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Worn Cassette

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Cycling Equipment
Published
14 September 2006
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15 September 2006
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cyclingguy
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  1. Jan Lindstrom said:
    Mike Jacoubowsky said:

    From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-

    Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.

    Do the 10 speed cassettes wear that fast? All the 7 and 9 speed Shimano
    Sora and 105 casettes I've used have lasted more than 15 000 kms, in
    fact I haven't even worn one enough to replace it. I'm glad I've stayed
    out of 10 speed, if they should be replaced in less than 10 000 kms.

    Jan

    Perhaps the "used" cassette being removed from the OP's hub will last
    the same mileage you acheived after it is afixed to the tech's bike.

  2. Donald Gillies said:

    1500 miles is a RIDICULOUSLY low life expectation for dura-ace
    cassette and chain. Were you riding in ONE GEAR the entire time, or
    shifting between TWO GEARS every other second, while climbing hills?

    I think your bike shop has cashflow problems this month, you probably
    want to go there, collect your old and new chains, old cassette, and
    try a different bike shop.

    Agreed. Seems to me that they are trying to take advantage of someone
    they view as naive and trusting. The chain wear I can *maybe* believe,
    but not the cassette. The high retail prices of DA parts make this kind
    of scam attractive and lucrative.

  3. R Brickston said:
    Jan Lindstrom said:
    Mike Jacoubowsky said:

    From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-

    Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.

    Do the 10 speed cassettes wear that fast? All the 7 and 9 speed Shimano
    Sora and 105 casettes I've used have lasted more than 15 000 kms, in
    fact I haven't even worn one enough to replace it. I'm glad I've stayed
    out of 10 speed, if they should be replaced in less than 10 000 kms.

    Jan

    Perhaps the "used" cassette being removed from the OP's hub will last
    the same mileage you acheived after it is afixed to the tech's bike.

    BINGO!

  4. Lou Holtman said:
    Quoted message said:
    Lou Holtman said:

    [email hidden] wrote:

    >On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 19:06:43 +0200, Lou Holtman
    ><[email hidden]> wrote:
    >
    >
    >
    >>Jan Lindstrom wrote:
    >>
    >>
    >>>Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>>From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-
    >>>
    >>>>Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    >>>>actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>Do the 10 speed cassettes wear that fast? All the 7 and 9 speed Shimano
    >>>Sora and 105 casettes I've used have lasted more than 15 000 kms, in
    >>>fact I haven't even worn one enough to replace it. I'm glad I've stayed
    >>>out of 10 speed, if they should be replaced in less than 10 000 kms.
    >>
    >>Well mine don't wear that fast. In the beginning of this season I
    >>replaced the smallest 6 cogs of my Record 10 speed cassette after 20000
    >>km. I kept the 4 largest Ti cogs which I don't use that much. I bought a
    >>new Veloce cassette to donate the 6 smallest cogs. Very cheap.
    >>
    >>
    >>Lou
    >
    >Dear Lou,
    >
    >This is a nice illustration of how variety leads to different results.
    >
    >If you spent most of your time trudging along as I do in 53x11 at only
    >20-25 mph, the low chain-speed/high-chain-tension would lead you to
    >replace the 11-tooth after only 3,000 miles or less.
    >
    >If I spent my time using more and larger gears at a higher cadence and
    >lower chain tension as you probably do, I'd have a much smaller
    >collection of 7-speed cassettes. It's not much more expensive to grit
    >my teeth and replace the whole cassette than to buy that single
    >11-tooth.
    >
    >I've never worn out any but my smallest rear sprocket. When I had a
    >Sachs cassette that only went to 12 teeth, I had a small box full of
    >worn-out 12-tooth Sachs cogs. The Sachs 12-tooth wore much faster than
    >the Shimano 11-tooth, but was easier to replace.
    >
    >Cheers,
    >
    >Carl Fogel

    Yes, Carl you are right about that variety leads to different results.
    On my singlespeed I run a 44 x 16 gear and a SRAM PC48 chain. I use the
    same cleaning and lube regime as I do on my Campy 10 speed equiped road
    bike. The chain on my singlespeed is worn only after only 1500 km where
    as my C10 chains last close to 10000 km. Do you have an explanation for
    that Carl.

    Lou

    Dear Lou,

    That's interesting.

    I've run PC48 chain without such rapid wear, so I wonder if the
    difference has anything to do with the different transmission.

