ... mea culpa ...

Chalk it up to apparently very poor eyesight.

BTW. Someday, maybe not today & maybe not tomorrow, but someday you will find occasion to use JB WELD and then wish you had done so sooner than that future moment in time ...

[CENTER] So it is said, so it is written.[/CENTER]

BTW2. If you think back, you might recall that FSA made "Gossamer" cranks with both Campagnolo Square Taper (for Record/Chorus 102mm BBs) & Shimano Octalink V1 (Dura Ace, Ultegra, 105, XTR) interfaces; so, no need for me to invent-the-wheel as you suggest OTHERWISE it might indeed be something to consider doing just so you could have a reason to shake your head & exclaim "why bother?" when money can certainly resolve the problem more easily ...

... after all, Di2 resolves the problem of "dwell" which is present with Shimano's mechanical shifters![IMG]/img/vbsmilies/smilies/duck.gif[/IMG]

If you still believe that STI has dwell, maybe I need to school you on how to trim outer cables and properly set a bike up. You know, basic stuff... 😉

Di2 is ace because the levers actually feel like they're just brake levers a la 1987 - nice and skinny in a way that no mechanical brifter ever could.

JB weld or loctite liquid metal are ace but they have no place on a bicycle

Quote:
Originally Posted by swampy1970 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

If you still believe that STI has dwell, maybe I need to school you on how to trim outer cables and properly set a bike up. You know, basic stuff... 😉

Your loyalty to Shimano is admirable ...

Undoubtedly, it is due in part to your persistent impression of Campagnolo which apparently dates to 8-speed vintage (and, possibly earlier attempts at indexing) components when you were probably not as adept at setting up your bikes as you currently are ... particularly, if you were using one of Campagnolo's marginal, cogs-stamped-out-from-sheet-metal Cassettes instead of one of their higher end Cassettes.

Perhaps "dwell" isn't the word you want to use for what riders who use Shimano STI Road shifters need to overcome to prevent occasionally balky shifts ...

• the resolution to overcome "dwell" has been documented numerous times where the rider is supposed to un-weight the drivetrain prior to shifting if-and-when the drivetrain is under a load ...
  
• what label do YOU want to give to the underlying phenomena?
  

• as I have stated in the past, I have come to love the fact that Shimano mechanical shifters have "dwell" because Shimano's engineers subsequently developed ramping-and-pinning as a consequence ...
  
• and, the engineering to overcome a legacy-which-may-never-be-abandoned-due-to-hubris continues as we can see in Shimano's most recent asymmetric chains -- apparently, making 'copies' & variations of the SEDIS NARROW chain had finally run its course
  

• ramping, particularly on the cogs, has benefited everyone
  
• of course, Campagnolo was late to fully adopt it because of their hubris where they probably felt that a well tuned drivetrain already functioned smoothly
  
• the apparently deficient ramping on IRD Cassettes (which I reckon must be closer-than-not to the tooth profiling on the cogs of Campagnolo's previous generation Cassettes) is why you previously suggested that the shifting wasn't as smooth as you had experienced with Shimano Cassettes
  
• etc.
  

BTW. I'm glad to see you feign concern about my choice to have MORE cable than not ... it's a very deliberate decision.

Of course, if I didn't trim the cables at all, then the front brake cable would be dragging along the ground & the front derailleur cable would probably be tangled in the rear wheel's spokes sooner-than-later.

I long ago stopped trimming my cables to weight-weenie length ... 2+ inches too long on the brake cable is better than not, IMO.

BESIDES, the excess cable which I choose to leave when I set up my bikes certainly creates less aerodynamic drag than the shift cable housing projecting from the sides of Shimano's earlier iterations of their STI Road shifters ... in retrospect, I guess I can see how a short amount of additional aerodynamic drag might set a Shimano user's hair-on-fire ...

Regardless, if one supposes that 'I' don't know how to set up my bikes THEN that would underscore the mechanical advantage that a mis-matched Campagnolo-Shimano bike must have BECAUSE I will continue to declare that the reviewers who have marveled at how efficiently the Shimano Di2 & Campagnolo EPS shifters function have described the shifting efficiency which I had previously achieved over a decade ago by mating Campagnolo shifters with Shimano rear derailleurs & Cassettes + with a Shimano front derailleur & outer chainring from any era.

• I love Shimano -- excellent components (except for their mechanical Road shifters, of course) & excellent customer service!
  

BTW. Unlike those Campagnolo users who deride Shimano for also making fishing equipment, let me say to those individuals (and, Shimano users/reviewers who may not know) that if one were to simply have looked at a Shimano fishing reel back in the early 80s then they would know that it must certainly have been decreed that the reels were to be THE BENCHMARK for the level of quality which Shimano engineers were supposed to achieve, or surpass, with their line of cycling components ...

And consequently, all cycling components are better.

Quote:

Di2 is ace because the levers actually feel like they're just brake levers a la 1987 - nice and skinny in a way that no mechanical brifter ever could.

