Advice sought re buying a new bike. (incl which brands have what reputations)

Quoted message said:

1. Budget: as much as it takes. GBP250 - GBP600?

Mwa-ha-ha, we can spend that for you...

Quoted message said:

3. Speed: Fairly FAST please
I am sick of being over-taken by fat women!

Stronger legs'll come but while you're waiting:
-Thinner, higher pressure tyres make a big difference
-A lighter bike will be faster away from the lights and up hills
-Clipless pedals are excellent - _much_ faster acceleration and make
pedaling more efficient i.e. you can go faster for the same amount of
effort
-Drop bars cut down on air resistance, but might not mix with your back.

Quoted message said:

4. Nickability: MUST BE LOW

Two locks needed, as both wheels need locking to something.
Apart from that it's amazing how a rack and mudguards put scallies off.

Quoted message said:

5. Seating position: As upright as possible!
I have a long history of having a bad back and leaning
forwards & down irritates it.

This rules out anything with drop bars. Flat barred road (i.e. racing)
bikes are ruled out 'cos of their wheels.

Consider something with an adjustable stem type thingummy, and having a
long test ride.

Quoted message said:

7. Brakes: pretty sharp.
This could save my life. So the need to be sharp even
in the wet etc. But ideally I dont like having them "grab"
from nearly full on, to full on (etc)

V brakes are good. For more money hydraulic rim brakes or disc brakes
(but the latter fail the nickability test) will be more powerful.
Alternatively drum brakes work just as well in the wet as in the dry.

Quoted message said:

8. Gear ratio change: Rapid if possible
I will be spending a lot of time stopping at lights (ahem)
and due to traffic etc. So it would be nice not to have
to spend one's entire life changing between ennumerable
gears!

Most (all?) bikes in your price range will have one-click-one-gear type
shifters. Alternatively hub gears can normally be changed even when
stationary and will be more reliable.

Quoted message said:

9. Robustness: Fairly strong needed.
London is reasonably flat but has many pot-holes!
Also I want something that can cope with going off
at least small curbs - ie I dont want anything too
stupidly "precious"!

This, and the bad back, rules out flat barred road bikes. Everything
else you look at will have fairly strong 26" wheels and be eaily up for
hopping off kerbs (not that you'd be naughty enough to ride on the
pavement of course :-)

Quoted message said:

Progress thus far:
I think a mountain bike would be too slow.
And too "nickable"!

Aye. You'll be wanting a hybrid type thingy I expect.

Quoted message said:

The man in the shop was trying to sell me
A) a "Crossroad Sport" from manufacturers "Specialised" for c. GBP300

Looks like it has swept handlebars so should be easier on your back. The
suspension seatpost'll take the edge off some of the bumps too.

Quoted message said:

B) A "Sirrus" also from "Specialised" for c. GBP400

The riding position doesn't look nearly as upright on this one. I guess
this is the all-important thing for you.

Quoted message said:

The main problem with the Sirrus is that although
it seems quite fast, apparently I cant put swept-back handle bar on it.
(Better for my spine, I reckon)

Hey, you've saved yourself £100. Don't forget to budget for mudguards,
lights, panniers + rack, locks etc. I really recommend panniers over a
rucksack - much, much more comfy.

ship said:

Hi

Can anyone recommend a new bike for me?
- What are the best brands?
- Any specific models?

1. Budget: as much as it takes. GBP250 - GBP600?

2. Use: Commuting 20-25mins each way/going out around London.

3. Speed: Fairly FAST please
I am sick of being over-taken by fat women!

4. Nickability: MUST BE LOW
I will have to leave the bike in the street during the day.
I have a heavy motorbike duty D-lock which has stopped
my old bike (with old heavy 7spd sturmey-archer gearbox)
from being stolen. I have left it outside railway stations
over night/over weekends etc not problem.

In short it needs to be go like the wind but look like hell....

This bike meets the requirements stated above:
<http://www.outsideconnection.com/gallant/hpv/joe/MVC-007S.JPG>.

--
Tom Sherman - Earth

Tom Sherman said:

ship said:

Hi

Can anyone recommend a new bike for me?
- What are the best brands?
- Any specific models?