    Is your single-speed a fixie or a freewheeler?

    It's a freewheeler.

    Quoted message said:


    If it's a fixie, I'd wonder if you do a lot of starting-up and
    pedal-braking around town and if that relatively high-chain-tension
    riding is part of the explanation.

    Have you worn out your single-speed's 16-tooth, or is it just the
    chains?

    No, the 16-tooth cog (not a specific singlespeed one) is also worn. I'm
    wondering what's is wearing out what. The cog the chain or the chain the
    cog. It is my second chain that wears so fast on my singlespeed. The
    first chain was a connex stainless steel one. That was a waste of money,
    so I bought a cheap PC48 and I keep running it untill it starts skipping.
    Maybe I should stop wondering about it. It is only 20 euro for a new cog
    and chain, but I am still suprised I get such a good mileage on my
    roadbike and such a bad mileage on my singlespeed.

    Lou

    Dear Lou,

    It's a freewheeler, so braking loads aren't involved.

    The culprit might be chain tension. If the chain is too tight, then it
    will wear rapidly.

    The chain will also wear rapidly if the tension looks good, but the
    gears are unusually out-of-round and cycle around to create a tight
    spot.

    Sheldon Brown has a page about adjusting chain tension for single
    speed, but the www.harriscyclery.com site still seems to be down.

    Of course, if you're using a spring-loaded tensioner on a single-speed
    freewheeler, then chain tension isn't the problem.

    It could be a bad batch of pc48 chains, but only 1500km/900 miles
    seems like an awfully short chain life.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  5. Quoted message said:
    R Brickston said:
    Jan Lindstrom said:

    Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:

    >From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-
    >
    >Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    >actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.

    Do the 10 speed cassettes wear that fast? All the 7 and 9 speed Shimano
    Sora and 105 casettes I've used have lasted more than 15 000 kms, in
    fact I haven't even worn one enough to replace it. I'm glad I've stayed
    out of 10 speed, if they should be replaced in less than 10 000 kms.

    Jan

    Perhaps the "used" cassette being removed from the OP's hub will last
    the same mileage you acheived after it is afixed to the tech's bike.

    BINGO!

    Wow, the tech is already convicted before proven guilty? Chains and
    cassettes can be worn after 1500 miles. The best thing for the OP to do
    is to get a new chain leave the cassette and see what happens.

    Lou
    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu

  6. Quoted message said:
    Lou Holtman said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 20:19:48 +0200, Lou Holtman
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    >[email hidden] wrote:
    >
    >
    >>On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 19:06:43 +0200, Lou Holtman
    >><[email hidden]> wrote:
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>>Jan Lindstrom wrote:
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>>Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>>From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>>Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    >>>>>actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>Do the 10 speed cassettes wear that fast? All the 7 and 9 speed Shimano
    >>>>Sora and 105 casettes I've used have lasted more than 15 000 kms, in
    >>>>fact I haven't even worn one enough to replace it. I'm glad I've stayed
    >>>>out of 10 speed, if they should be replaced in less than 10 000 kms.
    >>>
    >>>Well mine don't wear that fast. In the beginning of this season I
    >>>replaced the smallest 6 cogs of my Record 10 speed cassette after 20000
    >>>km. I kept the 4 largest Ti cogs which I don't use that much. I bought a
    >>>new Veloce cassette to donate the 6 smallest cogs. Very cheap.
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>Lou
    >>
    >>Dear Lou,
    >>
    >>This is a nice illustration of how variety leads to different results.
    >>
    >>If you spent most of your time trudging along as I do in 53x11 at only
    >>20-25 mph, the low chain-speed/high-chain-tension would lead you to
    >>replace the 11-tooth after only 3,000 miles or less.
    >>
    >>If I spent my time using more and larger gears at a higher cadence and
    >>lower chain tension as you probably do, I'd have a much smaller
    >>collection of 7-speed cassettes. It's not much more expensive to grit
    >>my teeth and replace the whole cassette than to buy that single
    >>11-tooth.
    >>
    >>I've never worn out any but my smallest rear sprocket. When I had a
    >>Sachs cassette that only went to 12 teeth, I had a small box full of
    >>worn-out 12-tooth Sachs cogs. The Sachs 12-tooth wore much faster than
    >>the Shimano 11-tooth, but was easier to replace.
    >>
    >>Cheers,
    >>
    >>Carl Fogel
    >
    >
    >Yes, Carl you are right about that variety leads to different results.
    >On my singlespeed I run a 44 x 16 gear and a SRAM PC48 chain. I use the
    >same cleaning and lube regime as I do on my Campy 10 speed equiped road
    >bike. The chain on my singlespeed is worn only after only 1500 km where
    >as my C10 chains last close to 10000 km. Do you have an explanation for
    >that Carl.
    >
    >Lou

    Dear Lou,

    That's interesting.