Oh, so YOU are amongst the very limited number of people who think that narrow brake lever bodies are a good thing ...

I guess THAT may work if your hands are rarely on the hoods.

BUT, really, your seemingly belated lamentation about the width of integrated brake levers sounds like a latent complaint about Shimano's levers, in general, with the "flying" shift cable housing emerging from the side of the shifters.

Quoted post said:

JB weld or loctite liquid metal are ace but they have no place on a bicycle

Someday, maybe not today & maybe not tomorrow, but someday you will find occasion to use JB WELD and then you will wish you had done so sooner ...[IMG]/img/vbsmilies/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

I like the shimano stuff that I have because it works exceedingly well, requires little to no adjustment and every once in a while when I give the calipers or rear mech a rebuild it's a joy to work on. What is there not to like about that? My preference to use Shimano now has nothing to do with past Campag use. My preference to use Shimano in the past, especially on my road bike was that in 1986, shimano 600ex sis shifted better than any Campag group available including the outgoing super record and the new c-record. That Dura Ace 7400 raised the bar again in terms of braking and shifting didn't factor into it because I could neither afford 7400 or c-record. You don't need to shift a lot or shift spectacularly fast on a TT bike - so Campag was fitted. Thankfully the need to stop very fast (usually) on your typical English TT course so the Campag Delta style Croce brakes sufficed and were picked up for cheap. The one piece of Campag kit that I really did like we're the Shamals - the mid 90's version and yes I had a Record cassette on them... 😉 That mid 90s top of the line Campag shifted just about as good as mid 80s mid-range Shimano is somewhat humorous... I don't have the hands of an NBA star so I prefer standard brake levers to mechanical brifters. That DA7900 has built in ergo adjustments is ace but I would still prefer something as comfy as the old Dura Ace 7400 aero brake levers - which the Di2 gets close to. I do ride a fair amount on the hoods but unlike some folk I don't spend 90% of my time there. If I did I'd chop off the drops - you don't need what you don't use. 😉 My main beef with my 11-32 IRD cassette is that it's noisier that the Ultegra and Dura Ace cassettes. The slightly less than Dura Ace shifting (and I mean ever so slightly when out of the saddle in a steep corner shifting on a 4 tooth jump 28 to 32, a range that the dura ace cassettes don't offer) isn't really a big issue but that the 32 offers a useable bailout gear on long rides is worth the weight, the noise and the occasional slower-than-dura ace shift. Maybe the Sram 11-32 cassette that Bertie used in the Giro may be a better choice. Then again, I haven't found anything that's as quiet or as fast shifting as dura ace. Maybe that's changed in the very latest offerings from the big 3... Don't play the hater. Just because I don't "suffer" your much written about dwell doesn't mean that you have to write another War and Peace epic on the subject. :p JB weld has no place on my bicycle. Period. End of story.

Here we go again.

Gary, after you get your drivetrain replaced--with whatever, I really don't care--make a point not to ride it until things start breaking. If you replace the chain when it's worn (around 2-3000 miles for most of us), you'll find your cassettes will last at least twice as long as a chain, and chainrings will seemingly last indefinitely, if you practice good drivetrain hygiene. I'm still using rings from the early '80s.

If both rings are bent, then it's probably cheaper to just buy a new crank. We're doing that for a customer with similar issues, except his bike's about 10 years older. We're using a Shimano Tiagra 4500 crankset with 4600 outboard bearings. That way we don't have to deal with whether the crank spider is bent, finding the proper length spindle, or how many (or few) miles are left in the bottom bracket. FSA cranks are good, too, but we rarely see the outboard bearings go much farther than 5000 miles.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by swampy1970 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

I like the shimano stuff that I have because it works exceedingly well, requires little to no adjustment and every once in a while when I give the calipers or rear mech a rebuild it's a joy to work on. What is there not to like about that?
My preference to use Shimano now has nothing to do with past Campag use. My preference to use Shimano in the past, especially on my road bike was that in 1986, shimano 600ex sis shifted better than any Campag group available including the outgoing super record and the new c-record. That Dura Ace 7400 raised the bar again in terms of braking and shifting didn't factor into it because I could neither afford 7400 or c-record.
You don't need to shift a lot or shift spectacularly fast on a TT bike - so Campag was fitted. Thankfully the need to stop very fast (usually) on your typical English TT course so the Campag Delta style Croce brakes sufficed and were picked up for cheap.
The one piece of Campag kit that I really did like we're the Shamals - the mid 90's version and yes I had a Record cassette on them... [IMG]/img/vbsmilies/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG] That mid 90s top of the line Campag shifted just about as good as mid 80s mid-range Shimano is somewhat humorous...
I don't have the hands of an NBA star so I prefer standard brake levers to mechanical brifters. That DA7900 has built in ergo adjustments is ace but I would still prefer something as comfy as the old Dura Ace 7400 aero brake levers - which the Di2 gets close to. I do ride a fair amount on the hoods but unlike some folk I don't spend 90% of my time there. If I did I'd chop off the drops - you don't need what you don't use. [IMG]/img/vbsmilies/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG]

I agree that Shimano has been in the vanguard with making indexed shifting viable on bicycles ...