1. Budget: as much as it takes. GBP250 - GBP600?

2. Use: Commuting 20-25mins each way/going out around London.

3. Speed: Fairly FAST please
I am sick of being over-taken by fat women!

4. Nickability: MUST BE LOW
I will have to leave the bike in the street during the day.
I have a heavy motorbike duty D-lock which has stopped
my old bike (with old heavy 7spd sturmey-archer gearbox)
from being stolen. I have left it outside railway stations
over night/over weekends etc not problem.

In short it needs to be go like the wind but look like hell....

This bike meets the requirements stated above:
<http://www.outsideconnection.com/gallant/hpv/joe/MVC-007S.JPG>.

You cannot tempt him to the Dark Side yet. Just needs a couple of
sidewinders and an ideal commuter I'd say.

Quoted message said:

This bike meets the requirements stated above:
<http://www.outsideconnection.com/gallant/hpv/joe/MVC-007S.JPG>.

LOL!

Even if you wanted to nick that it probably wouldn't fit into a lorry
intact :-)

Tom Sherman said:

ship said:

Hi

Can anyone recommend a new bike for me?
- What are the best brands?
- Any specific models?

1. Budget: as much as it takes. GBP250 - GBP600?

2. Use: Commuting 20-25mins each way/going out around London.

3. Speed: Fairly FAST please
I am sick of being over-taken by fat women!

4. Nickability: MUST BE LOW
I will have to leave the bike in the street during the day.
I have a heavy motorbike duty D-lock which has stopped
my old bike (with old heavy 7spd sturmey-archer gearbox)
from being stolen. I have left it outside railway stations
over night/over weekends etc not problem.

In short it needs to be go like the wind but look like hell....

This bike meets the requirements stated above:
<http://www.outsideconnection.com/gallant/hpv/joe/MVC-007S.JPG>.

I'd prefer
<http://www.cyclingnews.com/news.php?id=photos/2005/news/feb05/germany-cycling-tandem-61>
myself, but I have a companion for my commute.

--
If I have seen further than others, it is
by treading on the toes of giants.
http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/

Tosspot said:

Tom Sherman said:

This bike meets the requirements stated above:
<http://www.outsideconnection.com/gallant/hpv/joe/MVC-007S.JPG>.

You cannot tempt him to the Dark Side yet. Just needs a couple of
sidewinders and an ideal commuter I'd say.

Goose! I have missile lock on his exhaust pipe!

(Sigh. If only Kelly McGillis was there to meet me after a sortie).

But how long till counter-measures are adopted and Max Power magazine
reviews decoy flare launcher kits?

James Annan <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

I'd prefer
<http://www.cyclingnews.com/news.php?id=photos/2005/news/feb05/germany-
cycling-tandem-61> myself, but I have a companion for my commute.

Only really suitable if you've fallen out and don't want to talk to each
other. Can you imagine the fights if it were fixed gear. "We're going this
way!", "No, we're going this way!" It'll all end in tears (or more likely,
in a heap at the side of the road).

Graeme

ship said:

A) a "Crossroad Sport" from manufacturers "Specialised" for c. GBP300

The Crossroads Sport fits your requirements quite well. It is very
"upright" in its default configuration, and although it comes with
38c tyres you can fit 28c. It has reasonably good gearing too. I have
one and I can average 18mph on a 20 mile ride on it.

It also lacks the usual thief magnets like disc brakes and suspension.

Finally, if you spend £300 rather than £400, then presumably you'll
have money left in the budget for a pump, saddlebag, tools, spare tubes,
lights, bottle cage, computer etc etc.

--
jc

Remove the -not from email

ship said:

3. Speed: Fairly FAST please
I am sick of being over-taken by fat women!

No such thing as a fast bike, only a fast rider.

Obviously, a fast rider goes faster or slower depending on which bike
they ride, but there is no substitute for legwork. If you want to stop
being overtaken by fat women you have to start pedalling faster than
them.

d.

in message <[email hidden]>, ship

(') said:

Can anyone recommend a new bike for me?
- What are the best brands?
- Any specific models?

1. Budget: as much as it takes. GBP250 - GBP600?

OK, hang on to your money just now.

Quoted message said:

2. Use: Commuting 20-25mins each way/going out around London.

3. Speed: Fairly FAST please
I am sick of being over-taken by fat women!

4. Nickability: MUST BE LOW
I will have to leave the bike in the street during the day.
I have a heavy motorbike duty D-lock which has stopped
my old bike (with old heavy 7spd sturmey-archer gearbox)
from being stolen. I have left it outside railway stations
over night/over weekends etc not problem.

