Upgrade rear cassette

On my Trek 1000 I've worn down the chain and the rear cassette and am ready
to replace that. Though I'd checked the chain for stretch a couple months
ago it seemed to suddenly go bad and I was experiencing some 'slack' on the
downstroke of the right foot (or so the wrench tells me). He checked it
again yesterday and said I needed a new chain. He's going to replace the
big ring in the front since that's the one I ride in mostly, and maybe
salvage the rear cassette, but is there an advantage to getting a new one
say the next step up?

It's currently, I think, Sora components. Can I just have the shop put in
Tiagra or is there more to it than that? The deraileur seems to be working
fine. Bike is less than a year old. I'm getting the der cables replaced and
that's about it. I asked about repacking the BB, but he said not necessary.
I rarely ride in the rain but once in a while I get caught out. Any other
one year upgrade tips I should check on since the bike is in the shop? Just
got new tires.

Thanks
Hoffer

On my Trek 1000 I've worn down the chain and the rear cassette and am ready
to replace that. Though I'd checked the chain for stretch a couple months
ago it seemed to suddenly go bad and I was experiencing some 'slack' on the
downstroke of the right foot (or so the wrench tells me). He checked it
again yesterday and said I needed a new chain. He's going to replace the
big ring in the front since that's the one I ride in mostly, and maybe
salvage the rear cassette, but is there an advantage to getting a new one
say the next step up?

It's currently, I think, Sora components. Can I just have the shop put in
Tiagra or is there more to it than that? The deraileur seems to be working
fine. Bike is less than a year old. I'm getting the der cables replaced and
that's about it. I asked about repacking the BB, but he said not necessary.
I rarely ride in the rain but once in a while I get caught out. Any other
one year upgrade tips I should check on since the bike is in the shop? Just
got new tires.

Thanks
Hoffer

Hoffer said:

On my Trek 1000 I've worn down the chain and the rear cassette and am ready to replace that. Though I'd checked the chain for stretch a couple months ago it seemed to suddenly go bad and I was experiencing some 'slack' on the downstroke of the right foot (or so the wrench tells me).

"Slack on the downstroke?" Sounds like Malarkey to me. Is the chain
skipping?

Quoted message said:

He checked it again yesterday and said I needed a new chain. He's going to replace the big ring in the front since that's the one I ride in mostly,

If the bike is less than a year old, you shouldn't need a new
chainring.

Quoted message said:

It's [cassette] currently, I think, Sora components. Can I just have the shop put in Tiagra or is there more to it than that?

As long as it's the same number of cogs. But I would start with just
replacing the chain.

What exactly is the problem you're experiencing? You say the bike is
less than a year old. How many miles are on it?

Art Harris

Hoffer said:

On my Trek 1000 I've worn down the chain and the rear cassette and am ready to replace that. Though I'd checked the chain for stretch a couple months ago it seemed to suddenly go bad and I was experiencing some 'slack' on the downstroke of the right foot (or so the wrench tells me).

"Slack on the downstroke?" Sounds like Malarkey to me. Is the chain
skipping?

Quoted message said:

He checked it again yesterday and said I needed a new chain. He's going to replace the big ring in the front since that's the one I ride in mostly,

If the bike is less than a year old, you shouldn't need a new
chainring.

Quoted message said:

It's [cassette] currently, I think, Sora components. Can I just have the shop put in Tiagra or is there more to it than that?

As long as it's the same number of cogs. But I would start with just
replacing the chain.

What exactly is the problem you're experiencing? You say the bike is
less than a year old. How many miles are on it?

Art Harris

Hoffer said:

On my Trek 1000 I've worn down the chain and the rear cassette and am ready to replace that. Though I'd checked the chain for stretch a couple months ago it seemed to suddenly go bad and I was experiencing some 'slack' on the downstroke of the right foot (or so the wrench tells me).

"Slack on the downstroke?" Sounds like Malarkey to me. Is the chain
skipping?

Quoted message said:

He checked it again yesterday and said I needed a new chain. He's going to replace the big ring in the front since that's the one I ride in mostly,

If the bike is less than a year old, you shouldn't need a new
chainring.

Quoted message said:

It's [cassette] currently, I think, Sora components. Can I just have the shop put in Tiagra or is there more to it than that?

As long as it's the same number of cogs. But I would start with just
replacing the chain.

