White Lightning question

Penster said:

I have switched from standard lube to White Lightning and am immediately
impressed. The stuff washes off my hands with soap and water!

This should give you some idea of what the stuff is worth on your chain
when riding in wet weather, and of how long it will last in ordinary
conditions.

Quoted message said:

Couple of questions. After a wet ride, do you simply wipe the chain and put
some more on. When you want to completly clean the chain to relube it, how
do you do it.

It's the same as anything else: if your chain is dirty and you put the
stuff on, you will help wash the dirt into the innards of the chain.
When you want to completely clean the chain, use the same procedure as
you would for anything else. The hard part will be to get out the dirt
and grime, not the stuff you deliberately put on. Try any
grease-busting laundry detergent.

If you use SRAM chains the best lubrication is the expensive stuff they
grease it with at the factory (Google "Gleitmo" in this newsgroup).

Since starting this thread, I have read some reviews. Not good in wet
conditions.
Penster
"41" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Penster said:

I have switched from standard lube to White Lightning and am immediately
impressed. The stuff washes off my hands with soap and water!

This should give you some idea of what the stuff is worth on your chain
when riding in wet weather, and of how long it will last in ordinary
conditions.

Quoted message said:

Couple of questions. After a wet ride, do you simply wipe the chain and
put
some more on. When you want to completly clean the chain to relube it,
how
do you do it.

It's the same as anything else: if your chain is dirty and you put the
stuff on, you will help wash the dirt into the innards of the chain.
When you want to completely clean the chain, use the same procedure as
you would for anything else. The hard part will be to get out the dirt
and grime, not the stuff you deliberately put on. Try any
grease-busting laundry detergent.

If you use SRAM chains the best lubrication is the expensive stuff they
grease it with at the factory (Google "Gleitmo" in this newsgroup).

REPENT!!!!!!!!!

Two big problems with WL:

1. It will build up into a hard-to-clean gunk on your pulleys, chain
rings, and cogs

2. It has a poor shelf life. It will eventually precipiate. Once it
does that, it is unusable.

I'd put up with WL for several years.

I now get a new chain and clean it with Finish Line's EcoTech 2. I then
put a drop of ProLink Gold at each pin (this stuff is stinky when wet
and will bleed through several layers of newspaper!). I wipe off the
excess immediately, wipe again in an hour, and again the next morning.
This results in a clean and dry drive train which will last a few
hundred miles.

Penster said:

I have switched from standard lube to White Lightning and am immediately
impressed. The stuff washes off my hands with soap and water!
Couple of questions. After a wet ride, do you simply wipe the chain and put
some more on. When you want to completly clean the chain to relube it, how
do you do it.
Many thanks.
Mick

Richard
Thanks for the advice.
Penster
"richard" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

REPENT!!!!!!!!!

Two big problems with WL:

1. It will build up into a hard-to-clean gunk on your pulleys, chain
rings, and cogs

2. It has a poor shelf life. It will eventually precipiate. Once it does
that, it is unusable.

I'd put up with WL for several years.

I now get a new chain and clean it with Finish Line's EcoTech 2. I then
put a drop of ProLink Gold at each pin (this stuff is stinky when wet and
will bleed through several layers of newspaper!). I wipe off the excess
immediately, wipe again in an hour, and again the next morning. This
results in a clean and dry drive train which will last a few hundred
miles.

Penster said:

I have switched from standard lube to White Lightning and am immediately
impressed. The stuff washes off my hands with soap and water!
Couple of questions. After a wet ride, do you simply wipe the chain and
put some more on. When you want to completly clean the chain to relube
it, how do you do it.
Many thanks.
Mick

i've been using the regular white lightning since 1995. since then
i've tried a bunch of wax based and non wax based lubes.

people say this stuff washes off in the rain. i've not experienced
that. this stuff sticks like crazy to a chain.

people say it builds up on various drivetrain parts. it's only
supposed to be applied to the chain! and in most cases, people apply
WAY too much. simple common sense, if you apply too much it's going to
make a mess.