For this you want a bike which looks ratty and old. There are various
recipes for 'distressing' new bikes, but the simplest solution is to
start with a bike that _is_ ratty and old.

Quoted message said:

5. Seating position: As upright as possible!
I have a long history of having a bad back and leaning
forwards & down irritates it.

Not really compatible with (3) above unless you try a recumbent (but
that may increase nickability because of the WTF factor). An upright
upright is going to be slow both because of aerodynamic drag and
because your muscles are not in the ideal position.

Quoted message said:

6. Reliablity/ build quality
I have now ridden several bikes into the ground.
I am sick of bikes that just arent built very well.
e.g. bearings fail etc etc.

So fit good hubs and a good bottom bracket. Sheesh! If you get the bike
with poor ones, fit good ones when they wear out. If buying second
hand, fitting a pair of new wheels with decent hubs would still be a
lot less than buying a whole new bike. Bikes can't be 'ridden into the
ground', they're easily maintainable.

Quoted message said:

7. Brakes: pretty sharp.
This could save my life. So the need to be sharp even
in the wet etc. But ideally I dont like having them "grab"
from nearly full on, to full on (etc)

8. Gear ratio change: Rapid if possible
I will be spending a lot of time stopping at lights (ahem)
and due to traffic etc. So it would be nice not to have
to spend one's entire life changing between ennumerable
gears!

An epicyclic hub rather than a deraileur seems indicated, then. The
really good one is the Rohloff (14 evenly spaced ratios, German
engineering, never hear of problems, expensive), but the Shimano Nexus
(8 speed, much cheaper) is also pretty good. This has the added
advantage that bikes with epicyclics are likely to be less attractive
to casual thieves, because they only understand deraileurs. Epicyclics
also have the advantage that you can change gear when stationary, e.g.
at traffic lights, and require much less maintenance.

Quoted message said:

9. Robustness: Fairly strong needed.
London is reasonably flat but has many pot-holes!
Also I want something that can cope with going off
at least small curbs - ie I dont want anything too
stupidly "precious"!

I'd suggest three options.

The first is, get a second hand 'cross' bike. A cross bike looks like a
road race bike but is raced off roads. This means it's much stronger
and better brakes (typically cantilever or V type) than the average
road bike, while still having an aerodynamic riding position. Used
cross bikes also tend to look fairly ratty. This meets desiderata 1,
2, 3, 4, 7 and 9; fitting new wheels with an epicyclic would meet
desiderata 6 and 8, leaving only 5.

The second is, get a recumbent. This meets 2, 3 and 5 but unless second
hand badly misses 1.

If you're looking at something new which would meet your criteria I have
two particular suggestions. The first is the Cannondale Street Nexus.
<URL:http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/05/ce/model-5SR3K.html> It's above
your price bracket at about £900, but it's a very high quality bike and
the price includes hub dynamo lighting (no worrying about batteries),
rack and mudguards, and the Nexus 8 speed epicyclic. You would have to
remove or cover up all the badges, because the Cannondale badge is a
thief magnet.

The other is Halfords own brand Nexus-equipped bike, the Carrera Subway
8.
<URL:http://www.halfords.com/opd_product_details.asp?id=18883&type=0&cat=144>
Halfords bikes are on the whole not too special, but this one is
reputedly OK. It does more or less the same job as the Cannondale and
has the same epicyclic, at less than half the price.

Quoted message said:

What other makes have what reputations?
- Ridgeback?

Cheap and not brilliant

Quoted message said:

- Sirus?

Not familiar with this - unless you mean the Specialized Sirrus, which
is quite suitable for what you want but misses on (4), nickability.

Quoted message said:

- Giant?

Usually reliable, not brilliant

Quoted message said:

- Raleigh?

These days, cheap and nasty

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
There's nae Gods, an there's precious few heroes
but there's plenty on the dole in th Land o th Leal;
And it's time now, tae sweep the future clear o
th lies o a past that we know wis never real.

davek said:

No such thing as a fast bike, only a fast rider.

Obviously, a fast rider goes faster or slower depending on which bike
they ride, but there is no substitute for legwork. If you want to stop
being overtaken by fat women you have to start pedalling faster than
them.

This is very true, and there is another side to it: if you have a sexy
racing bike but /don't/ have the legs to really make it fly it's /even
more/ embarrassing to get overtaken by some trundly.