    I've run PC48 chain without such rapid wear, so I wonder if the
    difference has anything to do with the different transmission.

    Is your single-speed a fixie or a freewheeler?

    It's a freewheeler.

    Quoted message said:

    If it's a fixie, I'd wonder if you do a lot of starting-up and
    pedal-braking around town and if that relatively high-chain-tension
    riding is part of the explanation.

    Have you worn out your single-speed's 16-tooth, or is it just the
    chains?

    No, the 16-tooth cog (not a specific singlespeed one) is also worn. I'm
    wondering what's is wearing out what. The cog the chain or the chain the
    cog. It is my second chain that wears so fast on my singlespeed. The
    first chain was a connex stainless steel one. That was a waste of money,
    so I bought a cheap PC48 and I keep running it untill it starts skipping.
    Maybe I should stop wondering about it. It is only 20 euro for a new cog
    and chain, but I am still suprised I get such a good mileage on my
    roadbike and such a bad mileage on my singlespeed.

    Lou

    Dear Lou,

    It's a freewheeler, so braking loads aren't involved.

    The culprit might be chain tension. If the chain is too tight, then it
    will wear rapidly.

    The chain will also wear rapidly if the tension looks good, but the
    gears are unusually out-of-round and cycle around to create a tight
    spot.

    Sheldon Brown has a page about adjusting chain tension for single
    speed, but the www.harriscyclery.com site still seems to be down.

    Of course, if you're using a spring-loaded tensioner on a single-speed
    freewheeler, then chain tension isn't the problem.

    It could be a bad batch of pc48 chains, but only 1500km/900 miles
    seems like an awfully short chain life.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    I use a spring loaded tensioner and have a perfect chainline but
    I have to correct myself. I have checked my log and this chain has
    almost 4000 km on it. Not so bad after all but still half of the mileage
    I get out of a chain on my roadbike.
    Sorry for confusion; to many bikes ;-)

    Lou
    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu

  7. Lou Holtman said:
    Quoted message said:
    R Brickston said:

    On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 19:32:48 +0300, Jan Lindstrom
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    >Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
    >
    >
    >>From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-
    >>
    >>Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    >>actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.
    >
    >Do the 10 speed cassettes wear that fast? All the 7 and 9 speed Shimano
    >Sora and 105 casettes I've used have lasted more than 15 000 kms, in
    >fact I haven't even worn one enough to replace it. I'm glad I've stayed
    >out of 10 speed, if they should be replaced in less than 10 000 kms.
    >
    >Jan

    Perhaps the "used" cassette being removed from the OP's hub will last
    the same mileage you acheived after it is afixed to the tech's bike.

    BINGO!

    Wow, the tech is already convicted before proven guilty?

    That's why I used the word "perhaps." If he goes the replacement
    route, he should make sure he gets the old stuff back. If he is told,
    "It got tossed," I would view that with suspicion.

    Quoted message said:

    Chains and
    cassettes can be worn after 1500 miles. The best thing for the OP to do
    is to get a new chain leave the cassette and see what happens.

    Lou

  8. Lou Holtman said:
    Quoted message said:
    R Brickston said:

    On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 19:32:48 +0300, Jan Lindstrom
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    >Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
    >
    >
    >>From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-
    >>
    >>Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    >>actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.
    >
    >Do the 10 speed cassettes wear that fast? All the 7 and 9 speed Shimano
    >Sora and 105 casettes I've used have lasted more than 15 000 kms, in
    >fact I haven't even worn one enough to replace it. I'm glad I've stayed
    >out of 10 speed, if they should be replaced in less than 10 000 kms.
    >
    >Jan

    Perhaps the "used" cassette being removed from the OP's hub will last
    the same mileage you acheived after it is afixed to the tech's bike.

    BINGO!

    Wow, the tech is already convicted before proven guilty?

