Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

two odd wheel-building techniques

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Cycling Equipment
Published
21 August 2004
Last activity
26 August 2004
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  1. Carl said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >Here's the DT spoke punch:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >http://harriscyclery.net/site/page.cfm?PageID=49&SKU=TL1909



    I replied.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Thanckx for the plug, Carl. The check's in the mail...



    Jobst mentioned:

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    That's pretty expensive for one drift pin when you can get more for
    your money:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    http://tinyurl.com/4p45z

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    however, these don't say "Swiss made" on them.



    I pointed out:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    More to the point, they don't have a concave tip, so they're more
    liable to slip off the spoke head.



    Jobst:

    Quoted message said:


    How many times do you have to hit it to do the job? I guess a regular
    klutz couldn't make even one bash without wrecking the hub, but then
    the whole idea is akin to tying and soldering spoke crossings. A nice
    mollifying exercise.

    When I took the DT wheelbuilding seminar, the instructor made a fairly
    big deal of this, and I bought one to try it out. When you use it
    right, you generally only strike once on each spoke head. The cupped
    head makes it much easier to use especially on the heads-in spokes, and
    it prevents striking a glancing blow, so you have a pretty good idea of
    how much punch is actually delivered per whack.

    I have not found this to be a tool that I regularly use. I very rarely
    encounter a hub that feels as if it might benefit from it. It's in my
    toolbox in the rarely-used tools drawer.

    Quoted message said:

    I didn't mean to take sales away but I feel spades sometime need to be
    called spades to prevent perpetuating myths.

    Sure. This is not an item I stock, nor one that I particularly
    recommend, it's just one of a great many items special-orderable through
    my link to the Quality Bicycle Products online catalogue.

    I am enough of a toolaholic to have actually bought one of the $50 DT
    spoke wrenches, and I use that regularly...is it worht $50? Probably
    not, but I like it a lot, and I can afford it.

    Sheldon "Not Punch Drunk" Brown
    +-------------------------------------------------+
    | Search the Quality Bicycle Products Catalog |
    | and order on line: |
    | http://sheldonbrown.com/quality |
    +-------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  2. On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 13:49:42 +1000, daveornee
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Is your news reader dealing with quotations correctly? It seems as if
    there are sections that are quotes but not marked as such. I was
    getting quite confused trying to figure out what was your statement,
    etc. Oh well....

    Quoted message said:


    <SNIP>

    Spokes have only tension, there are no radial, lateral and torsional
    forces, and as I just pointed out, spokes don't move in the flange and
    never again see a tension even nearly as high as stress relieving.

    I am not arguing the size of the forces compared to stress relieving.
    I am also not just talking about the force(s) in the spoke; but the
    forces on the hub.

    Quoted message said:

    If you take a wheel that is just built following your "book" and


    then

    Quoted message said:

    disassemble it; you will see some of the "spoke alignment


    improvement"

    Quoted message said:

    shape on the spoke surrounding the elbow and some small amount of
    deforming of the areas in and around the spoke flange hole. If you
    take the same wheel after it has been ridden for 1,000s of miles you
    will see further deformation of both... and if you haven't corrected
    the spoke tension during that time/distance, you will find that the
    spokes have slackened.

    I don't believe you have ever seen a comparison between a newly built
    wheel and the same wheel used, in which such changes can or have been
    determined. I have take apart enough wheels to know that this is
    untrue... but it is what the purveyors of the method visualize and
    want you to believe. Just think of all the lectures we used to hear
    on the benefits of tying and soldering that were given by "known
    experts" and people who built durable wheels.

    I have taken apart a few wheels, built by a few different builders, and
    made the comparisons. What I saw was more deformation of the spoke
    holes and more deformation of the spokes. Yes, I looked before riding
    them and after riding them.
    What do you mean by “purveyors of the method visualize”?
    I am not thinking about lectures of anyone.

    Quoted message said:

    Not every spoke & hub have the same relative dimensions, so the
    amount of change can also vary be amounts that would make a
    significant difference in the resulting slackening. One of
    differing dimensions if DT Spokes in original, Revision 1, and
    Revision 2 having the difference of length amounting to 0.85 mm.

    So? What does this have to do with seating the heads? That might be
    an argument for washers for too long an elbow.

    Yes, I think that washers are a good idea, especially when the spoke
    head to elbow distance is greater than the thickness of the hub flange
    at the spoke hole. The longer the section of unsupported distance from
    flange to elbow, the longer the moment arm is to act on that segment of
    the spoke

    Quoted message said:

    I have seen such movement that I attribute to this from examining
    other builder's wheels.

    Certainly not your own.

    Thanks for that vote of confidence. I am still interested in learning
    and that is one reason I read your book and why I read this group’s
    information.
    How did you "see" such motion and how do you
    know that it occurred? Are you talking about wheels with loose
    spokes?
    As I stated before, I have taken apart wheels that were newly built to
    see what the hubs and spokes looked like. I put them back together as
    they were and road them. After ~10,000 miles I measured and found
    reduced spoke tension, and then took them apart again and noticed that
    the hub holes were more distorted and the spokes had also distorted
    more. I therefore conclude that there must have been some movement of
    the spokes. If the spokes didn’t move, how else could there have been
    more distortion in the spoke holes and further bending in the spokes?

    Since I have been riding for a little over 50 years, I have ridden on
    quite a few wheels, and until the last few years they were not wheels I
    built.

    Quoted message said:

    Some builders were mistakenly attributing the movement to the
    spoke/nipple interface and unwinding. Those builders then applied
    red loctite to the threads of the spokes to keep them from moving.