What exactly is the problem you're experiencing? You say the bike is
less than a year old. How many miles are on it?

Art Harris

Art Harris said:

Hoffer said:

On my Trek 1000 I've worn down the chain and the rear cassette and am ready to replace that.
Though I'd checked the chain for stretch a couple months ago it seemed to suddenly go bad
and I was experiencing some 'slack' on the downstroke of the right foot (or so the wrench tells me).

"Slack on the downstroke?" Sounds like Malarkey to me. Is the chain
skipping?

Could be. It just started happening about a week ago. A 'funny feeling' in
the right pedal stroke as though the chain drive is not tight and it plays
'catchup' for a an inch.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

He checked it again yesterday and said I needed a new chain. He's going to replace the big ring
in the front since that's the one I ride in mostly,

If the bike is less than a year old, you shouldn't need a new chainring.

OK, he said if I used the whole rear cassette then it might be OK. If I
tended to use one or two that when the chain aged and got stretched it
tended to make points on the ring most in use and this would cause sloppy
shifting (?).

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Its [cassette] currently, I think, Sora components. Can I just have the shop put in Tiagra or is there more to it than that?

As long as it's the same number of cogs. But I would start with just
replacing the chain.

But would a 'better' component be noticeable? He didn't even mention which
chain to get.

Quoted message said:

What exactly is the problem you're experiencing? You say the bike is
less than a year old. How many miles are on it?

~2K miles. 9 months old.

The wrench said I needed to get the deraileur cables replaced since it
wasn't operating the front der smoothly and he couldn't get it adjusted
anymore. I keep the bike in the house and don't ride it in the pouring
rain. Have been caught out a couple times. I don't do anything other than
oil the chain for maintenence at this point.

He said he replaced his cables every 6-8 months. So I figured 'fall tune
up' as long as the bike is in the shop. He put the bike up on the rack and
immediately said I needed a new chain. The bike had ridden smoothly until
last week. I thought bottom bracket something loose? He said chain. It's a
little catch as the pedal seems to need to catch up to the downward
pedalling force on one side. But that could be an illusion. Left side seems
fine. That made me think something loose on the right, because a stretched
chain would be felt on both sides - a guess I've only been riding a short
time.

The guy seems sincere, but I've experienced many different approaches from
the various wrenches. All seem nice, try to save me money rather than sell
me stuff I don't need.

Thanks for the input!
Hoffer

Quoted message said:

Art Harris

Art Harris said:

Hoffer said:

On my Trek 1000 I've worn down the chain and the rear cassette and am ready to replace that.
Though I'd checked the chain for stretch a couple months ago it seemed to suddenly go bad
and I was experiencing some 'slack' on the downstroke of the right foot (or so the wrench tells me).

"Slack on the downstroke?" Sounds like Malarkey to me. Is the chain
skipping?

Could be. It just started happening about a week ago. A 'funny feeling' in
the right pedal stroke as though the chain drive is not tight and it plays
'catchup' for a an inch.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

He checked it again yesterday and said I needed a new chain. He's going to replace the big ring
in the front since that's the one I ride in mostly,

If the bike is less than a year old, you shouldn't need a new chainring.

OK, he said if I used the whole rear cassette then it might be OK. If I
tended to use one or two that when the chain aged and got stretched it
tended to make points on the ring most in use and this would cause sloppy
shifting (?).

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Its [cassette] currently, I think, Sora components. Can I just have the shop put in Tiagra or is there more to it than that?

As long as it's the same number of cogs. But I would start with just
replacing the chain.

But would a 'better' component be noticeable? He didn't even mention which
chain to get.

Quoted message said:

What exactly is the problem you're experiencing? You say the bike is
less than a year old. How many miles are on it?

~2K miles. 9 months old.

The wrench said I needed to get the deraileur cables replaced since it
wasn't operating the front der smoothly and he couldn't get it adjusted
anymore. I keep the bike in the house and don't ride it in the pouring
rain. Have been caught out a couple times. I don't do anything other than
oil the chain for maintenence at this point.

He said he replaced his cables every 6-8 months. So I figured 'fall tune
up' as long as the bike is in the shop. He put the bike up on the rack and
immediately said I needed a new chain. The bike had ridden smoothly until
last week. I thought bottom bracket something loose? He said chain. It's a
little catch as the pedal seems to need to catch up to the downward
pedalling force on one side. But that could be an illusion. Left side seems
fine. That made me think something loose on the right, because a stretched
chain would be felt on both sides - a guess I've only been riding a short
time.

