Calif. Winemakers Best French Rivals
By MICHELLE LOCKE
AP
NAPA, Calif. (AP) - French and California winemakers marked the 30th
anniversary of the storied Paris tasting with another sip-and-spit
showdown.
California won - and by more than a nose.
Native wines took the top five of 10 spots, with a 1971 Ridge Monte
Bello cabernet sauvignon from the Santa Cruz mountains coming out on
top Wednesday.
"Today was a snapshot in time and all the stars were aligned properly.
We had a lot of fun," said Peter Marks, director of wine at Copia, the
Napa Valley wine and arts center where the New World end of the tasting
was held. A European panel of tasters met at a London wine merchant to
give their rating.
The May 24, 1976 tasting known as the Judgment of Paris is considered a
milestone in the American wine industry because it shattered the
perception that the New World was capable only of producing cheap bulk
wines.
It was put together by Steven Spurrier, an English wine merchant who
owned a shop and wine school in Paris. Spurrier, now a wine consultant,
also was co-organizer of Wednesday's rematch.
The tasting was in two parts, with judges re-evaluating the original
reds and then tasting a variety of modern reds and whites from both
countries. (Whites don't generally age well and weren't part of the
re-enactment.)
Back in '76, it was a complete surprise when California wines
outclassed the French. A Stag's Leap 1973 cabernet sauvignon was top
red and another Napa Valley wine, a Chateau Montelena 1973 chardonnay,
took top white.
Tellingly, the judges were unable to distinguish the French and
California wines, although they thought they could.
Spurrier staged a re-tasting for the 1986 anniversary, and California
wines again took top places, although the No. 1 red then was a Clos du
Val 1972 cabernet sauvignon.
The 30-year anniversary tasting sparked controversy, with some wineries
on both sides of the Atlantic reluctant to have their new vintages
tasted blind, a high stakes game in which someone has to come out last.
In a compromise, the re-enactment tasting was blind, but the new wines
were identified by country so there was no direct competition.
Top French white was a Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru des Pucelles 2002
Domaine Leflaive; for California it was a Talley Rosemary's Vineyard
2002. Top French red was a Chateau Margaux 2000 and the leading
California red was a Ridge Monte Bello 2000.
"It's just beautiful," said Christian Vanneque, who was a judge at the
'76 Paris tasting and again Wednesday in Napa. "It shows that these
California wines ... did win also the test of time."
On the Net: http://www.copia.org/content/node/460
Copyright 2006 The Associated Press. 05/25/06 13:02 EDT
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