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New carbon fork install

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Cycling Equipment
Published
15 September 2007
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16 September 2007
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Jeff
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  1. I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    that I would like to replace with a carbon one. The frame requires a 1"
    steerer. I'm currently about 220 pounds and ride hard and long, but don't do
    any real racing - but I do train with some fairly serious racers who really
    push me.

    ....anyway, I've never ridden or installed one of the threadless headsets or
    forks, but have installed one or two of the older threaded versions, have
    the proper headset press, and have read the instructions for the threadless
    variety.

    I don't want to spend a fortune upgrading a decent, but not terribly
    expensive frame so I'm looking for a few used parts on ebay.

    I'll be getting a new Chris King headset, and I've already bought a good
    carbon handlebar. ...still need to find a good stem of the right length.

    Three questions:

    1) what do I need to consider in regard to carbon forks for larger riders?
    brands to looks for and avoid? ...most current forks seem to claim that they
    have no weight limits, but I've read some comments that some aren't quite
    stiff enough for 200+ pound riders.

    2) any special considerations for used carbon forks? ...other than to make
    sure that the steerer tube is long enough?

    3) any special tricks or advice when installing the fork and/or new headset?

    Thanks in advance

    Jeff

    --
    Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

  2. Jeff said:

    I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    that I would like to replace with a carbon one. The frame requires a 1"
    steerer. I'm currently about 220 pounds and ride hard and long, but don't do
    any real racing - but I do train with some fairly serious racers who really
    push me.

    ...anyway, I've never ridden or installed one of the threadless headsets or
    forks, but have installed one or two of the older threaded versions, have
    the proper headset press, and have read the instructions for the threadless
    variety.

    I don't want to spend a fortune upgrading a decent, but not terribly
    expensive frame so I'm looking for a few used parts on ebay.

    I'll be getting a new Chris King headset, and I've already bought a good
    carbon handlebar. ...still need to find a good stem of the right length.

    Three questions:

    1) what do I need to consider in regard to carbon forks for larger riders?
    brands to looks for and avoid? ...most current forks seem to claim that they
    have no weight limits, but I've read some comments that some aren't quite
    stiff enough for 200+ pound riders.

    2) any special considerations for used carbon forks? ...other than to make
    sure that the steerer tube is long enough?

    3) any special tricks or advice when installing the fork and/or new headset?

    Thanks in advance

    Jeff

    --
    Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

    I would avoid a used carbon fork. Who knows what it's been through. I
    would avoid carbon bars at all costs. Particularly at your size. I've
    seen 2 different carbon bars snap for riders much smaller. I'm 200+
    and I've ridden bikes with cheap carbon forks and expensive ones, and
    I can't say as I noticed any difference in terms of stiffness. I don't
    think that really matters. If I were you, I go for a new fork and let
    my wallet decide which one.

    Joseph

  3. Jeff said:

    I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    that I would like to replace with a carbon one. The frame requires a 1"
    steerer. I'm currently about 220 pounds and ride hard and long, but don't do
    any real racing - but I do train with some fairly serious racers who really
    push me.

    ...anyway, I've never ridden or installed one of the threadless headsets or
    forks, but have installed one or two of the older threaded versions, have
    the proper headset press, and have read the instructions for the threadless
    variety.

    I don't want to spend a fortune upgrading a decent, but not terribly
    expensive frame so I'm looking for a few used parts on ebay.

    I'll be getting a new Chris King headset, and I've already bought a good
    carbon handlebar. ...still need to find a good stem of the right length.

    Three questions:

    1) what do I need to consider in regard to carbon forks for larger riders?
    brands to looks for and avoid? ...most current forks seem to claim that they
    have no weight limits, but I've read some comments that some aren't quite
    stiff enough for 200+ pound riders.

    Reynolds is a good choice BUT

    Quoted message said:


    2) any special considerations for used carbon forks? ...other than to make
    sure that the steerer tube is long enough?

    I would not buy a used carbon anything. You don't know it's history
    and breaking a fork really hurts.

    Quoted message said:


    3) any special tricks or advice when installing the fork and/or new headset?

    Take a trip down to a decent LBS and get a primer.

    Quoted message said:


    Thanks in advance

    Jeff

    --
    Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

  4. Jeff said:

    I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by
    a small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel
    fork that I would like to replace with a carbon one. The frame requires
    a 1" steerer. I'm currently about 220 pounds and ride hard and long, but
    don't do any real racing - but I do train with some fairly serious
    racers who really push me.

