Best Rear Track Hubs?



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On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 01:30:57 +0000, Robin Hubert wrote:

>
>> The bearings in a Phil Wood hub are replacable. They are not even all that expensive.
>
> $25 for a hub's worth of bearings insn't exactly inexpensive either.

Well, but you don't have to replace them very often. Also, IIRC the bearings were cheaper than that
on Phil Wood's website.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | It is a scientifically proven fact that a mid life crisis can _`\(,_ | only be cured by
something racy and Italian. Bianchis and (_)/ (_) | Colnagos are a lot cheaper than Maserattis
and Ferraris. -- Glenn Davies
 
> Sheldon Brown <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>A fixed/fixed Phil is only $9 more, might as well get the best. The ability to use two fixed
>>sprockets for different gears is a very nice feature.

David Damerell wrote:
> While you're in this thread; is there any good way to fit two or more fixed sprockets to the same
> side of a hub, short of opening up a freewheel and somehow jiggering the mechanism?
>
> I was thinking if one could get appropriate sprocket sizes and spacing this could be combined with
> two chainrings with a like size difference for a two-speed fixed that doesn't need flipped...

A definite maybe, in a roundabout gadget-geek way-

Sturmey-Archer splined drivers can accept two cogs if they are both larger than 15t and faced away
from each other.

(The gearbox is supplied with a cog and two spacers to allow chainline adjustment. The two spacers
together are the same width as one cog. All but the 13t and 14t are scalloped slightly, again
affording a chainline change)

I am not certain you can get a splined driver for an ASC fixed gear three speed ( mine came with a
threaded driver) but if that's possible ( I sincerely don't know and couldn't find out in a few
minutes' searching) you'd putatively have a pair of three speed fixed ranges available without
flipping the wheel.

OK, now back to reality.

The threading on fixed hubs is normally insufficient for two cogs while using the reverse thread
lockring. There are those people ( and you know who you are) who ride fixed without a lockring and
that avenue is always open, I suppose. You wouldn't have full thread engagement on the outer cog
anyway on most hubs.

And regarding flipping, I once thought I would want the option. After the first few weeks, I found
my soulmate perfect gear and neither need nor want to change now.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
[email protected] wrote:

> I need to purchase a new rear track/fixed hub for my bike (will be used on urban streets -- not on
> a velodrome). I am interested in people thoughts about various brands, is there a consensus "best
> of class"? Are there brands considered by many, that I should stay away from?
>
> Also, what does anybody know about the Chub Hub (www.chubhub.com), billed by the company as the
> "Ultimate Fixey Hub". Does anybody have one? Are they really the ultimate? How do they stand up
> over time regarding their wear and tear?
>
> I was planning to purchase a 32 hole chubhub but found out that the company is out of stock on
> that version and they only have 28 hole hubs in stock. I need a 32. Is it worth the wait? Or
> should I go with another brand?
>
> Finally, forgive my ignorance, but is it better to get a serviceable hub than to get one
> that isn't?

Any old freewheel hub will do fine. You can find them for real cheap, even built up as wheels for
less then the cost of a new hub. What attributes do you consider important? Price? Weight? Have you
had any problems with other hubs?

-Bruce
 
> > I need to purchase a new rear track/fixed hub for my bike (will be used on urban streets -- not
> > on a velodrome). I am interested in people thoughts about various brands, is there a consensus
> > "best of class"? Are there brands considered by many, that I should stay away from?
> >
> > Also, what does anybody know about the Chub Hub (www.chubhub.com), billed by the company as the
> > "Ultimate Fixey Hub". Does anybody have one? Are they really the ultimate? How do they stand up
> > over time regarding their wear and tear?
> >
> > I was planning to purchase a 32 hole chubhub but found out that the company is out of stock on
> > that version and they only have 28 hole hubs in stock. I need a 32. Is it worth the wait? Or
> > should I go with another brand?
> >
> > Finally, forgive my ignorance, but is it better to get a serviceable hub than to get one that
> > isn't?
>
> Any old freewheel hub will do fine. You can find them for real cheap,
even
> built up as wheels for less then the cost of a new hub. What attributes
do
> you consider important? Price? Weight? Have you had any problems with other hubs?
>
> -Bruce
>
Now you've done it! Opened the "lockring or no lockring" can of worms!

FWIW, I've done the old FW hub conversion a few times without incident. Longer axle, re-space, and
viola! instant fixed-gear hub.

The upside to this is that you can usually find quality FW hubs for dirt cheap. The downside is that
there's no place for a lockring if you really have to have one.

