Saturday morning I woke up by the gale rattling my window. I had planned
to go for a walk in the Rhinogydd, but the wind was just too strong to be
comfortable with that idea. Apart from the wind the weather was ok-ish, and
by lunchtime I decided I better go somewhere inland and nearer home: Domen
Milwyn and the wilderness just south of it. Some photos are at
http://users.aber.ac.uk/ruw/album/050528.html .
Arriving at Cwmystwyth it looked as if it was going to be wet, but I was
lucky and didn't have any rain all day. The village is north of the river,
which is quite fast flowing just above the Ystwyth gorge. There where
interesting patterns carved into the rocks by the water. Walking steadily
up a track, then a rough path, then across open ground towards Domen Milwyn.
The hill is a long rocky lump sitting on top of the otherwise fairly uniform
moorland. The relatively small elevation of the ridge above the immediate
surroundings make the summit cairn look totally out of proportion!
On the way up, some helpful soul had marked a stile some way to the side of
the path in fluorescent yellow to mark a good point to cross the Nant Milwyn.
It had been dry for a week and crossing the stream would have been easy in
most places, but after a week of rain this might turn out quite helpful.
I didn't have much trouble with the wind on the way up, but on the summit
I had difficulty standing upright in some gusts. Better move on quickly,
although the views from here are stunning - it's as wild as it gets (and
that just half an hour from home!).
I turned south past Llyn Fyrddon Fawr, an ancient reservoir, and onto the
Esgair Garregnawllyn ridge. The name suggests there might be nine lakes
visible, but I could see only seven. Maybe the irregularly shaped Llyn
Teifi reservoir contains several natural lakes. I had expected this to
be very boggy, but it is extremely nice walking, much of the time on rough
grass, and the views are excellent.
It was getting a bit chilly in the wind by now, so I pressed on to the
access road to the Teifi pools, and then onto the ridge between Llyn Hir
and Llyn Teifi, where I stopped for a bite. Then circling around Llyn Teifi
and across pathless and slightly boggy open country towards Loft Lwyd.
The next four kilometres were a rather unexpiring slog along a rough track
ending in a barbed wire nightmare just before getting onto the path leading
into Ystwyth gorge. On the way down, I saw a dead lamb on the path. It
had a bloody hip bone sticking out of the back; the blood looking still
fresh and liquid. It was about 7pm - I wouldn't have thought foxes are
out at that time of day? A few moments later I saw another walker (the
only one I saw all day) with an Alsatian. Would the dog maybe have...?
The final section led through the Ystwyth gorge with some nice views of
rock formations in the water. Pont Dologau at the southern end is a
kind of spaghetti junction of four bridges (an old and a new one each
across the Ystwyth and a tributary). I missed the path here and went
straight into the gorge, so I had to climb up steeply by 30m or so in the
forest to get back to the path and then to Cwmystwyth, where I arrived just
after dark.
The first half was much better than expected, the second half was rather
boring, and the gorge is noted for a repeat in autumn when there's more
water.
--
Rudi Winter, Aberystwyth, Wales