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Which Brooks Saddle?

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Cycling Equipment
Published
11 May 2005
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5 July 2005
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pinnah
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  1. I need some advice on choosing between Brooks Professional and the wider,
    Standard B17.

    I get in a 2 or 3 rides a week that range in length from 1 to 3 hours.
    Occassionally I get out for longer day long rides and light touring.

    On my shorter rides, I generally maintain a cadance of 90+. On day long
    rides, it is more likely to be in low 80s, but generally no lower than
    that.

    My bars are set at the height of my saddle but I spend at least 1/2 of my
    time on the drops. The majority of the my time on my shorter, faster
    cadance rides is on the drops.

    My concern is that the wider profile of the B17 may impeed faster riding.
    Is this an unfounded concern?

    My other concern is that the Professional won't catch and hold onto my sit
    bones as well as the wider B17? Is this an unfounded concern?

    Many thanks,

    -Dave

  2. The Professional sounds like what you want. My experience has been
    that the wider B17 is more appropriate for folks who have a more
    upright position.

    Is there a particular reason that you are going with Brooks? Except
    for the retro cachet, I don't understand why anyone, except someone who
    can't get comfortable on another saddle, would use one.

    [censored] "been there, done that" Durbin

  3. Olebiker said:

    Is there a particular reason that you are going with Brooks? Except
    for the retro cachet, I don't understand why anyone, except someone who
    can't get comfortable on another saddle, would use one.

    I've not found a comfortable saddle yet. Current one is a Terry Ti Race
    with a couple of years on it. Before that was a Sella Royalle(?) racy type
    saddle. Loss of circulation drove me off of the Sella Royalle after many
    many years, including a cross country trip. No sentimentality. I tossed
    that thing in the dumpster with glee. The Terry has been a big
    disappointment, despite raves (at the time) by the majority of the riders
    at the LBS team. My Terry is very swayed. The only way I can keep my sit
    bones on the back is to tip the horn high, which causes numbness. Even with
    the horn high, I can feel my low back fighting to push my hips back (and I
    don't have my bars way out in front). My low back has been getting worse
    over the past 2 years (I generally have difficulty walking after a ride of
    more than hour) so I'm hoping to find a saddle that will "catch" my sit
    bones better, if that makes any sense.

    I've not, "done that" with leather saddles yet and given that good saddles
    seem to be in the same price range, I thought I'd give a try.

  4. pinnah said:


    I've not found a comfortable saddle yet. Current one is a Terry Ti Race
    with a couple of years on it. Before that was a Sella Royalle(?) racy type
    saddle. Loss of circulation drove me off of the Sella Royalle after many
    many years, including a cross country trip. No sentimentality. I tossed
    that thing in the dumpster with glee. The Terry has been a big
    disappointment, despite raves (at the time) by the majority of the riders
    at the LBS team. My Terry is very swayed. The only way I can keep my sit
    bones on the back is to tip the horn high, which causes numbness. Even with
    the horn high, I can feel my low back fighting to push my hips back (and I
    don't have my bars way out in front). My low back has been getting worse
    over the past 2 years (I generally have difficulty walking after a ride of
    more than hour) so I'm hoping to find a saddle that will "catch" my sit
    bones better, if that makes any sense.

    It sounds like you might benefit more from a good bike fit than another
    new saddle. Having said that...

    Quoted message said:

    I've not, "done that" with leather saddles yet and given that good saddles
    seem to be in the same price range, I thought I'd give a try.

    I did, and I'm one of those singing the praises of a Brooks; B17 in my
    case. (You do know you can expect every r.b.t regular who doesn't like
    Brooks to chime in with a "don't do that" post, don't you?) Figure out,
    first, how far apart your sit bones are. wallbike.com lists the B17 as
    170 mm wide, the team pro at 160 mm. I'm guessing you'd want to allow
    30-40 mm for rivets and a comfort zone, so if your sit bones are more
    than, say 120-130 mm apart, go for the B17; your choice otherwise.

    My B17 was never really uncomfortable, but was comfortable after about
    100 miles, and disappeared before 500 miles -- it was so nice I never
    noticed it after that. Wallingford (wallbike.com) is my recommendation
    if you're going to mail order a saddle, since you can return it for a
    refund within 6 months if the saddle doesn't work out. You really only
    risk shipping and handling, and maybe some Proofide.

    Pat

  5. I couldnt find a great saddle until I tried a b17 Standard. I also
    have the b17 n which is no better than anything else.