    Quoted message said:

    However, the spoke was moving at the hub end and still slackening.

    I think you'll have to describe the model by which spokes move in the
    hub without ever going slack. What force is moving them and in which
    direction.

    They moved in the direction which is the same as you show in the “
    modifying the spoke elbows” in your section describing steel hubs and
    further the hub holes take on a more distorted look than your
    illustration of the plain hole hubs.
    Braking forces, pedaling forces, and riding over bumps adds some
    tension to some spokes at some times. I grant you that these forces,
    taken one at a time, are not as great as the force in stress relieving,
    but forces from pedaling, braking, and hitting bumps occur many times
    while riding thousands of miles.

    Quoted message said:

    I am sure they weren't moving as the end was in the exact same
    location inside the nipple and it was impossible to turn the nipple
    off the spoke with a DT spoke wrench and as much force as I could
    apply.

    You mean "as much force as the spoke would withstand". I can twist
    off a spoke with a slot jaw spoke wrench.

    The wheel that I worked on had red loctite on spoke threads, but I at
    first didn’t know it was there. I saw the wheel when the builder
    completed it. It had DT Alpine III spokes, Shimano XT hubs, and Mavic
    D521 rims. It was built in 3 cross pattern. I stress relieved it
    according to your method and with significant grip on all opposing
    pairs of spokes. I checked the tension all around and wrote it down on
    a piece of graph paper for future reference. The wheel had very even
    tension and 120 kgf on all spokes.

    As an aside, the Park Tool site has a nice little Conversion Calculator
    for their tension gauge and record keeping spreadsheet at:
    http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/TCC.shtml
    And then click on the link TCC 1.xls
    The wheel was from a local downhill rider. He rode it for the a few
    weeks on some local downhill courses. The rider brought the wheel over
    for me to look at because he suspected that it was losing tension as the
    tone of the spokes was going down in frequency. I noticed that that
    although the wheel was still quite true, the spoke tension was down to
    70 kgf tension on all spokes. The nipples wouldn’t turn.
    I then pulled off the rim tape and saw remnants of the red loctite on
    the inside threads of the nipples. My point is that there was
    decreased tension in the spokes and that it couldn’t have come from the
    nipples unthreading from the spokes.

    To me this little descriptions sound curiouser by the moment. A deja-
    vue of olden days when such stories of wheels abounded. Are you sure
    you didn't take Gerd Schraner's the art of wheel building to
    literally?
    I haven’t read Gerd’s book.

    If the spokes don’t move after tensioning them, what is the point of
    improving the spoke line at the hub?

    Could you explain your statement in the section “Improving the Spoke
    Line”:
    “If there is an unsupported bend in a spoke, it will flex with changing
    loads causing fatigue and early failure.” ?

    Is this flex just elastic, with no plastic deformation?

    Could you also explain how many repeats of stress relieving you think
    it takes to “determine experimentally” the tension limit?
    . And if you know if there is any movement in the spoke elbow area
    and/or distortion in the hub flange spoke holes during these repeated
    tensioning cycles.

  3. [quote="Dan Daniel"]On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 13:49:42 +1000, daveornee
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Is your news reader dealing with quotations correctly? It seems as if
    there are sections that are quotes but not marked as such. I was
    getting quite confused trying to figure out what was your statement,
    etc. Oh well....


    I am not sure about my news reader dealing with anything correctly..
    of course it lools like it could be cockpit trouble... the guy at the controls may be out of control.

    Stand By! I am waiting for the reboot from Mark and Jobst.

  4. daveornee said:


    Dan Daniel said:

    On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 13:49:42 +1000, daveornee
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Is your news reader dealing with quotations correctly? It seems as if
    there are sections that are quotes but not marked as such. I was
    getting quite confused trying to figure out what was your statement,
    etc. Oh well....

    I am not sure about my news reader dealing with anything correctly..
    of course it lools like it could be cockpit trouble... the guy at the
    controls may be out of control.

    Stand By! I am waiting for the reboot from Mark and Jobst.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Maybe just a slight punch to the head will take care of
    everything? Well, I gave up trying to separate your responses

    Quoted message said:

    from the original and the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    previous comments...... Geez, looks like I am top posting

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    my own posts.

  5. Dave Ornee writes:

    Dave, please look at the test below. This is how a series of
    citations should look so that the progression of dialog can be
    followed. I am responding to your last posting that is marked ">"
    below. Also, for contractions like (didn't), please use ('😉 instead
    of (?). ("😉 is generally used for quotations as well. Try it. I've
    fixed these in this text.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Spokes have only tension, there are no radial, lateral and
    torsional forces, and as I just pointed out, spokes don't move in
    the flange and never again see a tension even nearly as high as
    stress relieving.

    Quoted message said:

    I am not arguing the size of the forces compared to stress
    relieving. I am also not just talking about the force(s) in the
    spoke; but the forces on the hub.

    Yes, that is my question. From where do these forces come and how do
    they affect the spoke-flange interface?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If you take a wheel that is just built following your "book" and
    then disassemble it; you will see some of the "spoke alignment
    improvement" shape on the spoke surrounding the elbow and some
    small amount of deforming of the areas in and around the spoke
    flange hole. If you take the same wheel after it has been ridden
    for 1,000s of miles you will see further deformation of
    both... and if you haven't corrected the spoke tension during that
    time/distance, you will find that the spokes have slackened.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I don't believe you have ever seen a comparison between a newly
    built wheel and the same wheel used, in which such changes can or
    have been determined. I have take apart enough wheels to know that
    this is untrue... but it is what the purveyors of the method
    visualize and want you to believe. Just think of all the lectures
    we used to hear on the benefits of tying and soldering that were
    given by "known experts" and people who built durable wheels.