The guy seems sincere, but I've experienced many different approaches from
the various wrenches. All seem nice, try to save me money rather than sell
me stuff I don't need.

Thanks for the input!
Hoffer

Quoted message said:

Art Harris

Art Harris said:

Hoffer said:

On my Trek 1000 I've worn down the chain and the rear cassette and am ready to replace that.
Though I'd checked the chain for stretch a couple months ago it seemed to suddenly go bad
and I was experiencing some 'slack' on the downstroke of the right foot (or so the wrench tells me).

"Slack on the downstroke?" Sounds like Malarkey to me. Is the chain
skipping?

Could be. It just started happening about a week ago. A 'funny feeling' in
the right pedal stroke as though the chain drive is not tight and it plays
'catchup' for a an inch.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

He checked it again yesterday and said I needed a new chain. He's going to replace the big ring
in the front since that's the one I ride in mostly,

If the bike is less than a year old, you shouldn't need a new chainring.

OK, he said if I used the whole rear cassette then it might be OK. If I
tended to use one or two that when the chain aged and got stretched it
tended to make points on the ring most in use and this would cause sloppy
shifting (?).

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Its [cassette] currently, I think, Sora components. Can I just have the shop put in Tiagra or is there more to it than that?

As long as it's the same number of cogs. But I would start with just
replacing the chain.

But would a 'better' component be noticeable? He didn't even mention which
chain to get.

Quoted message said:

What exactly is the problem you're experiencing? You say the bike is
less than a year old. How many miles are on it?

~2K miles. 9 months old.

The wrench said I needed to get the deraileur cables replaced since it
wasn't operating the front der smoothly and he couldn't get it adjusted
anymore. I keep the bike in the house and don't ride it in the pouring
rain. Have been caught out a couple times. I don't do anything other than
oil the chain for maintenence at this point.

He said he replaced his cables every 6-8 months. So I figured 'fall tune
up' as long as the bike is in the shop. He put the bike up on the rack and
immediately said I needed a new chain. The bike had ridden smoothly until
last week. I thought bottom bracket something loose? He said chain. It's a
little catch as the pedal seems to need to catch up to the downward
pedalling force on one side. But that could be an illusion. Left side seems
fine. That made me think something loose on the right, because a stretched
chain would be felt on both sides - a guess I've only been riding a short
time.

The guy seems sincere, but I've experienced many different approaches from
the various wrenches. All seem nice, try to save me money rather than sell
me stuff I don't need.

Thanks for the input!
Hoffer

Quoted message said:

Art Harris

Hoffer said:

Art Harris said:

Hoffer said:

On my Trek 1000 I've worn down the chain and the rear cassette and am ready to replace that.
Though I'd checked the chain for stretch a couple months ago it seemed to suddenly go bad
and I was experiencing some 'slack' on the downstroke of the right foot (or so the wrench tells me).

"Slack on the downstroke?" Sounds like Malarkey to me. Is the chain
skipping?

Could be. It just started happening about a week ago. A 'funny feeling' in
the right pedal stroke as though the chain drive is not tight and it plays
'catchup' for a an inch.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

He checked it again yesterday and said I needed a new chain. He's going to replace the big ring
in the front since that's the one I ride in mostly,

If the bike is less than a year old, you shouldn't need a new chainring.

OK, he said if I used the whole rear cassette then it might be OK. If I
tended to use one or two that when the chain aged and got stretched it
tended to make points on the ring most in use and this would cause sloppy
shifting (?).

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Its [cassette] currently, I think, Sora components. Can I just have the shop put in Tiagra or is there more to it than that?

As long as it's the same number of cogs. But I would start with just
replacing the chain.

But would a 'better' component be noticeable? He didn't even mention which
chain to get.

Quoted message said:

What exactly is the problem you're experiencing? You say the bike is
less than a year old. How many miles are on it?

~2K miles. 9 months old.

The wrench said I needed to get the deraileur cables replaced since it
wasn't operating the front der smoothly and he couldn't get it adjusted
anymore. I keep the bike in the house and don't ride it in the pouring
rain. Have been caught out a couple times. I don't do anything other than
oil the chain for maintenence at this point.

