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Will I ever get proper shifting from this combo?

Started by Johan Bornman · · Last activity · 17 posts · 485 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
1 September 2006
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7 September 2006
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Johan Bornman
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  1. I have a persistent shifting problem on my 7-speed downtube shifter
    bike.

    The shifter is Shimano, the sprockets are Sachs Mailard on a freewheel.
    The rear deraileur is a modern Shimano Tiagra. I use index mode when on
    the shifter.

    The problem is many-fold: in the higher gears, the shifter starts to
    creep, eventually causing a half downshift so that the chain rides on
    top of the sprocket. If I shift quickly fast up and down, I find that
    the chain rides on top of the sprocket - again on the downshift only.
    With a bit of maneuvering of the shifter, I can get it to drop into the
    cogs.

    Then, when shifting up, the highest two or three gears produce perfect
    shifting, but the higher I go, the noisier the chain gets, to a point
    where it seems as if it wants to shift up by itself.

    The shifter is new, with only a thousand or so kms behind it. However,
    it feels as if there is quite a bit of play in each click setting,
    enough play to force it a gear up without it clicking into the next
    gear shift. I never had the opportunity to familiarise myself with its
    play when it was new, since I then had a Suntour Superbe Pro rear
    deraileur on there, working with friction shift.

    I'm confident that the cable runs smoothly and that the noodle at the
    back doesn't have too much friction.

    Johan Bornman

  2. Johan Bornman said:

    I have a persistent shifting problem on my 7-speed downtube shifter
    bike.

    The shifter is Shimano, the sprockets are Sachs Mailard on a freewheel.
    The rear deraileur is a modern Shimano Tiagra. I use index mode when on
    the shifter.

    The problem is many-fold: in the higher gears, the shifter starts to
    creep, eventually causing a half downshift so that the chain rides on
    top of the sprocket. If I shift quickly fast up and down, I find that
    the chain rides on top of the sprocket - again on the downshift only.
    With a bit of maneuvering of the shifter, I can get it to drop into the
    cogs.

    Then, when shifting up, the highest two or three gears produce perfect
    shifting, but the higher I go, the noisier the chain gets, to a point
    where it seems as if it wants to shift up by itself.

    The shifter is new, with only a thousand or so kms behind it. However,
    it feels as if there is quite a bit of play in each click setting,
    enough play to force it a gear up without it clicking into the next
    gear shift. I never had the opportunity to familiarise myself with its
    play when it was new, since I then had a Suntour Superbe Pro rear
    deraileur on there, working with friction shift.

    I'm confident that the cable runs smoothly and that the noodle at the
    back doesn't have too much friction.

    1) Are you sure the particular freewheel you're using is index
    compatible?

    2) If it is, realize that some older "index compatible" freewheels have
    tooth patterns that make them fussy to set up (I've had problems with
    some Regina FWs, for example).

    3) Your derailluer hanger may be slightly bent, have a properly
    equipped shop check it. Not a big issue with friction shifting, but
    noticable when indexed.

  3. Johan Bornman said:


    The problem is many-fold: in the higher gears, the shifter starts to
    creep, eventually causing a half downshift so that the chain rides on
    top of the sprocket. If I shift quickly fast up and down, I find that
    the chain rides on top of the sprocket - again on the downshift only.
    With a bit of maneuvering of the shifter, I can get it to drop into the
    cogs.

    Then, when shifting up, the highest two or three gears produce perfect
    shifting, but the higher I go, the noisier the chain gets, to a point
    where it seems as if it wants to shift up by itself.

    The shifter is new, with only a thousand or so kms behind it. However,
    it feels as if there is quite a bit of play in each click setting,
    enough play to force it a gear up without it clicking into the next
    gear shift. I never had the opportunity to familiarise myself with its
    play when it was new, since I then had a Suntour Superbe Pro rear
    deraileur on there, working with friction shift.

    I'm confident that the cable runs smoothly and that the noodle at the
    back doesn't have too much friction.

    Johan Bornman

    I had similar issues with my first set of 7-speed Shimano bar-end
    shifters, many, many years ago (1991-ish). I fixed it by tightening the
    hold-down screw to about twice Shimano's recommeded torque. After that,
    shifting was flawless. Use a big screwdriver that fits the slot
    closely.

    Jeff


  4. Quoted message said:

    1) Are you sure the particular freewheel you're using is index
    compatible?

    No, I'm not sure. All I know is that it's a Sachs-Mailard and has seven
    sprockets.

    Quoted message said:


    2) If it is, realize that some older "index compatible" freewheels have
    tooth patterns that make them fussy to set up (I've had problems with
    some Regina FWs, for example).

    Where does the fussiness come in to play? Do they really work with the
    Shimano components I listed?

    Quoted message said:

    3) Your derailluer hanger may be slightly bent, have a properly
    equipped shop check it. Not a big issue with friction shifting, but
    noticable when indexed.

    How does a bent hanger affect shifting?

    JB

  5. Johan Bornman said:
    Quoted message said:

    1) Are you sure the particular freewheel you're using is index
    compatible?

    No, I'm not sure. All I know is that it's a Sachs-Mailard and has seven
    sprockets.