    Not quite "convicted", but I'm highly suspicious.

    Quoted message said:

    Chains and
    cassettes can be worn after 1500 miles.

    Chains? Possibly. Cassettes? *Maybe* a cog or two, if the OP doesn't
    shift much, but the whole cassette? Not likely.

    Quoted message said:

    The best thing for the OP to do
    is to get a new chain leave the cassette and see what happens.

    Agreed. And to check the original chain for wear.

  9. R Brickston rb20170REMOVE.yahoo.com@ said:

    On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 22:52:06 +0200, Lou Holtman
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    >
    >Perhaps the "used" cassette being removed from the OP's hub will last
    >the same mileage you acheived after it is afixed to the tech's bike.

    BINGO!

    Wow, the tech is already convicted before proven guilty?

    Perhaps the tech is telling the truth? The cassette has already been
    swapped with the tech's cassette, and indeed, the cassette on the OP's
    bike is indeed now worn out and in need of replacement ... *grin* ...

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA

  10. Quoted message said:

    Mike, you don't pay $175 for DA or $75 for ultegra or $20 for a
    chain...it's great that you quote retail prices but there HAS to be
    some reason to own a bike shop-

    Well... what about those times where my cost is more than I can buy it from
    a mail-order house? Sigh.

    --Mike Jacoubowsky
    Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReaction.com
    Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

    "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Mike, you don't pay $175 for DA or $75 for ultegra or $20 for a
    chain...it's great that you quote retail prices but there HAS to be
    some reason to own a bike shop-

    Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    > From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-
    >
    > Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    > actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.
    > That means one $75 cassette and four $20 chains. $155 total.
    >
    > Replace chain and cassette every 6000 miles, $75 + $20 for $95 total.

    The OP has (10-speed?) Dura Ace, so won't a cassette cost quite a bit
    more
    than $75?

    Sorry, I was thinking Ultegra. Bike shop owners can't afford DuraAce. At
    least not when they have a daughter just starting college.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

    "Bill Sornson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:

    > From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-
    >
    > Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    > actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.
    > That means one $75 cassette and four $20 chains. $155 total.
    >
    > Replace chain and cassette every 6000 miles, $75 + $20 for $95 total.

    The OP has (10-speed?) Dura Ace, so won't a cassette cost quite a bit
    more
    than $75?

    Otherwise, I agree with all you wrote -- and indeed, I just don't think
    a
    rear cassette should need replacing after 1500 miles (as you point out
    below).

    >
    > So it's costing me an additional $60 to have a better-shifting
    > drivetrain, per 6k miles. Negating a fair amount of that is that my
    > chainrings will last much longer.
    >
    > Having said all that, I don't understand why a shop would suggest
    > replacing a rear cassette without having even tried a new chain on it
    > first. Especially with relatively-low mileage on it. I'm all for
    > replacing chains early & often, but not cassettes.
    >
    > Hmm. I should also point out that shops often have no reliable means
    > of testing a new chain under the same conditions as the rider
    > (perhaps the skipping happens only on climbs and only with a very
    > heavy rider, for example). So we get bikes that, on our test rides,
    > work just fine, but the customer gets to his favorite rolling hill
    > and his 230lb diesel body does things that cause the chain to skip,
    > and he comes back mad at us because we didn't either find the problem
    > or realize it would likely happen and replace the setup as a
    > preventive measure.
    > Hate that.
    >
    > --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    > www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
    >
    >
    > "Bill Sornson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    > news:[email hidden]...
    >> cyclingguy wrote:
    >>> I just took my road bike in for a simple tune up and received a
    >>> call a few hours later from the bike shop informing me that I
    >>> needed a new chain. I agreed and so I told them to please replace
    >>> the chain (had approx 1500 miles on it). A short time later I was
    >>> told that because the chain was so worn out it had destroyed my
    >>> rear cassette (dura ace). They suggested I replace it before I did
    >>> futher damage to the drive train (front chain rings). They said
    >>> that the teeth on the rear cassette have been worn to the point
    >>> where a new chain simply wouldn't seat in the old cassette teeth
    >>> and would be skipping all over the place.
    >>>
    >>> Is this true? I have never heard of such a thing. The bike (Fuji
    >>> Professional, Dura Ace components) has about 1500 miles on it total.
    >>>
    >>> Any input or advice will be greatly appreciated.
    >>
    >> While it's often true that a worn chain has trashed the cassette (and
    >> possibly a chain ring, esp. on a mtb), and that a new chain WILL
    >> skip due to that, this should /not/ be the case in only 1500 road
    >> miles. If I were you, I'd keep both and ride /many/ more miles on
    >> that
    >> drivetrain. (Don't tell me, let me guess: they're going to tell you
    >> that they already tossed the old chain? If they do that, FIND A NEW
    >> BIKE SHOP! And tell them why as you head out the door...)
    >>
    >> If by chance they haven't removed your chain yet, tell them you'll
    >> think about it and go get the bike. You can measure the chain for
    >> wear yourself -- s/b 12" rivet to rivet; anything over 1/16th inch
    >> "stretch" and replace it. Again, this should not happen in so few
    >> miles -- certainly not enough to ruin your cluster. (Assuming
    >> decent conditions?) Was it working OK before you took it in? Any
    >> skipping? Shifting OK?
    >>
    >> Don't quote me, but I think they're hosing you.
    >>
    >> BTW, it's good -- real good -- to learn how to replace a chain and
    >> even a cassette yourself. Then you can shop around for a good deal
    >> on the components -- especially high-end ones like DuraAce.
    >>
    >> Good luck.
    >>
    >> Bill S.