someone posted about the shelf life...i've have a half gallon thatt's
been on a shelf for about 8 months now. no problems yet.

you really should clean the chain before each application. each
application shoudl last about 100 miles. you'll know when it's time to
apply more as the chain will sound dry. you'll want to clean it and
re-appply before that time.

one thing i've found quite handy is....set the chain inteh largest ring
and some middle cog. after the initial application of WL (a steady
stream for 7 pedal revolutions) hold a flame to the chain as you turn
the cranks forward...it'll self extinguish. wipe __VERY__ thoroughly
afterwards with a rag.

the solvet will ignite and it seems capilary action does a good job of
drawing the wax into the rollers.

i'd taken various portions of chain apart after this and find almost
twice as much waxy deposits in the rollers after a flaming on compared
to just pouring it on.

obviously, there are those who are too inept to manage this method.
those people have burned holes in their livingroom carpets (OH! THE
HUMANITY!!!!) and burned themselves.

i've found it works quite well. it's quick and easy.

Penster said:

I have switched from standard lube to White Lightning and am immediately
impressed. The stuff washes off my hands with soap and water!
Couple of questions. After a wet ride, do you simply wipe the chain and put
some more on. When you want to completly clean the chain to relube it, how
do you do it.
Many thanks.
Mick

On 5 Aug 2006 10:04:46 -0700, "sal bass" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

i've been using the regular white lightning since 1995. since then
i've tried a bunch of wax based and non wax based lubes.

people say this stuff washes off in the rain. i've not experienced
that. this stuff sticks like crazy to a chain.

people say it builds up on various drivetrain parts. it's only
supposed to be applied to the chain! and in most cases, people apply
WAY too much. simple common sense, if you apply too much it's going to
make a mess.

someone posted about the shelf life...i've have a half gallon thatt's
been on a shelf for about 8 months now. no problems yet.

you really should clean the chain before each application. each
application shoudl last about 100 miles. you'll know when it's time to
apply more as the chain will sound dry. you'll want to clean it and
re-appply before that time.

one thing i've found quite handy is....set the chain inteh largest ring
and some middle cog. after the initial application of WL (a steady
stream for 7 pedal revolutions) hold a flame to the chain as you turn
the cranks forward...it'll self extinguish. wipe __VERY__ thoroughly
afterwards with a rag.

the solvet will ignite and it seems capilary action does a good job of
drawing the wax into the rollers.

Quoted message said:

i'd taken various portions of chain apart after this and find almost
twice as much waxy deposits in the rollers after a flaming on compared
to just pouring it on.

obviously, there are those who are too inept to manage this method.
those people have burned holes in their livingroom carpets (OH! THE
HUMANITY!!!!) and burned themselves.

i've found it works quite well. it's quick and easy.

Dear Sal,

You shake my frame and you rattle my chain!
Too much lubrication drives my gears insane!
You broke my wheel, but what a spiel!
Goodness gracious great balls of fire--

Hmmm . . . my piano keys are sticking and sound dry.

If anyone has a match, I'll lubricate them.

Cheers,

J.L. Lewis

sal bass said:

i've been using the regular white lightning since 1995. since then
i've tried a bunch of wax based and non wax based lubes.

people say this stuff washes off in the rain. i've not experienced
that. this stuff sticks like crazy to a chain.

people say it builds up on various drivetrain parts. it's only
supposed to be applied to the chain! and in most cases, people apply
WAY too much. simple common sense, if you apply too much it's going to
make a mess.

someone posted about the shelf life...i've have a half gallon thatt's
been on a shelf for about 8 months now. no problems yet.

you really should clean the chain before each application. each
application shoudl last about 100 miles. you'll know when it's time to
apply more as the chain will sound dry. you'll want to clean it and
re-appply before that time.

Cleaning and lubing a chain every two or three day's riding is just stupid when
ordinary cheap motor oil holds up better than that, costs way less and is easier
to clean up.