    ...anyway, I've never ridden or installed one of the threadless headsets
    or forks, but have installed one or two of the older threaded versions,
    have the proper headset press, and have read the instructions for the
    threadless variety.

    I don't want to spend a fortune upgrading a decent, but not terribly
    expensive frame so I'm looking for a few used parts on ebay.

    I'll be getting a new Chris King headset, and I've already bought a good
    carbon handlebar. ...still need to find a good stem of the right length.

    Three questions:

    1) what do I need to consider in regard to carbon forks for larger
    riders? brands to looks for and avoid? ...most current forks seem to
    claim that they have no weight limits, but I've read some comments that
    some aren't quite stiff enough for 200+ pound riders.

    2) any special considerations for used carbon forks? ...other than to
    make sure that the steerer tube is long enough?

    3) any special tricks or advice when installing the fork and/or new
    headset?

    Thanks in advance

    Jeff

    in my experience, 1" carbon forks are best with a steel steerer - if you
    can find one these days. carbon and aluminum steerers in that diameter
    tend to be noticeably more flexible.

    administer the "squeeze test" on the new fork before fitting it. if you
    hear any noise, cracking, creaking, etc., return the fork as defective
    and get your money back. i've had a couple of kestrels do this. not good.

  5. Jeff said:

    I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    that I would like to replace with a carbon one.

    Why???

    Do you _really_ think it will make you faster??

    - Frank Krygowski

  6. Quoted message said:
    Jeff said:

    I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    that I would like to replace with a carbon one.

    Why???

    That is a relevant question.

    Quoted message said:


    Do you _really_ think it will make you faster??

    That is a irrelevant question. Why do people have to get faster when
    they buy something new?

    Lou
    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu (http://www.nb.nu)

  7. Jeff said:

    1) what do I need to consider in regard to carbon forks for larger
    riders? brands to looks for and avoid? ...

    I am extremely pleased with my Wound-Up forks. Strongest fork of any
    material. Mine are 1", with steel steerers, which I recommend. I weigh
    less than you, but still, at 200 lbs, I don't want to mess with
    something that could not handle the weight. Not terribly cheap at $350,
    or so, but not outrageous.

    most current forks seem to

    Quoted message said:

    claim that they have no weight limits, but I've read some comments that
    some aren't quite stiff enough for 200+ pound riders.

    I like s stiff fork, and most carbon forks are IMO not nearly stiff
    enough, especially laterally. These are.

    Quoted message said:


    2) any special considerations for used carbon forks? ...other than to
    make sure that the steerer tube is long enough?

    Some will claim you should never get one. One of mine is, and is
    indistinguishable from the other one, except that I saved $300.
    However, that is a dicey proposition in general. If you get one used,
    be willing to throw it away if you find anything questionable.

    Quoted message said:


    3) any special tricks or advice when installing the fork and/or new
    headset?

    It's straightforward. Keep a little extra length of steerer above where
    you place the stem, so you can adjust it upwards if need be.

    You will find it next to impossible to find a 1" stem. But lots of
    1.125" stems come with a shim, or you can get them cheaply. I got shims
    that were wider than the stem clamp, making even easier bar height
    adjustments possible.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    Become MicroSoft-free forever. Ask me how.

  8. Jeff said:

    I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    that I would like to replace with a carbon one. The frame requires a 1"
    steerer. I'm currently about 220 pounds and ride hard and long, but don't do
    any real racing - but I do train with some fairly serious racers who really
    push me.

    ...anyway, I've never ridden or installed one of the threadless headsets or
    forks, but have installed one or two of the older threaded versions, have
    the proper headset press, and have read the instructions for the threadless
    variety.

    I don't want to spend a fortune upgrading a decent, but not terribly
    expensive frame so I'm looking for a few used parts on ebay.

    I'll be getting a new Chris King headset, and I've already bought a good
    carbon handlebar. ...still need to find a good stem of the right length.

    Three questions:

    1) what do I need to consider in regard to carbon forks for larger riders?
    brands to looks for and avoid? ...most current forks seem to claim that they
    have no weight limits, but I've read some comments that some aren't quite
    stiff enough for 200+ pound riders.

    2) any special considerations for used carbon forks? ...other than to make
    sure that the steerer tube is long enough?

    3) any special tricks or advice when installing the fork and/or new headset?

