S
On Aug 13, 9:24 am, Art Harris <[email protected]> wrote:
> Colin Campbell wrote:
> > Luckily, the spokes are flat bladed (which is no doubt
> > why I'm SOOO fast!), so I could check for torsion. I just went out and
> > overtightened the spoke (I think), then loosened it a bit. I did not
> > observe any twisting in the flat portion of the spoke.
>
> If the same spoke is loosening each time, and it's not due to windup,
> and the problem spoke is at the same tension as all the other left
> side spokes, then possibly there's a flat spot on the rim.
>
> Pluck each of the spokes and listen to the pitch. All the spokes on a
> given side should produce the same pitch (indicating equal tension),
> and the wheel should be true and round. If you can't get it true with
> uniform spoke tension, the rim is probably warped or dinged.
He did say, "I tightened it up to something like the tension of the
other spokes, and rode it some more." Now I realize that lacks the
certainty of a precision Jobstian "tension meter", but if he tensions
it to about the same as the other spokes, and the wheel is true, it
follows that there is no flat spot. My advice is to stick some
locktite or something on the spoke and forget about it. If there is a
flat spot, which must be pretty subtle based on the above, my advice
would still be to stick some locktite or something on the spoke and
forget about it, unless you want to rebuild the wheel with a new rim,
which may or may not result in a worse problem depending on the
expertise of the person doing the rebuilding, and will probably set
him back a couple hundred bucks.
It seems entirely possible to me that with a low spoke count and a
marginal spoke tension, spokes could loosen in an undamaged rim. There
could be something about the rim itself (manufacturing variance, rim
joint, or something) that causes it to flatten a little more at that
spot during regular riding, giving it the opportunity to loosen over
time. I think he could either spend a lot of time and money trying to
get the wheel specs and a tensiometer, and then retension the entire
wheel, or he could just put some locktite on it.
Are we sure that those wheels are not built with spoke prep that may
have been missed on that spoke or deteriorated for whatever reason to
where it no longer works there? Just put some locktite on it.
> Colin Campbell wrote:
> > Luckily, the spokes are flat bladed (which is no doubt
> > why I'm SOOO fast!), so I could check for torsion. I just went out and
> > overtightened the spoke (I think), then loosened it a bit. I did not
> > observe any twisting in the flat portion of the spoke.
>
> If the same spoke is loosening each time, and it's not due to windup,
> and the problem spoke is at the same tension as all the other left
> side spokes, then possibly there's a flat spot on the rim.
>
> Pluck each of the spokes and listen to the pitch. All the spokes on a
> given side should produce the same pitch (indicating equal tension),
> and the wheel should be true and round. If you can't get it true with
> uniform spoke tension, the rim is probably warped or dinged.
He did say, "I tightened it up to something like the tension of the
other spokes, and rode it some more." Now I realize that lacks the
certainty of a precision Jobstian "tension meter", but if he tensions
it to about the same as the other spokes, and the wheel is true, it
follows that there is no flat spot. My advice is to stick some
locktite or something on the spoke and forget about it. If there is a
flat spot, which must be pretty subtle based on the above, my advice
would still be to stick some locktite or something on the spoke and
forget about it, unless you want to rebuild the wheel with a new rim,
which may or may not result in a worse problem depending on the
expertise of the person doing the rebuilding, and will probably set
him back a couple hundred bucks.
It seems entirely possible to me that with a low spoke count and a
marginal spoke tension, spokes could loosen in an undamaged rim. There
could be something about the rim itself (manufacturing variance, rim
joint, or something) that causes it to flatten a little more at that
spot during regular riding, giving it the opportunity to loosen over
time. I think he could either spend a lot of time and money trying to
get the wheel specs and a tensiometer, and then retension the entire
wheel, or he could just put some locktite on it.
Are we sure that those wheels are not built with spoke prep that may
have been missed on that spoke or deteriorated for whatever reason to
where it no longer works there? Just put some locktite on it.
