How do I install a chain on my road bike with a Campagnolo Super Record groupset?

[VelocityVincePro]

Ive always been under the impression that installing a chain on a road bike with a Campagnolo Super Record groupset is a relatively straightforward process, but after recently struggling to get my new chain to shift smoothly, Im starting to question my assumptions. The Campagnolo manual recommends using their proprietary chain tool to ensure precise installation, but Ive heard some mechanics swear by using a third-party tool to get the job done.

Has anyone else out there had experience with both methods? Are there any specific tips or tricks for getting the chain to seat properly on the chainrings, particularly when using the Campagnolo Ultra-Shift chainrings? Ive noticed that even slight misalignment can cause the chain to skip gears or rub against the frame, which is obviously less than ideal.

One thing thats been bugging me is the optimal amount of tension to apply to the chain. Too little and its prone to skipping, but too much and it can cause premature wear on the components. Is there a general rule of thumb for determining the correct tension, or is it more of a feel-based process?

Finally, are there any common mistakes or pitfalls that I should be aware of when installing a new chain on my Super Record groupset? Ive heard rumors of people damaging their components or stripping the threads on the chainring bolts, but Im not sure how much truth there is to these claims. Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[gfkvelo]

Several things here:

1. Check the Campagnolo technical manuals and video tutorials online at www.campagnolo.com (go to https://www.campagnolo.com/gb-en/support/support/support.html#documentation) for optimal chain length and "H"-screw setting.
Those are the correct ways to set chain tension for Campagnolo and they differ from both Shimano and SRAM. The system is different for 11s than for 12s mechanical, although 12s EPS is the same as 11s - that's a reflection of a slight difference in the way that the 12s mechanical derailleur sets the chain tension.

2. The chain tool - again, see the video online - any third party tool needs to have apeening guard, because the end of the rivet that is used to joing the chain needs to be peened. The peened end should be on the "outside" of the chain - i.e. the river needs to be fed through from the "reverse side" of the chain, as you see it from the gearside.

3. The Campagnolo chain tool is best for several reasons -
First, the distance from the "saddle" that the chain fits over, to the blocking plate, which stops it bending away from the pin as it is driven through, is important - too wide and the outer link plate will flex and the river will no longer pass through accurately square, which can widen the hole, decreasing the amount of foce needed to release the pin again ... not desirable, can lead to chain failure. Second, the lopped pin that is used to hold the chain down in both the shortening and re-joining, then finally, the peening process, absolutely prevents the chain from "riding up" as the rivet is removed / refitted / peened, so again, the river goes through square to the chain - this also drastically reduces the chances of breaking the pin on the tool. Third, the Campagnolo peening guard is in the correct place to ensure that the rivet is the correct distance "through" the chain. That is, in fact, part of the reason for having the peening guard at all. On 11s there should be 0.2mm of the rivet protruding each side of the link plates, on 12s it's more like 0.05mm (you can "just" feel it with your thumbnail.

4. Which Campagnolo chain tool to use:
You don't specify whether you are working on SR 11 or 12s but you can use the UT-CN300 tool for either 11 or 12s (but not 13). You'll see the tool is labelled "for 11s only" but that is a hangover from when they were first produced - because they can't be used with 10s.
UT-CN300 was the original factory-designated tool for 12s ... It's easy to get confused though, because there is now UT-CN400 as well, which can be used for both 12s and 13s, but not 11s ...

11s chainrings are XPSS type, 12s chainrings are marked "12s" specifically. When you say UltraShift chainrings, do you mean Ultra Drive (UD)? Because UD chainrings aren't 11 or 12s compatible and you may well run into problems trying to run an 11s chain on 10s rings - it will mesh and it can be done - but it's far from an optimal combination.

I would strongly suggest that if you are not 100% sure of any of the assembly processes - especially the chain , you visit a Campagnolo ProShop and at the least, get them to check your installation. SR kit is not cheap and if you make a mistake and damage something, or worse, make a mistake and are injured as a result, you are not going to be a happy camper!