    Thanks in advance

    Jeff

    --
    Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

    The lightest forks will weigh at under 400 grams with a carbon
    steerer. the heaviest ones will be at around 550 grams with an
    aluminum or steel steerer. The difference in price for the 150 grams
    that you save will be about $200.00. You can get either a performance
    or nashbar 1 inch carbon fork for about $80. They are great. I have a
    ti bike with a one inch steerer and a nashbar carbon fork. I also have
    a steel bike with a one inch steerer and a performance carbon fork.
    Both of them work just fine.

    You can't go wrong with either one of them.

    Andres

  9. So the next question is whether all forks will place the front of the bike
    at the correct height for all frames (assuming they are made for 700c
    tires). In other words, can some forks place the front of the bike lower or
    higher than other forks?

    Jeff

    --
    Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

  10. Lou Holtman said:
    Quoted message said:
    Jeff said:

    I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    that I would like to replace with a carbon one.

    Quoted message said:

    Why???

    That is a relevant question.

    Quoted message said:

    Do you _really_ think it will make you faster??

    That is a irrelevant question. Why do people have to get faster when
    they buy something new?

    Well, perhaps I misread his intent, but when he explained his riding,
    he said "[I] ride hard and long, but don't do any real racing - but I
    do train with some fairly serious racers who really push me."

    It sure sounds like he wants the fork for speed. If so, it's not
    going to work. If not - why does he want it?

    - Frank Krygowski

  11. Jeff said:

    I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    that I would like to replace with a carbon one. The frame requires a 1"
    steerer. I'm currently about 220 pounds and ride hard and long, but don't do
    any real racing - but I do train with some fairly serious racers who really
    push me.

    ...anyway, I've never ridden or installed one of the threadless headsets or
    forks, but have installed one or two of the older threaded versions, have
    the proper headset press, and have read the instructions for the threadless
    variety.

    I don't want to spend a fortune upgrading a decent, but not terribly
    expensive frame so I'm looking for a few used parts on ebay.

    I'll be getting a new Chris King headset, and I've already bought a good
    carbon handlebar. ...still need to find a good stem of the right length.

    Three questions:

    1) what do I need to consider in regard to carbon forks for larger riders?
    brands to looks for and avoid? ...most current forks seem to claim that they
    have no weight limits, but I've read some comments that some aren't quite
    stiff enough for 200+ pound riders.

    2) any special considerations for used carbon forks? ...other than to make
    sure that the steerer tube is long enough?

    3) any special tricks or advice when installing the fork and/or new headset?

    I weigh 235 and use a Ritchey Comp Carbon. I left the aluminum steerer
    uncut to keep the bars kind of high - about 1" below the seat. This
    required 65mm of spacers, whichh is a no-no with a carbon steerer
    (most say max there is 20mm). I'm seeing one on ebay for $140 BIN.
    http://preview.tinyurl.com/3yplyb

    Be sure to spring the $17 or whatever for a star nut installer. I've
    mounted them without the tool before, and it was such a pain getting
    it to go in straight. Piece of cake with the tool. I was also able to
    use the sleeve of the star nut tool as a slide hammer to mount the
    crown race. Well-spent, that $17.

    Like most have said, DO NOT BUY USED. It's just not worth it.

  12. [quote="Quoted message"]

    Lou Holtman said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Sep 14, 11:38 pm, "Jeff" <[email hidden]> wrote:
    > I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    > small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    > that I would like to replace with a carbon one.



    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Why???



    Quoted message said:

    That is a relevant question.



    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Do you _really_ think it will make you faster??



    Quoted message said:

    That is a irrelevant question. Why do people have to get faster when
    they buy something new?



    Well, perhaps I misread his intent, but when he explained his riding,
    he said "[I] ride hard and long, but don't do any real racing - but I
    do train with some fairly serious racers who really push me."

    It sure sounds like he wants the fork for speed. If so, it's not
    going to work. If not - why does he want it?

    - Frank Krygowski[/quote]

    Might work for climbing speed. A pound off the front end makes a
    difference on an 8% grade. At least it did for me.

  13. On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 20:21:25 -0700, Hank Wirtz <[email hidden]>
    [quote="Quoted message"][quote="Quoted message"]

    Lou Holtman said:

    [email hidden] wrote:
    > On Sep 14, 11:38 pm, "Jeff" <[email hidden]> wrote:
    >> I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    >> small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    >> that I would like to replace with a carbon one.



    Quoted message said:

    > Why???



