Tire Wear Indicators?

walterptiv said:

I was just given three sets of tires by a "friend". He says that he hasn't ridden them too much so they should be good for a while. Since I don't know where these tires have been I can't use mileage as an indicator of when I should worry about them failing. Does anyone know if these particular tires have wear indicators built in and if so how to read them?

They are: Vittoria Open Pro EVO KS, Michelin Pro Race, and Continential Grand Prix 3000.

TIA

I don't know how you can use mileage as a wear indicator.I judge you looking and feeling how much tread is left.

walterptiv said:

I was just given three sets of tires by a "friend". He says that he hasn't ridden them too much so they should be good for a while. Since I don't know where these tires have been I can't use mileage as an indicator of when I should worry about them failing. Does anyone know if these particular tires have wear indicators built in and if so how to read them?

They are: Vittoria Open Pro EVO KS, Michelin Pro Race, and Continential Grand Prix 3000.

TIA

Tread depth indicators are on car tires to reduce the risk of hydroplaning. Since most bike tires don't have treads to begin with, an indicator isn't needed.

I use the GP 3000s. On the rear, will leave them on until the rubber gets paper thin over the casing and starts to blister. They will have a flat band in the middle at least 1/2 inch wide at that point. It's around 2500-2800 miles for me, YMMV as they say.
You may want to replace them sooner of course.

boudreaux said:

I don't know how you can use mileage as a wear indicator.I judge you looking and feeling how much tread is left.

I usually replace the tires around 3500 miles.

walterptiv said:

I usually replace the tires around 3500 miles.

Maybe yo are throwing good rubbers away?

boudreaux said:

Maybe yo are throwing good rubbers away?

Boudreaux, off-topic, but do you rotate the front tire to the rear to wear out of it?

I'm coming up on my second rear replacement on the same front tire. Want maximum traction on the front, so I'm thinking it's time to put a fresh one on front and send the 5400 mile front tire to the rear so I can wear some tread off it.

Options would be to just suck it up and pop $100 for two new 3000s, or to just leave the front one on "forever" and continue to replace rear tires. Note: I'm a cheapskate...but not crashing is worth a lot to me.

boudreaux said:

Maybe yo are throwing good rubbers away?

But some times it's hard to tell if you are throwing good rubbers away, they might just have a pinhole in them, but a pinhole in a seemingly good rubber can be very expensive and produce unexpected results

dhk said:

Boudreaux, off-topic, but do you rotate the front tire to the rear to wear out of it?

I'm coming up on my second rear replacement on the same front tire. Want maximum traction on the front, so I'm thinking it's time to put a fresh one on front and send the 5400 mile front tire to the rear so I can wear some tread off it.

Options would be to just suck it up and pop $100 for two new 3000s, or to just leave the front one on "forever" and continue to replace rear tires. Note: I'm a cheapskate...but not crashing is worth a lot to me.

Sheldon Brown recommends not rotating them because of the different wear patterns between the front and rear tires. He suggests just buying three tires - one for the front and two for the rear - or something to that affect.

By the way, if you just need some training tires check out Performance Bike. They're having a pretty decent $ale on Conti Ultra 2000s right now ($10 each). Nashbar will price match this item then you can use coupon code CR199 for an additional 10% off. That should cover most of the shipping anyway.

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=4602&subcategory_ID=5420

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=17978&subcategory_ID=5420

dhk said:

On the rear, will leave them on until the rubber gets paper thin over the casing and starts to blister.

When the casing starts to blister, does it make a sound each time you roll over the blister?

walterptiv said:

When the casing starts to blister, does it make a sound each time you roll over the blister?

Blister was probably a poor choice of words. Nothing bulges out; it's just a small hole in the rubber at the thinnest point on the tread. I inspect the tires for cuts and wear when I'm cleaning the bike, so when I find the first tiny hole worn through the center of the tread, it's time to replace the tire.

Doctor Morbius said:

Sheldon Brown recommends not rotating them because of the different wear patterns between the front and rear tires. He suggests just buying three tires - one for the front and two for the rear - or something to that affect.

By the way, if you just need some training tires check out Performance Bike. They're having a pretty decent $ale on Conti Ultra 2000s right now ($10 each). Nashbar will price match this item then you can use coupon code CR199 for an additional 10% off. That should cover most of the shipping anyway.

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=4602&subcategory_ID=5420

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=17978&subcategory_ID=5420

My concern with rotating them isn't so much the wear, but just the age of the front tire (14 months on the bike). Buying three tires is certainly a good way to go, but after two rears, 5400 miles, my front still has little wear showing on it. Think I'll give the rotation a try and see how it works out.

Speaking of aging tires, I rode with a guy over the holidays that came out on 12-15 year old tubes and tires. He flatted the front in the first 10 miles, then 5 miles later the rear tire failed and blewout due to dryrot.

Afraid I'm hooked on the expensive 3000's. I like the great ride, wear, and puncture resistance. I'm a cheapskate, but when I find something that works for me as well as the GP 3000 has, they seem worth the luxury price.

Sheldon Brown simply believes that any new tyre goes on the front and the remaining tyre goes to the rear. This seems a good idea to me.
Your tyre isn't going to blow through a "pinhole". Wearing down the rubber simply leaves the tyre more vulnerable to glass injury to/through the threads.
I replaced my last Pro Race tyre when the threads were starting to peep through in multiple places (they break out all of a sudden). First tyre I have ever worn out without getting a puncture!

Sheldon Brown simply believes that any new tyre goes on the front and the remaining tyre goes to the rear. This seems a good idea to me.
Your tyre isn't going to blow through a "pinhole". Wearing down the rubber simply leaves the tyre more vulnerable to glass injury to/through the threads.
I replaced my last Pro Race tyre when the threads were starting to peep through in multiple places (they break out all of a sudden). First tyre I have ever worn out without getting a puncture!