  6. pinnah said:
    Olebiker said:

    Is there a particular reason that you are going with Brooks? Except
    for the retro cachet, I don't understand why anyone, except someone who
    can't get comfortable on another saddle, would use one.

    I've not found a comfortable saddle yet. Current one is a Terry Ti Race
    with a couple of years on it. Before that was a Sella Royalle(?) racy type
    saddle. Loss of circulation drove me off of the Sella Royalle after many
    many years, including a cross country trip. No sentimentality. I tossed
    that thing in the dumpster with glee. The Terry has been a big
    disappointment, despite raves (at the time) by the majority of the riders
    at the LBS team. My Terry is very swayed. The only way I can keep my sit
    bones on the back is to tip the horn high, which causes numbness. Even with
    the horn high, I can feel my low back fighting to push my hips back (and I
    don't have my bars way out in front). My low back has been getting worse
    over the past 2 years (I generally have difficulty walking after a ride of
    more than hour) so I'm hoping to find a saddle that will "catch" my sit
    bones better, if that makes any sense.

    I've not, "done that" with leather saddles yet and given that good saddles
    seem to be in the same price range, I thought I'd give a try.

    I have similar issues with a Terry saddle, I've never really liked it. I
    went the Brooks route, w/o success, although I know many who like them a
    lot. I've found that I'm most comfortable on very flat saddles, like
    Selle Italia. The very plain ones (Flite) are good for moderate
    distances (several hours), but I like a little more padding (Trimatic)
    on all day rides. I get wicked numbness with saddles that have any front
    to back curvature. Leather saddles kill me in that respect. With both
    the Terry and especially the Brooks, I was always trying to get my sit
    bones back, as you describe. There just doesn't seem to be enough room
    between the nose and back of the saddle.

  7. "Peter Cole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    pinnah said:
    Olebiker said:

    Is there a particular reason that you are going with Brooks? Except
    for the retro cachet, I don't understand why anyone, except someone who
    can't get comfortable on another saddle, would use one.

    I've not found a comfortable saddle yet. Current one is a Terry Ti Race
    with a couple of years on it. Before that was a Sella Royalle(?) racy


    type

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    saddle. Loss of circulation drove me off of the Sella Royalle after many
    many years, including a cross country trip. No sentimentality. I tossed
    that thing in the dumpster with glee. The Terry has been a big
    disappointment, despite raves (at the time) by the majority of the


    riders

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    at the LBS team. My Terry is very swayed. The only way I can keep my sit
    bones on the back is to tip the horn high, which causes numbness. Even


    with

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the horn high, I can feel my low back fighting to push my hips back (and


    I

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    don't have my bars way out in front). My low back has been getting worse
    over the past 2 years (I generally have difficulty walking after a ride


    of

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    more than hour) so I'm hoping to find a saddle that will "catch" my sit
    bones better, if that makes any sense.

    I've not, "done that" with leather saddles yet and given that good


    saddles

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    seem to be in the same price range, I thought I'd give a try.

    I have similar issues with a Terry saddle, I've never really liked it. I
    went the Brooks route, w/o success, although I know many who like them a
    lot. I've found that I'm most comfortable on very flat saddles, like
    Selle Italia. The very plain ones (Flite) are good for moderate
    distances (several hours), but I like a little more padding (Trimatic)
    on all day rides. I get wicked numbness with saddles that have any front
    to back curvature. Leather saddles kill me in that respect. With both
    the Terry and especially the Brooks, I was always trying to get my sit
    bones back, as you describe. There just doesn't seem to be enough room
    between the nose and back of the saddle.

    Ditto the recommendation for Selle Italia. I tried a bunch of different
    saddles when I got my first "real" road bike (Bontrager, Specialized Body
    Geometry, Avocet), but never found comfort until I got the absolutely
    minimalist Selle Italia SLR. I do a fair amount of climbing, so in addition
    to the comfort factor, I like that it's one of the lightest saddles on the
    market (especially when compared to the Bricks...err, Brooks).

    Of course, saddle selection is a highly individualized issue. One man's
    Barca-Lounger will be another man's Bed o' Nails, and vice versa. That's
    one reason most seasoned roadies have at least 3 or 4 saddles in a box in
    the garage.

