One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away.
I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away.
Quoted message said:
I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
Don't unspoke the wheel! The spokes have been formed to their current position and have shapes that are not easily identifiable when removed from the wheel. Lay the new rim on the old one (aligning the valve holes) and transfer the spokes one-at-a-time. Used spokes removed from a wheel usually cause spoke failures because acute angle spokes (outbound) do not straighten when placed as inbound spokes and thereby flex at the elbow.
One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away.
Quoted message said:
I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
Don't unspoke the wheel! The spokes have been formed to their current position and have shapes that are not easily identifiable when removed from the wheel. Lay the new rim on the old one (aligning the valve holes) and transfer the spokes one-at-a-time. Used spokes removed from a wheel usually cause spoke failures because acute angle spokes (outbound) do not straighten when placed as inbound spokes and thereby flex at the elbow.
One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away. I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
Don't unspoke the wheel! The spokes have been formed to their current position and have shapes that are not easily identifiable when removed from the wheel. Lay the new rim on the old one (aligning the valve holes) and transfer the spokes one-at-a-time. Used spokes removed from a wheel usually cause spoke failures because acute angle spokes (outbound) do not straighten when placed as inbound spokes and thereby flex at the elbow.
Jobst Brandt- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Rim-Swapping is a great place to start to learn full wheel building. None of the lacing to learn - just the true/round steps. Tape the new rim to the old rim in 4 places and you're good to go. You can do it while watching TV.
One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away.
I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
Any way you could post pics? I'm interested in the spoke hole cracking pattern.
I agree with the others, swapping in a new rim takes only an hour or so, inclding tensioning/stress relieving.
One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away. I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
Don't unspoke the wheel! The spokes have been formed to their current position and have shapes that are not easily identifiable when removed from the wheel. Lay the new rim on the old one (aligning the valve holes) and transfer the spokes one-at-a-time. Used spokes removed from a wheel usually cause spoke failures because acute angle spokes (outbound) do not straighten when placed as inbound spokes and thereby flex at the elbow.
Jobst Brandt- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
I haven't started the rim replacement yet. The new Open Pro rim is at my parent's house and my Mom is not visiting until next weekend, so I won't have the rim until then. I have built a few wheels from scratch by following your book. But what you say about keeping the spokes in the same spot makes sense so I will tape the new rim to the old rim and transfer spokes one by one.
But why did the non drive side eyelets develop the cracks and not the drive side eyelets? The non drive side spokes don't have any pressure on the rim/eyelets compared to the drive side.
One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away.
Quoted message said:
I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
Any way you could post pics? I'm interested in the spoke hole cracking pattern.
I will try but it will be Saturday at the earliest. A friend with a digital camera (I'll tell him to bring it) should be on the ride Saturday and I can have him take the pictures of the rim. And then I'll send them to Carl for posting. Wheel is still rideable. Just needs to be trued fairly often.
Quoted message said:
I agree with the others, swapping in a new rim takes only an hour or so, inclding tensioning/stress relieving.- Hide quoted text -
One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away.
I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
Your post made me hustle out to the garage and check my Mavic Open Pro / DT Swiss / Campy Record (2005 vintage) wheel. The current silver rim was bought to replace a blue anodized Open Pro rim that cracked at an eyelet. It has ten visible cracked eyelets (I didn't lift up the stickers), and they are all on the drive side.
One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away. I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Don't unspoke the wheel! The spokes have been formed to their current position and have shapes that are not easily identifiable when removed from the wheel. Lay the new rim on the old one (aligning the valve holes) and transfer the spokes one-at-a-time. Used spokes removed from a wheel usually cause spoke failures because acute angle spokes (outbound) do not straighten when placed as inbound spokes and thereby flex at the elbow.
Quoted message said:
I haven't started the rim replacement yet. The new Open Pro rim is at my parent's house and my Mom is not visiting until next weekend, so I won't have the rim until then. I have built a few wheels from scratch by following your book. But what you say about keeping the spokes in the same spot makes sense so I will tape the new rim to the old rim and transfer spokes one by one.
And remember to put a drop of oil on each nipple/eyelet interface after all the spokes have been transferred. The failure to do this has brought us ungainly spoke wrenches that capture spoke nipples at their four corners like slotted socket wrenches. A flat and parallel jaw wrench can twist off any spoke you have without rounding spoke nipples, but that seems not to be obvious.
Quoted message said:
But why did the non drive side eyelets develop the cracks and not the drive side eyelets? The non drive side spokes don't have any pressure on the rim/eyelets compared to the drive side.
I didn't see the dish on this wheel or the lacing pattern... or the cracking mode, as someone mentioned. These rims are near enough to cracking to respond to small differences.
One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away. I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
<snipped>
Quoted message said:
But why did the non drive side eyelets develop the cracks and not the drive side eyelets? The non drive side spokes don't have any pressure on the rim/eyelets compared to the drive side.
Did you build the now failed wheel yourself, or did you have it built on your used hub? Was the rim a known new, never laced/tensioned rim at the time ot the build?
