Used Bikes - What to Watch For

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

I was originally
looking on eBay for used bikes, but I would really like to inspect a
used bike myself, rather than take someones word and potentially end up
with a $300+ piece of junk.

Don't give up on eBay just yet. You can search by proximity to your zip
code. Find something close and go take a look at it. Think of it as an
online classifieds - the person auctioning the item will probably consider a
cash offer during your visit if you like the bike and prefer to avoid the
auction-style purchase.

--
Scott Ehardt
http://www.scehardt.com

Scott Ehardt said:

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I was originally
looking on eBay for used bikes, but I would really like to inspect a
used bike myself, rather than take someones word and potentially end
up with a $300+ piece of junk.

Quoted message said:

Don't give up on eBay just yet. You can search by proximity to your
zip code. Find something close and go take a look at it. Think of
it as an online classifieds - the person auctioning the item will
probably consider a cash offer during your visit if you like the bike
and prefer to avoid the auction-style purchase.

Ebay is fine, but IME it's a sellers' market due to auction fever, especially at
the low end. Shipping charges make up too big a percentage of low cost items
too. So keep an eye on the local classifieds.

rec.bicycles.marketplace is a great resource -- you might try a WTB ad there.

You ought to be able to find a really nice, 10-15 year old road bike for $200 or
less without STI/Ergo, $3-400 with.

Matt O.

It's important to find a bike that fits. Is there a local bike club in your
area? You can find out by inquiring at bike shops. Try contacting some
members of the club and see if they know of anything that's for sale locally in
your budget and size range.

You can buy decent cycling shoes by mail order (Performance, Nashbar, etc.) but
without the assurance of good fit that you'd get in a store.

Mike Yankee

(Address is munged to thwart spammers.
To reply, delete everything after "com".)

Quoted message said:

It's important to find a bike that fits. Is there a local bike club in your
area? You can find out by inquiring at bike shops. Try contacting some
members of the club and see if they know of anything that's for sale locally
in
your budget and size range.

Very good advice. Most clubs have several members who have old bikes that are
gathering dust and may be willing to sell them at a very reasonable price.

Quoted message said:

I'm going to be looking for a used road bike soon. My limit is $375
(less if I have to buy special shoes or any other accessories

Used can be a very good value.

[snip]

Quoted message said:

If anyone
knows of some shops in Massachusetts/Rhode Island (i'm right on the RI
line) that sell used bikes, please let me know.

This may be a bit beyond your ambit, but there are shops in the Boston area
that sell used bikes. I would think you might find something closer to home,
too, by calling bike shops you find in the phone book and asking.

The Broadway Bicycle School in Cambridge, Massachusetts, sells good-quality
rebuilt used bikes.

http://broadwaybicycleschool.com/

Their stock is roughly split 50-50 between "commuter" bikes (upright
handlebars & squishy seats) and road bikes, which is what I guess you want.

Of course, you have to *go* there, but if you do you'll get LBS-style help
with fit and any other questions. You could call first to see if they have
anything likely in stock. Also, you would have no worries about quality.

This is not the super dooper deal you might hope for if you are lucky enough
to find just the right bike at a yard sale, but it is a good store option.

None of their bikes would require special shoes but you could add that if
you wanted to.

Good luck!

Quoted message said:

I'm going to be looking for a used road bike soon. My limit is $375
(less if I have to buy special shoes or any other accessories). I am
upgrading after a summer of riding a wal-mart mountain bike (see my
previous posts). The wal-mart bike has finally had it (one cog pretty
much cracked in half and just recently i've started having major
problems on hills with my "good" gears). I'm not sure if I want to
pick up a thrift-store bike, since I want to do a lot more biking next
year and travel a lot further. I will probably be looking for
classifieds and bike shops that sell used/tradein bikes. If anyone
knows of some shops in Massachusetts/Rhode Island (i'm right on the RI
line) that sell used bikes, please let me know. I was originally
looking on eBay for used bikes, but I would really like to inspect a
used bike myself, rather than take someones word and potentially end up
with a $300+ piece of junk.

Now, what to look for when I am looking at used bikes...
I am 5'9", what frame size (I think thats the measurement) am I looking
for, and how do I measure the frame?

How can I determine a good cassette from one with cogs that will crack
and tear up (like my MTB's did)?

Is there a specific handlebar width I should be looking for, or just
something that feels good?

Pedals - I assume I need special shoes for certain types (clip-ons I
think they are called), how do I get around this when testing bikes (I
don't own any cycling shoes)?

Where can I buy cycling shoes LESS than the $80-$100 ones I see at the
LBS?

Let me know if I missed anything I should be watching for when looking
at a used bike. Sorry for posting a list of questions like this, but
i'm just trying to figure this out. Thanks.

Hi, to start with, you don't need special pedals. If the bike comes
with clipless, you can temporarily change them to a basic pedal. That
way, you can shop for a deal on shoes and pedals if needed. I think a
set of regular old style pedals should run you $10-15.. If I was
looking for used and could see the bike, I would want something that
was taken care of. Look for a bike where the drivetrain is reasonably
clean and when you spin them, that the wheels are not badly out of
true.

