B&M Ixon / SMART handlebar mount compatibility

"kimble" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:t5l6kf.v2l.ln@willow...

Quoted message said:

This is probably a bit of a long shot, but...

Kim,

At an improbability of 10,000:1 I think I can help on two counts.

I have an Ixon IQ and a SMART Polaris 5. They do both fit on each other
mounts. Sometimes I fit them the wrong way around by mistake, and have to
swap back. I used to have the original Ixon too.

The reason the cam broke is presumably because you did it up very tight
because it kept swiveling (been there with my original Ixon). IF its the
same problem I had this is because as you tighten it the one side of the
mount (the prongs) impact on the other side. This is wrong. You need to open
the OTHER side of the clamp first so the overall diameter of the mount is
bigger, and then tighten it with the cam, but not so the two sides touch. If
they do open the other side further. I was lucky mine bent but did not
break. This is very counter-intuitive. Apologies if you don't understand
what I mean, I can take a photo to explain tomorrow if need be. Also, did it
really snap, or just bend badly? If the plastic prongs bent you can bend
them back and it can still be serviceable, as they are in tension, not
compression when done up properly.

Also, personally I'd avoid the fork mount with the IQ as the beam is wider
than deep to start with. I find the light pattern is excellent from the
handlebars, once adjusted to a little higher angle than my old Ixon (non
IQ).

Also, also, probably worth dropping and Email to B&M telling them of your
problems, you never know they might send you a mount. Always worth including
you postal address, just in case :-)

Regards,

Jc.

Josey said:

At an improbability of 10,000:1 I think I can help on two counts.

Wow, it's like the newsgroup has an infinite improbability drive 🙂

Quoted message said:

I have an Ixon IQ and a SMART Polaris 5. They do both fit on each other
mounts. Sometimes I fit them the wrong way around by mistake, and have
to swap back. I used to have the original Ixon too.

Excellent news.

Quoted message said:

The reason the cam broke is presumably because you did it up very tight
because it kept swiveling (been there with my original Ixon).

Yeah, pretty much. The handlebars on my folding BSO are shiny stainless
steel (so the rubber doesn't grip very well), of such a diameter that it
really wants a half-turn round the thread for optimal tightness.
Obviously, given the choice of a bit too tight or a bit too loose, I
went for the former, with the inevitable result.

Here's a pic of the broken cam:
<http://www.ductilebiscuit.net/stuff/ixon_bracket_cam.jpg>

I should say that I've had no such problems with the bracket on my Dawes
hybrid, where the matte black handlebars lead to considerably less droop
at saner tightnesses.

Quoted message said:

IF its the
same problem I had this is because as you tighten it the one side of the
mount (the prongs) impact on the other side. This is wrong.
[snip]

Different failure mode, see photo.

Quoted message said:

Also, personally I'd avoid the fork mount with the IQ as the beam is
wider than deep to start with. I find the light pattern is excellent
from the handlebars, once adjusted to a little higher angle than my old
Ixon (non IQ).

Agreed. I did invest in one when I bought the Ixon, as it was cheaper
than the shipping to buy one separately later. Having experimented I
also concluded that the illumination is better from the handlebars
(especially on the folding bike where the fork is so low down), and all
things being equal, I'd rather it were up where I can reach it and use
the fork for a reflector.

Quoted message said:

Also, also, probably worth dropping and Email to B&M telling them of
your problems, you never know they might send you a mount. Always worth
including you postal address, just in case :-)

Yes, good idea. They obviously put the work into designing their
lights, so encouraging them to pay a bit more attention to the brackets
is probably worthwhile. And a free bracket isn't to be sneezed at 🙂

Thanks,

Kim.
--

Quoting kimble <[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

Yeah, pretty much. The handlebars on my folding BSO are shiny stainless
steel (so the rubber doesn't grip very well), of such a diameter that it
really wants a half-turn round the thread for optimal tightness.

In this situation, I wrap duct tape or a spare bit of rim tape round the
handlebar, which gives it a rough surface and makes it slightly larger.
--
David Damerell <[email hidden]> Distortion Field!
Today is Sunday, December - a weekend.

Josey said:

You need to
open the OTHER side of the clamp first so the overall diameter of the
mount is bigger, and then tighten it with the cam, but not so the two
sides touch. If they do open the other side further.

Having this morning received a Smart Polaris bracket (new but of unknown
vintage, for a couple of quid on ebay), this now makes sense.

It seems that although the bit that attaches to the light and
cam-tightening mechanisms are identical, there are two different
designs, the Smart having this additional adjustment that you refer to:

<http://www.ductilebiscuit.net/stuff/ixon_bracket_smart_bracket.jpg>

My broken Ixon bracket on the left, the Polaris bracket on the right.

I note that the pin that secures the cam is more solid in the Polaris
version - the Ixon one was able to slip out sideways if overtightened,
which is probably how mine broke.

For reference, the Ixon IQ fits the new bracket perfectly.

Kim.
--

kimble said:

Josey said:

You need to
open the OTHER side of the clamp first so the overall diameter of the
mount is bigger, and then tighten it with the cam, but not so the two
sides touch. If they do open the other side further.

Having this morning received a Smart Polaris bracket (new but of
unknown vintage, for a couple of quid on ebay), this now makes sense.

It seems that although the bit that attaches to the light and
cam-tightening mechanisms are identical, there are two different
designs, the Smart having this additional adjustment that you refer
to:
<http://www.ductilebiscuit.net/stuff/ixon_bracket_smart_bracket.jpg>

My broken Ixon bracket on the left, the Polaris bracket on the right.

I note that the pin that secures the cam is more solid in the Polaris
version - the Ixon one was able to slip out sideways if overtightened,
which is probably how mine broke.

Funny, I've had the opposite problem.

The bracket on the left was also supplied by Smart with their previous
versions of the Polaris light. The new bracket is lighter and can fit all
bar sizes, but the pin and cam is not as robust, IME.

By the way, if you ever find a light is too loose and rattly on one of these
brackets, stick a neat rectangle of insulating tape on top of the bracket
(as many layers as necessary) to fill up the space. Conversely, apply a dab
of grease if a light is too tight.

~PB

Quoted message said:

kimble wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

It seems that although the bit that attaches to the light and
cam-tightening mechanisms are identical, there are two different
designs, the Smart having this additional adjustment that you refer
to:
<http://www.ductilebiscuit.net/stuff/ixon_bracket_smart_bracket.jpg>

My broken Ixon bracket on the left, the Polaris bracket on the right.

Apologies, I went and looked with a light, and my two brackets are identical
to your two (except in one piece). I had forgotten the Ixon supplied bracket
did not have the other adjuster. I can see now (and had forgotten) I had got
around this by mounting the Ixon bracket on the center of the handlebars
where the bar diameter is bigger.

On the Ixon clip on the larger bar I only need to put very little pressure
on the cam for it to lock in place, and of course because of the bigger
diameter bar the prongs dont touch the round bit, glad you know what I
meant!

Jc.