Quoted message said:

one thing i've found quite handy is....set the chain inteh largest ring
and some middle cog. after the initial application of WL (a steady
stream for 7 pedal revolutions) hold a flame to the chain as you turn
the cranks forward...it'll self extinguish. wipe __VERY__ thoroughly
afterwards with a rag.

the solvet will ignite and it seems capilary action does a good job of
drawing the wax into the rollers.

i'd taken various portions of chain apart after this and find almost
twice as much waxy deposits in the rollers after a flaming on compared
to just pouring it on.

obviously, there are those who are too inept to manage this method.
those people have burned holes in their livingroom carpets (OH! THE
HUMANITY!!!!) and burned themselves.

i've found it works quite well. it's quick and easy.

What is quick and easy about doing that a couple times a week. Sheesh. Squirt
some oil on it while spinning, wipe with a rag. Rub the crud off the jockey
wheels while your at it. Do about once every week or two. No fire drill, or
daily fuss. Wanna get fancy, mix mineral spirits and chainsaw oil and use that.
Cleans up even faster. Still costs a tenth of White Lightning.

Don't get me wrong, I've used WL and it's good for what it's good for, bikes
that get looked at more than they get ridden.

Ron

Quoted message said:

Penster said:

I have switched from standard lube to White Lightning and am immediately
impressed. The stuff washes off my hands with soap and water!
Couple of questions. After a wet ride, do you simply wipe the chain and put
some more on. When you want to completly clean the chain to relube it, how
do you do it.
Many thanks.
Mick

sal bass said:

i've been using the regular white lightning since 1995. since then
i've tried a bunch of wax based and non wax based lubes.

people say this stuff washes off in the rain. i've not experienced
that. this stuff sticks like crazy to a chain.

people say it builds up on various drivetrain parts. it's only
supposed to be applied to the chain! and in most cases, people apply
WAY too much. simple common sense, if you apply too much it's going
to make a mess.

someone posted about the shelf life...i've have a half gallon thatt's
been on a shelf for about 8 months now. no problems yet.

HALF A GALLON, GRACIE?!? I like to buy in bulk, too, but that's
ridiculously sublime. (Or sublimely ridi... you get the idea.)

Quoted message said:

you really should clean the chain before each application. each
application shoudl last about 100 miles. you'll know when it's time
to apply more as the chain will sound dry. you'll want to clean it
and re-appply before that time.

one thing i've found quite handy is....set the chain inteh largest
ring and some middle cog. after the initial application of WL (a
steady stream for 7 pedal revolutions) hold a flame to the chain as
you turn the cranks forward...it'll self extinguish. wipe __VERY__
thoroughly afterwards with a rag.

the solvet will ignite and it seems capilary action does a good job of
drawing the wax into the rollers.

i'd taken various portions of chain apart after this and find almost
twice as much waxy deposits in the rollers after a flaming on compared
to just pouring it on.

obviously, there are those who are too inept to manage this method.
those people have burned holes in their livingroom carpets (OH! THE
HUMANITY!!!!) and burned themselves.

i've found it works quite well. it's quick and easy.

I dribble a bit on every 9-10 road rides (before every mtb ride), usually
running chain thru a dry rag first. Every few months I'll spray some WD40
on the rag beforehand.

Why turn the cranks /forward/, BTW? I back-pedal as I apply; never thought
to try setting it all afire after :-D

Penster said:

I have switched from standard lube to White Lightning and am immediately
impressed. The stuff washes off my hands with soap and water!
Couple of questions. After a wet ride, do you simply wipe the chain and put
some more on. When you want to completly clean the chain to relube it, how
do you do it.
Many thanks.
Mick

After a very muddy ride, and a bike hosing, I find that very little
white lightning exists. So I just let the chain dry, and put on more
lube till it drips off the chain. Let it sit/dry. Thats it.