The trouble with frame sizes is that they aren't consistent, for
example a Trek and a LeMond are measured differently. I'm 5'10" and
ride a 53cm LeMond, but on most bikes 54-56cm would most likely be the
right size. Your main concern will be the length of the top tube. You
can change stem lengths and angles[rise], so you have some adjustment,
but we are talking about 40mm of flexibility 80mm-120mm. Yes there are
longer and shorter stems, but if the bike can't be made to fit using a
stem in the range I mentioned, it isn't a good fit.

There are a lot of good articles, online, about bike fit. I recommend
that you read some of them. If the bike is a quality brand, you can
and maybe should replace the cassette and chain. Then you won't have
to worry about cogs going bad, for quite a while.

Life is Good!
Jeff

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

I'm going to be looking for a used road bike soon. My limit is $375
... I was originally looking on eBay for used bikes ...

at the risk of getting sneered at, i am going to admit that i bought a new
road bike on eBay for $350 delivered (my Poprad was stolen and i needed a
cheap replacement) from "bikesdirectbikes" which is actually Cycle Spectrum.
i was pleasantly surprised, it's decent. Sora components, aluminum frame.
it's the Windsor Dover model (made in Taiwan). i'm not being an ad for this
seller other than to say that i am satisfied with the purchase. there are
other sellers with similar low-end bikes near the same price range.

of course, you get no help with fit and adjustments when you mail order a
bike, so if that is important then you should definitely visit a local bike
shop. but if you aren't intimidated by a little assembly (front brake,
fork, stem, handlebars, pedals--takes an hour or two if you know what you
are doing) then this might be a reasonable purchase. since it's new, you
don't have to worry about the bike having been abused, it's got new tread,
even a warranty (though i don't know how much good that is for a mail order
bike). you won't need special shoes since it has platform pedals with toe
clips and straps (but you can always upgrade the pedals later if you want
to).

<[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Now, what to look for when I am looking at used bikes...
I am 5'9", what frame size (I think thats the measurement) am I looking
for, and how do I measure the frame?

Height + inseam at least is required. I think a web search will reveal pages that
help you find the correct bike size.

Size of a frame is usually seat-tube length from BB to center or top of top tube (so a
almost vertical measurement). However for fit the most important measurement seems
to be length of the cockpit, or effective top-tobe length. "Effective" here meaning the
length of the TT if it were horizontal.

Depending on your inseam & torso length, I'd expect you to fit bikes in the 53cm to
56cm range. At least for regular road bikes. Some have "compact geometry" and I
don't know how that would work. I"m sure you'll see what sizes work for you.

..

R... said:

Now, what to look for when I am looking at used bikes...
I am 5'9", what frame size (I think thats the measurement) am I

looking

Quoted message said:

for, and how do I measure the frame?

For information about fitting, see:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html

If you just want to plug in some numbers instead of reading the hows
and whys, try:

http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/

Quoted message said:

How can I determine a good cassette from one with cogs that will
crack and tear up

Shimano road component groups from lowest quality to highest are Sora,
Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, and Dura-Ace. Even Sora will be several steps
above most typical discount store bikes. You may see a mix of Sora and
Tiagra components on the same bike, or components from SRAM (another
company) mixed in. All of these components work just fine.

Quoted message said:

Is there a specific handlebar width I should be looking for

Most people start about shoulder width. I like something a little wider
personally, but it's not all that critical.

Quoted message said:

Where can I buy cycling shoes

Beware that you get what you pay for. My last pair of shoes are Nashbar
dirt-cheap specials that I paid something like $20 for. I've had them
for less than two years and put about 4000 miles on them and they're
already falling apart. I also still own a pair I bought on sale for $80
at the LBS in 1987 or so; they're rough around the edges and definitely
look old, but they're still going strong.

That said, shoes can be had inexpensively online at Performance,
Nashbar, and Supergo.

For pedals, you get cleats that you attach to the shoes for whatever
pedal type you get. Most modern shoes will have pre-drilled holes for
most modern pedal cleats.

For a test ride, I've done sneakers on clipless.

Quoted message said:

Let me know if I missed anything I should be watching for when
looking at a used bike

Figure the cost of a tune-up (adjusting brakes, deraillers, cables,
wheels, headset; possibly replacing a few small parts like brake pads,
cables, or chain) in your purchase price.

You mention longer distance riding. You'll want padded bike shorts,
gloves, and a non-cotton jersey. You won't believe how annoying a
t-shirt flapping in the wind can get after two hours.

You'll also need tube repair/replacement tools and the knowledge to use
them. The side of the road probably isn't the best place to figure out
how to snap that tight wire-bead onto your rim.

You'll want a water bottle cage if the bike isn't already equipped with
one.

