Tellurider said:*I am wondering what is the prefered computer setup and how do you set
it up on a 36" wheel, can any computer be used?*
Hi Dan. A couple thoughts on the computer element. First, although I'm
not sure you asked, you should familiarize yourself with 'this thread'
(http://tinyurl.com/5m4y9) regarding rollout of your Coker wheel.
Regardless of the computer you choose, this is great info.
As for choice, I think the only limit on brand you need to worry about
is relative to how big a rollout it will let you program in. Go to the
site above and figure out the approximate number you'd need, then have
this in hand when you shop to ensure you get one that can program in a
36" wheel size.
I only have experience with two: the Cateye Enduro, and the basic
Schwinn. At 1/3 of the cost, I prefer the Schwinn. Regardless of
brand, the basic principles seem pretty consistent with the
spoke-mounted magnet, frame mounted sensor, and computer unit linked by
either cable or wireless. The main differences are on capabilities and
"programming" from the computer. What I don't like about the Cateye is
that it makes its speed determination based on only a single rotation of
the tire. As a result, if you fall while mounting, or really do
anything (like an idle) that causes the magnet to go back and forth
across the sensor quickly, the computer records and unnaturally high
"Top Speed" for your ride. I've had many where I've come back from a 10
miler eager to see what my top speed was, only to find it at 30 mph or
higher. The Schwinn uses an "averaging" computation, and determines
speed based on a set of three rotations of the wheel. The extra data
point helps to reduce the number of false readings due to futzing around
while mounting.
That said, the one advantage to me of the Cateye is that the magnet
mounting hardware is a better design than the Schwinn. It's much more
flexible for fitting over extra thick spokes, whereas with the Schwinn
you will sometimes need to rig up an alternative attachment system if
the spoke is thicker than what the mounting bolt will accomodate. For
me, that alternative was superglue and a metal washer, but I'm sure
there are more elegant ways.
So on to setup. One tip is to make sure your magnet is mounted on a
spoke that is aligned with one of your pedals. This serves two
purposes: first, when you stop to do a leaning rest, your pedals are at
3 and 9 positions, which ensures the magnet is 90 degrees removed from
the sensor, reducing those false readings discussed above. Second, when
you're climbing or descending, the point of least wheel flex is straight
out from your pedals. I originally mounted my magnet in between the two
pedals, and it would always be hitting the sensor when I was on climbs
or descents. Changing the mounting position fixed this immediately.
This was on a standard Coker wheel, so on your beefy buildup flex might
not be as big an issue.
General setup in mounting is pretty straightforward. The only trick is
getting the sensor close enough to the magnet when it passes to ensure
it "reads". Most computers will come with little flat pieces of rubber
that you can place under the sensor when mounting it to bring it further
out from the frame, closer to the spokes. Pictures #9 and #16 in my
coker gallery give you a bit of a view on how it can be set up.
'Gallery' (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/GB4-36-custom)
Hope this helps. There have been some good discussions on "which brand
of computer do I buy" in past threads, so it might be worth a search on
that.
Tom
--
tomblackwood - Registered Nurtz
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