    Specialized brand has attempted to address the problem recently (and
    generate some marketing buzz). They market their saddles in different
    widths, and have provided bike shops with the aptly named "Assometer" that
    will measure your sit bone width in an attempt to fit you with the proper
    saddle.

    www.RoadBikeRider.com markets an e-book that supposedly has a lot of advice
    for finding the perfect saddle:
    http://www.roadbikerider.com/bookstore.htm#Finding_the_Perfect_Bicycle_Seat_

    --
    ~_-*
    ....G/ \G
    http://www.CycliStats.com
    CycliStats - Software for Cyclists

  8. pinnah said:

    I need some advice on choosing between Brooks Professional and the
    wider, Standard B17.

    Pick one up off Ebay and if you don't get on with it sell it on Ebay.

    On average you'll just lose the cost of postage, if you time it right you
    might even get ahead.

    --
    Andy Morris

    AndyAtJinkasDotFreeserve.Co.UK

    Love this:
    Put an end to Outlook Express's messy quotes
    http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/oe-quotefix/

  9. In article <[email hidden]>,

    pinnah said:

    I need some advice on choosing between Brooks Professional and the wider,
    Standard B17.

    My concern is that the wider profile of the B17 may impeed faster riding.
    Is this an unfounded concern?

    Yes

    Quoted message said:

    My other concern is that the Professional won't catch and hold onto my sit
    bones as well as the wider B17? Is this an unfounded concern?

    Depends on your sitbones!

    I ride both saddles, but I find the B.17 more comfortable. It doesn't
    slow me down in the least.

    I would suggest starting with a B.17 because, generally, more folks find
    that model comfortable than the Team Pro. Check out wallbike.com for
    more comments, as has been noted.

    Also, you can read tons of positive reviews on Brooks saddles on
    mtbr.com.

  10. Wed, 11 May 2005 11:34:30 -0400, pinnah <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    I need some advice on choosing between Brooks Professional and the
    wider,
    Standard B17.

    I get in a 2 or 3 rides a week that range in length from 1 to 3 hours.
    Occassionally I get out for longer day long rides and light touring.

    On my shorter rides, I generally maintain a cadance of 90+. On day long
    rides, it is more likely to be in low 80s, but generally no lower than
    that.

    My bars are set at the height of my saddle but I spend at least 1/2 of my
    time on the drops. The majority of the my time on my shorter, faster
    cadance rides is on the drops.

    My concern is that the wider profile of the B17 may impeed faster riding.
    Is this an unfounded concern?

    My other concern is that the Professional won't catch and hold onto my
    sit
    bones as well as the wider B17? Is this an unfounded concern?

    Many thanks,

    -Dave

    I am a complete Brooks arce, and have been so for twentysome years. I use
    the Brooks Professional on my rain and snow commuter bike with flat
    handlebars. That gives me plenty of support.
    Since you spend half the time in the drops and keep above 80 RPM, I think
    you will benefit from the narrower alternative.
    On my racer, where the feet and the hands take off part of the load from
    the sit bones, I am comfortable with the even narrower Brooks Swift.

    If you are a real Brooks man, who appriciates the firm, yet yielding
    personal leahter fit, I believe there is a very good chance the Brooks
    Professional will suit you.

    Ivar of Denmark

    --
    Sendt med Operas banebrydende nyhedsgruppe-
    og e-postklient: http://www.opera.com/m2/

  11. Andy Morris said:
    pinnah said:

    I need some advice on choosing between Brooks Professional and the
    wider, Standard B17.

    Pick one up off Ebay and if you don't get on with it sell it on Ebay.

    On average you'll just lose the cost of postage, if you time it right you
    might even get ahead.

    Buy a new one from Wallingford, and return it, if it doesn't work out.
    You wil only be out the shipping costs and you can break the saddle
    in to fit you.
    It is my understanding that Brooks saddles conform to your own
    individual sit bone shape, so why buy one that someone else broke in
    to fit them.

    http://www.wallbike.com/

    Life is Good!
    Jeff

  12. 11 bikes with 11 different Brooks saddles ranging from B-17 to Swallow.
    I prefer the Professional to all others unles I am looking for ultra
    light weight Brooks, then the Swallow is the chosen one. I wouldn't
    ride anything else and haven't for over 40 years.

  13. GaryG said:

    Specialized brand has attempted to address the problem recently (and
    generate some marketing buzz). They market their saddles in different
    widths, and have provided bike shops with the aptly named "Assometer" that
    will measure your sit bone width in an attempt to fit you with the proper
    saddle.

    When I picked up my new recumbent at the LBS, I noticed they had that
    Specialized "Assometer" sitting near the floor below their display of
    saddles. I gave it a try and according to it, I needed something around
    145mm wide.

