Nick Finnigan said:
Quoted message said:Quoted message said:What defines an adequate bike for commuting by an average person?
It depends on the person, the commute, the workplace. What might be
adequate for my commute might be entirely unsuitable for someone
else's. Give me an example and I'll suggest an adequate bike; but
there are so many combinations of person/commute/workplace such that
pretty much every sort of unicycle/bike/trike would be a perfectly
suitable machine for at least one of them.
"Inna flat area", the workplace in mind I think was either a hospital
or a supermarket and so suburban, the person was "average", so about 35,
bit of a coach potato, not cycled for over a decade...
In that scenario, I'd be looking for a bike with the following;
Flat handlebars; urban cycling up to around 10 miles each way, I'd
prefer these over drops; you get a better view over car traffic, at the
expense of worse wind resistance. Bar ends offer an alternate hand
position for longer rides. A newcomer or long-time-off-returner to
cycling might want to go for one of the handlebars with adjustable
positions to experiment with the most comfortable.
Slick tyres, assuming entirely/mostly road, off-road cycle path, or
towpath; knobbly tyres are only useful for mud and dramatically increase
your effort riding on hard ground, not to mention their alarming ability
to squirm in corners. I'd recommend Schwalbe Marathons, Schwalbe
Marathon Plus; other people have other favourites.
Avoid any form of front fork or frame suspension; it will add weight and
expense (and effort spent) for very little benefit. (Having said that,
I have a bike that I use for commuting which has suspension forks; I
keep them as stiff as possible on the road, but I also take it out on
gentle trails when I slacken them off). However, if your route is
particularly bumpy, a suspension seatpost or sprung saddle may be more
comfortable.
Full mudguards. Absolutely and definitely.
Rear rack and pannier(s), which will avoid a sweaty back/rucksack.
Cheap panniers have to be strapped or velcro'd on, and are a bit of a
PITA if you have to keep putting them on and off to avoid them getting
nicked. More expensive panniers are waterproof, and just click on and
off at the touch of a button; I swear by them.
If the person is reasonably competant mechanically, then derailleur
gears are fine; they need occasional care. If they're completely
hopeless mechanically, consider a hub gear; more expensive, slightly
less efficient, virtually zero maintenance. Hub gears also easily
permit fully enclosed chaincases, but that's what trouser clips and
socks are for.
Saddles are very much a personal thing; one person's saddle is another's
literal PITA. But, generally, harder are better than softer.
LED battery lights of the appropriate are adequate for urban cycling
under streetlights, but it's quite a personal preference as to how much
light you like to output.
A bike following those guidelines should be obtainable for around UKP
200-300 and be perfectly adequate for the job.
R.