    Quoted message said:

    That is a relevant question.



    Quoted message said:

    > Do you _really_ think it will make you faster??



    Quoted message said:

    That is a irrelevant question. Why do people have to get faster when
    they buy something new?



    Well, perhaps I misread his intent, but when he explained his riding,
    he said "[I] ride hard and long, but don't do any real racing - but I
    do train with some fairly serious racers who really push me."

    It sure sounds like he wants the fork for speed. If so, it's not
    going to work. If not - why does he want it?

    - Frank Krygowski[/quote]

    Might work for climbing speed. A pound off the front end makes a
    difference on an 8% grade. At least it did for me.[/quote]

    Dear Hank,

    This calculator is set up for convenient comparisons:

    http://austinimage.com/bp/velocity/velocity.html

    For a 150 pound rider putting out a steady 300 watts on the hoods and
    a 22 pound bike heading up a 20-mile long 8% grade, the predicted time
    drops from 129.901 minutes to 129.264 minutes, or 0.637 minutes, about
    38.22 seconds in over two hours.

    That's just under a 0.5% speed increase, from 9.238 to 9.283 mph.

    The effect is just a little less than a 0.45 mph tailwind blowing you
    up the same 8% grade.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  14. [quote="Quoted message"]On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 20:21:25 -0700, Hank Wirtz <[email hidden]>
    [quote="Quoted message"][quote="Quoted message"]On Sep 15, 12:08 pm, Lou Holtman <[email hidden]> wrote:

    > [email hidden] wrote:
    >> On Sep 14, 11:38 pm, "Jeff" <[email hidden]> wrote:
    >>> I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    >>> small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    >>> that I would like to replace with a carbon one.
    >> Why???
    > That is a relevant question.
    >> Do you _really_ think it will make you faster??
    > That is a irrelevant question. Why do people have to get faster when
    > they buy something new?
    Well, perhaps I misread his intent, but when he explained his riding,
    he said "[I] ride hard and long, but don't do any real racing - but I
    do train with some fairly serious racers who really push me."

    It sure sounds like he wants the fork for speed. If so, it's not
    going to work. If not - why does he want it?

    - Frank Krygowski[/quote]
    Might work for climbing speed. A pound off the front end makes a
    difference on an 8% grade. At least it did for me.[/quote]

    Dear Hank,

    This calculator is set up for convenient comparisons:

    http://austinimage.com/bp/velocity/velocity.html

    For a 150 pound rider putting out a steady 300 watts on the hoods and
    a 22 pound bike heading up a 20-mile long 8% grade, the predicted time
    drops from 129.901 minutes to 129.264 minutes, or 0.637 minutes, about
    38.22 seconds in over two hours.

    That's just under a 0.5% speed increase, from 9.238 to 9.283 mph.

    The effect is just a little less than a 0.45 mph tailwind blowing you
    up the same 8% grade.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel[/quote]


    So the answer to the question 'does it make you faster?' is YES it does
    when cimbing! That is what I say every time this question is asked to me.

    Lou
    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu (http://www.nb.nu)

  15. [quote="Quoted message"]On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 20:21:25 -0700, Hank Wirtz <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Sep 15, 12:08 pm, Lou Holtman <[email hidden]> wrote:



    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > [email hidden] wrote:
    > > On Sep 14, 11:38 pm, "Jeff" <[email hidden]> wrote:
    > >> I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    > >> small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    > >> that I would like to replace with a carbon one.



    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > Why???



    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > That is a relevant question.



    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > Do you _really_ think it will make you faster??



    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > That is a irrelevant question. Why do people have to get faster when
    > they buy something new?



    [quote="Quoted message"][quote="Quoted message"]Well, perhaps I misread his intent, but when he explained his riding,
    he said "[I] ride hard and long, but don't do any real racing - but I
    do train with some fairly serious racers who really push me."[/quote][/quote]

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    It sure sounds like he wants the fork for speed. If so, it's not
    going to work. If not - why does he want it?



    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    - Frank Krygowski



    Quoted message said:

    Might work for climbing speed. A pound off the front end makes a
    difference on an 8% grade. At least it did for me.



    Dear Hank,

    This calculator is set up for convenient comparisons:

    http://austinimage.com/bp/velocity/velocity.html

    For a 150 pound rider putting out a steady 300 watts on the hoods and
    a 22 pound bike heading up a 20-mile long 8% grade, the predicted time
    drops from 129.901 minutes to 129.264 minutes, or 0.637 minutes, about
    38.22 seconds in over two hours.

