C
B
cc wrote:
> What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike
adjustments?
Some say 20-250 in-lbs.
This chart will give you some specs for various bicycle components:
<http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/torque.shtml>
so you would want something in this range if these components or
similar are being used.
> What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike
adjustments?
Some say 20-250 in-lbs.
This chart will give you some specs for various bicycle components:
<http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/torque.shtml>
so you would want something in this range if these components or
similar are being used.
S
Shawn
Guest
cc wrote:
> What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike adjustments?
>
>
>
From about 50 inlbs for brake rotors (at least my Avids) to about 50
ftlbs for the fixed cup of a bottom bracket and lots in between.
Google torque wrench on this ng for a recent thread. You may need two
wrenches to cover the range.
FWIW, for most applications I use the "It shouldn't hurt to tighten it."
rule. The way this works is: With a normal sized wrench for the nut or
bolt my hand shouldn't hurt after pushing on the wrench. No dents in
the skin of my palm either (at least after a few seconds). And no extra
long allen wrenches, recipe for a stripped or broken bolt.
Shawn
> What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike adjustments?
>
>
>
From about 50 inlbs for brake rotors (at least my Avids) to about 50
ftlbs for the fixed cup of a bottom bracket and lots in between.
Google torque wrench on this ng for a recent thread. You may need two
wrenches to cover the range.
FWIW, for most applications I use the "It shouldn't hurt to tighten it."
rule. The way this works is: With a normal sized wrench for the nut or
bolt my hand shouldn't hurt after pushing on the wrench. No dents in
the skin of my palm either (at least after a few seconds). And no extra
long allen wrenches, recipe for a stripped or broken bolt.
Shawn
S
S o r n i
Guest
cc wrote:
> What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike adjustments?
How long is your arm?
> What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike adjustments?
How long is your arm?
P
Phil, Squid-in-Training
Guest
Shawn wrote:
> cc wrote:
>> What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike
>> adjustments?
> From about 50 inlbs for brake rotors (at least my Avids) to about 50
> ftlbs for the fixed cup of a bottom bracket and lots in between.
> Google torque wrench on this ng for a recent thread. You may need two
> wrenches to cover the range.
> FWIW, for most applications I use the "It shouldn't hurt to tighten
> it." rule. The way this works is: With a normal sized wrench for
> the nut or bolt my hand shouldn't hurt after pushing on the wrench. No
> dents in the skin of my palm either (at least after a few
> seconds). And no extra long allen wrenches, recipe for a stripped or
> broken bolt.
I would say extra long allen wrenches (2.5mm - 6mm) are a recipe for a
twisted wrench... bolts those sizes never yield, and 8-10mm wrenches torque
down no problem.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
> cc wrote:
>> What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike
>> adjustments?
> From about 50 inlbs for brake rotors (at least my Avids) to about 50
> ftlbs for the fixed cup of a bottom bracket and lots in between.
> Google torque wrench on this ng for a recent thread. You may need two
> wrenches to cover the range.
> FWIW, for most applications I use the "It shouldn't hurt to tighten
> it." rule. The way this works is: With a normal sized wrench for
> the nut or bolt my hand shouldn't hurt after pushing on the wrench. No
> dents in the skin of my palm either (at least after a few
> seconds). And no extra long allen wrenches, recipe for a stripped or
> broken bolt.
I would say extra long allen wrenches (2.5mm - 6mm) are a recipe for a
twisted wrench... bolts those sizes never yield, and 8-10mm wrenches torque
down no problem.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
M
Michael Dart
Guest
cc wrote:
> What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike adjustments?
I have a 20-250 inlb clicker for small stuff and a beam type Craftsman for
the big stuff. Cost me about $90US plus hex/torx bits.
Mike
> What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike adjustments?
I have a 20-250 inlb clicker for small stuff and a beam type Craftsman for
the big stuff. Cost me about $90US plus hex/torx bits.
Mike
S
Shawn
Guest
Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
> Shawn wrote:
>
>>cc wrote:
>>
>>>What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike
>>>adjustments?
>>
>>From about 50 inlbs for brake rotors (at least my Avids) to about 50
>>ftlbs for the fixed cup of a bottom bracket and lots in between.
>>Google torque wrench on this ng for a recent thread. You may need two
>>wrenches to cover the range.
>>FWIW, for most applications I use the "It shouldn't hurt to tighten
>>it." rule. The way this works is: With a normal sized wrench for
>>the nut or bolt my hand shouldn't hurt after pushing on the wrench. No
>>dents in the skin of my palm either (at least after a few
>>seconds). And no extra long allen wrenches, recipe for a stripped or
>>broken bolt.
>
>
> I would say extra long allen wrenches (2.5mm - 6mm) are a recipe for a
> twisted wrench... bolts those sizes never yield, and 8-10mm wrenches torque
> down no problem.
