bike metal vs road salt & water



M

Michael

Guest
What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
bike? I give up.

This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous years I
hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was before
- and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious - so
there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies of
grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and lubed
the chain. It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to no
avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not noticable
before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.

It argues for walking. I could probably find my rubber boots again but, if not,
I could just wear one of the many pairs of old shoes that live here. Throwing
'em away when they're white with salt would be no-cost, which is certainly
cheaper than replacing bike parts.

(sigh)

---
Michael
 
On Nov 27, 9:50 am, Michael <[email protected]> wrote:
> What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
> bike? I give up.


Powdercoated aluminum frame with nickel plated chain and cluster.
Better yet: no cluster, just a single cog. Don't forget the full
coverage fenders.
 
"Michael" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water
> on a
> bike? I give up.
>
> This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous
> years I
> hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was
> before
> - and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious -
> so
> there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies
> of
> grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and
> lubed
> the chain. It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to
> no
> avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not
> noticable
> before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.
>
> It argues for walking. I could probably find my rubber boots again but,
> if not,
> I could just wear one of the many pairs of old shoes that live here.
> Throwing
> 'em away when they're white with salt would be no-cost, which is certainly
> cheaper than replacing bike parts.
>
> (sigh)
>
> ---
> Michael



It's a *****. I have a low end aluminum beater I use as winter bike. I
lock it up outside and never wash it.
 
I'm walking around in barefeet today butt the job market sucks, very
cumpetitive.
Silicone is water based, no?
Linseed oil is what to use on plated and bare metal surfaces: nuts,
shafts, bare wires.
Also used on say axle threads before threading axle nuts, dripping
between and over nut/washer/housing.
Seat post? linseed plus antiseize AL or CU.
Silicone grease exists at NAPA, Graingers, Hughes but I have zero
experience using it. One place maybe filling cable booties for a water
seal plus lube reservoir. depends on how cold it gets in your neck of
the woods and the silicones' composition
Chain oil? try Valvoline synthetic transmission oil, deodorized
somewhat so not objectionable like Kendall. decant into an empty
Finish Line Epic bottle.
Have two chains with hyperlinks, one clean. brush out cluster/CR or
use used upholstrey foam either dry if the lube is wet or wet with
thinner if the lube has washed out, the chain/CR/cluster dry.
The foam tears out as you drag it over the gear teeth - leaving a the
curve and sides clean for a shoeshine rag run thru.
 
After ruining fairly good bikes and messing with multiple gears,
grinding brakes, worn out rims, etc. I developed:


My winter bike recipe.

1. Buy a $10 coaster brake bike in your size.

2. Repack the coaster brake with low temperature synthetic grease.

3. Grease the chain with Castrol Motorcycle Chain lube, nasty stuff.

4. Spray everything else including the inside of fenders with
silicone spray lube.

5. Repeat as 3 and 4 as necessary.


In the spring give it a look over, if it looks OK, wash it, lube it, put
it away for next year. If it has almost rotted away, start looking for
next year's bike.



Marcus
 
On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 15:50:35 GMT, Michael <[email protected]> may have
said:

>What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
>bike? I give up.


Ride in Houston. Works for me, but YMMV.

An alternate approach: Park the good bike when the slush starts to
fall, and leave it parked until the road salt has washed away. Keep a
crapbike for winter use (a Goodwill mini-rehab or some such) that can
be discarded without regret when the salt eats too much of it away.

>This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous years I
>hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was before
>- and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious - so
>there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies of
>grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and lubed
>the chain. It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to no
>avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not noticable
>before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.


Yup. Swapping to a carbon frame merely reduces the number of targets,
it does not solve the problem. Riding a winter bike that you do not
care about is the only sanity-preserving technique I've seen that
works reliably and doesn't take a lot of extra effort.

>It argues for walking. I could probably find my rubber boots again but, if not,
>I could just wear one of the many pairs of old shoes that live here. Throwing
>'em away when they're white with salt would be no-cost, which is certainly
>cheaper than replacing bike parts.


The only caveat I will inject about the cheap-bike tactic is that it
does still eat cables; the one place that I'd splurge a bit would be
on a set of stainless wires and lined housings. Plastic thumb-lever
shifters have been reported to be less susceptible to freezing up than
some twist and trigger setups, which is good since that's what's on a
lot of older crapbikes. Of course, frozen ders can happen with any
level of kit...

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
> Michael <[email protected]> may have said:
>> What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
>> bike? I give up.


