Advice for bicycle novices required

[Nowhere]

Hello everybody

My wife and I have decided we would like to start riding a pushbike. Not on
the road as yet, only on bike tracks. The problem is we know nothing about
bikes. The last push bike I had was a Malvern Star Dragster with a piece of
cardboard attached to the front with a peg to make the "spitfire" noise
which was about 38 years ago.

We would like some advice on type of bikes, including sizes, gears etc. My
wife is 5'6" and 60 kilos and I am 6'4" and 98 kilos and both in our late
forties. I have looked on ebay and in the trading post but the ads are so
confusing. We are looking to purchase the bikes second hand

Any advice would be appreciated
Thank you

 

[Donga]

Nowhere wrote:
> Hello everybody
>
> My wife and I have decided we would like to start riding a pushbike. Not on
> the road as yet, only on bike tracks. The problem is we know nothing about
> bikes. The last push bike I had was a Malvern Star Dragster with a piece of
> cardboard attached to the front with a peg to make the "spitfire" noise
> which was about 38 years ago.
>
> We would like some advice on type of bikes, including sizes, gears etc. My
> wife is 5'6" and 60 kilos and I am 6'4" and 98 kilos and both in our late
> forties. I have looked on ebay and in the trading post but the ads are so
> confusing. We are looking to purchase the bikes second hand
>
> Any advice would be appreciated
> Thank you

What is your budget? Bike tech and pricing has changed a lot in 38
years and you might find something new to suit your needs and budget.

Donga

 

[Nowhere]

Not sure what the prices should be. Advice required on this as well
Thank you
"Donga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Nowhere wrote:
>> Hello everybody
>>
>> My wife and I have decided we would like to start riding a pushbike. Not
>> on
>> the road as yet, only on bike tracks. The problem is we know nothing
>> about
>> bikes. The last push bike I had was a Malvern Star Dragster with a piece
>> of
>> cardboard attached to the front with a peg to make the "spitfire" noise
>> which was about 38 years ago.
>>
>> We would like some advice on type of bikes, including sizes, gears etc.
>> My
>> wife is 5'6" and 60 kilos and I am 6'4" and 98 kilos and both in our late
>> forties. I have looked on ebay and in the trading post but the ads are so
>> confusing. We are looking to purchase the bikes second hand
>>
>> Any advice would be appreciated
>> Thank you
>
> What is your budget? Bike tech and pricing has changed a lot in 38
> years and you might find something new to suit your needs and budget.
>
> Donga
>

 

[DaveB]

Nowhere wrote:
> Hello everybody
>
> My wife and I have decided we would like to start riding a pushbike. Not on
> the road as yet, only on bike tracks. The problem is we know nothing about
> bikes. The last push bike I had was a Malvern Star Dragster with a piece of
> cardboard attached to the front with a peg to make the "spitfire" noise
> which was about 38 years ago.
>
> We would like some advice on type of bikes, including sizes, gears etc. My
> wife is 5'6" and 60 kilos and I am 6'4" and 98 kilos and both in our late
> forties. I have looked on ebay and in the trading post but the ads are so
> confusing. We are looking to purchase the bikes second hand
>
> Any advice would be appreciated
> Thank you
>
>

It might be worth posting where you are and somebody may be able to
suggest a helpful bike shop in your area. Given where you are starting
from it would probably help to see the bike as someone goes through the
pros and cons.

DaveB

 

[cfsmtb]

It can be pretty daunting starting out, although that's plenty of suitable bicycle products etc on offer in the market, it can be confusing on *just* where to start. Have a gander at some of these links for a heads up:

Bikes for Women
http://www.cyclingpromotion.com.au/content/view/91/89/

Bikes for Men
http://www.cyclingpromotion.com.au/content/view/96/89/

Choosing bikes & accessories
http://www.bv.com.au/bikes-and-riding/

Bike for all (UK), especially the "Getting started" section:
http://www.bikeforall.net/

And for when you've acquired a bit more background on what you want, have a read of Sheldon Browns tips for beginner cyclists:
http://sheldonbrown.com/beginners/index.html

Also check in your area if there's a bicycle user group or club where you can meet local cyclists who can help you out cycling and general stuff. Cheers & hope this helps.