> One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around > eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 > cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with > new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. > Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks > are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive > side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side > eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the > eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around > that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that > 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away. > I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already > own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since > they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And > have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
<snipped>
Quoted message said:
But why did the non drive side eyelets develop the cracks and not the drive side eyelets? The non drive side spokes don't have any pressure on the rim/eyelets compared to the drive side.
Did you build the now failed wheel yourself, or did you have it built on your used hub? Was the rim a known new, never laced/tensioned rim at the time ot the build?
good questions. to the o.p., the single best course of action you can follow in this rebuild is use of a tensiometer. excess tension kills rims, as you've just discovered. google this group for the tension required for your rim.
I will try but it will be Saturday at the earliest. A friend with a digital camera (I'll tell him to bring it) should be on the ride Saturday and I can have him take the pictures of the rim. And then I'll send them to Carl for posting. Wheel is still rideable. Just needs to be trued fairly often.
Dear Russell,
Feel free to email me.
Or just post photos at the free no-registration www.tinypic.com and paste the links into a post, which is all that I do.
>> One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around >> eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 >> cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with >> new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. >> Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks >> are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive >> side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side >> eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the >> eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around >> that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that >> 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away. >> I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already >> own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since >> they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And >> have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
<snipped>
Quoted message said:
But why did the non drive side eyelets develop the cracks and not the drive side eyelets? The non drive side spokes don't have any pressure on the rim/eyelets compared to the drive side.
Did you build the now failed wheel yourself, or did you have it built on your used hub? Was the rim a known new, never laced/tensioned rim at the time ot the build?
good questions. to the o.p., the single best course of action you can follow in this rebuild is use of a tensiometer. excess tension kills rims, as you've just discovered.
What a howler - the o.p. said it was the _non-drive_ set of eyelets that failed - the ones with *less* tension.
Perhaps you'll be following this advice now:
"2. be responsible for your own mistakes and/or misunderstandings"
On Oct 17, 5:58 pm, "[email hidden]" <[email hidden]> wrote:
>>> One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around >>> eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 >>> cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with >>> new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. >>> Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks >>> are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive >>> side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side >>> eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the >>> eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around >>> that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that >>> 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away. >>> I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already >>> own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since >>> they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And >>> have lasted thousands and thousands of miles. <snipped>
> But why did the non drive side eyelets develop the cracks and not the > drive side eyelets? The non drive side spokes don't have any pressure > on the rim/eyelets compared to the drive side. Did you build the now failed wheel yourself, or did you have it built on your used hub? Was the rim a known new, never laced/tensioned rim at the time ot the build?
good questions. to the o.p., the single best course of action you can follow in this rebuild is use of a tensiometer. excess tension kills rims, as you've just discovered.
What a howler - the o.p. said it was the _non-drive_ set of eyelets that failed - the ones with *less* tension.
Perhaps you'll be following this advice now:
"2. be responsible for your own mistakes and/or misunderstandings"
do you believe in the tooth fairy too? with all due respect to the o.p., there are only two possibilities here:
1. he's mistaken 2. a rim that was previously cracked drive side was swapped out.
either way, he needs a rebuild, and he needs to tension correctly. see, that wasn't so hard, was it?
> One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around > eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 > cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with > new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. > Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks > are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive > side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side > eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the > eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around > that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that > 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away. > I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already > own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since > they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And > have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
<snipped>
Quoted message said:
But why did the non drive side eyelets develop the cracks and not the drive side eyelets? The non drive side spokes don't have any pressure on the rim/eyelets compared to the drive side.
Did you build the now failed wheel yourself, or did you have it built on your used hub? Was the rim a known new, never laced/tensioned rim at the time ot the build?- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Non drive side spokes are pulling out the eyelets. All cracks are on the non drive side. No cracks on the drive side that I could see. 32 spoke silver Open Pro rim. 700C. 1998 Campagnolo Chorus hub. This is about the third rim on that hub. First Open Pro broke in a crash in 2001. Then I put on a rim that turned out to have a dent in it. Also Open Pro. Then it was probably Fall of 2002, not Fall 2001 as I stated earlier, that I put the current, now cracked Open Pro rim on. Rim bought from Performance Bike. Brand new, never used, never laced rim of course. Came wrapped in plastic from Performance. I ordered one new rim, but Performance in their kindness sent two for the price of one. Thus I have an extra waiting in the wings. This rim has not been switched around on the hub to move the drive side to the non drive side. I don't have much to do in my life, but I got enough to do not to reverse rims for the heck of it. 3 cross lacing both sides. Brass nipples both sides. DT 14/15 gauge spokes. Have not broken any spokes since building the wheel. Pretty sure they were new spokes in 2002 when this rim was installed. Hub has always been 3 cross lacing with all rims. Wheel built by me. Using my Spokey spoke wrench that grabs all four corners of the brass nipples like a socket wrench. I know Mr. Brandt does not like these, but I do. At the time of building I am sure I used oil on the nipples. No thread locking compound. Many thousands of miles on the wheels. I range between 160-195 pounds body weight plus another 20-30 pounds for the bike and gear and water. Midwest riding mainly. Roads are usually OK.