Werehatrack wrote:
> Ride in Houston. Works for me, but YMMV.
> An alternate approach: Park the good bike when the slush starts to
> fall, and leave it parked until the road salt has washed away. Keep a
> crapbike for winter use (a Goodwill mini-rehab or some such) that can
> be discarded without regret when the salt eats too much of it away.


> Michael <[email protected]> may have said:
>> This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous years I
>> hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was before
>> - and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious - so
>> there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies of
>> grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and lubed
>> the chain. It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to no
>> avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not noticable
>> before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.


Werehatrack wrote:
> Yup. Swapping to a carbon frame merely reduces the number of targets,
> it does not solve the problem. Riding a winter bike that you do not
> care about is the only sanity-preserving technique I've seen that
> works reliably and doesn't take a lot of extra effort.


> Michael <[email protected]> may have said:
>> It argues for walking. I could probably find my rubber boots again but, if not,
>> I could just wear one of the many pairs of old shoes that live here. Throwing
>> 'em away when they're white with salt would be no-cost, which is certainly
>> cheaper than replacing bike parts.


Werehatrack wrote:
> The only caveat I will inject about the cheap-bike tactic is that it
> does still eat cables; the one place that I'd splurge a bit would be
> on a set of stainless wires and lined housings. Plastic thumb-lever
> shifters have been reported to be less susceptible to freezing up than
> some twist and trigger setups, which is good since that's what's on a
> lot of older crapbikes. Of course, frozen ders can happen with any
> level of kit...


Werehatrack, you're singing my song. I built my sacrificial bike as a
fixie 12 years ago and only change (front) brake pads and chain
occasionally. Less bike means clean/repair less; ride more.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
http://www.icebike.org/ and http://www.bikewinter.org/ are good
references.
Icebike.org recommends using car (Turtle) wax on most of the bike, and
before your next ride use a whisk broom to brush off the dried dirt
and snow.

On Nov 27, 9:50 am, Michael <[email protected]> wrote:
> What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
> bike? I give up.
>
> This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous years I
> hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was before
> - and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious - so
> there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies of
> grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and lubed
> the chain. It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to no
> avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not noticable
> before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.
>
> It argues for walking. I could probably find my rubber boots again but, if not,
> I could just wear one of the many pairs of old shoes that live here. Throwing
> 'em away when they're white with salt would be no-cost, which is certainly
> cheaper than replacing bike parts.
>
> (sigh)
>
> ---
> Michael
 
On Nov 27, 4:16 pm, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> http://www.icebike.org/andhttp://www.bikewinter.org/are good
> references.
> Icebike.org recommends using car (Turtle) wax on most of the bike, and
> before your next ride use a whisk broom to brush off the dried dirt
> and snow.
>
> On Nov 27, 9:50 am, Michael <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
> > bike? I give up.

>
> > This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous years I
> > hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was before
> > - and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious - so
> > there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies of
> > grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and lubed
> > the chain. It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to no
> > avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not noticable
> > before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.

>
> > It argues for walking. I could probably find my rubber boots again but, if not,
> > I could just wear one of the many pairs of old shoes that live here. Throwing
> > 'em away when they're white with salt would be no-cost, which is certainly
> > cheaper than replacing bike parts.

>
> > (sigh)

>
> > ---
> > Michael- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -


ahh yes WAX! silicone is water soluble. SILICONE IS WHAT? water
soluble water soluble.
lube the deray with Valvo synthetic trans oil then clean body with
thinner/CHOH, cover with shingled electrical tape. Give the cover some
inboard lap for tire fallout.
You guys are incroyable giving up riding a finely tuned winter bike
with the latest from Finland for a piece of junk ride even a vagrant
wouldn't stand near.
unreal.
 
On Nov 27, 5:43 pm, datakoll <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Nov 27, 4:16 pm, "[email protected]"
>
>
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >http://www.icebike.org/andhttp://www.bikewinter.org/aregood
> > references.
> > Icebike.org recommends using car (Turtle) wax on most of the bike, and
> > before your next ride use a whisk broom to brush off the dried dirt
> > and snow.

>
> > On Nov 27, 9:50 am, Michael <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> > > What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
> > > bike? I give up.

>
> > > This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous years I
> > > hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was before
> > > - and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious - so
> > > there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies of
> > > grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and lubed
> > > the chain. It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to no
> > > avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not noticable
> > > before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.