    Quoted message said:

    I have taken apart a few wheels, built by a few different builders,
    and made the comparisons. What I saw was more deformation of the
    spoke holes and more deformation of the spokes. Yes, I looked
    before riding them and after riding them.

    Quoted message said:

    What do you mean by purveyors of the method visualize?
    I am not thinking about lectures of anyone.

    Purveyors=: People who advise hammering on spoke heads to prevent
    spoke movement.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Not every spoke & hub have the same relative dimensions, so the
    amount of change can also vary be amounts that would make a
    significant difference in the resulting slackening. One of
    differing dimensions if DT Spokes in original, Revision 1, and
    Revision 2 having the difference of length amounting to 0.85 mm.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    So? What does this have to do with seating the heads? That might
    be an argument for washers for too long an elbow.

    Quoted message said:

    Yes, I think that washers are a good idea, especially when the spoke
    head to elbow distance is greater than the thickness of the hub
    flange at the spoke hole. The longer the section of unsupported
    distance from flange to elbow, the longer the moment arm is to act
    on that segment of the spoke.

    So again, what does "seating" spoke heads have to do with elbow length?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I have seen such movement that I attribute to this from examining
    other builder's wheels.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Certainly not your own. [I said in jest from the way you said that.]

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks for that vote of confidence. I am still interested in
    learning and that is one reason I read your book and why I read this
    group's information.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    How did you "see" such motion and how do you know that it occurred?
    Are you talking about wheels with loose spokes?

    Quoted message said:

    As I stated before, I have taken apart wheels that were newly built
    to see what the hubs and spokes looked like. I put them back
    together as they were and road them.

    I still do not see how you could "see" that spokes had been moving.
    Can you explain that?

    Quoted message said:

    After ~10,000 miles I measured and found reduced spoke tension, and
    then took them apart again and noticed that the hub holes were more
    distorted and the spokes had also distorted more. I therefore
    conclude that there must have been some movement of the spokes. If
    the spokes didn't move, how else could there have been more
    distortion in the spoke holes and further bending in the spokes?

    I take it you removed the spokes from the hub. Is that correct?
    Spokes have a die flash, a small ridge made by the split conical die
    in which the head is formed by a single blow. With time the die sharp
    edges wear off so that a gap develops on the closure edged and these
    cause a raised ridge under the spoke head. Dies should be replaced
    before this ridge becomes more than a vestige on the spoke.

    Spoke elbows are subsequently bent onto the spoke with no orientation
    with respect to head forming so the flash can lie in any orientation.
    If you take spokes out of the hum, this is one problem they have.
    They make a new mark in the flange. However, you should probably
    avoid re-using spokes removed from a wheel if you can avoid it because
    once tensioned, spoke line improved and stress relieved, spokes have a
    unique shape and home location in the hub that is difficult to achieve
    if the spoke is reused.

    Again, what mechanism and method do you visualize for spoke movement?

    Quoted message said:

    Since I have been riding for a little over 50 years, I have ridden
    on quite a few wheels, and until the last few years they were not
    wheels I built.

    Then you ought to have had plenty of experience with spoke failures.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Some builders were mistakenly attributing the movement to the
    spoke/nipple interface and unwinding. Those builders then applied
    red Loctite to the threads of the spokes to keep them from moving.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    However, the spoke was moving at the hub end and still slackening.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I think you'll have to describe the model by which spokes move in
    the hub without ever going slack. What force is moving them and in
    which direction.

    Quoted message said:

    They moved in the direction which is the same as you show in the
    modifying the spoke elbows? in your section describing steel hubs
    and further the hub holes take on a more distorted look than your
    illustration of the plain hole hubs.

    Modifying the spoke line is a manual process to prevent spoke flexing.
    This does not make the spoke move in the flange but rather overlays a
    constant bending moment on spoke tension, thereby accelerating
    fatigue. This is important to the spoke but does not affect the
    flange hole.

    Quoted message said:

    Braking forces, pedaling forces, and riding over bumps adds some
    tension to some spokes at some times. I grant you that these
    forces, taken one at a time, are not as great as the force in stress
    relieving, but forces from pedaling, braking, and hitting bumps
    occur many times while riding thousands of miles.

    So? All this occurs within elastic limits of spokes and flanges.
    Because tension is far lower than during stress relieving, this cannot
    have a plastic effect on either spokes or hub and therefore, no
    subsequent setting can occur.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I am sure they weren't moving as the end was in the exact same
    location inside the nipple and it was impossible to turn the
    nipple off the spoke with a DT spoke wrench and as much force as I
    could apply.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    You mean "as much force as the spoke would withstand". I can twist
    off a spoke with a slot jaw spoke wrench.

    Quoted message said:

    The wheel that I worked on had red Loctite on spoke threads, but I
    at first didn't know it was there. I saw the wheel when the builder
    completed it. It had DT Alpine III spokes, Shimano XT hubs, and
    Mavic D521 rims. It was built in 3 cross pattern. I stress
    relieved it according to your method and with significant grip on
    all opposing pairs of spokes. I checked the tension all around and
    wrote it down on a piece of graph paper for future reference. The
    wheel had very even tension and 120 kgf on all spokes.

    That doesn't change what I said above. You must have a bum spoke
    wrench.

    Quoted message said:

    As an aside, the Park Tool site has a nice little Conversion
    Calculator for their tension gauge and record keeping spreadsheet
    at:

    http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/TCC.shtml

    Quoted message said:

    And then click on the link TCC 1.xls

    Let's not get into the merits of spoke tension values. The subject is
    spoke moving in the hub. If that were the case, my spokes and hubs
    with around 300,000 miles on them should have worn out and release the
    spokes by now.

