tk49 said:Here's my q'n.
I have a bike project (not a racing bicycle, but a hybride one) that i'm working on.
Now i need wheels (it's going to be handbuilt one's).
I have on my racingbike DT 240's hubs (and the the hub tools to work on them).
Now i think that a shimano 105 hub would do nicely for intended use, but somehow i feel that DT 340 hubs would be far better technically speaking.
My gut feeling say's that the internal construction of the DT 340 is much better than the 105 hubs, but i can't tell for sure.
Or in other words how and when will the lesser hub (105 ?) qualitiy will be sticking it's neck out.
Is it lifespan, wear and tear etc.
I hope this makes a bit sense.
FWIW. Since I apparently have an insatiable need-to-know, I actually have a DT 340 rear (disc) hub, and without taking it apart, I will tell you the MOST obvious difference is the freehub BODY ...
I presume the freehub is steel (I don't have it handy, and I didn't bother putting a magnet on it when I first got it) because it looks like the steel freehub bodies you would find on a Shimano hub ... BUT, of course, the actual mechanism is probably the SAME star-ratchet that you will find in your 240 hubs (the hub shell is the "same" as a 240 hub shell ... and, more importantly, when you turn the freehub by hand, it SOUNDS-and-FEELS the same as the 240's ratchet mechanism) -- not much that can be changed in the execution/production of the star-ratchet, AFAIK, unless you want to compare it with the noiser, earlier generation star-ratchet mechanism or in the ONYX hubs (which I'm not familiar with, first hand).
So, by my reckoning, the (presumably) steel freehub on the 340 is where the weight difference is from when compared to the weight of a 240 hub ... the 340 rear disc hub is really porky (Is there a non-disc version? If there are, I would consider them for future ROAD wheel builds), but probably not as heavy as the Shimano disc hubs.
I dont' know if there is any difference between the bearings on the 340 & "regular" 240 hubs.
For people who don't have the tools, the Shimano hub would be more easily serviced because it uses loose bearings, and the cartridge bearings for the DT hub will need to be ordered OR you can send the wheel back to DT (about $100 ... some shops say they can replace the bearings [for less ... about half that amount], but I don't know what quality cartridges they use).