>
> > > It argues for walking. I could probably find my rubber boots again but, if not,
> > > I could just wear one of the many pairs of old shoes that live here. Throwing
> > > 'em away when they're white with salt would be no-cost, which is certainly
> > > cheaper than replacing bike parts.

>
> > > (sigh)

>
> > > ---
> > > Michael- Hide quoted text -

>
> > - Show quoted text -

>
> ahh yes WAX! silicone is water soluble. SILICONE IS WHAT? water
> soluble water soluble.
> lube the deray with Valvo synthetic trans oil then clean body with
> thinner/CHOH, cover with shingled electrical tape. Give the cover some
> inboard lap for tire fallout.
> You guys are incroyable giving up riding a finely tuned winter bike
> with the latest from Finland for a piece of junk ride even a vagrant
> wouldn't stand near.
> unreal.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


I mean like its enough to make you sick
seriously
 
On Nov 27, 5:59 pm, datakoll <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Nov 27, 5:43 pm, datakoll <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Nov 27, 4:16 pm, "[email protected]"

>
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >http://www.icebike.org/andhttp://www.bikewinter.org/aregood
> > > references.
> > > Icebike.org recommends using car (Turtle) wax on most of the bike, and
> > > before your next ride use a whisk broom to brush off the dried dirt
> > > and snow.

>
> > > On Nov 27, 9:50 am, Michael <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> > > > What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
> > > > bike? I give up.

>
> > > > This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous years I
> > > > hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was before
> > > > - and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious - so
> > > > there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies of
> > > > grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and lubed
> > > > the chain. It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to no
> > > > avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not noticable
> > > > before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.

>
> > > > It argues for walking. I could probably find my rubber boots again but, if not,
> > > > I could just wear one of the many pairs of old shoes that live here. Throwing
> > > > 'em away when they're white with salt would be no-cost, which is certainly
> > > > cheaper than replacing bike parts.

>
> > > > (sigh)

>
> > > > ---
> > > > Michael- Hide quoted text -

>
> > > - Show quoted text -

>
> > ahh yes WAX! silicone is water soluble. SILICONE IS WHAT? water
> > soluble water soluble.
> > lube the deray with Valvo synthetic trans oil then clean body with
> > thinner/CHOH, cover with shingled electrical tape. Give the cover some
> > inboard lap for tire fallout.
> > You guys are incroyable giving up riding a finely tuned winter bike
> > with the latest from Finland for a piece of junk ride even a vagrant
> > wouldn't stand near.
> > unreal.- Hide quoted text -

>
> > - Show quoted text -

>
> I mean like its enough to make you sick
> seriously- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Incroyable
 
"Michael" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water
> on a
> bike? I give up.
>
> This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous
> years I
> hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was
> before
> - and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious -
> so
> there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies
> of
> grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and
> lubed
> the chain. It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to
> no
> avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not
> noticable
> before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.
>
> It argues for walking. I could probably find my rubber boots again but,
> if not,
> I could just wear one of the many pairs of old shoes that live here.
> Throwing
> 'em away when they're white with salt would be no-cost, which is certainly
> cheaper than replacing bike parts.
>
> (sigh)
>
> ---
> Michael
>

Don't walk. Don't let winter defeat you.

I commute 17 miles daily, each and every day, all year round in Chicago.

I bring the bike inside at work, to my bike repair storeroom. I use a little
Simple Green, and then Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/teflon-plus-lube.htm .

I do think I am on a different wavelength from other Usenet bike regulars.
They ALL know more about bikes than I know.

But I can tell you, I do not have the rust problem you describe.

J.
 
In article
<[email protected]
groups.com>,
landotter <[email protected]> wrote:

> On Nov 27, 9:50 am, Michael <[email protected]> wrote:
> > What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
> > bike? I give up.

>
> Powdercoated aluminum frame with nickel plated chain and cluster.
> Better yet: no cluster, just a single cog. Don't forget the full
> coverage fenders.


Once somebody recommended leaving the bicycle in the
cold, because the warmer temperatures only encourage
corrosion; and the water migrates then refreezes. This
makes sense to me. If temperatures remain below
freezing, ice on the bicycle will sublimate away.

When I lived in freezing winter cities I kept a Raleigh
three speed outside. Maintenance was a drop of oil on
the chain every couple months, whether it needed it or not.

--
Michael Press
 
On Nov 27, 8:28 pm, "Jay" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Michael" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water
> > on a
> > bike? I give up.