    Quoted message said:

    The wheel was from a local downhill rider.

    I don't understand what "downhill racer" has to do with spoke
    movement. Can you explain?

    Quoted message said:

    He rode it for the a few weeks on some local downhill courses. The
    rider brought the wheel over for me to look at because he suspected
    that it was losing tension as the tone of the spokes was going down
    in frequency. I noticed that that although the wheel was still
    quite true, the spoke tension was down to 70 kgf tension on all
    spokes. The nipples wouldn't turn. I then pulled off the rim tape
    and saw remnants of the red Loctite on the inside threads of the
    nipples. My point is that there was decreased tension in the spokes
    and that it couldn't have come from the nipples unthreading from the
    spokes.

    Well you certainly build a good scenario. The trouble is that it does
    not fit with the wheels I have built and observed, nor does you spoke
    loosening make sense. For a spoke to loosen from spoke head setting
    in the flange, the spoke would need to project from the flange as is
    sink in and re-bend itself. You must realize that the elbow will not
    do this but will rather break off from fatigue than reshape in use.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    To me this little descriptions sound curiouser by the moment. A
    deja-vue of olden days when such stories of wheels abounded. Are
    you sure you didn't take Gerd Schraner's the art of wheel building
    to literally?

    Quoted message said:

    I haven't read Gerd's book.

    Quoted message said:

    If the spokes don't move after tensioning them, what is the point of
    improving the spoke line at the hub?

    To prevent fatigue failures from a spoke loaded in bending. Spoke
    material should ideally be only in tension from the head to the
    thread. Improving the spoke line gets rid of significant bending
    loads, but since you read that, you new that already.

    Quoted message said:

    Could you explain your statement in the section "improving the Spoke
    Line":

    Quoted message said:

    "If there is an unsupported bend in a spoke, it will flex with
    changing loads causing fatigue and early failure."

    This is elastic strain in the spoke and not in the flange. It is
    outside of the flange and lies just beyond the elbow. It's main
    detrimental effect is adding bending stress to spoke tension. The
    powerful effect of bending should be apparent from manually kinking a
    spoke (bringing it beyond yield) compared to trying to stretch it to
    yield manually. This is impossible. This should make clear what an
    enormous force a slight bend can cause.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Is this flex just elastic, with no plastic deformation?

    Quoted message said:

    Could you also explain how many repeats of stress relieving you
    think it takes to "determine experimentally" the tension limit?

    You have a tensiometer I take it, so you don't need to do that. The
    method was mainly used for wheels before anyone used tensiometers or
    had any idea that wheels should be tight for high performance.

    Quoted message said:

    And if you know if there is any movement in the spoke elbow area
    and/or distortion in the hub flange spoke holes during these
    repeated tensioning cycles.

    Flange deformation is an asymptotic effect that initially distorts
    flange hole as spokes are tensioned. By the time the spokes are to be
    stress relieved, nearly all the plastic deformation that will occur
    has occurred. You can test this by measuring tension before and after
    stress relieving. From the way you word your question, you seem to
    believe that flanges continues to sag with every stress change. They
    don't.

    Fix your editor or maybe it's your typing!

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

  6. jobst brandt said:

    Dave Ornee writes:

    Dave, please look at the test below. This is how a series of
    citations should look so that the progression of dialog can be
    followed. I am responding to your last posting that is marked ">"
    below. Also, for contractions like (didn't), please use ('😉 instead
    of (?). ("😉 is generally used for quotations as well. Try it. I've
    fixed these in this text.

    I believe his software is automatically using broken Micro$oft-specific
    characters. There is probably an option to toggle this behaviour. If not,
    there is plenty of less crippled software out there.

    --
    Benjamin Lewis

    Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.
    -- Walt Kelly

  7. Trevor Jeffrey said:

    Mark McMaster wrote in message <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Trevor Jeffrey said:

    Please explain how a spoke subjected to a rocking motion eventually fails
    due to fatigue, preferably in ten words.

    What rocking motion are you referring to? Spokes in a properly
    tensioned wheel do not rock. Another straw man.

    I suppose this goes back to the example you raised of
    bending a paper clip until it breaks. Although that example
    is often used it is not applicable to bicycle spokes. The
    paper clip example involves repeated bending the spoke
    plastically, well beyond its yield point (low cycle post
    yield fatigue). That does not happen to spokes in a wheel,
    which maintain an average stress well below their yield.

    So, I guess we can add metal fatigue to the ever growing
    list of mechanical concepts you don't understand. You
    really should quit while you're behind.

    Yield levels do not need to be reached for fatigue to take place, fatigue
    takes place at much lower levels than yield point. What you are saying is
    that you do not know. If you don't want to know that's your problem.
    There is no need to publicise your ignorance. The paper clip demonstration
    is an exaggeration that can be performed in seconds. Some studying on the
    subject may take a few minutes to understand. Keep your head in the sand.

    Let's see - you admit the paper clip example isn't a model
    of spoke behavior, yet you try to use it to prove your ideas
    on spoke behavior. At least this is no departure from your
    usual tactics. You ignore evidence that is laid before you
    that doesn't fit your view, and yet present no evidence that
    supports your view. You refuse to do any basic research,
    and yet you call others ignorant. I believe that Bertrand
    Russell was referring to people like you when he said:

    "The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics
    are always so certain of themselves, but wiser people so
    full of doubts."

