Latest Homemade Light



"Marty Wallace" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> It sounds like I have the same setup as you.
> I have 10 4.5Ah, 4/3A batteries to give 12 volts. (NiMh)
> Connections are done with a polarised plug the same as used on RC electric
> cars to prevent "accidents".
> My charger is a MW7168.
> http://www.master-instruments.com.au/browse/Model/MW7168.html
>
>
> Ride on!
>
> Marty (VK6ABC)
>


That is the exact same charger as I have......freaky.

Ride On,

Gags
 
"suzyj" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Gags wrote:
>
> > I have also just finished an LED version that has 19 x 10,000 mcd

> LEDs, a
> > simple constant current circuit, and uses the same conduit fitting as

> the
> > Version 8 one, but I have attached it to a Vistalight mount.

> Hopefully I
> > will get a photo of it sometime soon.

>
> Sounds very cool. I'm currently working on my own LED headlight, after
> being muchly impressed by Poiter's one at the GSR last year.
>
> Basically it's an aluminium rod 80mm long and 38mm dia, with the inside
> bored out to 32mm, except for a lip at the end. Into the tube is
> stuffed an o-ring, a 32mm dia piece of polycarbonate sheet (cut from a
> CD case), a Fraen spot-collimator, a luxeon-III bolted to a 16mm long,
> 32mm dia aluminium disc (transfers heat to the case), then a luxdrive
> led driver block. The end is capped off with a piece of aluminium
> sheet, in which is mounted a simple toggle switch and the socket nicked
> from my vistalite light. I'll steal the vistalite mount, as it's really
> neat, and drill through the case into the aluminium disc (tapped M5) to
> hold the disc firmly against the case, for good heat transfer.
>
> I've got a three-position switch (on-off-on), and it's easy to wire it
> up to the luxdrive with a resistor to give off-high(700mA)-low(250mA).
> That's the main benefit for me of the Luxeon. They're a little more
> efficient than a comparable halogen at three watts, but underdrive them
> to (say) 1W and they're _much_ more efficient than a 1W halogen.
>
> The battery can be either my nightstick battery (3Ah 6V NiMH) or else
> an 8.4V 8.9Ah pack I made with eight 18650 Li+ cells. The luxdrive
> thingy is very cool, and takes anything from 5V up to lots (I've tested
> it to 12V, and it works fine) to power the LED.
>
> Anyway, I reckon I'll get about 5-6 hours (high beam) out of my
> nightstick, and better than a whole night high beam from the Li+ pack.
>
> Thus far I've made the tube and bought all the electronics and optics.
> I just have to make the heat-transfer disc and plug for the open end of
> the tube, then put it all together.
>
> > Can anyone tell me whether the connector for the Vistalight

> nightsticks has
> > a 2.1mm or 2.5mm centre post??? The LED light that I have made runs

>
> > from 6V and so I am looking at making it "nightstick compatible"

>
> It's 2.5mm, but be aware that the positive bit of the vistalite sockets
> are just a turned pin, with no spring. The vistalite plug has a formed
> contact in it to make contact to this.
>
> What this meant for me was that a cord that I made up with a different
> 2.5mm dia plug (actually scavenged off an old nightsun light) was
> annoyingly intermittent with the vistalite light-head. The opposite
> (vistalite cord with Jaycar socket) works fine.
>
> Regards,
>
> Suzy
> --
> suzyj


Suzy,

what do you use to charge the Li+ batteries?? I must say that i have never
looked at using or charging them although I do have an old battery pack from
my Laptop (I think it was Li-Ion....is that the same??) that wouldn't charge
anymore. I don't know if you can recondition Li-Ion batteries or
not.....might have to actually do a bit of a read-up on latest technologies.

BTW.....how expensive are the cells to buy and where can you get them??

From looking at your previous projects, I have no doubt that the finished
product will be a thing of beauty.....have you considered trying your hand
at annodising the finished item. I have seen a couple of websites that
reckon you can do it with battery acid, distilled water, food colouring or
dye, and a decent power supply. I am hoping to have a crack at it one day.

Ride On,

Gags
 
suzyj said:
Gags wrote:
Sounds very cool. I'm currently working on my own LED headlight, after being muchly impressed by Poiter's one at the GSR last year.
Suzy

Didn't see anything about brazing or from scratch construction, maybe a stem with a light mount brazed on the top?