>
> > This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous
> > years I
> > hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was
> > before
> > - and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious -
> > so
> > there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies
> > of
> > grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and
> > lubed
> > the chain. It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to
> > no
> > avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not
> > noticable
> > before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.

>
> > It argues for walking. I could probably find my rubber boots again but,
> > if not,
> > I could just wear one of the many pairs of old shoes that live here.
> > Throwing
> > 'em away when they're white with salt would be no-cost, which is certainly
> > cheaper than replacing bike parts.

>
> > (sigh)

>
> > ---
> > Michael

>
> Don't walk. Don't let winter defeat you.
>
> I commute 17 miles daily, each and every day, all year round in Chicago.
>
> I bring the bike inside at work, to my bike repair storeroom. I use a little
> Simple Green, and then Finish Line Dry Teflon Lubehttp://www.finishlineusa.com/products/teflon-plus-lube.htm.
>
> I do think I am on a different wavelength from other Usenet bike regulars.
> They ALL know more about bikes than I know.
>
> But I can tell you, I do not have the rust problem you describe.
>
> J.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


an interesting combination Green + FL T/Wax.
does it give a finish coat you add a layer to every cleaning?
 
Michael wrote:
> What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
> bike? I give up.
>
> This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous years I
> hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was before
> - and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious - so
> there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies of
> grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and lubed
> the chain.


Every day?

It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to no
> avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not noticable
> before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.
>
> It argues for walking.


Consider a "beater" bike. Believe it or not, bikes will go for weeks
with this sort of crud, and with no cleaning -- and with no damage as
long as you don't care about finish or polish.

I got my snow bike out a week or so ago. Pumped up the tires, lubed the
very rusty chain, and rode to work. No problem.

--

David L. Johnson

Deserves death! I daresay he does. Many that live deserve death.
And some that die deserve life. Can you give it to them? Then do not
be too eager to deal out death in judgement.
-- J. R. R. Tolkein
 
datakoll aka gene daniels wrote:
> ...
> You guys are incroyable giving up riding a finely tuned winter bike
> with the latest from Finland for a piece of junk ride even a vagrant
> wouldn't stand near.
> unreal....


Agreed. Here is what I should get for winter riding:
<http://www.optima-cycles.nl/main/en/modellen/5.html?Itemid=27>.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
"Localized intense suction such as tornadoes is created when temperature
differences are high enough between meeting air masses, and can impart
excessive energy onto a cyclist." - Randy Schlitter
 
On Nov 27, 9:00 pm, "David L. Johnson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Michael wrote:
> > What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
> > bike? I give up.

>
> > This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous years I
> > hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was before
> > - and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious - so
> > there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies of
> > grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and lubed
> > the chain.

>
> Every day?
>
> It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to no
>
> > avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not noticable
> > before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.

>
> > It argues for walking.

>
> Consider a "beater" bike. Believe it or not, bikes will go for weeks
> with this sort of crud, and with no cleaning -- and with no damage as
> long as you don't care about finish or polish.
>
> I got my snow bike out a week or so ago. Pumped up the tires, lubed the
> very rusty chain, and rode to work. No problem.
>
> --
>
> David L. Johnson
>
> Deserves death! I daresay he does. Many that live deserve death.
> And some that die deserve life. Can you give it to them? Then do not
> be too eager to deal out death in judgement.
> -- J. R. R. Tolkein


do the Finns cry out in pain?
 
datakoll wrote:
> On Nov 27, 5:59 pm, datakoll <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Nov 27, 5:43 pm, datakoll <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Nov 27, 4:16 pm, "[email protected]"
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> http://www.icebike.org/andhttp://www.bikewinter.org/aregood
>>>> references.
>>>> Icebike.org recommends using car (Turtle) wax on most of the bike, and
>>>> before your next ride use a whisk broom to brush off the dried dirt
>>>> and snow.
>>>> On Nov 27, 9:50 am, Michael <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
>>>>> bike? I give up.
>>>>> This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous years I
>>>>> hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was before
>>>>> - and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious - so
>>>>> there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies of
>>>>> grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and lubed
>>>>> the chain. It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to no
>>>>> avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not noticable
>>>>> before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.
>>>>> It argues for walking. I could probably find my rubber boots again but, if not,
>>>>> I could just wear one of the many pairs of old shoes that live here. Throwing
>>>>> 'em away when they're white with salt would be no-cost, which is certainly
>>>>> cheaper than replacing bike parts.
>>>>> (sigh)
>>>>> ---
>>>>> Michael- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> ahh yes WAX! silicone is water soluble. SILICONE IS WHAT? water
>>> soluble water soluble.
>>> lube the deray with Valvo synthetic trans oil then clean body with
>>> thinner/CHOH, cover with shingled electrical tape. Give the cover some
>>> inboard lap for tire fallout.
>>> You guys are incroyable giving up riding a finely tuned winter bike
>>> with the latest from Finland for a piece of junk ride even a vagrant
>>> wouldn't stand near.
>>> unreal.- Hide quoted text -
>>> - Show quoted text -