  11. Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    Mike, you don't pay $175 for DA or $75 for ultegra or $20 for a
    chain...it's great that you quote retail prices but there HAS to be
    some reason to own a bike shop-

    Well... what about those times where my cost is more than I can buy it from
    a mail-order house? Sigh.

    That's happening less recently, right? Especially with Shimano.

  12. Quoted message said:


    Donald Gillies said:

    1500 miles is a RIDICULOUSLY low life expectation for dura-ace
    cassette and chain. Were you riding in ONE GEAR the entire time, or
    shifting between TWO GEARS every other second, while climbing hills?

    I think your bike shop has cashflow problems this month, you probably
    want to go there, collect your old and new chains, old cassette, and
    try a different bike shop.

    Agreed. Seems to me that they are trying to take advantage of someone
    they view as naive and trusting. The chain wear I can *maybe* believe,
    but not the cassette. The high retail prices of DA parts make this kind
    of scam attractive and lucrative.

    I was in a bike shop the other day and I heard the worn chain scam.
    They did not measure the chain. They did not ask if it was skipping or
    shifting poorly. They just told the guy he needed a new chain and
    cassette. Just because the guy walked in to the shop with a blown out
    tire and tube and a chain he did not know to clean and lube. I doubt
    the guy was strong enough to wear out the chain except for the lack of
    lube. Even then you should check first.

    On the other hand I replace chains sometime. I have had to replace
    everything because the chain wear was much more than 1/8" in a foot.
    My Duraace has about 3,000 miles on it and it shifts great. I have
    cleaned the chain a few times and I have ridden in the rain more than
    a few times.

  13. I don't think shimano does much right but control pricing they have. MO
    prices for shimano and us are very close...now if we could do that with
    Campag and now Sram...already discounted, even when they don't have it
    yet...

    Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    Mike, you don't pay $175 for DA or $75 for ultegra or $20 for a
    chain...it's great that you quote retail prices but there HAS to be
    some reason to own a bike shop-

    Well... what about those times where my cost is more than I can buy it from
    a mail-order house? Sigh.

    --Mike Jacoubowsky
    Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReaction.com
    Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

    "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Mike, you don't pay $175 for DA or $75 for ultegra or $20 for a
    chain...it's great that you quote retail prices but there HAS to be
    some reason to own a bike shop-

    Mike Jacoubowsky said:

    >> From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-
    >>
    >> Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    >> actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.
    >> That means one $75 cassette and four $20 chains. $155 total.
    >>
    >> Replace chain and cassette every 6000 miles, $75 + $20 for $95 total.
    >
    > The OP has (10-speed?) Dura Ace, so won't a cassette cost quite a bit
    > more
    > than $75?