On these discussions, anyone put the battery pack in the handlebar tubes?
 
On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 at 07:23 GMT, Gags (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
> "suzyj" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> The battery can be either my nightstick battery (3Ah 6V NiMH) or else
>> an 8.4V 8.9Ah pack I made with eight 18650 Li+ cells. The luxdrive
>> thingy is very cool, and takes anything from 5V up to lots (I've tested
>> it to 12V, and it works fine) to power the LED.

> what do you use to charge the Li+ batteries?? I must say that i have never
> looked at using or charging them although I do have an old battery pack from
> my Laptop (I think it was Li-Ion....is that the same??) that wouldn't charge
> anymore. I don't know if you can recondition Li-Ion batteries or
> not.....might have to actually do a bit of a read-up on latest technologies.


They're tricksy. On the cheap, you might be able to get away with a
constant current followed by constant voltage (much like in the lead
acid case), but only if you are accurate to better than 1%, and don't
trickle charge them. And don't expect it not to blow up.


I did the obvious google search (something like "charging li-ion
circuit") a few weeks back, because I have a 2 year old dell laptop
battery that has plenty of charge in the cells (enough to light a
spare 12V halogen, if I use 3 of the cells instead of the 4), and it
registers as almost full, but the circuit refuses to charge or
discharge.

> BTW.....how expensive are the cells to buy and where can you get them??


You can't buy then separately, because they are so damn dangerous to
charge. They only ever come in manufactured packs with the charging
circuits built in.

The cells in mine are made by Panasonic though, if you really know
what you are doing.

Somewhere (I seem not have bookmarked it???) I had a datasheet for a
charging chip. Not sold by Jaycar - perhaps rs-components could do it?
Does things like senses temperature (sudden temp rise means that it is
fully charged in both NiMH and Li-ion cases), under/over voltage,
current, time and a bunch of other things which I have forgotten.

Maybe the LM3647?

Sorry for being so vague. It's been months since I sorted out my
bookmarks, and hence I can't find anything I have added in the last
few months.



From Jaycar, I recently bought their 19 LED red rear stop light
replacement, with the intention of building a PWM dimmer and flashing
circuit, and hooking it all up in a secure housing. From there, I
could use either the 14.8 volt Li-ion battery, or a 12V SLA and
connect up both it and a front halogen bulb. But unfortunately, I
still have rather too much real work to do.

--
TimC -- http://astronomy.swin.edu.au/staff/tconnors/
As a computer, I find your faith in technology amusing.
 
On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 at 09:21 GMT, TimC (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
> Somewhere (I seem not have bookmarked it???) I had a datasheet for a
> charging chip. Not sold by Jaycar - perhaps rs-components could do it?
> Does things like senses temperature (sudden temp rise means that it is
> fully charged in both NiMH and Li-ion cases), under/over voltage,
> current, time and a bunch of other things which I have forgotten.
>
> Maybe the LM3647?


Why do I always send before finishing my research?

rs-components (http://www.rsaustralia.com) of course being that site
which I have ordered many obscure ICs from before, yep - they have the
LM3647 for $10.50.

IIRC, their postage is rather pricey, and I won't be getting one of
these guys in the near future, but if anyone else in Melbourne is
going to get some, I'll be willing to grab one at the same time, so we
can at least save on postage.

--
TimC -- http://astronomy.swin.edu.au/staff/tconnors/
>Cats are intended to teach us that not everything in nature has a function.

You're saying cats are the opposite of bijectiveness? -- ST in RHOD
 
On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 at 09:21 GMT, TimC (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
> Somewhere (I seem not have bookmarked it???) I had a datasheet for a
> charging chip. Not sold by Jaycar - perhaps rs-components could do it?
> Does things like senses temperature (sudden temp rise means that it is
> fully charged in both NiMH and Li-ion cases), under/over voltage,
> current, time and a bunch of other things which I have forgotten.
>
> Maybe the LM3647?


Why do I always send before finishing my research?

rs-components (http://www.rsaustralia.com) of course being that site
which I have ordered many obscure ICs from before, yep - they have the
LM3647 for $10.50.