>> I mean like its enough to make you sick
>> seriously- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -

>
> Incroyable


May Wii
I once saw snow on the oranges.
 
On Nov 27, 10:03 pm, Marcus Coles <[email protected]> wrote:
> datakoll wrote:
> > On Nov 27, 5:59 pm, datakoll <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> On Nov 27, 5:43 pm, datakoll <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> >>> On Nov 27, 4:16 pm, "[email protected]"
> >>> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>>http://www.icebike.org/andhttp://www.bikewinter.org/aregood
> >>>> references.
> >>>> Icebike.org recommends using car (Turtle) wax on most of the bike, and
> >>>> before your next ride use a whisk broom to brush off the dried dirt
> >>>> and snow.
> >>>> On Nov 27, 9:50 am, Michael <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>>> What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and water on a
> >>>>> bike? I give up.
> >>>>> This will be the fourth snow season I've ridden through. In previous years I
> >>>>> hosed off the salt every day. That left the bike even wetter than it was before
> >>>>> - and could have forced water into bearings areas if I weren't cautious - so
> >>>>> there was much more to be wiped dry. I then cleaned all toothed thingies of
> >>>>> grit and glop. Then I sprayed silicone. Indoors (finally!) I cleaned and lubed
> >>>>> the chain. It takes forever, every day that roads are messy, and all to no
> >>>>> avail. Chain and rear cogs rust beyond all reason. Paint chips, not noticable
> >>>>> before, turn brown and stand out against banana-yellow paint.
> >>>>> It argues for walking. I could probably find my rubber boots again but, if not,
> >>>>> I could just wear one of the many pairs of old shoes that live here. Throwing
> >>>>> 'em away when they're white with salt would be no-cost, which is certainly
> >>>>> cheaper than replacing bike parts.
> >>>>> (sigh)
> >>>>> ---
> >>>>> Michael- Hide quoted text -
> >>>> - Show quoted text -
> >>> ahh yes WAX! silicone is water soluble. SILICONE IS WHAT? water
> >>> soluble water soluble.
> >>> lube the deray with Valvo synthetic trans oil then clean body with
> >>> thinner/CHOH, cover with shingled electrical tape. Give the cover some
> >>> inboard lap for tire fallout.
> >>> You guys are incroyable giving up riding a finely tuned winter bike
> >>> with the latest from Finland for a piece of junk ride even a vagrant
> >>> wouldn't stand near.
> >>> unreal.- Hide quoted text -
> >>> - Show quoted text -
> >> I mean like its enough to make you sick
> >> seriously- Hide quoted text -

>
> >> - Show quoted text -

>
> > Incroyable

>
> May Wii
> I once saw snow on the oranges.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


I weep for our unborn children
 
Michael Press wrote:
> In article
> <[email protected]
> groups.com>,
> landotter <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Nov 27, 9:50 am, Michael <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> What is the secret to preventing the awful action of road salt and
>>> water on a bike? I give up.

>>
>> Powdercoated aluminum frame with nickel plated chain and cluster.
>> Better yet: no cluster, just a single cog. Don't forget the full
>> coverage fenders.

>
> Once somebody recommended leaving the bicycle in the
> cold, because the warmer temperatures only encourage
> corrosion; and the water migrates then refreezes. This
> makes sense to me. If temperatures remain below
> freezing, ice on the bicycle will sublimate away.
>
> When I lived in freezing winter cities I kept a Raleigh
> three speed outside. Maintenance was a drop of oil on
> the chain every couple months, whether it needed it or not.


If the bike is put in a really warm and dry environment then any water will
evapourate quickly. Salt doesn't do any harm if it's dry.

I have never had serious trouble with corrosion with any bike I've owned,
despite riding them in bad conditions and enduring long lazy periods when I
did very little cleaning and maintenance. The "secret" is that I always
store bikes inside the house.

~PB