willocrew said:I'm wondering, if i am looking to get just 1 aeroynamic wheel, would it be better to get the front one first? I've heard that a front aero wheel paired with a rear ordinary wheel is quite effective...
Any suggestions?
dm69 said:A lot of TT riders I see were baggy clothes and standard helmets without shoe covers yet they have the million dollar aero bike.
thats interseting. I will have a look at that. I may need to save my moneysideshow_bob said:As you are quoting $AU I'm guessing you are in Oz. As far as I'm aware no aero helmets pass the required safety standards testing for Australia. Accordingly you can't wear them in any Cycling Australia event, which is basically everything, with the exception of UCI events as far as I'm aware. Of course I could be wrong.
--brett
I read that last night on one of the Sydney bike club sites and now I can't find the link. What it said was that you needed the Australian Standard sticker to be attached to the helmet and it also noted that there are no aerodynamic helmets that have been certified to the Australian Standard and therefor they are banned. So technically if you buy any helmet from mail order overseas from Australia then it does not qualify for racing as it doesn't have the aussie safety sticker.sideshow_bob said:As you are quoting $AU I'm guessing you are in Oz. As far as I'm aware no aero helmets pass the required safety standards testing for Australia. Accordingly you can't wear them in any Cycling Australia event, which is basically everything, with the exception of UCI events as far as I'm aware. Of course I could be wrong.
--brett
mikesbytes said:I read that last night on one of the Sydney bike club sites and now I can't find the link. What it said was that you needed the Australian Standard sticker to be attached to the helmet and it also noted that there are no aerodynamic helmets that have been certified to the Australian Standard and therefor they are banned. So technically if you buy any helmet from mail order overseas from Australia then it does not qualify for racing as it doesn't have the aussie safety sticker.
It said that the sticker had to be present, so if you removed it the helmet didn't comply. They didn't check this morning.sideshow_bob said:I had my helmet checked twice last year, as CA had issued a directive to clubs. This year, zero checks. I do know if you don't have the sticker, you don't get to race.
--brett
willocrew said:True about the body wind resistance, but i figured the aero position would cut down that figure by quite a bit.
Yea my bike would probably look unbalanced, but I don't think i'll be too bothered about it as long as there's some logic behind it.
As to how deep, I'm probably looking at 45mm carbon rims, but i can't say for sure as i'm not buying first hand.
But what i'm curious is, would there be any dangerous handling characteristics expecially when crosswinds suddenly come into play.
11ring said:For optimum aerodynamics you need a rim at least 50mm deep.
The 38mm varieties are not nearly as effective as the angle is too sharp to keep the airflow attached.
kleng said:+1 on the 50mm rims as a minimum for aero advantage, also I don't think your going to be able to ride a 50mm in all windy conditions. I tried this the other day with a loaner Hed Jet 50 and I felt exhausted just reacting to the wind gusts.
Recent issue of Bicycling magazine has an interview with the squad leader of the MIT cycling team. Not only do these kids have access to a wind tunnel, they've got the brains to analyze the data collected there.dm69 said:Also put the water bottle on the seatpost not the downtube. There is a thread somewhere around here on the results of the study.
rayhuang said:I assume then that the rim depth has more to do with aerodynamics efficiency of the wheels than the number or shape of the spokes or if its bladed CF spokes?
My TT front wheel in 1990 was an aero shaped aluminum 36 hole rim (Matrix??)with 18 (16g) spokes radially and a 18c conti tire. Boy talk about being nervous abut flats and wobbly in the turns!!
I too want to race a TT next year, but on a standard road bike. Need to try and get it reasonably aero, but not go crazy.
11ring said:The rim depth is very important to keep the air attached. Also it covers the spokes/reduces their length where they are spinning the fastest. A low profile rim with few spokes will not be very aero at all.
But generally the stiffer deeper rims let you use less spokes as well.
Interesatingly there does not seem to be much benefit from going below 20 spokes. And the ovals are maybey better than the blades. (but the blades are heavier and stifer, so you can use less)
Usually Discs are used on the indoor tracks, or zero wind days. People go for the trispoke carbon rearwheels in place of the discs in mildly windy days.rayhuang said:Thanks for the info. Would I be correct in assuming you can get away with a disc or deep dish rim in the rear in mild crosswinds (but enough crosswind to affect the front).
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