IIRC, their postage is rather pricey, and I won't be getting one of
these guys in the near future, but if anyone else in Melbourne is
going to get some, I'll be willing to grab one at the same time, so we
can at least save on postage.

--
TimC -- http://astronomy.swin.edu.au/staff/tconnors/
>Cats are intended to teach us that not everything in nature has a function.

You're saying cats are the opposite of bijectiveness? -- ST in RHOD
 
"TimC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 at 09:21 GMT, TimC (aka Bruce)
> was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
> > Somewhere (I seem not have bookmarked it???) I had a datasheet for a
> > charging chip. Not sold by Jaycar - perhaps rs-components could do it?
> > Does things like senses temperature (sudden temp rise means that it is
> > fully charged in both NiMH and Li-ion cases), under/over voltage,
> > current, time and a bunch of other things which I have forgotten.
> >
> > Maybe the LM3647?

>
> Why do I always send before finishing my research?
>
> rs-components (http://www.rsaustralia.com) of course being that site
> which I have ordered many obscure ICs from before, yep - they have the
> LM3647 for $10.50.
>
> IIRC, their postage is rather pricey, and I won't be getting one of
> these guys in the near future, but if anyone else in Melbourne is
> going to get some, I'll be willing to grab one at the same time, so we
> can at least save on postage.
>

I might have to have a look at the Dallas Semiconductors website....they do
Maxim chips and I know that you can get a couple sent for free as
"engineering samples" as I have a few of these laying around for NiMh and
NiCd battery chargers that I never got around to building up and now don't
need to given that I have an off the shelf charger. I will let you know
what I turn up.

Gags
 
"TimC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 at 09:21 GMT, TimC (aka Bruce)
> was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
> > Somewhere (I seem not have bookmarked it???) I had a datasheet for a
> > charging chip. Not sold by Jaycar - perhaps rs-components could do it?
> > Does things like senses temperature (sudden temp rise means that it is
> > fully charged in both NiMH and Li-ion cases), under/over voltage,
> > current, time and a bunch of other things which I have forgotten.
> >
> > Maybe the LM3647?

>
> Why do I always send before finishing my research?
>
> rs-components (http://www.rsaustralia.com) of course being that site
> which I have ordered many obscure ICs from before, yep - they have the
> LM3647 for $10.50.
>
> IIRC, their postage is rather pricey, and I won't be getting one of
> these guys in the near future, but if anyone else in Melbourne is
> going to get some, I'll be willing to grab one at the same time, so we
> can at least save on postage.
>

I might have to have a look at the Dallas Semiconductors website....they do
Maxim chips and I know that you can get a couple sent for free as
"engineering samples" as I have a few of these laying around for NiMh and
NiCd battery chargers that I never got around to building up and now don't
need to given that I have an off the shelf charger. I will let you know
what I turn up.

Gags
 
"Gags" <gags_44nospamatnospamtpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "suzyj" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Gags wrote:
> >

>
> what do you use to charge the Li+ batteries?? I must say that i have

never
> looked at using or charging them although I do have an old battery pack

from
> my Laptop (I think it was Li-Ion....is that the same??) that wouldn't

charge
> anymore. I don't know if you can recondition Li-Ion batteries or
> not.....might have to actually do a bit of a read-up on latest

technologies.
>
> BTW.....how expensive are the cells to buy and where can you get them??
>
> From looking at your previous projects, I have no doubt that the finished
> product will be a thing of beauty.....have you considered trying your hand
> at annodising the finished item. I have seen a couple of websites that
> reckon you can do it with battery acid, distilled water, food colouring or
> dye, and a decent power supply. I am hoping to have a crack at it one

day.
>
> Ride On,
>
> Gags
>
>


This site looks promising.
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1230
They have some really nice stuff and it's cheap too.