 

[Andrew Price]

Nowhere wrote -

> We would like some advice on type of bikes, including sizes, gears etc. >

Suggest -

1. try hiring before buying from a knowledgable local bike shop.

2. maybe start with hiring a mtb or comfortable cruiser to get the feel
back - try parks, cycle tracks and quiet before busy roads

3. ride more frequently and consistently, rather than trying major distances
or mass public rides until you get comforatable and used to it.

4. buy things slowly as you identify real (as opposed to perceived) need. If
you do start to get the bug, buy stuff in the order you will need it -
suggest knicks (shorts), spare tube and tyre levers, pump and the obligatory
helmet are all you need to start that you may not have already around the
house.

5. make sure you try road bikes as well as mountain bikes while you are
still in hire mode to try and get a fix on which you prefer and which is
easier for you to get to.

6. Learn really basic maintenance - fixing flats, adjusting brakes and
cleaning it.

7. when you get close to buying something, worry a lot about how well you
fit the bike and how reliable it will be - cheap will either end up being
expensive or not used. Don't get hung up on brands, frame matierials,
accessories or colour.

8. you will know if you love it soon enough - after that the addiction will
find its own level; oh, and remember, its meant to be fun ...

best, Andrew

 

[Plodder]

--
Frank
[email protected]
Drop DACKS to reply
"Nowhere" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello everybody
>
> My wife and I have decided we would like to start riding a pushbike. Not
on
> the road as yet, only on bike tracks. The problem is we know nothing about
> bikes. The last push bike I had was a Malvern Star Dragster with a piece
of
> cardboard attached to the front with a peg to make the "spitfire" noise
> which was about 38 years ago.
>
> We would like some advice on type of bikes, including sizes, gears etc. My
> wife is 5'6" and 60 kilos and I am 6'4" and 98 kilos and both in our late
> forties. I have looked on ebay and in the trading post but the ads are so
> confusing. We are looking to purchase the bikes second hand
>
> Any advice would be appreciated
> Thank you


As a bike shop owner I'd advise against buying a second hand bike. That's
not because I'd prefer to sell new bikes, it's because a second-hand bike
can cost you too much in repairs and servicing. Business-wise my margins are
better on fixing a bunky than on selling a new bike. Ethically, I'd rather
you bought something that's going to suit you at a fair price that's cheaper
in the long run. Unless you're quite adept at inspecting used bikes (I
suspect you're not), I'd advise going to your bike shop and looking there.

A few things to bear in mind:
First, beautiful people no loonger ride $200 pushbikes in the park - Yep,
I'm that old too Prices have risen considerably but value-for-money has
also improved. Look to spend around $500 each for a basic bike that's less
likely to let you down. The cheapies at around $150-$300 have compromises
which will cost you in maintenance.
Second, realistically assess how much use you're going to get out of your
bikes and buy accordingly. If you're never going off-road, look at somethign
like flat-bar road bikes or 'comfort' bikes. You don't need the extra weight
of mountain bikes. If you intend even occasional off-road riding, then look
at bikes intended for that, not just the ones that look the part. If you buy
on price rather than on purpose, you'll be disappointed.
Third, make sure you take your bikes back for their first service. It's
important to get stuff adjusted as it beds in. A decent bike shop will give
you your first service free (or your first year's services free, as we do).
Doing without the first bed-in tweaking can cause problems later.
Fourth (and most important!) DON'T buy department store or toy shop bikes.
They'll cost you lots to keep going. I love them because they bring repair
business to my shop! We've had a run on Huffy, Dunlop, etc. bikes since
Christmas with loose cranks (a couple already stripped!) bent wheels,
buggered brakes, useless shifters, and so-on. Many of those people will be
back at my shop within a few months to buy a better bike... saving money on
the initial purchase is a very false economy.