>
Never yield? Never's a long time. I've seen plenty break, right at the
base of the head. And not *all* my fault.
Usually though, what I've seen is that either the bolt head or the
wrench strips. Maybe it's the bolt/wrench tolerance, but to me it seems
like 5mm bolts can snap or strip easily, but 8 mm can handle more torque
than I can give. Go figger.
Shawn
> Shawn wrote:
>
>>cc wrote:
>>
>>>What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike
>>>adjustments?
>>
>>From about 50 inlbs for brake rotors (at least my Avids) to about 50
>>ftlbs for the fixed cup of a bottom bracket and lots in between.
>>Google torque wrench on this ng for a recent thread. You may need two
>>wrenches to cover the range.
>>FWIW, for most applications I use the "It shouldn't hurt to tighten
>>it." rule. The way this works is: With a normal sized wrench for
>>the nut or bolt my hand shouldn't hurt after pushing on the wrench. No
>>dents in the skin of my palm either (at least after a few
>>seconds). And no extra long allen wrenches, recipe for a stripped or
>>broken bolt.
>
>
> I would say extra long allen wrenches (2.5mm - 6mm) are a recipe for a
> twisted wrench... bolts those sizes never yield, and 8-10mm wrenches torque
> down no problem.
>
Never yield? Never's a long time. I've seen plenty break, right at the
base of the head. And not *all* my fault.
Usually though, what I've seen is that either the bolt head or the
wrench strips. Maybe it's the bolt/wrench tolerance, but to me it seems
like 5mm bolts can snap or strip easily, but 8 mm can handle more torque
than I can give. Go figger.
Shawn
S
Shaun aRe
Guest
"cc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike adjustments?
Slack, slack-ish, medium, tight-ish, and snap - HTH, HAVVND.
Shaun aRe
news:[email protected]...
> What's the appropriate range for a torque wrench for bike adjustments?
Slack, slack-ish, medium, tight-ish, and snap - HTH, HAVVND.
Shaun aRe
P
Phil, Squid-in-Training
Guest
>> I would say extra long allen wrenches (2.5mm - 6mm) are a recipe for a
>> twisted wrench... bolts those sizes never yield, and 8-10mm wrenches
>> torque down no problem.
>>
> Never yield? Never's a long time. I've seen plenty break, right at the
> base of the head. And not *all* my fault.
> Usually though, what I've seen is that either the bolt head or the wrench
> strips. Maybe it's the bolt/wrench tolerance, but to me it seems like 5mm
> bolts can snap or strip easily, but 8 mm can handle more torque than I can
> give. Go figger.
It's the effective force at each facet of the wrench. If you give 1Nm of
torque on a 1m wrench, the flats of a 5mm wrench will experience a little
less than 200N at the wrench/bolt interface, whereas the flats of a 8mm
wrench will experience only a little less than 125N. That's a reduction of
almost 40% with only a 3mm size difference.
I've broken cheap 5s that consist of metal bonded together with a seam
running down the middle... a poor excuse for a real tool. Forged tools are
the only way to go.
What kinds of bolt heads have you snapped, and on what specific part?
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
>> twisted wrench... bolts those sizes never yield, and 8-10mm wrenches
>> torque down no problem.
>>
> Never yield? Never's a long time. I've seen plenty break, right at the
> base of the head. And not *all* my fault.
> Usually though, what I've seen is that either the bolt head or the wrench
> strips. Maybe it's the bolt/wrench tolerance, but to me it seems like 5mm
> bolts can snap or strip easily, but 8 mm can handle more torque than I can
> give. Go figger.
It's the effective force at each facet of the wrench. If you give 1Nm of
torque on a 1m wrench, the flats of a 5mm wrench will experience a little
less than 200N at the wrench/bolt interface, whereas the flats of a 8mm
wrench will experience only a little less than 125N. That's a reduction of
almost 40% with only a 3mm size difference.
I've broken cheap 5s that consist of metal bonded together with a seam
running down the middle... a poor excuse for a real tool. Forged tools are
the only way to go.
What kinds of bolt heads have you snapped, and on what specific part?
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
S
Shawn
Guest
Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
>>>I would say extra long allen wrenches (2.5mm - 6mm) are a recipe for a
>>>twisted wrench... bolts those sizes never yield, and 8-10mm wrenches
>>>torque down no problem.
>>>
>>
>>Never yield? Never's a long time. I've seen plenty break, right at the
>>base of the head. And not *all* my fault.
>>Usually though, what I've seen is that either the bolt head or the wrench
>>strips. Maybe it's the bolt/wrench tolerance, but to me it seems like 5mm
>>bolts can snap or strip easily, but 8 mm can handle more torque than I can
>>give. Go figger.
