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QBP wheels

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Cycling Equipment
Published
16 January 2008
Last activity
20 January 2008
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Zruk
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  1. Quoted message said:
    Michael Johnson said:
    Quoted message said:

    >> That's one spoke-squeezing (and why-we-have-crosses) theory I've
    >> not heard of before. Why does a slight bend at the cross prevent
    >> breaking due to fatigue?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > According to Barnett, when the spokes don't have a slight bend,
    > they are subjected to cycles of being bent against each other and
    > released as they go through load/unload cycles. This constant
    > flexing eventually results in material fatigue. This is the
    > contention in the manual, at any rate.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I think you'll find that spokes removed from a wheel show no kink
    where they cross an interleaved opposing spoke, before or after
    stress relieving. The two advantages of interleaving, something
    most wheel builders do, is that spokes do not go entirely slack
    when riding over rough road and a broken spoke doesn't not dangle
    freely and foul the wheel regardless of which end fails.

    Quoted message said:

    I didn't say that the spokes developed a kink where they cross. What
    I said was that they are constantly flexed, i.e. bowed then unbowed,
    as they are loaded and unloaded. This bowing takes place along the
    entire length of the spoke and results in fatigue at the elbow,
    where the spoke typically breaks. Again, according to Barnett.

    If the spoke does not change shape, how does this method alter how the
    spoke flexes in use, assuming it does so?

    ever heard of elasticity?

    Quoted message said:

    In contrast, I think you'll
    find that the spokes run in an unchanging straight line to the ends
    and that the slight deflection at interleaved spoke crossing moves so
    slightly that it causes no perceptible sound as these points fret
    against each other. In time this causes a notch in each spoke, one
    that is noticeable when they are displaced past one another manually
    and click back into the notch when released.

    sound??? deliberate attempt to obfuscate. and this paragraph
    contradicts your contention about "not changing shape".

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    If you introduce a bend in the spoke, which Sheldon's method (and the
    method in Barnett, which differs only in the implement used) actually
    does, then the spoke is already in a bowed shape and doesn't flex as
    much as it is loaded and unloaded, thereby reducing mechanical fatigue.

    I think you'll find that there is no permanent bend introduced by
    these methods, the spokes being essentially as straight as they were
    fresh out of the box. What changes is the elbow bend for outbound
    spokes, mainly on the left side. Improving the spoke line is best
    done directly and manually before the wheel has full tension, and it
    doesn't have anything to do with spoke crossings.

    there's no evidence that you /can/ "improve" the spoke line while at
    full tension since you cannot overshoot. elasticity and yield require
    that you overshoot.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Your point about interleaving, while true enough, is a red herring.

    Wat in particular do you mean in that respect?

    oh, the irony of fisherman jobst!

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > I cannot personally vouch for the truth of the assertion, I
    > haven't seen the experimental data. It sounds plausible, however.
    > Certainly more so than the idea that momentarily /increasing/ the
    > tension on a spoke is going to relieve spoke wind-up.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Its the adjacent spoke that becomes unloaded from this maneuver
    that untwists, the same as when a wheel is pressed against the
    floor on its axle. It is the slackening spoke that untwists.

    Quoted message said:

    So you're claiming that the rim flexes enough radially when you
    squeeze some spokes to cause other spokes to go slack and unwind? I
    would expect this effect to be minimal at best, especially compared
    to pressing on the rim.

    When grasping pairs of spokes firmly, the rim moves radially inward
    and partially relaxes adjacent spoke tension. As the spokes are
    pulled together, they do not change length

    oh yes they do. it's called elasticity.

    Quoted message said:

    so something must move (by
    the cosine of the angle).

    yeah. see above.

    Quoted message said:

    The only length change spokes is in
    microns, locally at high concentrations.

    1. that contradicts the above.
    2. yield, what you're alluding to, is a presumption.
    3. even if yield occurs, it's in regions of high residual stress close
    to the neutral plane, not the regions from which fatigue is observed to
    initiate, the regions farthest from neutral.

    Quoted message said:

    These changes are immaterial
    to wheel alignment while radial rim flexing remains in the elastic
    zone unless the wheel is too tight.

    but their foggy and imprecise presumption is essential to your ability
    to "cure" and thus sell wheel books.

    if that income stream is drying up, maybe you should sell a book on your
    contributions to automotive design? but be careful with your facts on
    that one jobst - there's a broader and better educated audience. might
    cause problems in the presumption and concoction departments.

  2. In article
    <[email hidden]>,

    Zruk said:

    Wow; who turned up the heat?
    Reminds me of the old saw: why are academic politics so viscious?
    Because the stakes are so small.
    Can't we all just get along?
    I like the idea of stress releiving the wheel my self but I am a
    little gun shy about truing since I have neither a tensionometer or
    much experience and am afraid of botching up the wheel. I amafter all
    seeking round and strong.

