Wheel trueing

joe said:

Hi,
Perhaps I`m missing something blindingly obvious here, please enlighten me.

Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the
nipple, rather than
going from the hub side with a spoke tool ?
Clearly it`s not always practical if only a quick adjustment is required, as
you`d have to remove
the tyre, tube and tape.
I can`t see why this wouldn`t be easier ?
TIA.

With "correct length" spokes, as you bring up the tension the nipple slot is at least partially "filled" with the end of the spoke. When you begin the build it is easy to use a screw driver or nipple driver, but at the final tensioning rounds you have two things working against that method: torque required increases and nipple slot has the end of the spoke in it.

Joe said:

Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the
nipple, rather than going from the hub side with a spoke tool ?

You'd never get enough torque using a screwdriver.

When building a new wheel, the screwdriver method expedites initial
nipple engagement. But then you have to switch to a spoke wrench to
tension the wheel.

Art Harris

joe said:

Hi,
Perhaps I`m missing something blindingly obvious here, please enlighten me.

Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the
nipple, rather than
going from the hub side with a spoke tool ?
Clearly it`s not always practical if only a quick adjustment is required, as
you`d have to remove
the tyre, tube and tape.
I can`t see why this wouldn`t be easier ?
TIA.

Sometimes the spokes come up a bit far and prevent you from getting a
screwdriver in the slot.

I think you also get a better purchase with a spoke wrench which is
necessary if the wheel is a bit old and seized-up.

And you'd have to take the tyre off like you say.

But apart from that use the slots if you like.

Art Harris said:

Joe said:

Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the
nipple, rather than going from the hub side with a spoke tool ?

You'd never get enough torque using a screwdriver.

You can get plenty if the nips are lubed. I just had to resort to this
route on a wheel with a chewed nipple. It requires a bit of heroic
muscle and I wouldn't bring an entire wheel up to tension with a
driver--but it's doable. I probably would have run down to the LBS for
a handful of nipples had they been open, though.

landotter said:

You can get plenty if the nips are lubed. I just had to resort to this
route on a wheel with a chewed nipple. It requires a bit of heroic
muscle and I wouldn't bring an entire wheel up to tension with a
driver--but it's doable. I probably would have run down to the LBS for
a handful of nipples had they been open, though.

I usually run to the local brothel when I need a handful of nipples.

still just me said:

On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 09:20:50 -0700 (PDT), landotter

Quoted message said:

You can get plenty if the nips are lubed. I just had to resort to this
route on a wheel with a chewed nipple. It requires a bit of heroic
muscle and I wouldn't bring an entire wheel up to tension with a
driver--but it's doable. I probably would have run down to the LBS for
a handful of nipples had they been open, though.

I usually run to the local brothel when I need a handful of nipples.

We should both ride next time--it's faster.

"joe" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi,
Perhaps I`m missing something blindingly obvious here, please enlighten
me.

Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the
nipple, rather than
going from the hub side with a spoke tool ?
Clearly it`s not always practical if only a quick adjustment is required,
as you`d have to remove
the tyre, tube and tape.
I can`t see why this wouldn`t be easier ?
TIA.

It certainly was on a set of wheels I rebuilt a few years ago. The nipples
had hexagon heads which mean that one could work from the outside of the
wheel using a small socket and wrench. By far the easiest wheel set I have
built.

daveornee said:

With "correct length" spokes, as you bring up the tension the nipple
slot is at least partially "filled" with the end of the spoke. When you
begin the build it is easy to use a screw driver or nipple driver, but
at the final tensioning rounds you have two things working against that
method: torque required increases and nipple slot has the end of the
spoke in it.

I have a screwdriver that I cut a notch into for that very purpose. It
allows me to go further with the screwdriver before having to switch to
the spoke wrench.

--
Work and recreation are not often effected at the same time.
One using a bicycle in business makes an exception to the rule.
- Dr. Edgar H. Earl, Rochester. (~1892)

joe said:

Hi,
Perhaps I`m missing something blindingly obvious here, please enlighten me.

Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the
nipple, rather than
going from the hub side with a spoke tool ?
Clearly it`s not always practical if only a quick adjustment is required, as
you`d have to remove
the tyre, tube and tape.
I can`t see why this wouldn`t be easier ?
TIA.

It is fairly easy.

Step 1: Remove tire.
Step 2: Remove tube.
Step 3: Note that spokes are protruding past the tops of the nipples.
Step 4: Grind a notch in a screw driver to fit it around the spoke
end.
Step 5: Grind another screwdriver because you went to wide on the
first one.
Step 6: Try applying heroic amount of torque to screw driver, slip,
and bash knuckles into rim.
Step 7: Apply bandages, have a look to see just how much farther out
of true you just knocked your wheel.
Step 8: Get a better grip on the driver, and turn a nipple a quarter
turn.
Step 9: Strip the top of the nipple, because slotted brass doesn't
like heroic amounts of torque.
Step 10: Get some more bandages, because you bashed your knuckles
into the rim again. While you're out, buy a damn spoke wrench.

graham said:

It certainly was on a set of wheels I rebuilt a few years ago. The nipples
had hexagon heads which mean that one could work from the outside of the
wheel using a small socket and wrench. By far the easiest wheel set I have
built.

I've run into those a few times too. Far superior, at least for any
rim with the spoke head inset so that the typical flattish head
becomes irrelevant. I've used a nutdriver handle with a socket to
adjust them - even easier! Nice when building but I still would use a
spoke wrench once built.

You can. The spoke end might get in the way, and of course you would
have to remove the tire, tube and rim strip before you could do
anything.

When I was working for a bike shop (and was their chief wheelbuilder)
that's how I did it We had a special "truing screwdriver" that had a
notch in the center of the blade to fit over the spoke head.

And of course, there was no rimstrip, tube or tire on the rim yet.

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I stand trueing wheels with a rear triangle mounted on 2x2 on 1/2 ply
b ut I'm looking down at the spoke/rim section caws the ply's too
short.
Maybe I'll raise it so the trueing section is at eye level.
Now, how to apply the screwdriver and sight the rim section ???
Sit down sighting across horizontally?
Or sight to the rim section directly in front of your face with the
nipple pointed directly at you?

seams lika awkward arm position no matter how you cut it ?
what did you have in mind for arm position, rim position?

The idea I work with is sighting across the rim to the trueing point
so I have a general idea of where we're going and where we came from,
circumferentially speaking.

DT has a nipple end that takes torque ??