    I believe that all S-M 7SP freewheels were index compatible, but I'm
    not absolutely certain. Do you know when it was made?

    Also, make sure the cogs are on the freewheel body in the proper
    orientation. Some designs (e.g., Reginas) allow you to put a cog on
    "backwards". I'm not sure if this is true of a 7SP Sachs.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    2) If it is, realize that some older "index compatible" freewheels have
    tooth patterns that make them fussy to set up (I've had problems with
    some Regina FWs, for example).

    Where does the fussiness come in to play?

    The tooth designs of some older freewheel sprockets shift less
    precisely than things like Shimano Hyperglide or even the older
    Uniglide.

    Quoted message said:

    Do they really work with the
    Shimano components I listed?

    Yes, but they may be much less tolerant of small amounts of
    mis-adjustment/mis-alignment. I have some early 90s 7 and 8SP
    freewheels that I occasionally use, and everything needs to be "just
    so" to get good shifting quality.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    3) Your derailluer hanger may be slightly bent, have a properly
    equipped shop check it. Not a big issue with friction shifting, but
    noticable when indexed.

    How does a bent hanger affect shifting?


    It changes the position/alignment of the jockey pulley relative to the
    sprockets. One symptom of this is that you may be able get the bike to
    shift fine in the small ring, but not the large ring. Or vice versa.

    If possible, try putting on a different freewheel, one with modern
    tooth design and see what happens. If the symptoms persist, have the
    derailleur hanger alignment checked.

    Oh, one last thing: try putting a new piece of "compressionless"
    derailleur cable housing on the bike. Some older housings that work
    fine in friction mode can cause problems with indaxed shifting.

    Let us know how it goes.

  6. Quoted message said:

    It changes the position/alignment of the jockey pulley relative to the
    sprockets. One symptom of this is that you may be able get the bike to
    shift fine in the small ring, but not the large ring. Or vice versa.

    That mirrors my experience. It shifts fine in the higher gears but
    going up to the lower gears causes problems, even skipping.

    Quoted message said:

    If possible, try putting on a different freewheel, one with modern
    tooth design and see what happens. If the symptoms persist, have the
    derailleur hanger alignment checked.

    Hmmm...easier said than done. I may have to build a new wheel to do
    this.

    Quoted message said:

    Oh, one last thing: try putting a new piece of "compressionless"
    derailleur cable housing on the bike. Some older housings that work
    fine in friction mode can cause problems with indaxed shifting.

    Let us know how it goes.

    Thanks,

    JB

  7. Johan Bornman said:
    Quoted message said:

    It changes the position/alignment of the jockey pulley relative to the
    sprockets. One symptom of this is that you may be able get the bike to
    shift fine in the small ring, but not the large ring. Or vice versa.

    That mirrors my experience. It shifts fine in the higher gears but
    going up to the lower gears causes problems, even skipping.

    Quoted message said:

    If possible, try putting on a different freewheel, one with modern
    tooth design and see what happens. If the symptoms persist, have the
    derailleur hanger alignment checked.

    Hmmm...easier said than done. I may have to build a new wheel to do
    this.

    I'm not sure I understand. Is the freewheel seized onto the hub?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Oh, one last thing: try putting a new piece of "compressionless"
    derailleur cable housing on the bike. Some older housings that work
    fine in friction mode can cause problems with indaxed shifting.

    Let us know how it goes.

    Thanks,

    JB

  8. Quoted message said:


    I'm not sure I understand. Is the freewheel seized onto the hub?

    No, it isn't seized. It's just that that freewheel on there is the very
    last one in the world, if I listen to the bike shops around here. I
    cannot get any more, so putting a new one on equates to me building a
    new wheel with a freehub.

    I have been replacing worn sprockets on this freewheel with an
    incredible combination of [censored] sprockets from different
    manufacturers. At present I'm cannibalising a Sachs-Mailard 8-speed
    for its sprockets - after that, it's over to newer technology...circa
    1990s perhaps.

    JB

  9. Johan Bornman said:
    Quoted message said:


    I'm not sure I understand. Is the freewheel seized onto the hub?

    No, it isn't seized. It's just that that freewheel on there is the very
    last one in the world, if I listen to the bike shops around here. I
    cannot get any more, so putting a new one on equates to me building a
    new wheel with a freehub.

    7SP freewheels are readily available. In fact, Shimano released a new
    design about 5-6 years ago. And many inexpensive bikes come with
    freewheels, not cassettes.

    Quoted message said:

    I have been replacing worn sprockets on this freewheel with an
    incredible combination of [censored] sprockets from different
    manufacturers.

    Aha! That may be the cause of your shifting problems. You can do this
    sort of thing with friction shifting, but not wirh indexed shifting.

    Quoted message said:

    At present I'm cannibalising a Sachs-Mailard 8-speed
    for its sprockets - after that, it's over to newer technology...circa
    1990s perhaps.

    JB

  10. Johan Bornman said:


    Quoted message said:


    I'm not sure I understand. Is the freewheel seized onto the hub?