I hope you'll find some of this information helpful.
RFM
http://www.masoner.net/bike/

if you go looking at yard sales and really cheap bikes -
stay AWAY from steel [chrome plated] wheels.

they don;t stop at all in the rain, they are heavy and they rust.

if they are already rusted, all the more reason to pass.

also what i would call 'stamped' side-pull brakes, i have seen these
bend with the wheel on heavy braking.

one-piece cranksets aslso usually mean junk.

wle.

wle said:

if you go looking at yard sales and really cheap bikes -
stay AWAY from steel [chrome plated] wheels.

they don;t stop at all in the rain, they are heavy and they rust.

if they are already rusted, all the more reason to pass.

also what i would call 'stamped' side-pull brakes, i have seen these
bend with the wheel on heavy braking.

one-piece cranksets aslso usually mean junk.

wle.

It is hard to find a detachable crankset on a bike under 24", since they
all seem to be considered toys and not much else. Ny grandson has a 20"
model called a slither with detachable cranks but made in China so pieces
keep coming loose. It has about 150mm cranks and was wondering if he could
handle the extra length.
Two cents off

--
Bill (?) Baka

The problem I have with buying a bike off ebay is that even though I
can see in pictures how the bike works, I don't have a clue about the
condition of the derailleurs and the cassette. Sizing shouldn't be
that big of a deal knowing what frame size i'm looking for, and I
havn't heard any ebay horror stories about wrong-size bikes... yet I
still have this worry that I will end up stuck with something that
dosn't fit.

Thanks for all the advice and info.

What about steel frames? I've seen some of the (cheaper) bikes on ebay
with steel frames. These are heavier than aluminum, right?

RIWS said:

The problem I have with buying a bike off ebay is that even though I
can see in pictures how the bike works, I don't have a clue about the
condition of the derailleurs and the cassette.

Yeah, I got burned buying a vintage Japanese bike a few months back. The
sellers photo and description made it sound like it was basement fresh
with dust and perhaps a tiny bit of surface corrosion.

When I got it, three weeks later (!), it was apparent that the thing had
been parked near an ocean for a decade, everything chrome was gnarly and
pitted, beyond reasonable restoration. All the bearings were seized, the
thing was unprofessionally disassembled and just shoved into a carton. A
brake lever in the photo was missing as were some hard to obtain screws.
When I inquired about the long shipping time, the seller said his "packer"
was on a drunken bender...

So with Ebay, let the buyer beware, ask for high res photographs of wear
areas and check the sellers history.

FWIW,I spent 30 hours tearing down the above bike and rebuilding it, due
mainly to my own cussedness. It's still corroded, but now with all fresh
consumables and buttery bearings, so at least it's a swell, but fugly
utility bike. 😉

RIWS said:

What about steel frames? I've seen some of the (cheaper) bikes on ebay
with steel frames. These are heavier than aluminum, right?

Not necessarily. The weight of the frame really depends on how it's
constructed. A lot of inexpensive aluminum frames, stuff in the sub 500
dollar bike range, seem to be "overbuilt" imho, and don't really weigh any
less than a similar chromoly frame. They'll be stiffer (usually, not
always), and won't rust which is nice.

The frame is only a small part of a bike's weight, for example, I built up
a single speed the other day with a very light ~4 pound frame. I decided
to use tough 36 spoke wheels, 28mm tires, fenders, heavy duty chain, and
Brooks saddle to create a speedy and bombproof urban ride. As built it's
about 24 pounds, certainly not leaden, but if I'd built it out with
lighter wheels, saddle, and other bits and bobs, I could have got it
easily down to around 18.

Most bikes these days are aluminum, which is fine stuff. Personally if
given a choice between it and steel, I'd go for steel. Often the ride is
nicer, but not always of course, and if you have a wreck, steel tubes are
rather easily realigned.

Rust really is a non-issue, just touch up dings when you've got a spare
minute with whatever you've got handy, paint or nailpolish, your choice.

Unless you're carrying the bike up and down stairs, I wouldn't worry too
much about weight. A pound here or there is less important than the
overall quality and comfort of the bike.

Do think about getting a bike sans suspension if weight is a cincher for
you, most road/comfort/hybrid bikes can make do just fine with a rigid
fork, and lose 2-3 pound in the process. 😉

RIWS said:

I've seen some of the (cheaper) bikes on ebay
with steel frames.

If you look closely you'll also see some steel bikes in the 5K range as
well. 😉

Walmart sells 150 dollar aluminum bikes...

:P

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

The problem I have with buying a bike off ebay is that even though I
can see in pictures how the bike works, I don't have a clue about the
condition of the derailleurs and the cassette. ...

read my post again. the bike i bought on eBay was NEW. that's a pretty
good clue about the condition of the derailleurs and the cassette.

Yes I know you bought knew, I meant about me buying used on ebay.

Sorry to post again, but I know what your talking about.. I just didn't
think before posting. I've seen the windsor bikes from
bikesdirectbikes new and in my price range. Taking a look at the
components now.

Thanks.