Being a trundly sort of rider I don't generally trouble Real Roadies,
who are much quicker than me, but I have reasonable cycle fitness and
every now and then I come up to someone who looks as if they're just
gone into a shop and bought All The Gear who is Very Miffed at being
overhauled by a chap wearing no lycra at all on a folding bike with 16"
wheels and a shopping bag on the front...

Most bikes /can/ go at a fair speed in a non-racing, utility context if
they have good high pressure tyres backed up with appropriate gearing.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

ship said:

4. Nickability: MUST BE LOW
I will have to leave the bike in the street during the day.
I have a heavy motorbike duty D-lock which has stopped
my old bike (with old heavy 7spd sturmey-archer gearbox)
from being stolen. I have left it outside railway stations
over night/over weekends etc not problem.

Get one fitted with panniers, mudguards etc to make it look more dorky.
Perhaps a big old horn too.

Quoted message said:

In short it needs to be go like the wind but look like hell.

5. Seating position: As upright as possible!
I have a long history of having a bad back and leaning
forwards & down irritates it.

Try some bikes out.

Quoted message said:

6. Reliablity/ build quality
I have now ridden several bikes into the ground.
I am sick of bikes that just arent built very well.
e.g. bearings fail etc etc.

Choose a good brand.

Quoted message said:

7. Brakes: pretty sharp.
This could save my life. So the need to be sharp even
in the wet etc. But ideally I dont like having them "grab"
from nearly full on, to full on (etc)

You'd probably want hydraulic disc brakes then. Might struggle under £500 to
get them.

Quoted message said:

9. Robustness: Fairly strong needed.
London is reasonably flat but has many pot-holes!
Also I want something that can cope with going off
at least small curbs - ie I dont want anything too
stupidly "precious"!

Progress thus far:
I think a mountain bike would be too slow.
And too "nickable"!

A hybrid seems ideal for you. Most of the benefits of road bikes/MTB but
with a more upright riding position.

Quoted message said:

The man in the shop was trying to sell me
A) a "Crossroad Sport" from manufacturers "Specialised" for c. GBP300

or

B) A "Sirrus" also from "Specialised" for c. GBP400

The main problem with the Sirrus is that although
it seems quite fast, apparently I cant put swept-back handle bar on
it. (Better for my spine, I reckon)

What other makes have what reputations?
- Ridgeback?
- Sirus?
- Giant?
- Raleigh?

Ridgeback, Trek, Cannondale, Giant, Specialized are all good brands. You
might also wanna consider an EBC bike, but you'll have to travel to Edinurgh
if you wanna test ride it. Have a look at Merlin Cycles too (dunno if they
do hybrids).

--

Burning_Ranger

To email: [email hidden]

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Hi
Can anyone recommend a new bike for me?
- What are the best brands?
- Any specific models?
1. Budget: as much as it takes. GBP250 - GBP600?
2. Use: Commuting 20-25mins each way/going out around London.
3. Speed: Fairly FAST please
I am sick of being over-taken by fat women!
4. Nickability: MUST BE LOW
I will have to leave the bike in the street during the day.
I have a heavy motorbike duty D-lock which has stopped
my old bike (with old heavy 7spd sturmey-archer gearbox)
from being stolen. I have left it outside railway stations
over night/over weekends etc not problem.
In short it needs to be go like the wind but look like hell.
5. Seating position: As upright as possible!
I have a long history of having a bad back and leaning
forwards & down irritates it.
6. Reliablity/ build quality
I have now ridden several bikes into the ground.
I am sick of bikes that just arent built very well.
e.g. bearings fail etc etc.
7. Brakes: pretty sharp.
This could save my life. So the need to be sharp even
in the wet etc. But ideally I dont like having them "grab"
from nearly full on, to full on (etc)
8. Gear ratio change: Rapid if possible
I will be spending a lot of time stopping at lights (ahem)
and due to traffic etc. So it would be nice not to have
to spend one's entire life changing between ennumerable
gears!
9. Robustness: Fairly strong needed.
London is reasonably flat but has many pot-holes!
Also I want something that can cope with going off
at least small curbs - ie I dont want anything too
stupidly "precious"!
Progress thus far:
I think a mountain bike would be too slow.
And too "nickable"!