AND, I agree that Campagnolo had some dubious products ...

• fortunately-for-me, I did not buy any of the ones which you opted to try
  
• and, the only late-80s item which Campagnolo produced which I will admit owning are some Monoplaner brake calipers + a belt buckle I stlll find the Monoplaner brake caliper design to be aesthetically pleasing ...
  
• and, mechanically efficient
  
• even some Weinmann copies [versions were sold by Cane Creek a late as ~10 years ago] of the short-lived, mid-80s Campagnolo single pivot brake calipers work well, IMO
  

But, Shimano had some dubious products, too ...

• the difference is that Shimano stops production (kills) bad product ideas if the real world experiece is sub-standard (e.g., the Selecta crank & BB + Biopace chainrings are two obvious examples)
  
• but, sometimes re-works them in subsequent products FYI. in case you don't recall (and, for others), the Selecta crank use a splined spindle & semi-outboard bearings (the apparent bane of the "system"😉
  
• I'm still waiting for those pneumatic shifters to reappear
  

Now, with those remarks out of the way, I am surprised you chose to use bar ends instead of the 8-speed STI shifters which you suggest were so great because there was barely any weight saving unless you were to use a set of MAFAC alloy brake levers instead of Shimano's comparatively porky aero brake levers ... and, the bar ends were surprisingly porky so that the combined weight approached that of a set of STI shifters (in the 450g range as I recall ... and, THAT doesn't count the additional weight of the longer cable & housing ... but, who's counting?).

While I'm not keen on the Campagnolo's V1 hoods, you must have really small hands for you size ...

And, YOU have-been-and-are quite the trooper to have opted for Shimano's STI shifters which strike ME as being slightly larger than Campagnolo's shifters ...

• of course, there are apparently some people who think that the shape of Shimano's STI hoods is better than Campagnolo's regardless of the size
  
  

  Quoted post said:

  Originally Posted by swampy1970 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

  My main beef with my 11-32 IRD cassette is that it's noisier that the Ultegra and Dura Ace cassettes. The slightly less than Dura Ace shifting (and I mean ever so slightly when out of the saddle in a steep corner shifting on a 4 tooth jump 28 to 32, a range that the dura ace cassettes don't offer) isn't really a big issue but that the 32 offers a useable bailout gear on long rides is worth the weight, the noise and the occasional slower-than-dura ace shift. Maybe the Sram 11-32 cassette that Bertie used in the Giro may be a better choice. Then again, I haven't found anything that's as quiet or as fast shifting as dura ace. Maybe that's changed in the very latest offerings from the big 3...
  

  
  As I said before, if the IRD cassette is noiser when shifting, then it is due to the ramping ...
  
  With 9-speed 12-34 XTR Cassettes (also a 4 tooth gap, of course) or 9-speed 11-32 XT & LX Cassettes, there is no noise when shifting (when using Campagnolo shifters, of course, and a Shimano chain ... but, I find it to be true with a SRAM chain, too), so if you were using a Shimano chain then by process of elimination then it must be the profile of the teeth ... possibly, exacerbated by using some non-Shimano chain.
  
  As I have previously suggested, even Campagnolo has belated acknowledged that the profile on the teeth on their cogs can facilitate shifting & we finally see Shimano-like ramping on their 11-speed Cassettes.
  
  

  Quoted post said:

  
  Don't play the hater. Just because I don't "suffer" your much written about dwell doesn't mean that you have to write another War and Peace epic on the subject. :p
  

  
  For the record, why don't you provide a word which YOU find acceptable for the phenomenon which requires a Shimano drivetrain to be unweighted to facilitate shifting when it is under a load?
  
  

  Quoted post said:

  JB weld has no place on my bicycle. Period. End of story.

  
  I'm glad you amended the statement & qualified it by limiting the exclusion to your bicycle because it would seem as though you are not actually familiar with JB WELD ...
  
  Regardless, JB WELD can certainly be used to re-secure loose water bottle bosses, cable guides, etc. on frames where said items were not previously welded to the frame
  
  AND, I would reckon that there is better than 50% probability that JB WELD (or, equivalent) is used to repair CF frames; so, with your declaration on the record I hope you never have a CF frame which needs repair.
  
  unlike a sometimes "finiky" Shimano drivetrain, I find that the combination of Campagnolo shifters + Shimano derailleurs & Cassettes is a set-it-and-forget-it installation ...
  
• excess cable does not adversely affect EITHER the shifting OR the braking, BTW [IMG]/img/vbsmilies/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
  
• on some frames, the fore mentioned items are welded whereas on others items are bonded ...
  
• the water bottle bosses on my mid-80s steel Peugeot were simply pressed/("riveted"😉 into the downtube!
  

BTW. At least you aren't using SRAM components on your Road bikes!