    The more you squawk, the more you sound like this fellow,
    and will probably end up just like him:

    http://www.timecube.com/

    Mark McMaster
    [email hidden]

  8. daveornee said:

    <SNIP>

    Spokes have only tension, there are no radial, lateral and torsional
    forces, and as I just pointed out, spokes don't move in the flange and
    never again see a tension even nearly as high as stress relieving.

    I am not arguing the size of the forces compared to stress relieving.
    I am also not just talking about the force(s) in the spoke; but the
    forces on the hub.

    Quoted message said:

    If you take a wheel that is just built following your "book" and

    then

    Quoted message said:

    disassemble it; you will see some of the "spoke alignment

    improvement"

    Quoted message said:

    shape on the spoke surrounding the elbow and some small amount of
    deforming of the areas in and around the spoke flange hole. If you
    take the same wheel after it has been ridden for 1,000s of miles you
    will see further deformation of both... and if you haven't corrected
    the spoke tension during that time/distance, you will find that the
    spokes have slackened.

    I don't believe you have ever seen a comparison between a newly built
    wheel and the same wheel used, in which such changes can or have been
    determined. I have take apart enough wheels to know that this is
    untrue... but it is what the purveyors of the method visualize and
    want you to believe. Just think of all the lectures we used to hear
    on the benefits of tying and soldering that were given by "known
    experts" and people who built durable wheels.

    I have taken apart a few wheels, built by a few different builders, and
    made the comparisons. What I saw was more deformation of the spoke
    holes and more deformation of the spokes. Yes, I looked before riding
    them and after riding them.
    What do you mean by “purveyors of the method visualize”?
    I am not thinking about lectures of anyone.

    Quoted message said:

    Not every spoke & hub have the same relative dimensions, so the
    amount of change can also vary be amounts that would make a
    significant difference in the resulting slackening. One of
    differing dimensions if DT Spokes in original, Revision 1, and
    Revision 2 having the difference of length amounting to 0.85 mm.

    So? What does this have to do with seating the heads? That might be
    an argument for washers for too long an elbow.

    Yes, I think that washers are a good idea, especially when the spoke
    head to elbow distance is greater than the thickness of the hub flange
    at the spoke hole. The longer the section of unsupported distance from
    flange to elbow, the longer the moment arm is to act on that segment of
    the spoke

    Quoted message said:

    I have seen such movement that I attribute to this from examining
    other builder's wheels.

    Certainly not your own.

    Thanks for that vote of confidence. I am still interested in learning
    and that is one reason I read your book and why I read this group’s
    information.
    How did you "see" such motion and how do you
    know that it occurred? Are you talking about wheels with loose
    spokes?
    As I stated before, I have taken apart wheels that were newly built to
    see what the hubs and spokes looked like. I put them back together as
    they were and road them. After ~10,000 miles I measured and found
    reduced spoke tension, and then took them apart again and noticed that
    the hub holes were more distorted and the spokes had also distorted
    more. I therefore conclude that there must have been some movement of
    the spokes. If the spokes didn’t move, how else could there have been
    more distortion in the spoke holes and further bending in the spokes?

    Since I have been riding for a little over 50 years, I have ridden on
    quite a few wheels, and until the last few years they were not wheels I
    built.

    Quoted message said:

    Some builders were mistakenly attributing the movement to the
    spoke/nipple interface and unwinding. Those builders then applied
    red loctite to the threads of the spokes to keep them from moving.

    Quoted message said:

    However, the spoke was moving at the hub end and still slackening.

    I think you'll have to describe the model by which spokes move in the
    hub without ever going slack. What force is moving them and in which
    direction.

    They moved in the direction which is the same as you show in the “
    modifying the spoke elbows” in your section describing steel hubs and
    further the hub holes take on a more distorted look than your
    illustration of the plain hole hubs.
    Braking forces, pedaling forces, and riding over bumps adds some
    tension to some spokes at some times. I grant you that these forces,
    taken one at a time, are not as great as the force in stress relieving,
    but forces from pedaling, braking, and hitting bumps occur many times
    while riding thousands of miles.

    Quoted message said:

    I am sure they weren't moving as the end was in the exact same
    location inside the nipple and it was impossible to turn the nipple
    off the spoke with a DT spoke wrench and as much force as I could
    apply.

    You mean "as much force as the spoke would withstand". I can twist
    off a spoke with a slot jaw spoke wrench.

    The wheel that I worked on had red loctite on spoke threads, but I at
    first didn’t know it was there. I saw the wheel when the builder
    completed it. It had DT Alpine III spokes, Shimano XT hubs, and Mavic
    D521 rims. It was built in 3 cross pattern. I stress relieved it
    according to your method and with significant grip on all opposing
    pairs of spokes. I checked the tension all around and wrote it down on
    a piece of graph paper for future reference. The wheel had very even
    tension and 120 kgf on all spokes.

    As an aside, the Park Tool site has a nice little Conversion Calculator
    for their tension gauge and record keeping spreadsheet at:
    http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/TCC.shtml
    And then click on the link TCC 1.xls
    The wheel was from a local downhill rider. He rode it for the a few
    weeks on some local downhill courses. The rider brought the wheel over
    for me to look at because he suspected that it was losing tension as the
    tone of the spokes was going down in frequency. I noticed that that
    although the wheel was still quite true, the spoke tension was down to
    70 kgf tension on all spokes. The nipples wouldn’t turn.
    I then pulled off the rim tape and saw remnants of the red loctite on
    the inside threads of the nipples. My point is that there was
    decreased tension in the spokes and that it couldn’t have come from the
    nipples unthreading from the spokes.

    what??? measurements??? whoa there, tex!