>
>
> It's the effective force at each facet of the wrench. If you give 1Nm of
> torque on a 1m wrench, the flats of a 5mm wrench will experience a little
> less than 200N at the wrench/bolt interface, whereas the flats of a 8mm
> wrench will experience only a little less than 125N. That's a reduction of
> almost 40% with only a 3mm size difference.
That 'splains it then, thanks.
>
> I've broken cheap 5s that consist of metal bonded together with a seam
> running down the middle... a poor excuse for a real tool. Forged tools are
> the only way to go.
>
> What kinds of bolt heads have you snapped, and on what specific part?
>
Brake cable binder bolts (SunTour road as well as cheapy ones in the
shops I've worked in).
Shawn
>>>I would say extra long allen wrenches (2.5mm - 6mm) are a recipe for a
>>>twisted wrench... bolts those sizes never yield, and 8-10mm wrenches
>>>torque down no problem.
>>>
>>
>>Never yield? Never's a long time. I've seen plenty break, right at the
>>base of the head. And not *all* my fault.
>>Usually though, what I've seen is that either the bolt head or the wrench
>>strips. Maybe it's the bolt/wrench tolerance, but to me it seems like 5mm
>>bolts can snap or strip easily, but 8 mm can handle more torque than I can
>>give. Go figger.
>
>
> It's the effective force at each facet of the wrench. If you give 1Nm of
> torque on a 1m wrench, the flats of a 5mm wrench will experience a little
> less than 200N at the wrench/bolt interface, whereas the flats of a 8mm
> wrench will experience only a little less than 125N. That's a reduction of
> almost 40% with only a 3mm size difference.
That 'splains it then, thanks.
>
> I've broken cheap 5s that consist of metal bonded together with a seam
> running down the middle... a poor excuse for a real tool. Forged tools are
> the only way to go.
>
> What kinds of bolt heads have you snapped, and on what specific part?
>
Brake cable binder bolts (SunTour road as well as cheapy ones in the
shops I've worked in).
Shawn
M
Michael Dart
Guest
Shawn wrote:
> Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
>>>> I would say extra long allen wrenches (2.5mm - 6mm) are a recipe
>>>> for a twisted wrench... bolts those sizes never yield, and 8-10mm
>>>> wrenches torque down no problem.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Never yield? Never's a long time. I've seen plenty break, right
>>> at the base of the head. And not *all* my fault.
>>> Usually though, what I've seen is that either the bolt head or the
>>> wrench strips. Maybe it's the bolt/wrench tolerance, but to me it
>>> seems like 5mm bolts can snap or strip easily, but 8 mm can handle
>>> more torque than I can give. Go figger.
>>
>>
>> It's the effective force at each facet of the wrench. If you give
>> 1Nm of torque on a 1m wrench, the flats of a 5mm wrench will
>> experience a little less than 200N at the wrench/bolt interface,
>> whereas the flats of a 8mm wrench will experience only a little less
>> than 125N. That's a reduction of almost 40% with only a 3mm size
>> difference.
>
> That 'splains it then, thanks.
>>
>> I've broken cheap 5s that consist of metal bonded together with a
>> seam running down the middle... a poor excuse for a real tool.
>> Forged tools are the only way to go.
>>
>> What kinds of bolt heads have you snapped, and on what specific part?
>>
> Brake cable binder bolts (SunTour road as well as cheapy ones in the
> shops I've worked in).
>
> Shawn
So when the heck did this place turn into rec.bicycles.tech???!!
Mike
> Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
>>>> I would say extra long allen wrenches (2.5mm - 6mm) are a recipe
>>>> for a twisted wrench... bolts those sizes never yield, and 8-10mm
>>>> wrenches torque down no problem.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Never yield? Never's a long time. I've seen plenty break, right
>>> at the base of the head. And not *all* my fault.
>>> Usually though, what I've seen is that either the bolt head or the
>>> wrench strips. Maybe it's the bolt/wrench tolerance, but to me it
>>> seems like 5mm bolts can snap or strip easily, but 8 mm can handle
>>> more torque than I can give. Go figger.
>>
>>
>> It's the effective force at each facet of the wrench. If you give
>> 1Nm of torque on a 1m wrench, the flats of a 5mm wrench will
>> experience a little less than 200N at the wrench/bolt interface,
>> whereas the flats of a 8mm wrench will experience only a little less
>> than 125N. That's a reduction of almost 40% with only a 3mm size
>> difference.
>
> That 'splains it then, thanks.
>>
>> I've broken cheap 5s that consist of metal bonded together with a
>> seam running down the middle... a poor excuse for a real tool.
>> Forged tools are the only way to go.
>>
>> What kinds of bolt heads have you snapped, and on what specific part?
>>
> Brake cable binder bolts (SunTour road as well as cheapy ones in the
> shops I've worked in).
>
> Shawn
So when the heck did this place turn into rec.bicycles.tech???!!
Mike