    That's just under a 0.5% speed increase, from 9.238 to 9.283 mph.

    The effect is just a little less than a 0.45 mph tailwind blowing you
    up the same 8% grade.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel[/quote]

    I'm not talking about a 20-mile grade. I'm talking about a half-mile
    one. A pound off the front affects the bike's handling, making it FEEL
    lighter. And psychologically, that can inspire you to push it harder,
    and do that hill in a bigger gear out of the saddle at 12 mph instead
    of gearing down and slogging it seated at 8mph. And there's a minute
    saved in the span of about three.

  16. On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 22:00:15 -0700, Hank Wirtz <[email hidden]>
    [quote="Quoted message"][quote="Quoted message"]On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 20:21:25 -0700, Hank Wirtz <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    On Sep 15, 7:17 pm, [email hidden] wrote:
    > On Sep 15, 12:08 pm, Lou Holtman <[email hidden]> wrote:



    Quoted message said:

    > > [email hidden] wrote:
    > > > On Sep 14, 11:38 pm, "Jeff" <[email hidden]> wrote:
    > > >> I have a 12 year old titanium road frame that was custom sized for me by a
    > > >> small frame builder and still in decent shape. It has an older steel fork
    > > >> that I would like to replace with a carbon one.



    Quoted message said:

    > > > Why???



    Quoted message said:

    > > That is a relevant question.



    Quoted message said:

    > > > Do you _really_ think it will make you faster??



    Quoted message said:

    > > That is a irrelevant question. Why do people have to get faster when
    > > they buy something new?



    [quote="Quoted message"]> Well, perhaps I misread his intent, but when he explained his riding,
    > he said "[I] ride hard and long, but don't do any real racing - but I
    > do train with some fairly serious racers who really push me."[/quote]

    Quoted message said:

    > It sure sounds like he wants the fork for speed. If so, it's not
    > going to work. If not - why does he want it?



    Quoted message said:

    > - Frank Krygowski



    Quoted message said:

    Might work for climbing speed. A pound off the front end makes a
    difference on an 8% grade. At least it did for me.



    Dear Hank,

    This calculator is set up for convenient comparisons:

    http://austinimage.com/bp/velocity/velocity.html

    For a 150 pound rider putting out a steady 300 watts on the hoods and
    a 22 pound bike heading up a 20-mile long 8% grade, the predicted time
    drops from 129.901 minutes to 129.264 minutes, or 0.637 minutes, about
    38.22 seconds in over two hours.

    That's just under a 0.5% speed increase, from 9.238 to 9.283 mph.

    The effect is just a little less than a 0.45 mph tailwind blowing you
    up the same 8% grade.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel[/quote]

    I'm not talking about a 20-mile grade. I'm talking about a half-mile
    one. A pound off the front affects the bike's handling, making it FEEL
    lighter. And psychologically, that can inspire you to push it harder,
    and do that hill in a bigger gear out of the saddle at 12 mph instead
    of gearing down and slogging it seated at 8mph. And there's a minute
    saved in the span of about three.[/quote]

    Dear Hank,

    Let's look at the prediction for a half mile 8% grade for a 235 pound
    rider (judging by your other post) putting out enough watts to do 12
    mph, given a 22 pound bicycle equipped with a 1 pound lighter fork.

    Same calculator:

    http://austinimage.com/bp/velocity/velocity.html

    If you managed to do 12 mph up an 8% half-mile grade while still
    seated (standing will increase wind drag considerably, but let's be
    generous), you'd be putting out 587 watts for 2.49862 minutes.

    If you subtract a pound of weight hidden in the front steering tube,
    the predicted time will be 2.49057 minutes.

    2.49862
    -2.49057
    -------
    0.00805 minutes * 60 seconds / minute = 0.483 seconds out of 150
    seconds

    Not even half a second faster.

    You're claiming that a psychological effect causes you to go from from
    8 mph and 377 watts to 12 mph and 587 watts because of an overall
    weight change of 1 / 255 pounds, or a 0.4% change in weight leading to
    a 58% increase in power output.

    As for the lighter handling, it's unlikely that you could tell the
    difference while riding, given that the hidden weight is so trivial
    and bicycle handling is so inconsequential at 12 mph up 8% grades.

