found this progranme very helpfull for understanding cadence

[tired legs]

hi all whilst browsing the net looking for some software etc to calculate / understand cadence a bit better , as my modest cycle computer only gives mph and distance found this programe by MACHINEHEAD SOFTWARE GEAR CALC PRO to be informative and is avaliable as a demo download.

my cycle weighs 30lbs trying the other day to roughly guess what my cadence acctually was by looking at watch/peddaling and counting approxamately rpm

speed was around 15-17mph nice flat surface cadence which i could only keep up for about 1 minute anyway was about 45 rpm.

so was a bit uncertain how it was possible to do say 30 mph

entering tire size/chainring sizes/sprocket sizes into above software it gave a reading of about 15-17 mph cadence 45-50 so my cycle computer is not at fault.


however by inputing a higher cadence say 100rpm the speed of cycle goes up quite a bit nearer 30 mph .

so i can now see how cadence relates to speed .

but to be honest at least for the time being if i will ever be able to get a lot higher than 45rmp and sustain for any length of time is another matter.

thought this programe might be usefull for other novices like myself.

thanks all

 

[gclark8]

OK, for now try a gear or two lower and up the cadence to 85-90 for a spell, drop the load on the legs.. you won't get so tired.

 

[tired legs]

thanks george will give that a try , most of the other cycles i had considered befor purchase of diamondback seem to weigh approx 26-27lbs most but not all had rear seat post suspension some with front.


i cannot seem to get the exact weight from diamondback /raliegh / website or contact by phone of my cycle, trying to weigh it using a set of balance scales its about 30-32 lbs possible more.

regardless of gearing /cadence etc i find it like dragging a sack of coals around,

did swop tyres for 700cX28c at 90 psi , only real differance at the moment i do not get the (road noise) i used to get with originall tyres.

phoned a local dealer who gave me a contact number of someone who sells second hand cycles, mainly road /race at modest costs, might have a look and see if i can find something a lot lighter , for a start ,no front suspention, or at least try one ,

any advice re second hand what to look for most welcome

thank you

 

[gclark8]

The way the Diamond Back is specked and built, don't over capitalise from this point further on. You may have reached the critial pont, weight vs speed vs cost. A Giant FCR with 23mm Conti Ultra Gator Skins would have been the optimum bike for your application.

A good fitness/aerobic riding style can be achieved with any weight bike, it will take practice, and a heavy bike will certainly build fittness. Do you have a computer with cadence? I am not doing much on the road at present, however do 2x20min sessions at 75% max heart rate 6 days a week in the gym to get some weight off again. My cadence is 90-100. I also do walking and circuit weights, a total of 3 hours a day.

Also look on the tyre sidewall, what is the max inflation pressure? Weighing a bike, same as a cat, stand on the bathroom sales with the bike on your shoulder, note weight. Stand on the scales without bike, note weight. Subtact 2 from 1 = bike weight.

 

[tired legs]

thanks george cycle computer does not have cadence funtion, my gear ratios are as follows

smallest cog 1 = 11t 2 nd =13t 3=15t 4 =17t 5=20t 6=23t 7 =26t 8=30t

i have been cycling approxamately 3 weeks round trip 12 miles every day , i do however find that i can go just a nats bit further every day then when i first started,
yesterday using chainring 36t and rear cog 4 17t could poodle along at about 11-12mph quite comftably but cadence is low , using the 48t chainring and cog 1 11t even downhill its hard to push.

tyres pressures on specialised nimbus tyres rate from 75 psi to 100 psi i have them at 90 psi.

i will however just stick with it and see how things go .

thank you

 

[gclark8]

OK, ride on the flat roads in the middle ring (38) just use the 48 tooth for the easy down hill bits.

You have to get used to pedaling faster, change down a gear, count the left leg only, use a watch with a sweep second hand, tape it on the bars for now. Count for 30 seconds and multiply by two to establish a base, then count for 10 seconds and multiply by 6 to acertain change of cadence. Practice on a gym bike if you can. You will soon know what the approximate cadence is with experience. Later, with practice, 6 seconds times 10 will be enough. I do this daily with ladies in the gym, cadence and heart rate (that's next).

Tyre pressures, try 90 front and 100 rear.

 

[Eastway82]

snip

so i can now see how cadence relates to speed .

As you've found, it's like your car - more revs = more speed in a given gear. But at 45rpm that's like pulling away from the lights in top gear - bad for the engine!
As others have pointed out, you ought to be looking at a cadence of about 80-90, spinning not pushing, using your gears to keep yourself spinning away comfortably at that rate. If you've got access to a gym, a few sessions on a static bike with a cadence meter will give you a feel for what that cadence feels like, and you'll be able to replicate it on the road without a meter.
Your bike's heavy, but again, as others have pointed out, that's great for getting fit! I've got an old Giant mountain bike set up with road tyres and panniers as a touring bike, and I'm sure the tubed muct be filled with lead because I can hardly lift the damn thing! But once it's rolling, no problems at all.