Originally posted by William H. O'Ha
Chris Dorn <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> The time you waste going back and forth to your local
> shop, who obviously doesn't know how to properly stress
> relieve and tension a wheel, will more than make up for
> one trip to the reputable bike shop who can probably fix
> the problem permanently. Like everyone else has already
> said good rim, bad build. chris
Just to clarify a question of mine.
How out of true would the MAVIC get during normal riding?
The people that mention that they do not true their wheels,
surely do not have perfectly straight wheels?
--
William H. O'Hara KB1LEH
Most quality brakes are adjusted ~1 mm from the braking surface of the rim. Rims can easily be true to within less than .3 mm with even spoke tension. There will be some irregularities and settling even with a very good build.
However, wheels can be built to stay true to within .5 mm taking into account some rim irregularities and settling.
You should be able to put a .5 mm feeler gauge between the rim and a brake shoe that is set at 1 mm and make a complete revolution with just a minimal or no touch.
As long as the rim isn't damaged or a spoke broken the wheels I build stay within .5 mm of true.
If the spokes have proper and even tension and there is error of less than .5 mm some wheel builders won't make any adjustments.
Further reading suggestions:
"the Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt
Chapter 17 of Barnetts Bicycle repair manual.