Cheers,

Frank

 

[Bleve]

Nowhere wrote:
> Not sure what the prices should be. Advice required on this as well
> Thank you

Frank's advice is very similar to mine, except that I think you can get
a very servicable bike for around $400, in particular there's some
entry level mountainbikes around $400 that are very good indeed. The
trick with second hand bikes is that unless you know what you're
looking for (and *you* don't, at this time) you might end up with a
bomb, and you'll get no service, setup and 'appropriate use' advice etc
that you'll get from a good LBS.

The most important things you'll get from an LBS is good advice on what
sort of bike suits your intended use, and getting a bike that fits you.

I work in an LBS part time, so that's my declaration of conflict of
interest We'd much rather see you on a bike that you'll ride lots
(because, amongst other things, we'll get your repair and maintenance
business if you ride lots!) than on something that's inappropriate and
uncomfortable - you won't ride the wrong bike, but if you have the
right one, you're more likely to ride it and have fun on it!

LBS - Local Bike Shop, just in case you weren't sure.

 

[Zebee Johnstone]

In aus.bicycle on 1 Jan 2007 16:42:01 -0800
Bleve <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> The most important things you'll get from an LBS is good advice on what
> sort of bike suits your intended use, and getting a bike that fits you.
>

Try a few shops and get a feel for who you seem to fit with best and
who seems most interested in you.

BR (Before Recumbent) I found rather a difference in how bike shop
people treated me. Some just wanted to shift what they could and
didn't give much of a damn, others really listened and gave me several
options and discussed them sensibly.

Size of shop or fanciness of display didn't seem to be a good
indicator either way.

Zebee
- who would say "go bent!" but realises the difficulties facing
novices trying to find a good bent and the cost, so won't. Except
once. Go bent!

 

[Bleve]

Zebee Johnstone wrote:
> In aus.bicycle on 1 Jan 2007 16:42:01 -0800
> Bleve <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >
> > The most important things you'll get from an LBS is good advice on what
> > sort of bike suits your intended use, and getting a bike that fits you.
> >
>
> Try a few shops and get a feel for who you seem to fit with best and
> who seems most interested in you.
>
> BR (Before Recumbent) I found rather a difference in how bike shop
> people treated me. Some just wanted to shift what they could and
> didn't give much of a damn, others really listened and gave me several
> options and discussed them sensibly.
>
> Size of shop or fanciness of display didn't seem to be a good
> indicator either way.
>
> Zebee
> - who would say "go bent!" but realises the difficulties facing
> novices trying to find a good bent and the cost, so won't. Except
> once. Go bent!

Perhaps 'try 'bent', rather than 'go 'bent'?

 

[Bugbear]

I've just been through a similar process to what you are about to go
through. After about a 12 year absence, I finally got the cash
together to get myself a commuter bike late last year.

I found it quite educational to go to my local newsagent and get a copy
of the Bicycling Australia Buyer's Guide (about $7.50). This gave me a
good feel for the types of bikes that are available, prices and what I
could expect to get for my money.

I wound up buying a flat bar road bike for about $600 (marked down from
$1100 - I got a bargain because the shop wanted to move last season's
stock out), but bear in mind that since then, I've spent an additional
$1000 on helmet, tools, clothing, repairs (got a punctured tyre),
lights, lock, bike rack for the car, cleats...(the list goes on

Make sure you budget for the accessories...

 

[Stuart Lamble]

On 2007-01-02, Bugbear <[email protected]> wrote:
> Make sure you budget for the accessories...

Oooooh yeah. The bike is just the beginning.

Clipless pedals are extremely useful (and definitely not cheap, although
$100 or so for the pedals, and $200 or so for the shoes, isn't
unreasonable.) Lights are a must (I went fancy: yay for dynamo hubs, a
steal at just $AU350 for the hub, wheel rebuild, and lights to suit) if
you're riding at night or even just around dusk. Pannier rack might be
of value. Speedo is nice to have. Cycling clothes make things much more
comfortable (gloves, if nothing else, are almost essentials.) Bidon
cages and bidons to suit. Lock. Pump. Puncture repair kit (and/or
bicycle assist or equivalent - RACV does this, for example.) Spare inner
tube.