    your results aren't surprising. hubs are soft aluminum alloy. soft
    aluminum alloy yields. and it /certainly/ yields before the steel does.
    in an application where wheels are getting pounded, are subject to out
    of plane loads in events like skewed landings from airborne, etc., it's
    not hard to see yielding & wear occurring.

    any wheel with sufficient lateral load will reduce tension [temporarily]
    in some spokes entirely. at the unload point, a spoke may move minutely
    in the hub hole producing both wear and impact when it reconnects.
    repeat that process a few thousand times with a hard steel on a soft
    aluminum alloy and you have hole distortion sufficient to loosen some
    tension.

    i have a collection of broken spokes that evidence fatigue nucleation at
    both the inside and the outside of the spoke elbow. if spoke loading
    was simply minor decreases in tension magnitude, i would expect to see
    fatigue initiate on one side of the elbow only. the fact that it
    appears on both indicates the "radial load only" model is insufficient
    to describe all types of wheel [spoke] loading. of course, setting up a
    model with strain gauges would be relevant at this point, but hey, that
    might not produce results we "want" to see.

    really, and to state the obvious, the reason spokes fatigue at the elbow
    in the first place is precisely because there /is/ flex in the spoke at
    this point!!! apart from the fact that no flex = no fatigue, flex also
    implies a degree of movement relative to the hub hole. movement =
    wear/deformation. just like people have no trouble accepting that a
    loosening crank bolt is caused by "invisible" flex in a so-called
    inflexible crank/spindle, there should be no hard concepts to grasp
    regarding spokes/hubs here either.

    Quoted message said:


    To me this little descriptions sound curiouser by the moment. A deja-
    vue of olden days when such stories of wheels abounded. Are you sure
    you didn't take Gerd Schraner's the art of wheel building to
    literally?
    I haven’t read Gerd’s book.

    If the spokes don’t move after tensioning them, what is the point of
    improving the spoke line at the hub?

    Could you explain your statement in the section “Improving the Spoke
    Line”:
    “If there is an unsupported bend in a spoke, it will flex with changing
    loads causing fatigue and early failure.” ?

    Is this flex just elastic, with no plastic deformation?

    Could you also explain how many repeats of stress relieving you think
    it takes to “determine experimentally” the tension limit?
    . And if you know if there is any movement in the spoke elbow area
    and/or distortion in the hub flange spoke holes during these repeated
    tensioning cycles.

  9. Mark McMaster said:

    The more you squawk, the more you sound like this fellow,
    and will probably end up just like him:

    http://www.timecube.com/\

    Not enough pictures.

    Bill "liked the 3D rotating thing though" S.

  10. Jim Adney wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:
    22 Aug 2004 04:03:53 +0100 'Trevor Jeffrey said:


    Mark McMaster wrote in message <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    The idea that spokes "work harden and break" in use is a
    common misconception by those who do not understand metal
    fatigue. It is unfortunately common that the mechanisms of
    wheel failure are not understood by wheelbuilding "experts".
    Take for example this other nugget of wisdom in the web page:

    Please explain how a spoke subjected to a rocking motion eventually fails
    due to fatigue, preferably in ten words.

    One end is fixed. The other end rocks. The part in-between flexes and
    can eventually fail.

    Sorry, 17 words.


    Due to fatigue?

    Trevor

  11. Mark McMaster wrote in message <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Trevor Jeffrey said:

    Mark McMaster wrote in message <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Trevor Jeffrey wrote:

    >Please explain how a spoke subjected to a rocking motion eventually


    fails

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >due to fatigue, preferably in ten words.

    What rocking motion are you referring to? Spokes in a properly
    tensioned wheel do not rock. Another straw man.

    I suppose this goes back to the example you raised of
    bending a paper clip until it breaks. Although that example
    is often used it is not applicable to bicycle spokes. The
    paper clip example involves repeated bending the spoke
    plastically, well beyond its yield point (low cycle post
    yield fatigue). That does not happen to spokes in a wheel,
    which maintain an average stress well below their yield.

    So, I guess we can add metal fatigue to the ever growing
    list of mechanical concepts you don't understand. You
    really should quit while you're behind.

    Yield levels do not need to be reached for fatigue to take place, fatigue
    takes place at much lower levels than yield point. What you are saying


    is

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    that you do not know. If you don't want to know that's your problem.
    There is no need to publicise your ignorance. The paper clip


    demonstration

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    is an exaggeration that can be performed in seconds. Some studying on


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    subject may take a few minutes to understand. Keep your head in the


    sand.

    Quoted message said:


    Let's see - you admit the paper clip example isn't a model
    of spoke behavior, yet you try to use it to prove your ideas
    on spoke behavior. At least this is no departure from your
    usual tactics. You ignore evidence that is laid before you
    that doesn't fit your view, and yet present no evidence that
    supports your view. You refuse to do any basic research,
    and yet you call others ignorant. I believe that Bertrand
    Russell was referring to people like you when he said:

    There is no need for a model, take spoke, failed by fatigue and examine the
    fracture, magnifying as required and compare with standard reference
    material such as Metals Handbook, American society for metals. Under close
    examination the fracture will be found to compare well with that indicated
    for high nominal stress, round section, no stress concentration,
    unidirectional bending (or possibly reversed bending). The evidence lies
    within the fracture. Dislocations are seen on the outside of the bend.

    I have done many hours of research, I reserve you from the boredom, and give
    you the most pertinent points.

    Trevor

  12. Tom Sherman wrote in message <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:


    Work hardening: An increase in hardness and yield strength that is due
    to plastic deformation.

