All of a sudden, two spokes have broken in two weeks. Here are the details:
- Broken spokes were Radial-spoked CX-Ray NDS Rear - 32 hole OCR rim/Record Hub - Spoke tension is very even - I use a tensiometer - Breakage is at the bend - 2000 or so miles on the set, problem-free prior
I just don't get why this is happening. Bad spokes? I saw it suggested elsewhere that a under-spec spoke hole (diameter) in the hub could cause this as well. DS is around 95 kgf. NDS is whatever it took to dish it properly (didn't do the conversion, just made sure they were evenly tensioned).
All of a sudden, two spokes have broken in two weeks. Here are the details:
- Broken spokes were Radial-spoked CX-Ray NDS Rear - 32 hole OCR rim/Record Hub - Spoke tension is very even - I use a tensiometer - Breakage is at the bend - 2000 or so miles on the set, problem-free prior
I just don't get why this is happening. Bad spokes? I saw it suggested elsewhere that a under-spec spoke hole (diameter) in the hub could cause this as well. DS is around 95 kgf. NDS is whatever it took to dish it properly (didn't do the conversion, just made sure they were evenly tensioned).
Thanks for your input,
D'ohBoy
Without knowing the actual build technique, the first thing that comes to mind is this - even spoke tension is good but high tension is bad even if they're all the same. The spoke should have some spec on the maximum tension. Keep well below this. The fact that you don't know the NDS tension makes me suspect you had to over compensate to dish the wheel. Try backing off the tension on the DS a bit, not so much that the wheel gets soft, but enough so it's easier to dish without really cranking the NDS. OCR rims were developed in part to eliminate this problem, so checking the NDS tension should tell you if you have over stressed to spokes.
All of a sudden, two spokes have broken in two weeks. Here are the details:
Quoted message said:
- Broken spokes were Radial-spoked CX-Ray NDS Rear - 32 hole OCR rim/Record Hub - Spoke tension is very even - I use a tensiometer - Breakage is at the bend - 2000 or so miles on the set, problem-free prior
Quoted message said:
I just don't get why this is happening. Bad spokes? I saw it suggested elsewhere that a under-spec spoke hole (diameter) in the hub could cause this as well. DS is around 95 kgf. NDS is whatever it took to dish it properly (didn't do the conversion, just made sure they were evenly tensioned).
Quoted message said:
Thanks for your input,
Quoted message said:
D'ohBoy
Without knowing the actual build technique, the first thing that comes to mind is this - even spoke tension is good but high tension is bad even if they're all the same. The spoke should have some spec on the maximum tension. Keep well below this. The fact that you don't know the NDS tension makes me suspect you had to over compensate to dish the wheel. Try backing off the tension on the DS a bit, not so much that the wheel gets soft, but enough so it's easier to dish without really cranking the NDS. OCR rims were developed in part to eliminate this problem, so checking the NDS tension should tell you if you have over stressed to spokes.
NDS is significantly lower than DS, as one would expect given the difference in spoke angle (even with the OCR rim). I DO know that the tension NDS on the tensiometer scale was around 1/2 that of the DS, and DS ain't breaking. So the NDS spokes aren't "over stressed".
All of a sudden, two spokes have broken in two weeks. Here are the details:
- Broken spokes were Radial-spoked CX-Ray NDS Rear - 32 hole OCR rim/Record Hub - Spoke tension is very even - I use a tensiometer - Breakage is at the bend - 2000 or so miles on the set, problem-free prior
I just don't get why this is happening. Bad spokes? I saw it suggested elsewhere that a under-spec spoke hole (diameter) in the hub could cause this as well. DS is around 95 kgf. NDS is whatever it took to dish it properly (didn't do the conversion, just made sure they were evenly tensioned).
Thanks for your input,
D'ohBoy
Is the rim round? That is, no deformity from riding? Broken spokes on a used wheel generally means that at that spot, tension is low..kinda like bending a coat hanger back and forth, back and firth...
Might raise tension to a wee bit above 100 kgf, and make sure tension is even, even if it means you may have a slight 'flat' spot.
All of a sudden, two spokes have broken in two weeks. Here are the details:
Quoted message said:
- Broken spokes were Radial-spoked CX-Ray NDS Rear - 32 hole OCR rim/Record Hub - Spoke tension is very even - I use a tensiometer - Breakage is at the bend - 2000 or so miles on the set, problem-free prior
Quoted message said:
I just don't get why this is happening. Bad spokes? I saw it suggested elsewhere that a under-spec spoke hole (diameter) in the hub could cause this as well. DS is around 95 kgf. NDS is whatever it took to dish it properly (didn't do the conversion, just made sure they were evenly tensioned).