He said he replaced his cables every 6-8 months. So I figured 'fall tune
up' as long as the bike is in the shop. He put the bike up on the rack and
immediately said I needed a new chain. The bike had ridden smoothly until
last week. I thought bottom bracket something loose? He said chain. It's a
little catch as the pedal seems to need to catch up to the downward
pedalling force on one side. But that could be an illusion. Left side seems
fine. That made me think something loose on the right, because a stretched
chain would be felt on both sides - a guess I've only been riding a short
time.

The guy seems sincere, but I've experienced many different approaches from
the various wrenches. All seem nice, try to save me money rather than sell
me stuff I don't need.

Unless he put a chain length checker on the chain, you cannot just look
at it and tell the chain is history. Should NOT be in 2000 miles. I
suspect something else, like perhaps a freehub body
problem...consistent with the 'catch up' feeling type thing. Also bogus
is the cables and housing for a bike largely ridden in the dry. Also no
need for a new big ring...these last long, far longer than 2000 miles.

Methinks you need a better mechanic, whether this one is sincere or
not.

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the input!
Hoffer

Quoted message said:

Art Harris

Hoffer said:

Art Harris said:

Hoffer said:

On my Trek 1000 I've worn down the chain and the rear cassette and am ready to replace that.
Though I'd checked the chain for stretch a couple months ago it seemed to suddenly go bad
and I was experiencing some 'slack' on the downstroke of the right foot (or so the wrench tells me).

"Slack on the downstroke?" Sounds like Malarkey to me. Is the chain
skipping?

Could be. It just started happening about a week ago. A 'funny feeling' in
the right pedal stroke as though the chain drive is not tight and it plays
'catchup' for a an inch.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

He checked it again yesterday and said I needed a new chain. He's going to replace the big ring
in the front since that's the one I ride in mostly,

If the bike is less than a year old, you shouldn't need a new chainring.

OK, he said if I used the whole rear cassette then it might be OK. If I
tended to use one or two that when the chain aged and got stretched it
tended to make points on the ring most in use and this would cause sloppy
shifting (?).

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Its [cassette] currently, I think, Sora components. Can I just have the shop put in Tiagra or is there more to it than that?

As long as it's the same number of cogs. But I would start with just
replacing the chain.

But would a 'better' component be noticeable? He didn't even mention which
chain to get.

Quoted message said:

What exactly is the problem you're experiencing? You say the bike is
less than a year old. How many miles are on it?

~2K miles. 9 months old.

The wrench said I needed to get the deraileur cables replaced since it
wasn't operating the front der smoothly and he couldn't get it adjusted
anymore. I keep the bike in the house and don't ride it in the pouring
rain. Have been caught out a couple times. I don't do anything other than
oil the chain for maintenence at this point.

He said he replaced his cables every 6-8 months. So I figured 'fall tune
up' as long as the bike is in the shop. He put the bike up on the rack and
immediately said I needed a new chain. The bike had ridden smoothly until
last week. I thought bottom bracket something loose? He said chain. It's a
little catch as the pedal seems to need to catch up to the downward
pedalling force on one side. But that could be an illusion. Left side seems
fine. That made me think something loose on the right, because a stretched
chain would be felt on both sides - a guess I've only been riding a short
time.

The guy seems sincere, but I've experienced many different approaches from
the various wrenches. All seem nice, try to save me money rather than sell
me stuff I don't need.

Unless he put a chain length checker on the chain, you cannot just look
at it and tell the chain is history. Should NOT be in 2000 miles. I
suspect something else, like perhaps a freehub body
problem...consistent with the 'catch up' feeling type thing. Also bogus
is the cables and housing for a bike largely ridden in the dry. Also no
need for a new big ring...these last long, far longer than 2000 miles.

Methinks you need a better mechanic, whether this one is sincere or
not.

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the input!
Hoffer

Quoted message said:

Art Harris

Hoffer said:

Art Harris said:

Hoffer said:

On my Trek 1000 I've worn down the chain and the rear cassette and am ready to replace that.
Though I'd checked the chain for stretch a couple months ago it seemed to suddenly go bad
and I was experiencing some 'slack' on the downstroke of the right foot (or so the wrench tells me).

"Slack on the downstroke?" Sounds like Malarkey to me. Is the chain
skipping?

Could be. It just started happening about a week ago. A 'funny feeling' in
the right pedal stroke as though the chain drive is not tight and it plays
'catchup' for a an inch.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

He checked it again yesterday and said I needed a new chain. He's going to replace the big ring
in the front since that's the one I ride in mostly,

If the bike is less than a year old, you shouldn't need a new chainring.