    You can build round, strong, enduring wheels.
    Patience and confidence will see you through.
    Regardless of whatever wrangles you see here,
    The_Bicycle_Wheel is a store house and a
    checklist for wheel building. Have it on hand
    and you will not forget incontrovertible
    minutiae such as oiling spoke threads, and
    nipple seats; or how to lace a wheel.

    --
    Michael Press

  3. In article
    <[email hidden]>,

    landotter said:
    Jay Beattie said:
    landotter said:

    On Jan 17, 3:49 pm, Zruk <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:

    > Wow; who turned up the heat?
    > Reminds me of the old saw: why are academic politics so viscious?
    > Because the stakes are so small.
    > Can't we all just get along?

    Quoted message said:

    Helmets, wheel building, and saddles are the guns, gods, and gays of
    the r.b.t set. Yarr! Why do you think I put on my Ralph Reed Underoos?

    Quoted message said:

    >I like the idea of stress releiving the wheel my self but I am a
    >little gun shy about truing since I have neither a tensionometer or
    >much experience and am afraid of botching up the wheel. I amafter all
    >seeking round and strong."

    Quoted message said:

    I'm completely unqualified to say this, but it seems virtually all
    factory built wheels can take a half turn more tension. That's a broad
    statement, to be sure so take with a grain of salt. If you're a
    lighter rider you can probably just ride the wheels as is. If you do
    try and learn the art of wheel tuning--do start small. I like to work
    with 1/4 turns as units when dialing in or truing a wheel.

    Keep in mind that "factory built wheels" includes a lot of botique,
    low spoke count stuff.

    Oh sure, my general advice is for traditional factory wheels. I don't
    think I'd have the moxie to touch them fancy six spoke jobbers with
    spoke tension requiring the use of a torque wrench. The veteran down
    at the LBS probably wouldn't be skeered. I asked him if he used a
    tensionometer, and in true Nashville fashion he said, "Naw, I'm a
    geetar player, don't need one." To his credit, he used to build wheels
    for a race team with a near immaculate record.

    Quoted message said:

    Life lesson: final tension
    before beer number four (actually, it was not beer back then, but you
    know what I mean). -- Jay Beattie.

    I can do tension after beer four, it's just that I often have to
    relace a couple times after doing the equivalent of buttoning a shirt
    one hole off. ;-)

    The drug of choice for really meticulous wheels is likely speed--my
    neighbor used to get whacked and do calculus for fun, but I hear it's
    a bit habit forming.

    Probably mainlining the hard stuff now:
    commutative rings and category theory.

    --
    Michael Press

  4. Michael Press said:

    In article
    <[email hidden]>,

    Zruk said:

    Wow; who turned up the heat?
    Reminds me of the old saw: why are academic politics so viscious?
    Because the stakes are so small.
    Can't we all just get along?
    I like the idea of stress releiving the wheel my self but I am a
    little gun shy about truing since I have neither a tensionometer or
    much experience and am afraid of botching up the wheel. I amafter all
    seeking round and strong.

    You can build round, strong, enduring wheels.
    Patience and confidence will see you through.
    Regardless of whatever wrangles you see here,
    The_Bicycle_Wheel is a store house and a
    checklist for wheel building. Have it on hand
    and you will not forget incontrovertible
    minutiae such as oiling spoke threads, and
    nipple seats; or how to lace a wheel.

    Good lacing section, and all of the other tips were great when I
    bought the book back in '81 -- and it is still the bible on
    conventional 32/36 spoke wheels on 400+g rims. I haven't seen the
    latest edition, but I think that people building low spoke count
    wheels on light rims will, ultimately, have to use some type of
    threadlock to avoid rim-cracking tensions.-- Jay Beattie.

  5. Michael Press said:

    In article
    <[email hidden]>,

    Zruk said:

    Wow; who turned up the heat?
    Reminds me of the old saw: why are academic politics so viscious?
    Because the stakes are so small.
    Can't we all just get along?
    I like the idea of stress releiving the wheel my self but I am a
    little gun shy about truing since I have neither a tensionometer or
    much experience and am afraid of botching up the wheel. I amafter all
    seeking round and strong.

    You can build round, strong, enduring wheels.
    Patience and confidence will see you through.
    Regardless of whatever wrangles you see here,
    The_Bicycle_Wheel is a store house and a
    checklist for wheel building.

    eh? so you don't care about spoke tension "as high as the rim can bear"
    wrecking your rim? [forgetting the more fundamental engineering errors
    of course.]

    Quoted message said:

    Have it on hand
    and you will not forget incontrovertible
    minutiae such as oiling spoke threads, and
    nipple seats; or how to lace a wheel.

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