I don't fret about washing the chain anymore. The gunk seems to fall
off with the excess wax as you ride.

later,

tom @ www.WorkAtHomePlans.com

On Fri, 04 Aug 2006 20:47:12 -0500, richard <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

REPENT!!!!!!!!!

Two big problems with WL:

1. It will build up into a hard-to-clean gunk on your pulleys, chain
rings, and cogs

It seems to fall off. I've tried to 'build it up" but any residue
seems to fall off during a good ride.

Quoted message said:

2. It has a poor shelf life. It will eventually precipiate. Once it
does that, it is unusable.

Ah, it's in suspension to begin with, shake it and the wax will be in
suspension again.

Quoted message said:

I'd put up with WL for several years.

I now get a new chain and clean it with Finish Line's EcoTech 2. I then
put a drop of ProLink Gold at each pin (this stuff is stinky when wet
and will bleed through several layers of newspaper!). I wipe off the
excess immediately, wipe again in an hour, and again the next morning.
This results in a clean and dry drive train which will last a few
hundred miles.

Penster said:

I have switched from standard lube to White Lightning and am immediately
impressed. The stuff washes off my hands with soap and water!
Couple of questions. After a wet ride, do you simply wipe the chain and put
some more on. When you want to completly clean the chain to relube it, how
do you do it.
Many thanks.
Mick

tom

sal bass said:

people say this stuff washes off in the rain. i've not experienced
that. this stuff sticks like crazy to a chain.

people say it builds up on various drivetrain parts. it's only
supposed to be applied to the chain! and in most cases, people apply
WAY too much. simple common sense, if you apply too much it's going to
make a mess.

After about a year of using 80-weight hypoid gear oil,
which is easy to apply and smooth as p**** for a while,
but attracts sooty crud like duct tape attracts duct tape,
and transfers it to any fabric (including human skin) that
passes within ten inches and looks askance at it, I've
gone back to WL.

And this time I'm intentionally reapplying every 3-4 rides
without so much as wiping, just to see what the buildup
characteristics are like.

It's only a couple of weeks in, though, so all I can say so far
is that this stuff is not as clean after a week than it is when
it was clean.

Quoted message said:

someone posted about the shelf life...i've have a half gallon thatt's
been on a shelf for about 8 months now. no problems yet.

My bottle is about 2 years old and lives in an Arizona garage.

It precipitates within a day, but a shake or three turns it back
into what it's supposed to look like.

Quoted message said:

you really should clean the chain before each application. each
application shoudl last about 100 miles. you'll know when it's time to
apply more as the chain will sound dry. you'll want to clean it and
re-appply before that time.

How clean would you recommend? Dishwasher? Chainwasher?
Wipe it with a rag that's wet with degreaser?

Quoted message said:

one thing i've found quite handy is....set the chain inteh largest ring
and some middle cog. after the initial application of WL (a steady
stream for 7 pedal revolutions)

One circuit of the chain is a bit under 3 revs.

I set the gears to my cruising gear, so they teeth get fresh
lube on them. Could be irrelevant, but why let some other
gear get the bath?

Quoted message said:

i'd taken various portions of chain apart after this and find almost
twice as much waxy deposits in the rollers after a flaming on compared
to just pouring it on.

I bet a hair dryer does as well without risking your eyebrows.

Quoted message said:

obviously, there are those who are too inept to manage this method.
those people have burned holes in their livingroom carpets (OH! THE
HUMANITY!!!!) and burned themselves.

You do bike maintenance on the carpet?

--Blair

RonSonic said:

sal bass said:

i've been using the regular white lightning since 1995. since then
i've tried a bunch of wax based and non wax based lubes.

people say this stuff washes off in the rain. i've not experienced
that. this stuff sticks like crazy to a chain.

people say it builds up on various drivetrain parts. it's only
supposed to be applied to the chain! and in most cases, people apply
WAY too much. simple common sense, if you apply too much it's going to
make a mess.

someone posted about the shelf life...i've have a half gallon thatt's
been on a shelf for about 8 months now. no problems yet.

you really should clean the chain before each application. each
application shoudl last about 100 miles. you'll know when it's time to
apply more as the chain will sound dry. you'll want to clean it and
re-appply before that time.