OK, he said if I used the whole rear cassette then it might be OK. If I
tended to use one or two that when the chain aged and got stretched it
tended to make points on the ring most in use and this would cause sloppy
shifting (?).

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Its [cassette] currently, I think, Sora components. Can I just have the shop put in Tiagra or is there more to it than that?

As long as it's the same number of cogs. But I would start with just
replacing the chain.

But would a 'better' component be noticeable? He didn't even mention which
chain to get.

Quoted message said:

What exactly is the problem you're experiencing? You say the bike is
less than a year old. How many miles are on it?

~2K miles. 9 months old.

The wrench said I needed to get the deraileur cables replaced since it
wasn't operating the front der smoothly and he couldn't get it adjusted
anymore. I keep the bike in the house and don't ride it in the pouring
rain. Have been caught out a couple times. I don't do anything other than
oil the chain for maintenence at this point.

He said he replaced his cables every 6-8 months. So I figured 'fall tune
up' as long as the bike is in the shop. He put the bike up on the rack and
immediately said I needed a new chain. The bike had ridden smoothly until
last week. I thought bottom bracket something loose? He said chain. It's a
little catch as the pedal seems to need to catch up to the downward
pedalling force on one side. But that could be an illusion. Left side seems
fine. That made me think something loose on the right, because a stretched
chain would be felt on both sides - a guess I've only been riding a short
time.

The guy seems sincere, but I've experienced many different approaches from
the various wrenches. All seem nice, try to save me money rather than sell
me stuff I don't need.

Unless he put a chain length checker on the chain, you cannot just look
at it and tell the chain is history. Should NOT be in 2000 miles. I
suspect something else, like perhaps a freehub body
problem...consistent with the 'catch up' feeling type thing. Also bogus
is the cables and housing for a bike largely ridden in the dry. Also no
need for a new big ring...these last long, far longer than 2000 miles.

Methinks you need a better mechanic, whether this one is sincere or
not.

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the input!
Hoffer

Quoted message said:

Art Harris

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Quoted message said:

The guy seems sincere, but I've experienced many different approaches from
the various wrenches. All seem nice, try to save me money rather than sell
me stuff I don't need.

Unless he put a chain length checker on the chain, you cannot just look
at it and tell the chain is history. Should NOT be in 2000 miles. I
suspect something else, like perhaps a freehub body
problem...consistent with the 'catch up' feeling type thing. Also bogus
is the cables and housing for a bike largely ridden in the dry. Also no
need for a new big ring...these last long, far longer than 2000 miles.

Methinks you need a better mechanic, whether this one is sincere or
not.

The other guy who is on vacation told me I needed the $175 buck total tune
up. This guy said 'no-o-o' LOL.

Freehub body problem. I'll ask. Oh the free hub in back. OK I'll ask.
Couldn't be expensive.

He said it was gummy and he couldn't adjust the front der. Must have spent
20min fooling with it.

Also when the LBS set it up on purchase they had to roll the drop bars up
to give me the height I needed, in addition to a longer stem and it
stretched the cables to the max. He said if he put it up any more then
they'd have to replace the cables. So I got a bit of short shrift on the
fit. Too good a deal to kill it over something like that.

Did use a chain length checker. Didn't say how much stretch. Was fine in
July. Didn't say anything about housing.

Thanks Peter,
Hoffer

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Quoted message said:

The guy seems sincere, but I've experienced many different approaches from
the various wrenches. All seem nice, try to save me money rather than sell
me stuff I don't need.

Unless he put a chain length checker on the chain, you cannot just look
at it and tell the chain is history. Should NOT be in 2000 miles. I
suspect something else, like perhaps a freehub body
problem...consistent with the 'catch up' feeling type thing. Also bogus
is the cables and housing for a bike largely ridden in the dry. Also no
need for a new big ring...these last long, far longer than 2000 miles.

Methinks you need a better mechanic, whether this one is sincere or
not.

The other guy who is on vacation told me I needed the $175 buck total tune
up. This guy said 'no-o-o' LOL.

Freehub body problem. I'll ask. Oh the free hub in back. OK I'll ask.
Couldn't be expensive.

He said it was gummy and he couldn't adjust the front der. Must have spent
20min fooling with it.