The man in the shop was trying to sell me
A) a "Crossroad Sport" from manufacturers "Specialised" for c. GBP300
or
B) A "Sirrus" also from "Specialised" for c. GBP400
The main problem with the Sirrus is that although
it seems quite fast, apparently I cant put swept-back handle bar on it.
(Better for my spine, I reckon)

What other makes have what reputations?
- Ridgeback?
- Sirus?
- Giant?
- Raleigh?

Any thoughts appreciated
With thanks

I suggest you take a look at the Bianchi Milano. It comes with a Shimano Nexus
8 drivetrain that should get you around town with no problmes. The old time
styling makes it less attractive to thieves.
-----------
Alex

Simon Brooke said:

If you're looking at something new which would meet your criteria I have
two particular suggestions. The first is the Cannondale Street Nexus.
<URL:http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/05/ce/model-5SR3K.html> It's above
your price bracket at about £900, but it's a very high quality bike and
the price includes hub dynamo lighting (no worrying about batteries),
rack and mudguards, and the Nexus 8 speed epicyclic. You would have to
remove or cover up all the badges, because the Cannondale badge is a
thief magnet.

The other is Halfords own brand Nexus-equipped bike, the Carrera Subway
8.
<URL:http://www.halfords.com/opd_product_details.asp?id=18883&type=0&cat=144>
Halfords bikes are on the whole not too special, but this one is
reputedly OK. It does more or less the same job as the Cannondale and
has the same epicyclic, at less than half the price.

To add to those suggestions and despite Simon's comments, Ridgeback now
do an own-brand version of the Cannondale, which weighs in at £450. I
recently took one for a test ride and my "limited" views on it can be
found by googling the archives of this group. It therefore fulfills one
more of your criteria than the Cannondale. It does look very "street"
though, with the matt black paint job, so would still be in need of
"dirtying".

Alternatively, the success of the Subway 8 has led to EBC receiving a
number of requests for an own-brand version. I don't know how seriously
they are considering it, but if they do, it'll probably be reasonably
priced for its spec. Phone them and harrass them if you want to further
the process.

Jon

in message <[email hidden]>, Burning_Ranger

(') said:

Quoted message said:

7. Brakes: pretty sharp.
This could save my life. So the need to be sharp even
in the wet etc.  But ideally I dont like having them "grab"
from nearly full on, to full on (etc)

You'd probably want hydraulic disc brakes then. Might struggle under
£500 to get them.

Nononononononono. Hydraulic disk brakes are good, I agree, but they're
gross overkill on a road bike, and they are instant thief magnets. If
you want the extra sensitivity of hydraulic brakes the Magura (HS33?)
rim brakes are a better choice for a bike the thieves won't notice.
Otherwise, cantilevers, Vs or double axis calipers will be perfectly
adequate.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; all in all you're just another click in the call
;; -- Minke Bouyed

ship said:

Hi

Can anyone recommend a new bike for me?

*Everyone* can recommend a new bike for you. The trick is finding one
you like yourself :-)

Executive summary: get enough of a test ride to be sure you'll get on
with the bike, the important thing is going to be finding something
you're sure doesn't aggravate that back. Seriously consider a hub gear
and leave some budget for the little things like luggage, mudguards and
so on.

Quoted message said:

5. Seating position: As upright as possible!
I have a long history of having a bad back and leaning
forwards & down irritates it.

Ah. That should prove a suitably large problem. Whatever you do, get
a good long test ride in on whatever you choose, and don't assume it'll
get better as you get used to the bike. It'll probably get better, but
it might just get worse, and if it becomes a problem six months down
the line you'll have a very expensive bike gathering dust in the shed.

Quoted message said:

6. Reliablity/ build quality
I have now ridden several bikes into the ground.
I am sick of bikes that just arent built very well.
e.g. bearings fail etc etc.

A lot of things can be fixed by getting a competent shop to service it
once a year. Any bike that's hammered twice a day and left outside in
all weathers will suffer without maintenance, and we're all
occasionally lax about such things.

Having said that, a hub gear would keep most of the bits tucked away
out of the path of grit and grime, and the Nexus ones are being fitted
to a few decent urban bikes these days. Ridgeback Nemesis/Neutron,
Bianchi Milano for added Italian flair, Trek L200, probably at least
one Giant, and doubtless many others I've missed.