Quoted message said:
Thanks for your input,
Quoted message said:
D'ohBoy
Without knowing the actual build technique, the first thing that comes to mind is this - even spoke tension is good but high tension is bad even if they're all the same. The spoke should have some spec on the maximum tension. Keep well below this. The fact that you don't know the NDS tension makes me suspect you had to over compensate to dish the wheel. Try backing off the tension on the DS a bit, not so much that the wheel gets soft, but enough so it's easier to dish without really cranking the NDS. OCR rims were developed in part to eliminate this problem, so checking the NDS tension should tell you if you have over stressed to spokes.
95 kgf is somewhat low for this rim and spoe dimension doesn't matter, tension is tension..and is determined at max by the rim, not the spokes.
On Aug 30, 8:47 am, D'ohBoy <[email hidden]> wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
All of a sudden, two spokes have broken in two weeks. Here are the details:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
- Broken spokes were Radial-spoked CX-Ray NDS Rear - 32 hole OCR rim/Record Hub - Spoke tension is very even - I use a tensiometer - Breakage is at the bend - 2000 or so miles on the set, problem-free prior
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
I just don't get why this is happening. Bad spokes? I saw it suggested elsewhere that a under-spec spoke hole (diameter) in the hub could cause this as well. DS is around 95 kgf. NDS is whatever it took to dish it properly (didn't do the conversion, just made sure they were evenly tensioned).
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Thanks for your input,
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
D'ohBoy
Quoted message said:
Without knowing the actual build technique, the first thing that comes to mind is this - even spoke tension is good but high tension is bad even if they're all the same. The spoke should have some spec on the maximum tension. Keep well below this. The fact that you don't know the NDS tension makes me suspect you had to over compensate to dish the wheel. Try backing off the tension on the DS a bit, not so much that the wheel gets soft, but enough so it's easier to dish without really cranking the NDS. OCR rims were developed in part to eliminate this problem, so checking the NDS tension should tell you if you have over stressed to spokes.
95 kgf is somewhat low for this rim and spoe dimension doesn't matter, tension is tension..and is determined at max by the rim, not the spokes.
This is an IRD Cadence. Were you thinking of a Velocity Aerohead? The rim has a minor out-of-round, and by minor, I mean less than 0.5 mm but not a flat spot per se.
I had to back off of the spoke tension as the rim started to distort when I got much above my current level. Wondering if the rim just ain't strong enough for my weight, even given the 32 spokes.
using a magnifier, bright light, examine inside outside spoke bends for surface cracks. If you're not familiar with the process, root out worn spokes from the trash and compare. There's a dye for this sold at NAPA? entertaining for sure. The deal is, if cracks show, then scrap the spokes: beats reassembly and two more snaps. WPITA!
using a magnifier, bright light, examine inside outside spoke bends for surface cracks. If you're not familiar with the process, root out worn spokes from the trash and compare. There's a dye for this sold at NAPA? entertaining for sure. The deal is, if cracks show, then scrap the spokes: beats reassembly and two more snaps. WPITA!
BTW, use my teflon wax hub spoke hole lube method! allows generic spoke survival under load and with exotic hub/spoke combos increases mechanism efficiency in the torque rod area.
All of a sudden, two spokes have broken in two weeks. Here are the details:
- Broken spokes were Radial-spoked CX-Ray NDS Rear - 32 hole OCR rim/Record Hub - Spoke tension is very even - I use a tensiometer - Breakage is at the bend - 2000 or so miles on the set, problem-free prior
I just don't get why this is happening. Bad spokes? I saw it suggested elsewhere that a under-spec spoke hole (diameter) in the hub could cause this as well. DS is around 95 kgf. NDS is whatever it took to dish it properly (didn't do the conversion, just made sure they were evenly tensioned).
Thanks for your input,
D'ohBoy
did you stress relieve it jobst-style when building it?
All of a sudden, two spokes have broken in two weeks. Here are the details:
Quoted message said:
- Broken spokes were Radial-spoked CX-Ray NDS Rear - 32 hole OCR rim/Record Hub - Spoke tension is very even - I use a tensiometer - Breakage is at the bend - 2000 or so miles on the set, problem-free prior
Quoted message said:
I just don't get why this is happening. Bad spokes? I saw it suggested elsewhere that a under-spec spoke hole (diameter) in the hub could cause this as well. DS is around 95 kgf. NDS is whatever it took to dish it properly (didn't do the conversion, just made sure they were evenly tensioned).