    Sorry, I was thinking Ultegra. Bike shop owners can't afford DuraAce. At
    least not when they have a daughter just starting college.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

    "Bill Sornson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    > Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
    >
    >> From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-
    >>
    >> Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    >> actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.
    >> That means one $75 cassette and four $20 chains. $155 total.
    >>
    >> Replace chain and cassette every 6000 miles, $75 + $20 for $95 total.
    >
    > The OP has (10-speed?) Dura Ace, so won't a cassette cost quite a bit
    > more
    > than $75?
    >
    > Otherwise, I agree with all you wrote -- and indeed, I just don't think
    > a
    > rear cassette should need replacing after 1500 miles (as you point out
    > below).
    >
    >
    >>
    >> So it's costing me an additional $60 to have a better-shifting
    >> drivetrain, per 6k miles. Negating a fair amount of that is that my
    >> chainrings will last much longer.
    >>
    >> Having said all that, I don't understand why a shop would suggest
    >> replacing a rear cassette without having even tried a new chain on it
    >> first. Especially with relatively-low mileage on it. I'm all for
    >> replacing chains early & often, but not cassettes.
    >>
    >> Hmm. I should also point out that shops often have no reliable means
    >> of testing a new chain under the same conditions as the rider
    >> (perhaps the skipping happens only on climbs and only with a very
    >> heavy rider, for example). So we get bikes that, on our test rides,
    >> work just fine, but the customer gets to his favorite rolling hill
    >> and his 230lb diesel body does things that cause the chain to skip,
    >> and he comes back mad at us because we didn't either find the problem
    >> or realize it would likely happen and replace the setup as a
    >> preventive measure.
    >> Hate that.
    >>
    >> --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    >> www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
    >>
    >>
    >> "Bill Sornson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    >> news:[email hidden]...
    >>> cyclingguy wrote:
    >>>> I just took my road bike in for a simple tune up and received a
    >>>> call a few hours later from the bike shop informing me that I
    >>>> needed a new chain. I agreed and so I told them to please replace
    >>>> the chain (had approx 1500 miles on it). A short time later I was
    >>>> told that because the chain was so worn out it had destroyed my
    >>>> rear cassette (dura ace). They suggested I replace it before I did
    >>>> futher damage to the drive train (front chain rings). They said
    >>>> that the teeth on the rear cassette have been worn to the point
    >>>> where a new chain simply wouldn't seat in the old cassette teeth
    >>>> and would be skipping all over the place.
    >>>>
    >>>> Is this true? I have never heard of such a thing. The bike (Fuji
    >>>> Professional, Dura Ace components) has about 1500 miles on it total.
    >>>>
    >>>> Any input or advice will be greatly appreciated.
    >>>
    >>> While it's often true that a worn chain has trashed the cassette (and
    >>> possibly a chain ring, esp. on a mtb), and that a new chain WILL
    >>> skip due to that, this should /not/ be the case in only 1500 road
    >>> miles. If I were you, I'd keep both and ride /many/ more miles on
    >>> that
    >>> drivetrain. (Don't tell me, let me guess: they're going to tell you
    >>> that they already tossed the old chain? If they do that, FIND A NEW
    >>> BIKE SHOP! And tell them why as you head out the door...)
    >>>
    >>> If by chance they haven't removed your chain yet, tell them you'll
    >>> think about it and go get the bike. You can measure the chain for
    >>> wear yourself -- s/b 12" rivet to rivet; anything over 1/16th inch
    >>> "stretch" and replace it. Again, this should not happen in so few
    >>> miles -- certainly not enough to ruin your cluster. (Assuming
    >>> decent conditions?) Was it working OK before you took it in? Any
    >>> skipping? Shifting OK?
    >>>
    >>> Don't quote me, but I think they're hosing you.
    >>>
    >>> BTW, it's good -- real good -- to learn how to replace a chain and
    >>> even a cassette yourself. Then you can shop around for a good deal
    >>> on the components -- especially high-end ones like DuraAce.
    >>>
    >>> Good luck.
    >>>
    >>> Bill S.
    >
    >


  14. well....of course!!

    RonSonic said:

    On 14 Sep 2006 05:45:25 -0700, "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:


    Mike, you don't pay $175 for DA or $75 for ultegra or $20 for a
    chain...it's great that you quote retail prices but there HAS to be
    some reason to own a bike shop-

    So that's the secret. Y'all are in it to support your own habit.

    Ron

    Quoted message said:


    Mike Jacoubowsky said:

    >> From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-
    >>
    >> Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    >> actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.
    >> That means one $75 cassette and four $20 chains. $155 total.
    >>
    >> Replace chain and cassette every 6000 miles, $75 + $20 for $95 total.
    >
    > The OP has (10-speed?) Dura Ace, so won't a cassette cost quite a bit more
    > than $75?