Cleaning and lubing a chain every two or three day's riding is just stupid when
ordinary cheap motor oil holds up better than that, costs way less and is easier
to clean up.

oh...i've use mobile one and all that stuff...looks like [censored] after a
few rides. who cares if it's cheap and clean up...well...when i have
to wipe down the frame and rims 'becuase that stuff tends to splatter.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

one thing i've found quite handy is....set the chain inteh largest ring
and some middle cog. after the initial application of WL (a steady
stream for 7 pedal revolutions) hold a flame to the chain as you turn
the cranks forward...it'll self extinguish. wipe __VERY__ thoroughly
afterwards with a rag.

the solvet will ignite and it seems capilary action does a good job of
drawing the wax into the rollers.

i'd taken various portions of chain apart after this and find almost
twice as much waxy deposits in the rollers after a flaming on compared
to just pouring it on.

obviously, there are those who are too inept to manage this method.
those people have burned holes in their livingroom carpets (OH! THE
HUMANITY!!!!) and burned themselves.

i've found it works quite well. it's quick and easy.

What is quick and easy about doing that a couple times a week. Sheesh. Squirt
some oil on it while spinning, wipe with a rag. Rub the crud off the jockey
wheels while your at it. Do about once every week or two. No fire drill, or
daily fuss. Wanna get fancy, mix mineral spirits and chainsaw oil and use that.
Cleans up even faster. Still costs a tenth of White Lightning.

it takes me 5 minutes to clean the chain of the old WL. i'd call that
quick and easy.

Quoted message said:

Don't get me wrong, I've used WL and it's good for what it's good for, bikes
that get looked at more than they get ridden.

if looking at my spotless bike gets you thinking i don't ride....well
that's enough to make my week! thanks, Lance.

Bill Sornson said:

sal bass said:

i've been using the regular white lightning since 1995. since then
i've tried a bunch of wax based and non wax based lubes.

people say this stuff washes off in the rain. i've not experienced
that. this stuff sticks like crazy to a chain.

people say it builds up on various drivetrain parts. it's only
supposed to be applied to the chain! and in most cases, people apply
WAY too much. simple common sense, if you apply too much it's going
to make a mess.

someone posted about the shelf life...i've have a half gallon thatt's
been on a shelf for about 8 months now. no problems yet.

HALF A GALLON, GRACIE?!? I like to buy in bulk, too, but that's
ridiculously sublime. (Or sublimely ridi... you get the idea.)

yeah...waaaaaay cheaper than buying it for $10 for 8 oz. as ron Sonic
might assume....

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

you really should clean the chain before each application. each
application shoudl last about 100 miles. you'll know when it's time
to apply more as the chain will sound dry. you'll want to clean it
and re-appply before that time.

one thing i've found quite handy is....set the chain inteh largest
ring and some middle cog. after the initial application of WL (a
steady stream for 7 pedal revolutions) hold a flame to the chain as
you turn the cranks forward...it'll self extinguish. wipe __VERY__
thoroughly afterwards with a rag.

the solvet will ignite and it seems capilary action does a good job of
drawing the wax into the rollers.

i'd taken various portions of chain apart after this and find almost
twice as much waxy deposits in the rollers after a flaming on compared
to just pouring it on.

obviously, there are those who are too inept to manage this method.
those people have burned holes in their livingroom carpets (OH! THE
HUMANITY!!!!) and burned themselves.

i've found it works quite well. it's quick and easy.

I dribble a bit on every 9-10 road rides (before every mtb ride), usually
running chain thru a dry rag first. Every few months I'll spray some WD40
on the rag beforehand.