Quoted message said:
Thanks for your input,
Quoted message said:
D'ohBoy
did you stress relieve it jobst-style when building it?
Yes. And again after the first spoke snapped (at the bend too!).
pour some neatsfoot on the hub! seriously. Nature wants free movement at the hub/spoke bend- increasingly small with tension so lube as a hole or gap filling layer both sides. The bend does not gaul, does not crack, as much.
THIS MESSAGE WAS BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE ANTI-SPOKE GAUL CRUSADE
On Aug 30, 5:47 am, D'ohBoy <[email hidden]> wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
All of a sudden, two spokes have broken in two weeks. Here are the details:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
- Broken spokes were Radial-spoked CX-Ray NDS Rear - 32 hole OCR rim/Record Hub - Spoke tension is very even - I use a tensiometer - Breakage is at the bend - 2000 or so miles on the set, problem-free prior
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
I just don't get why this is happening. Bad spokes? I saw it suggested elsewhere that a under-spec spoke hole (diameter) in the hub could cause this as well. DS is around 95 kgf. NDS is whatever it took to dish it properly (didn't do the conversion, just made sure they were evenly tensioned).
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Thanks for your input,
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
D'ohBoy
Quoted message said:
did you stress relieve it jobst-style when building it?
Yes. And again after the first spoke snapped (at the bend too!).
D'ohBoy.
pretty weird.... you mentioned the idea that an under-spec spoke hole could cause this. i have no idea about that -seems like snugger has to be better and i don't see how it could increase fatigue to the spoke- but maybe an over-spec spoke hole could cause this, the same way that if you use a 1.8/1.6 spoke in a spoke hole that's way too large for it, the elbow won't be properly supported. but this probably isn't whats going on, of course.
seems like blaming the spokes is pretty reasonable.
All of a sudden, two spokes have broken in two weeks. Here are the details:
- Broken spokes were Radial-spoked CX-Ray NDS Rear - 32 hole OCR rim/Record Hub - Spoke tension is very even - I use a tensiometer - Breakage is at the bend - 2000 or so miles on the set, problem-free prior
I just don't get why this is happening. Bad spokes? I saw it suggested elsewhere that a under-spec spoke hole (diameter) in the hub could cause this as well. DS is around 95 kgf. NDS is whatever it took to dish it properly (didn't do the conversion, just made sure they were evenly tensioned).
Thanks for your input,
You did not say that you stress relieved the spokes of the fully tensioned wheel. This is the step that most reduces the rate of spoke fracture at the elbow.
Are they laced heads-in or out? I'm thinking heads-in if you are getting 1/2 tension on the NDS with an OC rim. I think it is important to bend the spoke elbows so the spokes point towards the rim (or even a little past) without bending stress. I do this on radial spokes with a rubber hammer, when there is significant tension in the spokes but not the final amount.
All of a sudden, two spokes have broken in two weeks. Here are the details:
- Broken spokes were Radial-spoked CX-Ray NDS Rear - 32 hole OCR rim/Record Hub - Spoke tension is very even - I use a tensiometer - Breakage is at the bend - 2000 or so miles on the set, problem-free prior
I just don't get why this is happening. Bad spokes? I saw it suggested elsewhere that a under-spec spoke hole (diameter) in the hub could cause this as well. DS is around 95 kgf. NDS is whatever it took to dish it properly (didn't do the conversion, just made sure they were evenly tensioned).
Thanks for your input,
D'ohBoy
I'm no expert, but the last time I had trouble with spokes breaking, the LBS found that my Mavic rim had a cracked spoke hole. They ordered another Mavic rim, and I kept breaking spokes. By the third spoke and rebuild, the replacement rim showed _ten_ cracked spoke holes!
I got a Velocity Aerohead rim, as it was the only one I could find with blue anodizing (Mavic stopped making them, the scoundrels!).
did you stress relieve it jobst-style when building it?
Yes. And again after the first spoke snapped (at the bend too!).
D'ohBoy.
Stress-relieving isn't the whole story. Very important that, when you first build it up, *before* putting much tension on the spokes, that you physically bend the spokes over, at the head, so they take a nice, straight path from hub to rim. Stress-relieving tends to accomplish this by default (when grasping adjacent spokes and pulling them together), but you're best off to first make sure that path is perfectly straight. This will make tensioning the wheel easier as well, because you're not fighting the spoke (forcing it to straighten out) as you tighten it. It's already straight.