    One of the saddles I had been looking at to replace the too-wide, stock
    Specialized Body Geometry Milano saddle on my road bike was the San
    Marco Rolls ($30 NOS from nashbar.com), which is ~147mm at the back and
    narrow all along the nose.

    The Assometer was right! I love that saddle even with only maybe 100
    miles on it. No chafing or compressed nads as I'd get with the Milano
    saddle, and my sit bones are supported just right. If that saddle
    didn't do it for me, I was going to get a Brooks B17 Narrow, but I don't
    expect to bother anymore. The Rolls fits me.

    I'm still faster on the recumbent though :-).

    --
    I do not accept unsolicited commercial e-mail. Remove NO_UCE for
    legitimate replies.

  14. Per pinnah:

    Quoted message said:

    My concern is that the wider profile of the B17 may impeed faster riding.
    Is this an unfounded concern?

    Only way to tell is to try one and see if your thighs chafe in an aero position.

    Quoted message said:

    My other concern is that the Professional won't catch and hold onto my sit
    bones as well as the wider B17? Is this an unfounded concern?

    How about quantifying your sitbone width? Sit on something that takes an
    impression - like 1/2" styrofoam, or cardboard, or even a sheet of paper on the
    right kind of rug. The C-C measurement between the indentations will tell the
    tale.

    --
    PeteCresswell

  15. pinnah said:

    My other concern is that the Professional won't catch and hold onto


    my sit

    Quoted message said:

    bones as well as the wider B17? Is this an unfounded concern?

    Not at all.

    I once had a Brooks Pro. The main reason I sold it was that my sit
    bones were actually sitting on the steel frame and rivets at the sides
    of the saddle. I didn't have that problem with the B-17 Standard.

    Mind you, the Standard wasn't very comfortable for me either; but at
    least I was on leather, not on metal.

    As several others have said, everyone's different; you really need to
    figure out how far apart your sit bones are. I memorized that
    distance, learned to spread my fingers exactly that same amount, and
    used the fingertips as replacement sit-bones when saddle shopping. I
    used this to quickly eliminate a lot of saddles.

    And BTW, whoever invented the term "Assometer" deserves a promotion!

    - Frank Krygowski

  16. pinnah said:

    I need some advice on choosing between Brooks Professional and the wider,
    Standard B17.


    -snip-

    Quoted message said:

    My concern is that the wider profile of the B17 may impeed faster riding.
    Is this an unfounded concern?
    My other concern is that the Professional won't catch and hold onto my sit
    bones as well as the wider B17? Is this an unfounded concern?

    There is no answer to your question.

    You have two possible courses of action:
    -Buy the B.17 and if it seems too wide, exchange for a Pro.
    -Buy the Pro and if it seems too narrow, exchange for a B.17
    ( or a Champion Special)

    Be sure to shop at a Brooks dealer who will allow
    return/exchange.
    http://www.yellowjersey.org/brooks3.html
    for example.
    Even the most accommodating among us will insist on 'like
    new' return condition so a saddle cover is indicated and do
    try not to scuff the sides.

    p.s. I have never found any saddle an impediment to faster
    riding. Lungs, legs, sure. Saddle, no.
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  17. My B 66 works really good and its spring loaded. But
    every 3 speed I see its being walked up hill. I ride up every hill with
    my ass never leaving that B 66.

  18. Probably the professional. I used a professional and a Swift for 3-4
    years and have since gone back to my old Swallows that I grew up with.
    They just feel right.

    Tom

  19. Quoted message said:

    My B 66 works really good and its spring loaded. But
    every 3 speed I see its being walked up hill. I ride up every hill with
    my ass never leaving that B 66.


    The traditional three speed gearing is 46 x 18 on a 26 inch
    wheel. Sturmey Archer AW gearboxes give a 25% reduction and
    a 33% increase ( It is a simple planetary arrangement which
    drives 3:4 or 4:3) so that's 50-66-88. Swapping the 18 for
    a 20 was a popular option when those British bikes were new.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  20. Its 28 inch wheels an a AB hub. The only non working
    thing is the lighting and thats due to the front wheel generator. I'm
    thinking just using front and rear Planet Bike flashing lights.White up
    front red rear. I kind of love the Brooks saddle. Had one in the 60s on
    a English Racer Robin Hood.

    I MTB 2004

    05 makes 10 Mtbing

    05 makes 10

    05 makes 10

    05 makes 10

    05

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