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Crank Arms for Schlumpf (Square Taper)

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01 / Original postCrank Arms for Schlumpf (Square Taper)mscalisi · 22 May 2008 02 / This pagePosts 1–12Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #12semach.the.monkey · 22 May 2008

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
22 May 2008
Last activity
22 May 2008
Original author
mscalisi
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12
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Topics
CranksetsElectronic shiftingTaper and peakingTorque wrenches

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  1. Original post
    mscalisi
    Archived post
    #1

    This morning I decided to ride to work on my Schlumpf 36er. About a mile
    away from home, after stopping at a light, I shifted into high-gear.
    After several rotations, I found myself being intimate with the
    pavement. It became immediately apparent why. My Schlumpf crank arm was
    sitting on the pavment, have snapped clean off. Luckily I wasn't going
    very fast when this happened.

    Likely, I own too many unicycles, and I was still able to ride to work
    on my Nimbus 36.

    So, I need new cranks. I'm thinking steel might be the way to go since
    they're more likely to bend without breaking, and I fear what would
    have happened had I been going 20+mph downhill when it broke.

    Does anybody have recommendations about strong cranks that work well
    with a Schlumpf? I'll probably get two sets, 152s 140s.

    --
    mscalisi

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  2. siafirede
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    #2

    I know that Joe Marshall and Spencer both had their 150mm Schlumpf
    cranks break as well. I am not sure what brand they are using now...it
    might be the ProWheel ones though.

    --
    siafirede

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  3. semach.the.monkey
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    #3

    quick reply as I'm on train at moment, but see;
    http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67617

    STM

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  4. mscalisi
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    #4

    Thanks! Any comments on the ProWheels now that you've been using them a
    while?

    semach.the.monkey said:

    quick reply as I'm on train at moment, but see;
    http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67617

    STM

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    mscalisi

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  5. tholub
    Archived post
    #5

    Ouch, hope you're OK. Good excuse to try out those 140s we've been
    talking about. (And, mental note: extra square taper cranks in the
    spare parts bin for RTL).

    I think the ProWheel cranks are what Jimbo is using; they've got a sort
    of annoying Q-factor.

    I have a set of cheap 150mm steel cranks (straight) you can
    borrow/have. I can't imagine ever wanting to put 150mm square taper
    cranks on anything I'm likely to own. I'll be home after 8 tonight.

    --
    tholub
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  6. siafirede
    Archived post
    #6
    tholub said:

    Ouch, hope you're OK. Good excuse to try out those 140s we've been
    talking about. (And, mental note: extra square taper cranks in the
    spare parts bin for RTL).

    I think the ProWheel cranks are what Jimbo is using; they've got a sort
    of annoying Q-factor.

    I have a set of cheap 150mm steel cranks (straight) you can
    borrow/have. I can't imagine ever wanting to put 150mm square taper
    cranks on anything I'm likely to own. I'll be home after 8 tonight.

    I also wonder if using cranks with no q-factor is ideal for a schlumpf.
    I would think you would want a little q-factor so you are not too
    close to the shifting button. I think the KH moments have about 10mm q
    and that seems to work great. I haven't tried straight cranks on a
    schlumpf before though, so I am just speculating.

    --
    siafirede

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  7. tholub
    Archived post
    #7
    siafirede said:

    I also wonder if using cranks with no q-factor is ideal for a schlumpf.
    I would think you would want a little q-factor so you are not too close
    to the shifting button. I think the KH moments have about 10mm q and
    that seems to work great. I haven't tried straight cranks on a
    schlumpf before though, so I am just speculating.

    I'm using the Qu-Ax cranks, which I think are pretty much straight, and
    they're fine on the Schlumpf.

    --
    tholub
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  8. mscalisi
    Archived post
    #8

    I'm fine, just added a couple more scuffs to my collection.

    The Q might be OK. I mainly don't like the ProWheels for unicycles that
    have the extra-wide hub since it's already pretty wide on its own. I
    have ProWheels on v54.

    I just worry about them because they're aluminum. Unfortunately, UDC
    does have much in stock in the way of high quality steel cranks, and by
    that I mean they have nothing.

    My other option is the pricy Black Widows, which appear to have very
    little added Q, and they're not available in 140mm.

    tholub said:

    Ouch, hope you're OK. Good excuse to try out those 140s we've been
    talking about. (And, mental note: extra square taper cranks in the
    spare parts bin for RTL).

    I think the ProWheel cranks are what Jimbo is using; they've got a sort
    of annoying Q-factor.

    I have a set of cheap 150mm steel cranks (straight) you can
    borrow/have. I can't imagine ever wanting to put 150mm square taper
    cranks on anything I'm likely to own. I'll be home after 8 tonight.

    --
    mscalisi

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  9. siafirede
    Archived post
    #9
    tholub said:

    I'm using the Qu-Ax cranks, which I think are pretty much straight, and
    they're fine on the Schlumpf.

    I was debating switching to some light weight Qu-Ax ISIS cranks for use
    with the KH Schlumpf 29er. How do the light weight cranks compare to
    the Moments?

    --
    siafirede

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  10. tholub
    Archived post
    #10
    siafirede said:

    I was debating switching to some light weight Qu-Ax ISIS cranks for use
    with the KH Schlumpf 29er. How do the light weight cranks compare to
    the Moments?

    They're light; in your hand, the difference is pretty dramatic. On the
    unicycle, I don't think I notice the difference that much, but it
    probably makes spinning a little less wobbly. It took quite a bit of
    torque, and a 100km ride where one of the cranks kept coming loose all
    day, to get the Qu-Ax cranks tight enough to stay on, but since I
    bought the silly 6mm torque wrench bit and tightened them down, they've
    been fine.

    --
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  11. siafirede
    Archived post
    #11

    Thanks for the info...if they didn't make a significant difference I
    think I will stay with the dual drilled moments since I already have
    them torqued on there well and don't want to go through all that hassle
    again.

    --
    siafirede

    TEAM GOONIES - GUARANTEED TO FINISH THE #1 TEAM IN RTL
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  12. semach.the.monkey
    Archived post
    #12
    mscalisi said:

    Thanks! Any comments on the ProWheels now that you've been using them a
    while?

    Yeah. They're great. They have got a bit more Q than the original
    Schlumpf ones, but that really doesn't seem to be a problem. If
    anything, it is easier to shift now, although that could be because I
    went from 152mm to 127, and also changed my riding shoes at the same
    time.

    STM

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