> One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around > eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 > cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 > with new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring > 2001. Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the > cracks are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non > drive side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non > drive side eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One > of the eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim > around that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would > expect that 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away. > I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already > own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes > since they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without > breaking. And have lasted thousands and thousands of miles. Don't unspoke the wheel! The spokes have been formed to their current position and have shapes that are not easily identifiable when removed from the wheel. Lay the new rim on the old one (aligning the valve holes) and transfer the spokes one-at-a-time. Used spokes removed from a wheel usually cause spoke failures because acute angle spokes (outbound) do not straighten when placed as inbound spokes and thereby flex at the elbow.
I haven't started the rim replacement yet. The new Open Pro rim is at my parent's house and my Mom is not visiting until next weekend, so I won't have the rim until then. I have built a few wheels from scratch by following your book. But what you say about keeping the spokes in the same spot makes sense so I will tape the new rim to the old rim and transfer spokes one by one.
And remember to put a drop of oil on each nipple/eyelet interface after all the spokes have been transferred. The failure to do this has brought us ungainly spoke wrenches that capture spoke nipples at their four corners like slotted socket wrenches. A flat and parallel jaw wrench can twist off any spoke you have without rounding spoke nipples, but that seems not to be obvious.
Quoted message said:
But why did the non drive side eyelets develop the cracks and not the drive side eyelets? The non drive side spokes don't have any pressure on the rim/eyelets compared to the drive side.
I didn't see the dish on this wheel or the lacing pattern... or the cracking mode, as someone mentioned. These rims are near enough to cracking to respond to small differences.
Jobst Brandt- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
See the post below where I describe the details of this wheel. 1998 Campagnolo Chorus rear hub is almost straight up and down on the drive side for dish. So the non drive side spokes are generally pretty loose and the drive side are really tight. 32 spoke. Brass nipples. 3 cross both sides. DT 14/15 gauge spokes.
>>>> Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks >>>> are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive >>>> side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side >>>> eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the >>>> eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around >>>> that eyelet also have cracks in it.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> >> But why did the non drive side eyelets develop the cracks and not the >> drive side eyelets? The non drive side spokes don't have any pressure >> on the rim/eyelets compared to the drive side.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> good questions. to the o.p., the single best course of action you can follow in this rebuild is use of a tensiometer. excess tension kills rims, as you've just discovered.
What a howler - the o.p. said it was the _non-drive_ set of eyelets that failed - the ones with *less* tension.
Perhaps you'll be following this advice now:
"2. be responsible for your own mistakes and/or misunderstandings"
do you believe in the tooth fairy too? with all due respect to the o.p., there are only two possibilities here:
>> One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around >> eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 >> cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with >> new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. >> Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks >> are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive >> side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side >> eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the >> eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around >> that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect that >> 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away. >> I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already >> own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since >> they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And >> have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.
<snipped>
Quoted message said:
But why did the non drive side eyelets develop the cracks and not the drive side eyelets? The non drive side spokes don't have any pressure on the rim/eyelets compared to the drive side.
Did you build the now failed wheel yourself, or did you have it built on your used hub? Was the rim a known new, never laced/tensioned rim at the time ot the build?- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Non drive side spokes are pulling out the eyelets. All cracks are on the non drive side. No cracks on the drive side that I could see. 32 spoke silver Open Pro rim. 700C. 1998 Campagnolo Chorus hub. This is about the third rim on that hub. First Open Pro broke in a crash in 2001. Then I put on a rim that turned out to have a dent in it. Also Open Pro. Then it was probably Fall of 2002, not Fall 2001 as I stated earlier, that I put the current, now cracked Open Pro rim on. Rim bought from Performance Bike. Brand new, never used, never laced rim of course. Came wrapped in plastic from Performance. I ordered one new rim, but Performance in their kindness sent two for the price of one. Thus I have an extra waiting in the wings. This rim has not been switched around on the hub to move the drive side to the non drive side. I don't have much to do in my life, but I got enough to do not to reverse rims for the heck of it. 3 cross lacing both sides. Brass nipples both sides. DT 14/15 gauge spokes. Have not broken any spokes since building the wheel. Pretty sure they were new spokes in 2002 when this rim was installed. Hub has always been 3 cross lacing with all rims. Wheel built by me. Using my Spokey spoke wrench that grabs all four corners of the brass nipples like a socket wrench. I know Mr. Brandt does not like these, but I do. At the time of building I am sure I used oil on the nipples. No thread locking compound. Many thousands of miles on the wheels. I range between 160-195 pounds body weight plus another 20-30 pounds for the bike and gear and water. Midwest riding mainly. Roads are usually OK.
that makes no sense. wood cracks when over-stressed, not when it's relaxed. that's the same situation with your rim - it cracks when over-tensioned. the non-drive side is at about half the tension of the drive side - there's no mechanical mechanism that can cause the failure you describe [unless there's some weird lateral loading thing going on which you're not revealing].