    We all have our illusions, so no offense is intended, but this is a
    classic example of a 235 pound rider convincing himself that removing
    1 pound from his ~20 pound bicycle is going to turn him into Lance
    Armstrong zooming up the Alp d'Huez.

    That climb averages about 7.7% and is the second Alp d'Huez on this
    list of detailed profiles of European climbs:


    http://ciclismo.sitiasp.it/motore2.aspx?sid=77dc7b9a7f5946e9896f84344137da9a&lista=true&quanti=20&url=fr&ID=0&pagina=1&filtra=null&da=az&come=af&lingua=eng&commenti=False

    Kraig Willet estimated that Armstrong put out around 450 watts for 16
    km, with a little bit of flat approach, at 6.38 watts/kg:

    http://www.biketechreview.com/performance/la_cant_doit.htm

    Whatever the hill and your speed are, if you're going faster up the
    hill, give yourself the credit, not wishful thinking about removing 16
    ounces from the 4,000 or so that you pedal up the hill.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  17. Quoted message said:

    You're claiming that a psychological effect causes you to go from from
    8 mph and 377 watts to 12 mph and 587 watts because of an overall
    weight change of 1 / 255 pounds, or a 0.4% change in weight leading to
    a 58% increase in power output.

    I'm sure the 12 and 8 were more or less just arbitrarily chosen for
    the sake of the discussion. While I don't dispute the hard figures, I
    belive the placebo effect and mental attitudes while riding should
    never be underestimated.

    Speaking as a gravitationally challenged rider, I know first hand it
    is very easy to have a defeatist attitude when trying to hang with
    fast riders up steep hills. Having lighter equipment helps keep me
    focused on not having any excuses, and perhaps allows me to push
    myself those few extra watts or seconds that I would not have been
    able to do had I been thinking to myself "oh well, I'm so heavy and my
    bike is so heavy that I was going to get dropped anyway..."

    For hilly races I use my famous 1200g wheels which are 1100g less than
    my regular wheels and I swap out my seat (comfy Rolls) and seatpost
    for a lightweight combo to save 400g. Is this 1500g really going to
    make or break my race? Probably not, but it allows me to keep a more
    positive attitude which may just make or break my race.

    That said, I don't think the fork in question will make any
    difference. ;-)

    Joseph

  18. email hidden said:
    Quoted message said:

    You're claiming that a psychological effect causes you to go from from
    8 mph and 377 watts to 12 mph and 587 watts because of an overall
    weight change of 1 / 255 pounds, or a 0.4% change in weight leading to
    a 58% increase in power output.

    I'm sure the 12 and 8 were more or less just arbitrarily chosen for
    the sake of the discussion. While I don't dispute the hard figures, I
    belive the placebo effect and mental attitudes while riding should
    never be underestimated.

    Speaking as a gravitationally challenged rider, I know first hand it
    is very easy to have a defeatist attitude when trying to hang with
    fast riders up steep hills. Having lighter equipment helps keep me
    focused on not having any excuses, and perhaps allows me to push
    myself those few extra watts or seconds that I would not have been
    able to do had I been thinking to myself "oh well, I'm so heavy and my
    bike is so heavy that I was going to get dropped anyway..."

    For hilly races I use my famous 1200g wheels which are 1100g less than
    my regular wheels and I swap out my seat (comfy Rolls) and seatpost
    for a lightweight combo to save 400g. Is this 1500g really going to
    make or break my race? Probably not, but it allows me to keep a more
    positive attitude which may just make or break my race.

    That said, I don't think the fork in question will make any
    difference. ;-)

    Joseph

    Dear Joseph,

    Painting the fork red ought to accomplish similar results.

    🙂

    More seriously, the thread really does illustrate our classic weight
    obsession, where the loss of a single pound leads to wild hopes of a
    Clydesdale increasing his speed quite noticeably up a steep climb,
    followed by even wilder examples of psychology and "lighter handling"
    somehow increasing speed 50% up the same climb while approaching
    Armstrong's watts per kilogram.

    The weight removed from the fork will produce less than half a second
    improvement in 150 seconds in the situation described, not the vague
    but impressive results claimed. It's likely that the _obsession_ with
    the weight of the fork produces similarly inflated claims. The placebo
    effect of new equipment tends to wear off quickly when toiling up 8%
    grades that believe in gravity.

    Of course, a few dozen light-weight aluminum spoke nipples, anodized
    to the right color, might revive--

    Er, never mind.