Then there's tools and other such stuff for bike maintenance (or spend
the ~$50 for a bike shop to do it for you, if you want.)

--
My Usenet From: address now expires after two weeks. If you email me, and
the mail bounces, try changing the bit before the "@" to "usenet".

 

[Zebee Johnstone]

In aus.bicycle on 1 Jan 2007 17:00:02 -0800
Bleve <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Zebee Johnstone wrote:
>> - who would say "go bent!" but realises the difficulties facing
>> novices trying to find a good bent and the cost, so won't. Except
>> once. Go bent!
>
> Perhaps 'try 'bent', rather than 'go 'bent'?

I did think "get 'bent" would be even better

Zebee
- who has developed a habit of "I'm bored, I think I'll go for a
ride for an hour or two" which never happened on any other bicycle
since I was in primary school. So I'd damn glad I got bent.

 

[Zebee Johnstone]

In aus.bicycle on Tue, 02 Jan 2007 02:00:37 GMT
Stuart Lamble <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 2007-01-02, Bugbear <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Make sure you budget for the accessories...
>
> Oooooh yeah. The bike is just the beginning.
>
> Clipless pedals are extremely useful (and definitely not cheap, although
> $100 or so for the pedals, and $200 or so for the shoes, isn't
> unreasonable.) Lights are a must (I went fancy: yay for dynamo hubs, a
> steal at just $AU350 for the hub, wheel rebuild, and lights to suit) if
> you're riding at night or even just around dusk. Pannier rack might be

I second the dynamo. A good dynamo hib or bottle dynamo (they aren't
the dragging monsters you remember from childhood) and some lights
that stay lit when you are stopped are the way to go if you are likely
to be out near dark.

Especially if you aren't riding every day because you don't have to
think about batteries or do the "damn! I think the battery's flat,
let's get the spare, oh that was the spare" ritual

Probably a bit much when you are just dipping a toe in the water but
if you find you like the cycling thing then put it high on the list of
purchases.

St Kilda Cycles or www.greenspeed.com.au carry them.

Zebee

 

[Stuart Lamble]

On 2007-01-02, Zebee Johnstone <[email protected]> wrote:
> In aus.bicycle on Tue, 02 Jan 2007 02:00:37 GMT
> Stuart Lamble <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Lights are a must (I went fancy: yay for dynamo hubs, a
>> steal at just $AU350 for the hub, wheel rebuild, and lights to suit) if
>> you're riding at night or even just around dusk.
>
> I second the dynamo. A good dynamo hib or bottle dynamo (they aren't
> the dragging monsters you remember from childhood) and some lights
> that stay lit when you are stopped are the way to go if you are likely
> to be out near dark.

Good points - my lights will stay on after I've cycled a short distance
(only a couple of hundred metres) for a good period of time. They aren't
as bright when I've stopped, but they don't need to be, and they pick up
brightness very quickly when you resume cycling.

> Especially if you aren't riding every day because you don't have to
> think about batteries or do the "damn! I think the battery's flat,
> let's get the spare, oh that was the spare" ritual

Heh. In my case, it was the "five batteries, oh damn, the charger only
takes four" problem. Combine with the fact that in mid winter, I need
*two* sets of batteries (the lights last just long enough for me to ride
one way), and ... well ... (not to mention that they take pretty much
all day or night to recharge ...)

> St Kilda Cycles or www.greenspeed.com.au carry them.

And they'll do a wheel build around them, as well (in the case of dynamo
hubs); it's not particularly expensive, especially relative to the cost
of the hub. Drag is not a major issue; it's not noticeable with the
light turned off, and for a commuter, it's not significant with it
turned on. (Can't speak for modern day bottle dynamos, alas, but I'd
recommend a hub anyway - few frames nowadays are designed to take bottle
dynamos. You can get adaptors to work around this problem, but why
bother, when hub dynamos are a similar cost, and much less hassle?)