Mike
 
"Robin Hubert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> "Sheldon Brown" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Quoth Bryan Walton:
> >
> > > Hi Sheldon, Thanks for the reply. Sounds good. I think I will go with a Phil Wood. Also,
> > > thanks for the opinions regarding the chubhub. Now, next question: large vs. small flange?
> > > Does it really matter anymore?
> >
> > Large flange is prettier.
> >
>
> No-one should give a rat's ass about hub "beauty". FWIW, I think brunettes are more beautiful than
> redheads, but I wouldn't recommend one for that reason.
>
> Robin Hubert

Well, fiddle-dee-dee. I *like* pretty bike parts- it's what keeps me staring into display cases at
bike shops.

FWIW: I think Sheldon's point is that there's no functional difference between large-flange and
small-flange hubs, so the answer is "No, flange size doesn't matter."

I've got a set of high-flange Campy C-Record hubs on one of my recumbents (24 front, 32 rear). I
bought the hubs and built the wheels *specifically* because they're eye-catching, not for their
utility. The bike's fun to ride and just as much fun to stare at.

Jeff (was a redhead, now prematurely gray, with a beautiful blonde wife)
 
>>>>>Finally, forgive my ignorance, but is it better to get a serviceable hub than to get one that
>>>>>isn't?

>>>In article <[email protected]>, David L. Johnson wrote:
>>>>So, should you get a hub you can service, or one you have to throw away when the bearings wear
>>>>out? Is that really what you are asking?

>>On Tue, 28 Oct 2003 10:21:31 +0000, zxcvbn wrote:
>>>I am not sure what I really mean by servicable. In another reply to me, Peter recommended Phil
>>>Wood hubs. But as I understand it, Phil Wood hubs are "production sealed bearing bicycle hubs".
>>>Am I correct in thinking that this means I would not be able to replace the bearings in this hub?
>>>Or am I mistaken.

> "David L. Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>The bearings in a Phil Wood hub are replacable. They are not even all that expensive.

Robin Hubert wrote:
> $25 for a hub's worth of bearings insn't exactly inexpensive either.
> http://www.lickbike.com/i1797100.htm

OK, but they are standard so you can get as nice or as scummy a bearing as you wish/can stand.

Phil's nice $24.95/pr bearing price compares very favorably to a loose-ball hub's cones, cups and
balls at any similar quality level

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
Chub hub is the best.... search for it... i think it may be chubhub.com "Qui si parla Campagnolo"
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> zxc-<< In another reply to me, Peter recommended Phil Wood hubs. But as I understand it, Phil Wood
> hubs are "production sealed bearing bicycle hubs". Am I correct in thinking that this means I
> would not be able to replace the bearings in this hub? >><BR><BR>
>
> Phil can, but not really you, but I just built a wheelset with old, three
piece
> Phil hubs that were 27 years old, still very smooth...
>
> Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
> (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
 
In article <[email protected]>, Art Soodsamai wrote:

> Chub hub is the best.... search for it... i think it may be chubhub.com

Hi Art, interestingly that is what I ended up ordering. Sheldon Brown didn't give them a thumbs up
(and I initially went with his advice) but after consulting with others, I returned to my original
plans and ordered a chub hub. Joe Graney at Chub was very helpful and I think they are doing some
innovative stuff. Whether it is truly the "ultimate fixey hub", time will tell. But I am excited
about it and look forward to its arrival in the mail in a few days.

Thanks, Bryan
 
"Art Soodsamai" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Chub hub is the best.... search for it... i think it may be chubhub.com

Why do you say this, Art?

Chub's main claim to fame is the large diameter hub, which can transmit torque from the drive side
to the left side with less barrel windup.

So what. This is hardly a problem with other hubs.

--
Ted Bennett Portland OR
 
Zog The Undeniable wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>> I need to purchase a new rear track/fixed hub for my bike (will be used on urban streets -- not
>> on a velodrome). I am interested in people thoughts about various brands, is there a consensus
>> "best of class"?
>
> Try Goldtec - good price and nothing is better.

While we're on about Goldtec hubs....

Would there be any problem in running a Q/R skewer thru the axle instaed of using the allen key
bolts and washers provided?

--
Andy Morris

AndyAtJinkasDotFreeserve.Co.UK

Love this: Put an end to Outlook Express's messy quotes
http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/oe-quotefix/
 
> >> I need to purchase a new rear track/fixed hub for my bike (will be used on urban streets -- not
> >> on a velodrome). I am interested in people thoughts about various brands, is there a consensus
> >> "best of class"?
> >
> > Try Goldtec - good price and nothing is better.
>
> While we're on about Goldtec hubs....
>
> Would there be any problem in running a Q/R skewer thru the axle instaed
of
> using the allen key bolts and washers provided?
>

Not knowing the exact axle you're talking about, running a QR through the hub depends on whether the
ends of the axle stick out too far or not.

Most bolt-on wheels have too much axle outside the dropouts to run a QR.

Mike
>
> --
> Andy Morris
>
> AndyAtJinkasDotFreeserve.Co.UK
>
>
> Love this: Put an end to Outlook Express's messy quotes
> http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/oe-quotefix/
 
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