    For the fun of it, let's send a 235 pound rider up the calculator's 8%
    half-mile grade with a steady 377 watts and 8 mph and see how much
    weight we have to remove from his bike to raise his speed to 12 mph.

    http://austinimage.com/bp/velocity/velocity.html

    Hmmm . . . we need to reduce the 22 pound bike to -77 pounds. You
    might think that this is possible only with a calculator, but here's
    how to obtain negative bicycle equipment weight:

    http://www.earlyaviator.com/archive/DS/DS438.1907.SkyCycle.Dixon.jpg

    🙂

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  19. Quoted message said:

    On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 00:58:36 -0700, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    You're claiming that a psychological effect causes you to go from from
    8 mph and 377 watts to 12 mph and 587 watts because of an overall
    weight change of 1 / 255 pounds, or a 0.4% change in weight leading to
    a 58% increase in power output.

    Quoted message said:

    I'm sure the 12 and 8 were more or less just arbitrarily chosen for
    the sake of the discussion. While I don't dispute the hard figures, I
    belive the placebo effect and mental attitudes while riding should
    never be underestimated.

    Quoted message said:

    Speaking as a gravitationally challenged rider, I know first hand it
    is very easy to have a defeatist attitude when trying to hang with
    fast riders up steep hills. Having lighter equipment helps keep me
    focused on not having any excuses, and perhaps allows me to push
    myself those few extra watts or seconds that I would not have been
    able to do had I been thinking to myself "oh well, I'm so heavy and my
    bike is so heavy that I was going to get dropped anyway..."

    Quoted message said:

    For hilly races I use my famous 1200g wheels which are 1100g less than
    my regular wheels and I swap out my seat (comfy Rolls) and seatpost
    for a lightweight combo to save 400g. Is this 1500g really going to
    make or break my race? Probably not, but it allows me to keep a more
    positive attitude which may just make or break my race.

    Quoted message said:

    That said, I don't think the fork in question will make any
    difference. ;-)

    Quoted message said:

    Joseph

    Dear Joseph,

    Painting the fork red ought to accomplish similar results.

    🙂

    More seriously, the thread really does illustrate our classic weight
    obsession, where the loss of a single pound leads to wild hopes of a
    Clydesdale increasing his speed quite noticeably up a steep climb,
    followed by even wilder examples of psychology and "lighter handling"
    somehow increasing speed 50% up the same climb while approaching
    Armstrong's watts per kilogram.

    The weight removed from the fork will produce less than half a second
    improvement in 150 seconds in the situation described, not the vague
    but impressive results claimed. It's likely that the _obsession_ with
    the weight of the fork produces similarly inflated claims. The placebo
    effect of new equipment tends to wear off quickly when toiling up 8%
    grades that believe in gravity.

    Of course, a few dozen light-weight aluminum spoke nipples, anodized
    to the right color, might revive--

    Er, never mind.

    For the fun of it, let's send a 235 pound rider up the calculator's 8%
    half-mile grade with a steady 377 watts and 8 mph and see how much
    weight we have to remove from his bike to raise his speed to 12 mph.

    http://austinimage.com/bp/velocity/velocity.html

    Hmmm . . . we need to reduce the 22 pound bike to -77 pounds. You
    might think that this is possible only with a calculator, but here's
    how to obtain negative bicycle equipment weight:

    http://www.earlyaviator.com/archive/DS/DS438.1907.SkyCycle.Dixon.jpg

    🙂

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    OK, since you're obsessed with numbers, I went back and measured the
    grade I was thinking of. Only 4.5%, over a third of a mile. Sure, an
    overinflated claim, but it was a guess off the top of my head. Harumph
    all you want.

    If my light bike gets me to put out 360 watts instead of 250 (numbers
    derived from your calculator), then I'll ride the light bike. Yes,
    it's 100% in my head, but it doesn't change the fact that I got up the
    hill much faster than on a bike that feels sluggish.

    (I'll tell you where to stick your calculator....)

  20. I think the calculator is flawed, not in its math but in leaving out
    one important aspect of which I think produces results that cannot
    match the numbers of an actual climb. That is if "x" is the fitness of
    the cyclist and "y" is the weight of the bike and "y2" being the
    weight of the bike that weighs a pound less, then the question is
    "what is the caloric difference?" If, the cyclist was a machine then
    by all means use this calculator but in real life riding, weight
    economy does make a big difference in terms of energy conservation and
    maximization.

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