Marty
 
"Marty Wallace" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Gags" <gags_44nospamatnospamtpg.com.au> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "suzyj" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > Gags wrote:
> > >

> >
> > what do you use to charge the Li+ batteries?? I must say that i have

> never
> > looked at using or charging them although I do have an old battery pack

> from
> > my Laptop (I think it was Li-Ion....is that the same??) that wouldn't

> charge
> > anymore. I don't know if you can recondition Li-Ion batteries or
> > not.....might have to actually do a bit of a read-up on latest

> technologies.
> >
> > BTW.....how expensive are the cells to buy and where can you get them??
> >
> > From looking at your previous projects, I have no doubt that the

finished
> > product will be a thing of beauty.....have you considered trying your

hand
> > at annodising the finished item. I have seen a couple of websites that
> > reckon you can do it with battery acid, distilled water, food colouring

or
> > dye, and a decent power supply. I am hoping to have a crack at it one

> day.
> >
> > Ride On,
> >
> > Gags
> >
> >

>
> This site looks promising.
> http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1230
> They have some really nice stuff and it's cheap too.
>
> Marty
>
>
>


Here's the ones I was really looking for.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=737

Marty
 
Gags wrote:

> what do you use to charge the Li+ batteries?? I must say
> that i have never looked at using or charging them although
> I do have an old battery pack from my Laptop (I think it was
> Li-Ion....is that the same??) that wouldn't charge anymore. I
> don't know if you can recondition Li-Ion batteries or not.....
> might have to actually do a bit of a read-up on latest
> technologies.

Li+ means Lithium Ion. They're actually easier to charge than NiCd or NiMH batteries, as the end of charge detection is dead easy.

You can buy specialised charge control chips, from the likes of linear-tech, maxim, nat semi etc. Most of these companies will sell "samples" for practically nothing directly from their websites, so it's easy to get the parts, but bear in mind that often these sort of things are only available in surface mount packages, so they're fiddly to use.

I'm inherently lazy, being an electronics engineer by trade, so haven't built a charger. Instead, on the occasions that I've used the pack (it's reserved for all-night rides) I charge it using a lab power supply. All I do is set the voltage to 8.4V, the current to 3A, then connect the pack and wander off. At first, the pack will draw the full 3A, but after a couple of hours the voltage rises to 8.4V and the current starts to drop. Conventional wisdom is that the pack is charged when the current drops to 10% of its initial value, so I disconnect it when the current falls to 300mA.

I've seen circuits around that use a pair of simple LM317 regulators to charge Li+ batteries. One is connected as a constant current source, which feeds a second regulator that sets the voltage to 8.4V. The only thing you have to be careful with is that the voltage is accurate. +/- 1% or so is necessary, so a trimmer on the voltage feedback for the second regulator is a good idea.

The other potential gotcha with Li+ cells is not to over-discharge them, as you'll stuff them. Maxim make a simple little "cell protection chip" which you can hide in the pack along with a FET, which simply disconnects the pack if the battery voltage goes out of tolerance. One could also knock something up with an opamp, a few resistors (big ones so the quiescent current is low) a voltage reference, and a power FET. Thus far I haven't got anything like that on my pack, and am paranoid about running it too long.

> BTW.....how expensive are the cells to buy and where can you get them??

I haven't found anyone selling individual cells, like with NiMH/NiCd. My pack started life as a notebook battery, which I bought as a spare for my old notebook and never used. I pulled it apart, threw away the circuitry, and rewired the pack so that it gave me 7.4V rather than 14.8.

> From looking at your previous projects, I have no doubt
> that the finished product will be a thing of beauty.....have
> you considered trying your hand at annodising the finished
> item. I have seen a couple of websites that reckon you can
> do it with battery acid, distilled water, food colouring or dye,
> and a decent power supply. I am hoping to have a crack at
> it one day.

Thus far the housing is simply polished aluminium, but I'm toying with anodising it. I don't have much experience with finishing aluminium, mainly working in steel to date, but steel wasn't really appropriate for a Luxeon light housing, as it's not a particularly good thermal conductor.

Regards,

Suzy
 
On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 at 16:10 GMT, Marty Wallace (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
> Here's the ones I was really looking for.
>
> http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=737


Yummy.

A$90 for 14.8V, 4000mAh bidon or flat-pack.

I hate how websites don't readily display how much you can expect for
shipping.

--
TimC -- http://astronomy.swin.edu.au/staff/tconnors/
According to the latest official figures, 43% of all statistics
are totally worthless.
 
TimC wrote:

> I hate how websites don't readily display how much you can
> expect for shipping.


http://www.usps.com . They say they'll ship via post, and to just use
the weight calculator at your desired shipping method's site.

And quit reminding me, I'm trying to not buy a battery before the light
it's for arrives.

Dave - who has a few NiMH batteries already.