Why turn the cranks /forward/, BTW? I back-pedal as I apply; never thought
to try setting it all afire after :-D

beore the ride is the worst time to apply the stuff. it won't get time
to dry and typically does a great job of filthing up the chain.

apply after a ride if the chain isn't too dirty.

and WD40 is the perfect way to get the stuff off. it's gentle on the
chain and make the job quick instead of dunking the chain in harsher
than harsh chemicals.

if you turn the cranks backwards and the chain HAPPENS to derail....the
chain will jam and you'll be left with flames that need extinguishing
right away.

this assumes the bike is in a stand and not set upside down or right
side side up on the ground.

Blair P. Houghton said:

sal bass said:

people say this stuff washes off in the rain. i've not experienced
that. this stuff sticks like crazy to a chain.

people say it builds up on various drivetrain parts. it's only
supposed to be applied to the chain! and in most cases, people apply
WAY too much. simple common sense, if you apply too much it's going to
make a mess.

After about a year of using 80-weight hypoid gear oil,
which is easy to apply and smooth as p**** for a while,
but attracts sooty crud like duct tape attracts duct tape,
and transfers it to any fabric (including human skin) that
passes within ten inches and looks askance at it, I've
gone back to WL.

And this time I'm intentionally reapplying every 3-4 rides
without so much as wiping, just to see what the buildup
characteristics are like.

It's only a couple of weeks in, though, so all I can say so far
is that this stuff is not as clean after a week than it is when
it was clean.

three to four rides is fine if the chain starts to get a bit noisy.

but not wiping it afterwards is just asking for trouble....looks as
though you found it.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

someone posted about the shelf life...i've have a half gallon thatt's
been on a shelf for about 8 months now. no problems yet.

My bottle is about 2 years old and lives in an Arizona garage.

It precipitates within a day, but a shake or three turns it back
into what it's supposed to look like.

Quoted message said:

you really should clean the chain before each application. each
application shoudl last about 100 miles. you'll know when it's time to
apply more as the chain will sound dry. you'll want to clean it and
re-appply before that time.

How clean would you recommend? Dishwasher? Chainwasher?
Wipe it with a rag that's wet with degreaser?

just remove the chain from the bike....lay it out on a flat
surface....add a bit of WD to a bursh and scrub between the rollers and
clean the plates. rinse with water and towel or air dry. it sholdn't
take more than 5 - 10 minutes. WD works right away and you won't have
to make but a few passes with the brush.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

one thing i've found quite handy is....set the chain inteh largest ring
and some middle cog. after the initial application of WL (a steady
stream for 7 pedal revolutions)

One circuit of the chain is a bit under 3 revs.

ok......but i think people are just pouring this stuff on like syrup on
a stack of pancakes.

Quoted message said:

I set the gears to my cruising gear, so they teeth get fresh
lube on them. Could be irrelevant, but why let some other
gear get the bath?

because your goal is not to coat the chainrings in lubricant. this is
the reason most seem to have such horrible build up.

inside the rollers are where the chain needs it most. it's where the
wear occurs. i'm sure the plates might show some wear at some
point...but the rollers are where it's at.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

i'd taken various portions of chain apart after this and find almost
twice as much waxy deposits in the rollers after a flaming on compared
to just pouring it on.

I bet a hair dryer does as well without risking your eyebrows.

i've tried a hairdryer....not too bad but it seems the heat from plame
works best. and if you do this outside...you'll have to get a long
extension....just seemed more complicated.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

obviously, there are those who are too inept to manage this method.
those people have burned holes in their livingroom carpets (OH! THE
HUMANITY!!!!) and burned themselves.

You do bike maintenance on the carpet?

nope. wood floors. carpet is so 1980s.

under the stand i've set down some interlocking squares of dense foam
that's sold at hardware stores. mostly to catch stuff that happens to
fall but also to protect the floor. cheap, handy and easy to clean.

sal bass said:

Bill Sornson said:

sal bass said:

i've been using the regular white lightning since 1995. since then
i've tried a bunch of wax based and non wax based lubes.

people say this stuff washes off in the rain. i've not experienced
that. this stuff sticks like crazy to a chain.

people say it builds up on various drivetrain parts. it's only
supposed to be applied to the chain! and in most cases, people
apply WAY too much. simple common sense, if you apply too much
it's going to make a mess.

someone posted about the shelf life...i've have a half gallon
thatt's been on a shelf for about 8 months now. no problems yet.