    Spokes do not get "bent back and forth" beyond yield during the normal
    use of a wheel, and if they did they would typically fail somewhere
    between 10 and 100 cycles, not a few million cycles.

    Using the term "work hardening" as a synonym for "fatigue" is not
    acceptable usage, and does not help your credibility.

    Depends on who you are communicating with. So substitute fatigued in place
    of work hardened in my post.

    Trevor

  13. Sheldon Brown said:

    ...
    I am enough of a toolaholic to have actually bought one of the $50 DT
    spoke wrenches, and I use that regularly...is it worht $50? Probably
    not, but I like it a lot, and I can afford it.

    Considering Sheldon's profession and the type of shop he works at, I
    strongly suspect that his spoke wrench cost per use is lower than almost
    all the people that buy less expensive spoke wrenches. If he enjoys
    using it more than a lesser spoke wrench, it likely increases his
    productivity when wheel building and wheel truing. Therefore, over the
    long run, the DT spoke wrench may not be the most expensive choice.

    --
    Tom Sherman

  14. Tom Sherman said:
    Quoted message said:

    ... I am enough of a toolaholic to have actually bought one of the
    $50 DT spoke wrenches, and I use that regularly...is it worth $50?
    Probably not, but I like it a lot, and I can afford it.

    Quoted message said:

    Considering Sheldon's profession and the type of shop he works at, I
    strongly suspect that his spoke wrench cost per use is lower than
    almost all the people that buy less expensive spoke wrenches. If he
    enjoys using it more than a lesser spoke wrench, it likely increases
    his productivity when wheel building and wheel truing. Therefore,
    over the long run, the DT spoke wrench may not be the most expensive
    choice.

    Just the same, I prefer a spoke wrench that can engage spoke nipples
    like an open end wrench rather than a box end wrench, the kind shown:

    http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp

    End engagement takes longer and is unnecessary from my experience.
    Rounding spoke nipples is caused by lack of lubrication at the rim
    interface rather than thread tightening torque. Because many wheel
    builders failed to lubricate their rims, they rounded spoke nipples.
    This brought us these spoke wrenches at added expense and reduced
    convenience. A parallel jaw spoke wrench is adequate to twist of any
    spoke I have encountered without rounding the nipple flats.

    Next time you hear someone adjusting spokes with the nipples making a
    high pitched cork-in-the-bottle squeak, you'll know this requires a
    four cornered spoke wrench. Of course oil works even better.

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

  15. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Quoted message said:
    Tom Sherman said:
    Quoted message said:

    ... I am enough of a toolaholic to have actually bought one of the
    $50 DT spoke wrenches, and I use that regularly...is it worth $50?
    Probably not, but I like it a lot, and I can afford it.

    Quoted message said:

    Considering Sheldon's profession and the type of shop he works at, I
    strongly suspect that his spoke wrench cost per use is lower than
    almost all the people that buy less expensive spoke wrenches. If he
    enjoys using it more than a lesser spoke wrench, it likely increases
    his productivity when wheel building and wheel truing. Therefore,
    over the long run, the DT spoke wrench may not be the most expensive
    choice.

    Just the same, I prefer a spoke wrench that can engage spoke nipples
    like an open end wrench rather than a box end wrench, the kind shown:

    http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp

    When you posted DT Swiss' page, were you aware of THIS:

    http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp?fuseaction=proline.bike

    (warning: gratuitous beekeeper's wire picture)

    Quoted message said:

    End engagement takes longer and is unnecessary from my experience.
    Rounding spoke nipples is caused by lack of lubrication at the rim
    interface rather than thread tightening torque. Because many wheel
    builders failed to lubricate their rims, they rounded spoke nipples.
    This brought us these spoke wrenches at added expense and reduced
    convenience. A parallel jaw spoke wrench is adequate to twist of any
    spoke I have encountered without rounding the nipple flats.

    Girls, don't argue! It's two wrenches, two wrenches in one:

    http://www.pedros.com/frames/tools.html

    I have found this tool useful for salvaging spokes when the nipple was
    rounded to near-death. Yes, I am so cheap it pleases me to save
    individual spokes. Yes, I understand this is a pathology, not a virtue.

    Quoted message said:

    Next time you hear someone adjusting spokes with the nipples making a
    high pitched cork-in-the-bottle squeak, you'll know this requires a
    four cornered spoke wrench. Of course oil works even better.

    Jobst speaks the truth: having tried it both ways, I strongly endorse
    using lubricant on spokes. Why did I try it both ways? Because I misread
    the directions in Zinn's, and didn't realize I should grease the spokes.
    This is doubly dumb because there's hardly a fastener or surface I don't
    lubricate, a necessary habit in rain-drenched Vancouver.

    Current weather: rain-drenched.
    --
    Ryan Cousineau, [email hidden] http://www.wiredcola.com
    Verus de parvis; verus de magnis.

  16. Ryan Cousineau said:

    I have found this tool useful for salvaging spokes when the nipple was
    rounded to near-death. Yes, I am so cheap it pleases me to save
    individual spokes. Yes, I understand this is a pathology, not a virtue.

    You don't really throw out the spoke if the nipple is destroyed, do you?
    If you do, then I'm even cheaper than you ;P

    --
    Benjamin Lewis

    Hey! I'm only fourteen, sickly 'n' thin
    Tried all of my life just to grow me a chin
    It popped out once, but my dad pushed it in. -- FZ

  17. Ryan Cousineau said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] wrote:

    [snip]

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Just the same, I prefer a spoke wrench that can engage spoke nipples
    like an open end wrench rather than a box end wrench, the kind shown:

    http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp

    When you posted DT Swiss' page, were you aware of THIS:

    http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp?fuseaction=proline.bike

    (warning: gratuitous beekeeper's wire picture)

    [snip]

    Dear Ryan,

    But does DT come out and admit that they're raiding the
    hives? If you click on accessories and then on "tying wire,"
    you get this weasel-worded evasion:

    "Tying Wire"

    "A special wire for tying the spoke lacing points. The
    galvanized wire surface serves as a temperature indicator
    when soldering.100 m roll."