    Sorry, I was thinking Ultegra. Bike shop owners can't afford DuraAce. At
    least not when they have a daughter just starting college.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

    "Bill Sornson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    > Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
    >
    >> From an economic standpoint, looking at the 6000 mile outlook-
    >>
    >> Replace chain every 1500 miles, plus a cassette every five chains. So
    >> actually 7500 miles to the cassette, but for now we'll say just 6000.
    >> That means one $75 cassette and four $20 chains. $155 total.
    >>
    >> Replace chain and cassette every 6000 miles, $75 + $20 for $95 total.
    >
    > The OP has (10-speed?) Dura Ace, so won't a cassette cost quite a bit more
    > than $75?
    >
    > Otherwise, I agree with all you wrote -- and indeed, I just don't think a
    > rear cassette should need replacing after 1500 miles (as you point out
    > below).
    >
    >
    >>
    >> So it's costing me an additional $60 to have a better-shifting
    >> drivetrain, per 6k miles. Negating a fair amount of that is that my
    >> chainrings will last much longer.
    >>
    >> Having said all that, I don't understand why a shop would suggest
    >> replacing a rear cassette without having even tried a new chain on it
    >> first. Especially with relatively-low mileage on it. I'm all for
    >> replacing chains early & often, but not cassettes.
    >>
    >> Hmm. I should also point out that shops often have no reliable means
    >> of testing a new chain under the same conditions as the rider
    >> (perhaps the skipping happens only on climbs and only with a very
    >> heavy rider, for example). So we get bikes that, on our test rides,
    >> work just fine, but the customer gets to his favorite rolling hill
    >> and his 230lb diesel body does things that cause the chain to skip,
    >> and he comes back mad at us because we didn't either find the problem
    >> or realize it would likely happen and replace the setup as a
    >> preventive measure.
    >> Hate that.
    >>
    >> --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    >> www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
    >>
    >>
    >> "Bill Sornson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    >> news:[email hidden]...
    >>> cyclingguy wrote:
    >>>> I just took my road bike in for a simple tune up and received a
    >>>> call a few hours later from the bike shop informing me that I
    >>>> needed a new chain. I agreed and so I told them to please replace
    >>>> the chain (had approx 1500 miles on it). A short time later I was
    >>>> told that because the chain was so worn out it had destroyed my
    >>>> rear cassette (dura ace). They suggested I replace it before I did
    >>>> futher damage to the drive train (front chain rings). They said
    >>>> that the teeth on the rear cassette have been worn to the point
    >>>> where a new chain simply wouldn't seat in the old cassette teeth
    >>>> and would be skipping all over the place.
    >>>>
    >>>> Is this true? I have never heard of such a thing. The bike (Fuji
    >>>> Professional, Dura Ace components) has about 1500 miles on it total.
    >>>>
    >>>> Any input or advice will be greatly appreciated.
    >>>
    >>> While it's often true that a worn chain has trashed the cassette (and
    >>> possibly a chain ring, esp. on a mtb), and that a new chain WILL
    >>> skip due to that, this should /not/ be the case in only 1500 road
    >>> miles. If I were you, I'd keep both and ride /many/ more miles on that
    >>> drivetrain. (Don't tell me, let me guess: they're going to tell you
    >>> that they already tossed the old chain? If they do that, FIND A NEW
    >>> BIKE SHOP! And tell them why as you head out the door...)
    >>>
    >>> If by chance they haven't removed your chain yet, tell them you'll
    >>> think about it and go get the bike. You can measure the chain for
    >>> wear yourself -- s/b 12" rivet to rivet; anything over 1/16th inch
    >>> "stretch" and replace it. Again, this should not happen in so few
    >>> miles -- certainly not enough to ruin your cluster. (Assuming
    >>> decent conditions?) Was it working OK before you took it in? Any
    >>> skipping? Shifting OK?
    >>>
    >>> Don't quote me, but I think they're hosing you.
    >>>
    >>> BTW, it's good -- real good -- to learn how to replace a chain and
    >>> even a cassette yourself. Then you can shop around for a good deal
    >>> on the components -- especially high-end ones like DuraAce.
    >>>
    >>> Good luck.
    >>>
    >>> Bill S.
    >
    >

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