HALF A GALLON, GRACIE?!? I like to buy in bulk, too, but that's
ridiculously sublime. (Or sublimely ridi... you get the idea.)

yeah...waaaaaay cheaper than buying it for $10 for 8 oz. as ron Sonic
might assume....

Note to self: investigate buying WL in big-ass jugs. (As soon as the 6-7
large bottles I've got laying around are used up in 6-7 years or more.)

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

you really should clean the chain before each application. each
application shoudl last about 100 miles. you'll know when it's time
to apply more as the chain will sound dry. you'll want to clean it
and re-appply before that time.

one thing i've found quite handy is....set the chain inteh largest
ring and some middle cog. after the initial application of WL (a
steady stream for 7 pedal revolutions) hold a flame to the chain as
you turn the cranks forward...it'll self extinguish. wipe __VERY__
thoroughly afterwards with a rag.

the solvet will ignite and it seems capilary action does a good job
of drawing the wax into the rollers.

i'd taken various portions of chain apart after this and find almost
twice as much waxy deposits in the rollers after a flaming on
compared to just pouring it on.

obviously, there are those who are too inept to manage this method.
those people have burned holes in their livingroom carpets (OH! THE
HUMANITY!!!!) and burned themselves.

i've found it works quite well. it's quick and easy.

I dribble a bit on every 9-10 road rides (before every mtb ride),
usually running chain thru a dry rag first. Every few months I'll
spray some WD40 on the rag beforehand.

Why turn the cranks /forward/, BTW? I back-pedal as I apply; never
thought to try setting it all afire after :-D

beore the ride is the worst time to apply the stuff. it won't get
time to dry and typically does a great job of filthing up the chain.

apply after a ride if the chain isn't too dirty.

and WD40 is the perfect way to get the stuff off. it's gentle on the
chain and make the job quick instead of dunking the chain in harsher
than harsh chemicals.

if you turn the cranks backwards and the chain HAPPENS to
derail....the chain will jam and you'll be left with flames that need
extinguishing right away.

this assumes the bike is in a stand and not set upside down or right
side side up on the ground.

My neighbors may be in for an entertaining afternoon soon.

:-P

In-line below...

Tom The Great said:

On Fri, 04 Aug 2006 20:47:12 -0500, richard <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

REPENT!!!!!!!!!

Two big problems with WL:

1. It will build up into a hard-to-clean gunk on your pulleys, chain
rings, and cogs

It seems to fall off. I've tried to 'build it up" but any residue
seems to fall off during a good ride.

as well as fall off in the car, fall off on the floor, and not all of it
falls off

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

2. It has a poor shelf life. It will eventually precipiate. Once it
does that, it is unusable.

Ah, it's in suspension to begin with, shake it and the wax will be in
suspension again.

No! It eventually forms big flakes and resemble a snow globe rather
than flour. That will NOT go into suspension. If you widen the bottle
hole, shake it really hard, then squirt it onto your chain, you will
find that it doesn't work very well.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I'd put up with WL for several years.

I now get a new chain and clean it with Finish Line's EcoTech 2. I then
put a drop of ProLink Gold at each pin (this stuff is stinky when wet
and will bleed through several layers of newspaper!). I wipe off the
excess immediately, wipe again in an hour, and again the next morning.
This results in a clean and dry drive train which will last a few
hundred miles.

Penster said:

I have switched from standard lube to White Lightning and am immediately
impressed. The stuff washes off my hands with soap and water!
Couple of questions. After a wet ride, do you simply wipe the chain and put
some more on. When you want to completly clean the chain to relube it, how
do you do it.
Many thanks.
Mick

tom