    No, it isn't seized. It's just that that freewheel on there is the very
    last one in the world, if I listen to the bike shops around here. I
    cannot get any more, so putting a new one on equates to me building a
    new wheel with a freehub.

    I've got an LBS that I love that doesn't tell me stinking piles of lying
    [censored] like that. Then there's the other ones. You've got one of the other
    ones.

    Nashbar has 'em, anybody with a QBP catalog's got 'em. Cool old LBS's with back
    rooms have NOS. And, yes they make freewheels with modern notches and cams and
    chain lifty ramps and stuff.

    Say no to the yuppie traps.

    Quoted message said:

    I have been replacing worn sprockets on this freewheel with an
    incredible combination of [censored] sprockets from different
    manufacturers. At present I'm cannibalising a Sachs-Mailard 8-speed
    for its sprockets - after that, it's over to newer technology...circa
    1990s perhaps.

    Only if you want to.

    Ron

  11. Johan Bornman said:
    Quoted message said:


    I'm not sure I understand. Is the freewheel seized onto the hub?

    No, it isn't seized. It's just that that freewheel on there is the very
    last one in the world, if I listen to the bike shops around here.

    Quoted message said:


    JB

    What are you bid for the one in my Basement?

    NOS as is came on a wheel and I replaced it with Dura-Ace before it had
    turned more than a test ride.

  12. Johan Bornman said:
    Quoted message said:


    I'm not sure I understand. Is the freewheel seized onto the hub?

    No, it isn't seized. It's just that that freewheel on there is the very
    last one in the world, if I listen to the bike shops around here.

    Quoted message said:


    JB

    What are you bid for the one in my Basement?

    NOS as is came on a wheel and I replaced it with Dura-Ace before it had
    turned more than a test ride.


  13. Quoted message said:


    What are you bid for the one in my Basement?

    NOS as is came on a wheel and I replaced it with Dura-Ace before it had
    turned more than a test ride.

    What ratios? I'l like something like a 13 to 23 or 25.

    What country are you in?

    I'm in South Africa.

    JB

  14. RonSonic said:
    Quoted message said:

    Nashbar has 'em, anybody with a QBP catalog's got 'em. Cool old LBS's with back


    rooms have NOS. And, yes they make freewheels with modern notches and cams and
    chain lifty ramps and stuff.

    Say no to the yuppie traps.

    I can assure you of the latter, otherwise I'd be asking questions about
    10-speed life-span etc.

    The only 7-speed freewheels I can find are Shimano 14-32 ones. They're
    also pretty crude, with a twisted tooth design instead of ramps. The
    problem with these is 1. that 32-tooth sprocket (too big for my
    deraileur) and 2. that 14-tooth sprocket (not small enough).

    What is a QBP catalogue?

    JB

  15. Johan Bornman said:
    Quoted message said:


    What are you bid for the one in my Basement?

    NOS as is came on a wheel and I replaced it with Dura-Ace before it had
    turned more than a test ride.

    What ratios? I'l like something like a 13 to 23 or 25.

    What country are you in?

    I'm in South Africa.

    JB

    If memory serves it is 13 25, I'll check. Since I'm in Canada and you
    probably wont be buying from the same people as me if you find a
    Dura-Ace 7 speed thread on (Uniglide) you can give that a try (IMO best
    shifting ever with 7 speed XT (DX ) or Dura-Ace). Heck if you see one
    for sale let me know and I'll buy it.. I'm down to one spare now..

  16. Johan Bornman said:
    RonSonic said:
    Quoted message said:

    Nashbar has 'em, anybody with a QBP catalog's got 'em. Cool old LBS's with back


    rooms have NOS. And, yes they make freewheels with modern notches and cams and
    chain lifty ramps and stuff.

    Say no to the yuppie traps.

    I can assure you of the latter, otherwise I'd be asking questions about
    10-speed life-span etc.

    The only 7-speed freewheels I can find are Shimano 14-32 ones. They're
    also pretty crude, with a twisted tooth design instead of ramps.

    The twist tooth design is called Uniglide. That design shifts quite
    well and puts less lateral stress on chains than Hyperglide and it's
    imitators. If you can find a Uniglide FW in the ratios you want, don't
    hesitate to buy it.

    Quoted message said:

    The
    problem with these is 1. that 32-tooth sprocket (too big for my
    deraileur) and 2. that 14-tooth sprocket (not small enough).

    What is a QBP catalogue?


    QBP is a distributor used by nearly all bike shops in the US. QBP
    sells to the shop, the shop sells to you.

    Are you willing to buy from a US source? Or do shipping and customs
    make that cost prohibitive?

    If a US source is workable for you, look at this:

    http://tinyurl.com/kae69

    a 13-24 7SP freewheel with hyperglide cogs for US$20

  17. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Are you willing to buy from a US source? Or do shipping and customs


    make that cost prohibitive?

    If a US source is workable for you, look at this:

    http://tinyurl.com/kae69

    a 13-24 7SP freewheel with hyperglide cogs for US$20

    We have zero tarriffs and zero duties on bicycle part imports, only 14%
    VAT. $20 US is very reasonable, even if I double that to take care of
    shipping. I'll definitely have a look at your source.

    Thanks
    JB

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