"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:M_e5f.5928$vk1.752@dukeread04...
Quoted message said:
G.T. said:
"GeeDubb" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
"Ride-A-Lot" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > GeeDubb wrote: >> >> "Ride-A-Lot" <[email hidden]> wrote in message >> news:[email hidden]... >>> Max wrote: >>>> G.T. wrote: >>>>> I believe Zinn did a blind study of perception >>>>> and power awhile back. >>>> >>>> Speaking of Zinn, he addresses crank length here - >>>> http://www.insidetri.com/train/bike/articles/1875.0.html >>> >>> Ugh! I ain't measuring my femur or any other part of my body >>> (well almost) for that matter. I just went with what ever feels >>> best and since I have never used anything other than 175, that >>> feels best to me. Tri-geeks are always looking for a millimeter >>> of performance gain. As long as I can move my feet and get the >>> bike to go, I'm happy. If it requires that much effort to figure >>> out how long my cranks should be, then this isn't fun anymore. >>> Besides, if I felt the crank was too short I'd just lower my >>> seatpost the 5mm or vice versa. >>> >>> It doesn't have to be that difficult. >>> >>> -- >>> o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o >>> www.schnauzers.ws >> >> But what about the upward motion? If you lower your seat then the >> top of the spin is affected. And please, PLEASE, don't give us any >> measurements....... >> >> Gary > > I'd have to see how that works. I don't see what the difference is > if I lower/raise my seat or get shorter/longer cranks. Wouldn't I > still be the same distance to the pedals? Granted, the upper body > geometry (shoulder angle to bars) would change, but for a 5'5" guy > 1/4" is not going to make a hill of beans. If it were that > important, I could add another +/-5 degree rise to the bars. > > -- > o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o > www.schnauzers.ws
What happens is that your knees may start to bother you. I was having pain in the top of my knees. I raised the seat about 1/4" and the pain went away. Maybe is was a placebo effect, mostly mental, but the pain went away.
I went through the same with my Turner. I was trying to run my seat as low as possible to help with COG, I started having knee pain, so I started raising my seatpost until the pain went away. And it did.
Greg
When you say COG do you really mean COG or do you mean maneuvering clearance? In other words, more easy to get back behind the saddle?
I've got Icon Sterling 180's and they're fairly heavy, but since I stand a lot, and weigh around 180lbs, they're ideal for me. Very strong, and look fairly cool, not that there's anything wrong with that.
I run RF TLP 180s on a couple of my other bikes and they are lasting well. I ran them on my SS and snapped three in the span of about 18 months. SS requires drivetrain components that are much stronger than what works on geared bikes. Don't let some web-sales idiot tell you what works for you, especially when they don't know you or how you ride.
JD
Based on the stories and pictures, I've always wondered why you haven't just went ahead and gone with BMX cro-moly tubular steel cranks. Those I'm sure you'll never break. -- Phil, Squid-in-Training
I was considering Bullseyes, but they are over 3 Franklins a pop. The ENOs are standing up well, except for the stock chainring, which seems to be made from 6000 series aluminum. I'm going to replace it with steel soon. As far as Dean's comment about bling goes, I could care less about how shiny or expensive something is. I just want what works and I don't have to replace with great frequency.
It's around $150 retail. Only problem would be the bottom bracket wearing out if the bearings are real small. Plus you need a specific BB. -- Phil, Squid-in-Training
"JD" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Dean A. Stepper said:
No they loosen up after a few miles, I need to get over to the bike shop and get longer chainring bolts. The male part is not getting a good enough bite into the female part and stripping out easily.