--
My Usenet From: address now expires after two weeks. If you email me, and
the mail bounces, try changing the bit before the "@" to "usenet".

 

[Stuart Lamble]

On 2007-01-02, Zebee Johnstone <[email protected]> wrote:
> I did think "get 'bent" would be even better

Trust me, those are words you do *not* want to say to a diver.

--
My Usenet From: address now expires after two weeks. If you email me, and
the mail bounces, try changing the bit before the "@" to "usenet".

 

[Bleve]

Stuart Lamble wrote:
> On 2007-01-02, Zebee Johnstone <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I did think "get 'bent" would be even better
>
> Trust me, those are words you do *not* want to say to a diver.

EAN50 is good

 

[Stuart Lamble]

On 2007-01-02, Bleve <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Stuart Lamble wrote:
>> On 2007-01-02, Zebee Johnstone <[email protected]> wrote:
>> > I did think "get 'bent" would be even better
>>
>> Trust me, those are words you do *not* want to say to a diver.
>
> EAN50 is good

I'm not at the stage of diving where I go deep enough for long enough to
warrant it. If I dive on EANx, it's usually EAN32.

--
My Usenet From: address now expires after two weeks. If you email me, and
the mail bounces, try changing the bit before the "@" to "usenet".

 

[Zebee Johnstone]

In aus.bicycle on Tue, 02 Jan 2007 02:26:57 GMT
Stuart Lamble <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> And they'll do a wheel build around them, as well (in the case of dynamo
> hubs); it's not particularly expensive, especially relative to the cost
> of the hub. Drag is not a major issue; it's not noticeable with the
> light turned off, and for a commuter, it's not significant with it
> turned on. (Can't speak for modern day bottle dynamos, alas, but I'd

I didn't notice the drag when I put the dynamo in, and don't notice it
on or off. Not that I would, given the amount of stuff I tote on the
bike!

I also like the auto sensor. I thought 'what a silly idea' but when
the light I ordered turned out to be an auto sensing one I decided to
leave it on auto. Now I can see it light up and know to turn the
flasher on It also lights up tunnels without me having to think
"getting a bit dark, better hit the switch"


> recommend a hub anyway - few frames nowadays are designed to take bottle
> dynamos. You can get adaptors to work around this problem, but why
> bother, when hub dynamos are a similar cost, and much less hassle?)

Most bottle dynamos have clamps designed for seat stays or similar. I
decided that it was just another hassle and hubs are so much easier to
live with. Plus they work in the wet, and for a commuter that's
important.

Zebee

 

[Dave Hughes]

On Tue, 02 Jan 2007 10:03:41 +1100, Andrew Price wrote:

> 1. try hiring before buying from a knowledgable local bike shop.

That's tricky, but good shops will at least let you ride around the block
on a bike to make sure it feels right, and can often arrange longer term
test rides (particularly with the higher end brands, eg Cannondale).

> 2. maybe start with hiring a mtb or comfortable cruiser to get the feel
> back - try parks, cycle tracks and quiet before busy roads

Remembering that "hire bike" is very similar to "hire car" - the cheapest
thing that can possibly do the job, and often abused. Admittedly that's
probably still going to be OK, but I have seen some dire hire bikes.

> 4. buy things slowly as you identify real (as opposed to perceived)
> need.

Yep, though I question if knicks are required for <10km beginning rides.
They'll probably be wanted before too long, but good ones are a fair wack
of cash. Also ensure that you've at least got a bottle and cage so you can
have a drink.


> 6. Learn really basic maintenance - fixing flats, adjusting brakes and
> cleaning it.

Again, your LBS should be able to help with this.

Disclaimer: I also work part time as an LBSG.

--
Dave Hughes | [email protected]
"We live in the interface between radioactive molten rock and hard
vacuum and we worry about safety." -- Chris Hunt