Also when the LBS set it up on purchase they had to roll the drop bars up
to give me the height I needed, in addition to a longer stem and it
stretched the cables to the max. He said if he put it up any more then
they'd have to replace the cables. So I got a bit of short shrift on the
fit. Too good a deal to kill it over something like that.

Did use a chain length checker. Didn't say how much stretch. Was fine in
July. Didn't say anything about housing.

Thanks Peter,
Hoffer

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Quoted message said:

The guy seems sincere, but I've experienced many different approaches from
the various wrenches. All seem nice, try to save me money rather than sell
me stuff I don't need.

Unless he put a chain length checker on the chain, you cannot just look
at it and tell the chain is history. Should NOT be in 2000 miles. I
suspect something else, like perhaps a freehub body
problem...consistent with the 'catch up' feeling type thing. Also bogus
is the cables and housing for a bike largely ridden in the dry. Also no
need for a new big ring...these last long, far longer than 2000 miles.

Methinks you need a better mechanic, whether this one is sincere or
not.

The other guy who is on vacation told me I needed the $175 buck total tune
up. This guy said 'no-o-o' LOL.

Freehub body problem. I'll ask. Oh the free hub in back. OK I'll ask.
Couldn't be expensive.

He said it was gummy and he couldn't adjust the front der. Must have spent
20min fooling with it.

Also when the LBS set it up on purchase they had to roll the drop bars up
to give me the height I needed, in addition to a longer stem and it
stretched the cables to the max. He said if he put it up any more then
they'd have to replace the cables. So I got a bit of short shrift on the
fit. Too good a deal to kill it over something like that.

Did use a chain length checker. Didn't say how much stretch. Was fine in
July. Didn't say anything about housing.

Thanks Peter,
Hoffer

Hoffer said:

He said it was gummy and he couldn't adjust the front der. Must have spent
20min fooling with it.

I don't know about the rest of your problem, but this problem could be
the result of sports drink dripping down to the bottom of the bike. The
derailer cable gets gummed up where it passes below the bottom bracket.
Wash the bottom of the bike or clean that area with some WD-40 or the
like. Keep any WD-40 away from the bottom bracket and pedal bearings;
wipe off any excess.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

Hoffer said:

He said it was gummy and he couldn't adjust the front der. Must have spent
20min fooling with it.

I don't know about the rest of your problem, but this problem could be
the result of sports drink dripping down to the bottom of the bike. The
derailer cable gets gummed up where it passes below the bottom bracket.
Wash the bottom of the bike or clean that area with some WD-40 or the
like. Keep any WD-40 away from the bottom bracket and pedal bearings;
wipe off any excess.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

Hoffer said:

He said it was gummy and he couldn't adjust the front der. Must have spent
20min fooling with it.

I don't know about the rest of your problem, but this problem could be
the result of sports drink dripping down to the bottom of the bike. The
derailer cable gets gummed up where it passes below the bottom bracket.
Wash the bottom of the bike or clean that area with some WD-40 or the
like. Keep any WD-40 away from the bottom bracket and pedal bearings;
wipe off any excess.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

dvt said:

Hoffer said:

He said it was gummy and he couldn't adjust the front der. Must have spent
20min fooling with it.

I don't know about the rest of your problem, but this problem could be
the result of sports drink dripping down to the bottom of the bike. The
derailer cable gets gummed up where it passes below the bottom bracket.
Wash the bottom of the bike or clean that area with some WD-40 or the
like. Keep any WD-40 away from the bottom bracket and pedal bearings;
wipe off any excess.

Nope nothing ever dripping down bike kept very clean, indoors. No WD-40
ever on it. Some road gum and stuff around the front der, mebee, but
nothing major. But check.

Hoffer

dvt said:

Hoffer said:

He said it was gummy and he couldn't adjust the front der. Must have spent
20min fooling with it.

I don't know about the rest of your problem, but this problem could be
the result of sports drink dripping down to the bottom of the bike. The
derailer cable gets gummed up where it passes below the bottom bracket.
Wash the bottom of the bike or clean that area with some WD-40 or the
like. Keep any WD-40 away from the bottom bracket and pedal bearings;
wipe off any excess.

Nope nothing ever dripping down bike kept very clean, indoors. No WD-40
ever on it. Some road gum and stuff around the front der, mebee, but
nothing major. But check.

Hoffer