    Not a word about bees! Search the site and you find a
    suspicious silence about bees and beekeepers. They're not
    ashamed of what they use the wire for, just of where they
    get it from!

    How many apiaries were plundered to amass these huge rolls
    of beekeepers wire? Oh, the humanity!

    Indignantly,

    Carl Fogel

  18. I reported:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    ... I am enough of a toolaholic to have actually bought one of the
    $50 DT spoke wrenches, and I use that regularly...is it worth $50?
    Probably not, but I like it a lot, and I can afford it.



    Jobst said:


    Just the same, I prefer a spoke wrench that can engage spoke nipples
    like an open end wrench rather than a box end wrench, the kind shown:

    http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp

    End engagement takes longer and is unnecessary from my experience.

    The word "necessary" always raises a bit of a flag for me. In a pinch,
    I've trued wheels on the bike with a six inch crescent wrench. I never
    claimed that my DT wrench was "necessary." I just like it.

    I find it helpful, especially when I need to turn spokes by multiple
    half turns, because I don't have to worry about the wrench falling off
    of the nipple between fetches as I move my hand for another grip.

    If the phone rings and I have to leave the wheel I'm working on (and I
    get a LOT of phone calls!) the wrench will mark my place.

    Quoted message said:

    Rounding spoke nipples is caused by lack of lubrication at the rim
    interface rather than thread tightening torque. Because many wheel
    builders failed to lubricate their rims, they rounded spoke nipples.
    This brought us these spoke wrenches at added expense and reduced
    convenience. A parallel jaw spoke wrench is adequate to twist of any
    spoke I have encountered without rounding the nipple flats.

    I'm guessing you don't do that much work on rusty old machine-built
    wheels...

    Quoted message said:

    Next time you hear someone adjusting spokes with the nipples making a
    high pitched cork-in-the-bottle squeak, you'll know this requires a
    four cornered spoke wrench. Of course oil works even better.

    Yes, though I usually use grease when I'm doing the building.

    Sheldon "Sometimes Buys Snap-on Stuff Too" Brown
    +------------------------------------------------------+
    | It were not best that we should all think alike; |
    | it is difference of opinion that makes horse-races. |
    | -- Mark Twain |
    +------------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  19. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Quoted message said:

    On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 18:49:20 -0700, Ryan Cousineau
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp?fuseaction=proline.bike

    (warning: gratuitous beekeeper's wire picture)

    [snip]

    Dear Ryan,

    But does DT come out and admit that they're raiding the
    hives? If you click on accessories and then on "tying wire,"
    you get this weasel-worded evasion:

    "Tying Wire"

    "A special wire for tying the spoke lacing points. The
    galvanized wire surface serves as a temperature indicator
    when soldering.100 m roll."

    Not a word about bees! Search the site and you find a
    suspicious silence about bees and beekeepers. They're not
    ashamed of what they use the wire for, just of where they
    get it from!

    How many apiaries were plundered to amass these huge rolls
    of beekeepers wire? Oh, the humanity!

    "Oh, the apiary!" would have been funnier.

    I prefer my earlier, funnier postings,
    --
    Ryan Cousineau, [email hidden] http://www.wiredcola.com
    Verus de parvis; verus de magnis.

  20. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Benjamin Lewis said:
    Ryan Cousineau said:

    I have found this tool useful for salvaging spokes when the nipple was
    rounded to near-death. Yes, I am so cheap it pleases me to save
    individual spokes. Yes, I understand this is a pathology, not a virtue.

    You don't really throw out the spoke if the nipple is destroyed, do you?
    If you do, then I'm even cheaper than you ;P

    What, precisely, do you think "salvage" means? Though I draw the line at
    the spokes I pulled out of a wheel that was breaking spokes at the rate
    of one per week (thus earning it a set of shiny new spokes), apparently
    due to corrosion issues, or possibly a poor wheel-build that only lasted
    20 years or so.

    I had to use new nipples for the new spokes I had, but the retired
    nipples are safely stored for the future.

    When considering how cheap I am, note that every bike I own (except the
    mountain bike my parents bought for me 15 years ago) probably cost less
    to buy than your touring machine: race bike, mountain bike, commuter
    bike, fixed gear, and BMX LX, plus various in-progress projects. I
    figure the total cost of all those machines at about $1200.

    *note inept fudge: with many of these bikes I have spent more than the
    purchase price in parts. The front brake on the Bianchi commuter machine
    cost more than the entire bike; even the new freewheel I just bought
    for the Bianchi cost more than several of these bicycles, including the
    Bianchi. If I buy a cheap-but-new fixed-gear hub for my track project,
    that part will likely cost more than the combined purchase prices of the
    fixie**, the commuter, the BMX LX**, a mountain bike I bought mainly for
    the lighting system, the folding bike, and a road bike I am
    rehabilitating for a short-statured sister of a friend**.

    **These three are the worst cheats of all, since they were all free. Two
    were found together beside a dumpster, while the BMX LX properly belongs
    to my brother. I claimed squatter's rights after finding it in the
    family attic.

    I paid $1 ea. for the tires on my race bike,
    --
    Ryan Cousineau, [email hidden] http://www.wiredcola.com
    Verus de parvis; verus de magnis.

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