Quoted message said:

7. Brakes: pretty sharp.
This could save my life. So the need to be sharp even
in the wet etc. But ideally I dont like having them "grab"
from nearly full on, to full on (etc)

Most modern brakes will be good enough. Decent V-brakes will be all
you need, anything else increases the nickability factor more than the
braking. Again, take a test ride and see how you get on with them.

Quoted message said:

8. Gear ratio change: Rapid if possible
I will be spending a lot of time stopping at lights (ahem)
and due to traffic etc. So it would be nice not to have
to spend one's entire life changing between ennumerable
gears!

Definitely consider hub gears. Shifting at a standstill in traffic is
surprisingly useful, and having a straight 7 or 8 speed setup is much
simpler than three on the front, nine on the back and fourteen usable
combinations.

Quoted message said:

Progress thus far:
I think a mountain bike would be too slow.
And too "nickable"!

Have a look at the urbanised mountain bikes around, a MTB with rigid
forks and slicks is quite speedy enough. The problem you'd have would
be that leant-over riding position again.

Quoted message said:

The man in the shop was trying to sell me
A) a "Crossroad Sport" from manufacturers "Specialised" for c. GBP300

or

B) A "Sirrus" also from "Specialised" for c. GBP400

The main problem with the Sirrus is that although
it seems quite fast, apparently I cant put swept-back handle bar on

it.

Quoted message said:

(Better for my spine, I reckon)

The Sirrus is one of the new breed of flat-barred racing bikes. I
wouldn't touch them if you have a bad back, they are definitely
designed for those that want to lean over and hammer. Great bike, very
popular, just not what you want. The Crossroads looks much more like
what you'd be better off with from Specialised.

Quoted message said:

What other makes have what reputations?
- Ridgeback?
- Sirus?
- Giant?
- Raleigh?

If you like the feel of a bike and the spec is reasonable, the name is
a bit secondary. However, some manufacturers are more likely to do
what you want than others. Bearing in mind that I work for a shop that
sells Ridgeback and Raleigh:

Ridgeback: worth a look, they do a lot of bikes aimed at the typical
London commuter and have been pretty reliable for us. I'd
instinctively point you at something in their Rapide range of hybrids
(the Neutron in particular). Get the dealer to stick an adjustable
stem and riser bars on it if you can. Looks fairly understated too so
*hopefully* the thieves would avoid it.

Sirus: the only mention I can find is of the Specialised Sirrus, I
think you might be confusing make and model.

Giant: can't really comment on their town bikes, seem okay from the
MTBs I've seen.

Raleigh: I rather hope my employer doesn't read this, but the quality
of Raleighs is going downhill faster than their bikes could ever hope
to. The only one in their whole range worth considering is last year's
P8000 for 300 of your UK pounds - halfway decent components for the
price, a bit heavy, especially the frame, not too flashy.

Hi

Okay thanks everyone for your input.
I much enjoyed the photos!

1. HUB GEARS.
One thing I'm *not* happy about though, is the hub-gear suggestions.

Yes it'll help stop the bide from being nicked and
yes they are (apparently) zero maintenance and
yes they are dead easy to change gears at traffic lights etc.

HOWEVER, having driven one for about 5 year around London
(a Giant thing cost about GBP350 new), I am now very against them.

The problem is that a) they are *extremely* heavy [atleast mine was]
and b) they are less efficient - i.e. [Cue spectre's large, lardy arses
over-taking]

Look, I'm mid 40s, medium build and pretty fit. I dont like breaking
sweat going to work, but I cycle hard and once I get going I often only
wear a shirt on upper body, even in mid winter!

But I do NOT like fat-arsed women wearing many layers of clothing
over-taking me, apparently without even breaking sweat!
Okay so it only happens rarely... but IT SHOULDNT HAPPEN AT ALL!!

Also my hub gear bike was pretty difficult to set up correctly so that
it changed gear cleanly. And finally the damned thing has
now seized up completely. I suspect the breaks may have been dragging
too quite badly on occassion...

HOWEVER I would be fascinated to know if anyone has any hard facts on
this "efficiency" issue. How much faster would the same bike
(yes, yes same rider, same everything) go if it had the a
good-ish derailer vs if it had hub gears. Put another way, what is the
energy efficiency rate for different types of gears?!

2. SECOND HAND BIKE SUGGESTIONS
I bought a second hand bike about 7 years ago. It was a tough looking
mountain bike - and bit by bit every damned thing on the bike
failed! My accountant worked out that I'd spent over GBP450 in
on year on the goddam thing (including labour to be fair).

Bl**dy rediculous!

So this time I want something well made and new.
e.g. I want pedals that spin properly - why cant anyone design pedals
with efficient ball bearings?
And I want wheels whose bearings wont blow up after a year.
I want brake cable that wont need replacing after 6 months to a year
etc etc etc!

3. HANDLE BARS / ROAD POSSITION
This is very tricky. I do want something reasonably fast & light.
This seems to mean that I need to think about bikes that are more like
a road bike (racer-like??) - that is leaning over type designs.

But I want to be as AS UPRIGHT AS POSSIBLE (for my back) even if it
does
slow me down. I am thinking about sticking on some swept-back
handlebars...

4. ADAPTABILITY
One thing that has always TOTALLY hacked me off about bicycles
is that they are *so* badly designed for doing your own thing.
e.g. if I want to swap out my hub gears for derailerd gear - and why
the
heck not! But no, all kinds of sucking of teeth. Likewise if I want to
change handle bars all the better made bikes seem to say no-way-hose!
Drives me frickin nuts.

That's it for now

Have a gr8 weekend everyone.
Many thanks

Ship
Shiperton Henether
(starter of this thread...)

begin quoting ship <[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

One thing I'm *not* happy about though, is the hub-gear suggestions.
The problem is that a) they are *extremely* heavy [atleast mine was]
and b) they are less efficient
I suspect the breaks may have been dragging too quite badly on occassion...

Gosh, I wonder if poor brake maintenance could be to blame!

A hub gear's only marginally heavier than a full derailleur setup - the
fallacy is to ignore things like extra chainrings - and only marginally
less efficient (assuming the derailleur is well lubed and not gratuitously
crossed over - otherwise, the hub gear wins).
--
David Damerell <[email hidden]> flcl?
Today is Second Friday, February.

in message <[email hidden]>, ship

(') said:

Hi

Okay thanks everyone for your input.
I much enjoyed the photos!

1. HUB GEARS.
One thing I'm *not* happy about though, is the hub-gear suggestions.

Yes it'll help stop the bide from being nicked and
yes they are (apparently) zero maintenance and
yes they are dead easy to change gears at traffic lights etc.

HOWEVER, having driven one for about 5 year around London
(a Giant thing cost about GBP350 new), I am now very against them.

The problem is that a) they are *extremely* heavy [atleast mine was]
and b) they are less efficient - i.e. [Cue spectre's large, lardy
arses over-taking]

They are very slightly less efficient (except in the one direct drive
gear that all epicyclics have in which they are more efficient) than a
perfectly clean derailleur, but when you add up the weight of all the
parts you need for a derailleur set-up that you don't need on an
epicyclic (one or two extra chainrings, up to nine extra sprockets, two
mechs, extra chain, one extra control) you'll be lucky if the
derailleur system weighs more than 100g less.

Quoted message said:

2. SECOND HAND BIKE SUGGESTIONS
I bought a second hand bike about 7 years ago. It was a tough looking
mountain bike - and bit by bit every damned thing on the bike
failed! My accountant worked out that I'd spent over GBP450 in
on year on the goddam thing (including labour to be fair).

How much do you expect to spend on commuting in London? How many
journeys on the tube would that £450 buy you? How many taxi fares?

Quoted message said:

3. HANDLE BARS / ROAD POSSITION
This is very tricky. I do want something reasonably fast & light.
This seems to mean that I need to think about bikes that are more like
a road bike (racer-like??) - that is leaning over type designs.

But I want to be as AS UPRIGHT AS POSSIBLE (for my back) even if it
does
slow me down. I am thinking about sticking on some swept-back
handlebars...

Then you aren't going to go fast. It isn't aerodynamic and more
important it isn't ergonomic.

Quoted message said:

4. ADAPTABILITY
One thing that has always TOTALLY hacked me off about bicycles
is that they are *so* badly designed for doing your own thing.
e.g. if I want to swap out my hub gears for derailerd gear - and why
the
heck not! But no, all kinds of sucking of teeth.

Well, derailleur systems have chain adjustment built in automatically,
so normally don't have length adjustment in the drop outs; hub gears
must have length adjustment in the drop outs because that's how you
adjust for chain stretch.

Quoted message said:

Likewise if I want to
change handle bars all the better made bikes seem to say no-way-hose!

That really should not be hard on any moderately normal bike.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

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